JustinOlson

Very Nice! I've read the T56 weighs ~128 - 140lbs. I'll be interested in seeing you weigh it. Regards, Justin

WOWZA, that is such a killer setup. Best L series turbo motor I've ever seen! Do you still have the hasteloy divided turbine housing valve? Justin

My girlfriend actually is ok with my car habits. She'd rather me spend money on cars then on drinking at the bars. What she gets on me most is online forums and crap like that. I can honestly say I spend way too much time on forums. Justin

Whats interesting to me is if indeed the LT1 weighs within 5lbs of the ls1 shortblock, there is a huge difference between the LQ9 and the LT1. The LQ9 block is stated as weighing 183lbs, and the LS1 at 91lbs. I just found this link stating the following: LT1 block 107lbs If this is true then the difference in the blocks themselves are 16 lbs. I could imagine the beefier crank of the ls1 making up some of the difference between Ron Tylers measurements. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=539196&highlight=ls2+block+weighs

Found this article claiming a 55 lbs total difference between a the LT1 and a LS1. http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3165/is_n1_v33/ai_19053775 Regards, Justin

So this is a LT1 block verses a LS1 aluminum block? I would like to see these test redone with a little more accurate method of taking the weight. 2 bathroom scales leaves something to be desired. Definitely a interesting test tho! Regards, Justin

Why go into further debt when you are already a poor college student? Justin

I'm converting over to 5 lug to open up my choices. I'm looking at the following: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/enkei/rpf1.htm or MB weapon http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findWheelByBrandDetail.do;jsessionid=FBJFDV4Sb92L1 c1T2y6DhW58Ym2wx918fsvzJCrgwLD4yxYQ84kT!-421345007!NONE?rc=ORPINT&wd=17&pc=53638&typ=&rcc=n ull&rw=9&bp=5-114.3

So for a daily driver what seats do you guys like? I would think some kind of reclining recaro would be really nice. Justin

Saw this one on craigs list. I will check it out if someone outside of the area is intersted. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/226282850.html Regards, Justin

What tires do you run on them? Do you know the backspacing of the wheels? Justin

What is the store on the wheel width and tire you run? Looks amazing! Those front tires are so wide. I love how they look! Justin

I'm not sure. I'm not related to the project in any way. Just reposting what I've seen on the net. Regards, Justin

"Here are some pics of my "R14" which i am debuting at SEMA. It will be next month's Modified Magazine cover car so keep an eye out. I have always wanted a GTR. After spending the last 4 years building every car under the sun (MR2, Supra, Evo, NSX, S2000, M3, 240, eclipse, etc etc) all i wanted is AWD and a supra engine, in a sub-3000lb car, and LHD (i dont know how all you guys get used to RHD). So we took my S14, an R32 GTR front clip, Full-Race's 6 engineers, and 8 months and we finished my new daily driver. AWD, LHD 240sx easy to register/insure, LHD, and its GTR everywhere it counts. The engine is currently stock, but right after SEMA we have a built motor with a gorgeous hypertuner billet aluminum intake manifold to drop in place. The setup currently is: Stock RB26DET motor + ITB, tomei cams, full-race gt42R twinscroll (more of a drag race turbo for the show/magazine, will be replaced by a 40R), dual wg turbo kit, 4" dp&exh, 4.5" thick intercooler with only 2 feet of charge piping, fully adjustable tq split (ATTESSA deleted), HICAS eliminated, custom KONI coilover suspension, PowerFC, RC 1000cc injectors, Dual intank walbro fuel pumps, and a few other things im forgetting. going to keep the motor 100% stock, push it until it cracks a piston, then build it. I figure ill have some fun before i tear it apart I have seen manny cruz do insane stuff on a 100% stock RB, so i really want to find out for myself what a stock RB26 can handle my favorite shot: me driving: engine w/ gt42R: thought you guys would be interested!" http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?p=1343790

What you have to remember is a straight 6, will generally have its mass center further forward then a v8 and 4 cylinder. I'd either go to a all aluminum v8 or I4 (sr20, f20c, ls1, 1uz...ect) Regards, Justin

www.projectR14.com Awesome!!!

I agree as well that Quaifes are were its at. They dont spin one tire. I've built a few 450+whp/450+wtq FWD GTI VR6 turbos. They had quaife differentials and wouldn't light up 1 tire. If you nailed it in 3rd on the freeway it would light up both tires, but you can't blame the differential for that. They are excellent choices for street and drag racing. Look at the Sport FWD class. You have FWD hondas with quaifes running 9.4 @ 160+mph. Crazy fast! Justin

Has anyone thought of incorporating the C pillars into the hatch like the 350z? I think that would make the rear look a lot more modern.

I wonder how long a R200 with Quaife would last behind a turbo LS1 with t56. It been proven they last behind automatic transmission drag cars, but who is going fast with a manual and not breaking the R200? Anyone in the mid/low tens with a manual? Justin

Reminds me of a Viper roof. Very cool !!!

It looks that the price on the R230 quaifes is very good right now. This is the only supplier in the US that sells them $1450: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Nissan/300ZX/Quaife/Drivetrain/Differentials/part/A.T.B http://www.quaifeamerica.com/differentials/diff_apps.htm

The quaifed R200 should hold all the power you can throw at it. The R230 VLSD would be ok for a straight line car, but would suffer for a car that is used for road racing purposes. Do the R200 with a quaife and CV's. Thats would be the best all around setup IMO. If you could do a R230 with a quaife, that would be even better for a bomb proof setup. The problem is the diff is substainally more expensive from quaife for the R230. Regards, Justin

Also, I'd like to know the weight of the two diffs?

The main point is to avoid all of the headaches by using the 1jz head. -machine cams to fit -modify full-race inlet manifold to fit -tip valves 1mm Also, the reason to go to the shorter stroke is to lower piston speeds to reliable rev over 10k. You are looking at a lighter, shorter rod with the 1JZ lower end. I end up with a better rod/stroke ratio. I dont really care if it doesn't make as much power as a 2jz. I'm just building sometime ORIGINAL, that will make killer power and be reliable. Regards, Justin

You can put a standard T56 behind it. They make killer power!!! http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4581016#post4581016