kj280z

Looking for 280zxt or Z31 Turbo CV axles - if you have any please PM me I also might be interested in a big brake setup as well as the parts to do a 5 lug conversion

I had to remove the pedal (3 screws that bolt it to the firewall), then bend the top of the shaft where the cable connects further toward the rear of the car... had to do it a couple times before I got it perfect...

I removed the charge light from the gauge - it's not needed - haven't finished the wiring on it yet though... If it reads more than 12 volts it's charging!

I disagree - what you did (surgery to the floor) was a one off and what I did was also a one off... The point here is that for the 280z there are better options that actually fit without the need for all the modifications to do the Celica seats in a 280z... In a 240Z they fit great from what I hear, but for a 280z with all the options out there, I'll stick to my guns and say, pick a seat that fits better - it will save folks a ton of headaches

Hmmm Take a look at these - Sparco Chrono - NICE Gonna have to do some measurements! http://www.racinglab.com/sparco-seat-chrono-road.html

DO NOT use nylon style locknuts on your driveshaft bolts!!!!!! - use the proper locknuts!

Just wanted to share that I finished installing the Celica seats in my 75 280Z... The passenger side was VERY easy, but the Drivers side was a total PIA! I would not recommend them for the 280z - probably fine for the 240z... The 280z required reshaping the bump in the tunnel/floor for the original resonator/cat - definitely not recommended given the other options... I will say however that they are very comfortable and I like them a lot now that I've gone through the pain of installation. Had to weld some custom brackets for the drivers seat once the floors/tunnel was finished being reshaped - not worth posting pics because I definitely consider it a one off

Hmmm - why not just go buy a Charger? LOL Sorry - but the sugar scoops look much better IMHO

I got mine at the local NAPA store. They were the correct hardness and had the correct shank. They were a little too long so I had to trim them, but no big deal.

It's actually much better than you'd expect! Less pedal effort than my Dad's stock 240z from what I can tell so far!

The general answer would be YES the reaction disk was rattling around in the bottom of the booster (I'm going to take it apart and repair it so I have a spare) - although I cannot comment if I have more assist or not... I've only driven it a few miles since the replacement, but the stabiness is gone. In general the Wilwood master cylinder seems to be performing well. The only modification to make it a direct bolt on is to enlarge the mounting holes slightly and I had to make 2 new hard lines to adapt the threads for the MC to the Prop valve below - took a total of 20 minutes! Easy! Also, it's a good idea to lengthen the actuation rod between the MC and the booster - it's adjustable That's the last adjustment that I'll do tomorrow to bring the pedal up slightly... All-in-all I'm really happy with my braking system now! The S12W calipers with vented rotors have always served me well combined (with the porterfield pads) with the MM 240sx rear setup - the addition of the wilwood MS and this new booster seem to round out the system quite nicely!

Hmmm not really... Did the 2+2 have a higher capacity Master Cylinder? If so, were they compensating for the additional pedal effort that it would require? Were they trying to compensate for the additional weight but kept the same master Thus trying to allow more assist with a larger brake booster? Does the larger brake booster even provide more assist? Maybe there was a different reason for it in the 2+2? I've never seen any data that depicts how much assist a given booster provides... have you?

I have an update They show 2 different brake boosters as available for the 75-76 280z (probably other years as well) There's a 8 inch and a 10 inch version... The 8 inch version is the one I had in my Z (1975) Unfortunately the 8 inch version would have taken 3 weeks and the 10 inch version was available immediately. I decided to try the 10 inch version... I have a question about this booster - Was there a larger version to provide additional assist for some reason? I also have noticed that later Z's had the larger booster and also had the 15/16 master cylinder... Is this because the 15/16 Master cylinder requires more pedal effort so the larger booster provided more assist? Just curious about the differences. Anyway - I have the wilwood 1" master with the 10 inch booster and this seems like a real nice combination! Solved my "stabbiness" problem - I will however have to adjust the actuation rod slightly as the brakes grab just a small amount too close to the floor - some might find it fine the way it is, but I'd like to raise it... Thanks for your help - and if anyone knows the deal with the different size boosters I'd love to know Also, the reaction disk was rattling around inside my old booster - I'll take it apart and post some pics in a few days - gotta get my seat brackets fabbed first!

Yeah - I was afraid of that - I had the booster out to paint the engine compartment and I shook it around and it seemed fine and no rubber parts bouncing around inside, but it's the only thing that's logical... although with the different master cylinder I was wondering if that may be the culprit... doubtful but I thought I'd ask...

I have some information to share... I've tried the following: 1. Removed the inline filter and temporarily replaced it with a 1/2" rubber line - it made a marginal improvement - still not satisfied 2. Lowered the fuel pump - no change Tomorrow: Will experiment with having the pump source fuel from a separate fuel can... 1. it should tell me if I have something going on with my fuel tank 2. I will experiment with the separate fuel tank at a different height - if it quiets down when the tank is higher than the pump I may try a different mounting arrangement If none of this does the trick - I will double the rubber mounting and see if that has any effect I also suspect the fitting that came with the JCI setup that goes into the pump - it is very small and it comes off the pump at a 90 degree angle which is not needed with how I have the pump mounted. I might replace it and see if that helps... Anyone else have any other ideas while I'm at this??

Hey all In case you haven't tried to get your hands on a 15/16" 79-80 280zx Master cylinder they are out of stock everywhere and the few I could find were ridiculously priced ($175-$250). Here's my issue: I have the s12W toyota front calipers with 300zx vented rotors up front and the 240sx rear disk conversion from MM. The brakes have always been VERY good... Car sat for awhile and the old Master Cylinder was ready for replacement. I replaced the following items during the refresh: 1. Brand new (not rebuilt) front s12W calipers 2. Porterfield pads all around 3. Rear brakes were fine 4. Replaced the Master cylinder with a Wilwood unit 1" - verified the specs and talked to Wilwood extensively (pic here http://wilwood.com/I...260-8794-lg.jpg) specs here http://wilwood.com/S...spx?itemno=8794 5. The stock prop valve that was on the firewall was eliminated (just made 2 lines to directly connect the lines) - This was done in preparation to add the Wilwood adjustable prop valve which I will install soon After bleeding the system several times, the brakes initially would grab very hard almost all the way at the floor. I then adjusted the actuation rod which extends the rod inside the brake booster... The pedal came up a good amount (not perfect yet though) but they are still very "grabby" - almost like an on/off switch! Impossible to modulate to any degree. Some have said that adjusting the connection at the brake pedal (lengthening it) might help... which I was planning to try... Any thoughts? Would the elimination of that one prop valve (there's 2 in the stock system) cause this condition? Any thoughts on the Wilwood Master Cylinder (it's a nice unit and was $100 via Jegs) - It might be a nice upgrade/option if the 15/16's are getting harder to find and we can find a way to make it work correctly. We checked the stroke and volume against the stock unit and it is virtually the same (I seem to remember 1.12") and Wilwood was confident it would be a great replacement to the stock unit I'm at a loss - maybe you guys have some ideas... Thanks in advance!

I learned something about the post office today. After having gone to my local post office in the past and got the run around, I decided to bring the part to work and took it to the large post office near where I work. What a completely different experience!! I was able to ship it with insurance AND tracking and it was CHEAPER than the first time we sent it!!! I also think I figured out why the first one never made it - A part of the address was missing... hopefully it's right this time The most interesting part is that I was able to send it priority mail and it will be there in 7-10 days!!! Lesson learned - If you're dealing with a small post office that doesn't ever do much than deliver mail to your neighborhood, you might be better off trying a different one! It was a COMPLETELY different experience!!

Hey - digging up an old post - I have been cleaning up my garage (I finally sold my 240Z and can now concentrate solely on my 280z)... I found a box of pulleys and all sorts of odds and ends that I used in various iterations of my old SC setup PM me if you're interested... I'd let the whole box go real cheap - I know we discussed it before, but the box disappeared in my garage and emerged yesterday!

Well Tony, he has been patient and I'm trying to be a nice guy about it - It's not a super expensive part so I figure eating the shipping a second time to try to make it right is my best option... If anyone knows of a way to get a small package to Norway that I can utilize tracking and possibly insuring it, I'm all ears! FEDEX wanted to charge a ridiculous amount for it so we already eliminated that as an option

Well Thanks everyone for your opinions I think I'm just going to take my chances and send another one to Norway (it's the last one I have) - If he get's two of them, then so-be-it I'll follow Tony's advice and take photo's of everything, email the pics, email a copy of the receipt and I'll call that the best I can do. If that's not good enough well then, I'm not sure what more I could do... I envision the first part that I mailed sitting on the floor in the original unopened package sitting under someones desk, where all of a sudden the light will come on and they'll push it along to it's destination

Ron - I understand - that wasn't my post though

I'm working on trying to find the receipt (it was shipped over 45 days ago so it's not on the top of the pile) - as you can see by my other posts my wife handled shipping it... I certainly don't want anyone feeling like they got screwed so I'll figure out something, so in the end no one comes away with a good result in these cases - bummer Insurance would have solved the problem - but that wasn't an option... plus I'm sure if I tried to put in a insurance claim (hypothetically since that isn't an option), they'd require more time to go by to make sure it is actually lost vs. just taking a very long time...

Trust me Tony - if it comes down to that, we'll find the receipt - it was shipped and done so correctly - it'll be a pain, but I'll get the wife to dig through her receipts more thoroughly - hasn't been a priority because I'm positive it was shipped correctly. I'm more inclined to wait - I did some searching on the internet - there's reports of things taking 6 months or longer to get there - I had no experience ever trying it before, so I made a natural assumption it would take a fairly reasonable (a few weeks at most) amount of time - USPS will no longer get any of my business after this episode!

I didn't tell anyone "just deal with the USPS yourself" - not sure how you jumped to that conclusion! I'M the one who has dealt with the post office and gotten nowhere and if you read several of the other posts MANY folks have experienced much longer times for things to get there AND there's no proof either way that it ever arrives... If you look at it from the other point of view (not that I suspect this happened but you never know) - anyone could say "it never arrived give me my money back", when they could have received it - one of the major points here is there's no way to track it. The extra set of dynamics at play here is also the USPS and the fact that it is "the black hole" in international shipping and they have no way to track or insure shipments to Norway. My eBay feedback is 100% with a few hundred transactions and I will always do the right thing... I've certainly learned that I will never ship another item outside of the country ever again unless it's clear that once it leaves it's non refundable and they buy at their own risk! In this case, I did everything right - the item was packed correctly, shipped via the only method available to me and what else can anyone do given the circumstances??? If there was a method for insuring things I obviously would have done so - but those are not options shipping from US to Norway

Wow - maybe we're being too impatient? As far as proof I mailed it - my wife is looking for it. She handled mailing it for me since it had to be taken to the post office and mailed from there... My wife usually drops off all of my shipments to a local pack and ship that specializes in FEDEX, so this was a diversion from the norm... if we had sent it from the normal place I could just go there and ask the owner for the receipt. The post office has proven to be useless and has no ability to help... unreal. I have an extra one of the parts that I had sent - I'm considering trying to send another one (which means I have to eat the shipping and the cost of the part again). Since it's a small part, I may try a different method of shipment - any ideas on the best way to ship to Norway? This will be my last attempt if I decide to eat this, so I want to get it right... I don't think a refund is appropriate, but I would like to try to satisfy the transaction... Think I should request half the shipping cost or something to try it again? Appreciate your thoughts and opinions - thanks