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kj280z

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Everything posted by kj280z

  1. Correction - it was shipped to Norway - the stuff I sent to Holland made it there just fine Are there differences in shipping from US to Norway that would cause it to take this long?
  2. Hmmm taking responsibility (partially) for the USPS losing this - basically that makes it a double loss since the shipping cost was expensive (the buyer paid for it but would also want a refund for that I assume...) So in essence the impact to me in that case is I no longer have the part and now have to layout cost (so refunding doubles my loss since I no longer have the part to resell) Plus I believe the guy is honest but there's no way to ever know if it arrives in the future after I've given any portion of the money back - tough situation - I know Not sure what to do!! Plus - anyone could say they never received a part (not that it happened in this case) in situations like this and there's no way to handle that easily since tracking and insurance apparently wasn't an option when my wife shipped it. Love to hear more opinions...
  3. It was sent via surface mail. My wife handled the shipping at the post office and she says the clerk insisted there was no way to insure it - I was concerned about the same thing... It was too cost prohibitive to send via air mail unfortunately... The guy is getting impatient and I want to manage the situation as best I can... I fear it's lost -
  4. Hey all I'd like to get some opinions on how to handle a situation. I shipped a part out of the country. It was sent via USPS to <correction> Norway. The Post Office did not have a way for me to insure it. It was shipped at least 45 days ago and I've gone to the post office and asked for information about the package and they say they have no way to track it. Apparently, the item never arrived in Norway. The person would like a refund. I no longer have the part, so I'd have to eat this cost. It doesn't feel right that this cost becomes my responsibility, but I'd like to hear your thoughts... I suppose I've learned my lesson that I will now only sell to folks in the US, but anyway... Since I value my reputation and always try to do the right thing I'd like to solicit your opinions UGH Ken
  5. I think your best bet would be to call Wade at Speed hut and ask if it's ok to drill a hole in the gauge face - it may effect the indiglo operation Also, I'm not sure if the gauge will work correctly with the stop removed - mine are the 280z style -
  6. Here's a picture of the speedhut gauge face installed on my speedo - I did not experience what you're talking about so pics would help I subsequently changed to their tach and GPS speedometer so I have this stock tach and stock speedo already converted and ready for someone if they want them
  7. Mine sounds like this except even louder, but the pitch is the same... though I'd share... Seems like there's a lot of people experiencing this with the Walbro pumps based on all the you tube posts!! http://www.youtube.c...feature=related My neighbors could hear mine and even made a comment about it! LOL
  8. On the inlet side (the short hose from the pump to the tank) I believe I've always run 1/2". It's only around 8 inches long I think I initially misunderstood what you were asking - sorry bout that
  9. I hear you - Luckily I've only driven it 10 miles but I need to resolve this asap so I can move forward finalizing the rest of the build Hopefully it's good - I was using the stock fuel lines with my previous turbo L motor which made 365 rwhp and given that the 3/8" line is larger I was under the impression it was good - I'll do some more research on that... I thought it was 100 Micron, but after looking at the link it made me question it as well - My free flow test should provide some insight if this was contributing Got it - I had plans to add it, but until I figure this out my thinking was to not introduce any more variables I have it mounted vertically, any thoughts if mounting it horizontally (and as low as possible) would have any effect? Being that the suction side is level with the outlet on the tank with it's current mounting I thought that would be optimal, but I could be wrong I'm also wondering about this - my only solace is that I saw no signs of sediment or anything concerning in the fuel when I drained the tank - I started with a nice fresh tank of gas - but certainly something I'll have to keep an eye on... I have a brandy new 280Z tank that was actually opened, refurbished, and re-welded (very nice job) that if necessary I'll install once I've exhausted all other trouble shooting options I REALLY appreciate all the input!!!
  10. Yes we're going to check that tomorrow - We're actuating the pump using the wire provided within the stock Camaro harness (the company that modded my harness did a fantastic job but definitely worth checking) This thing is SOOO loud that it's gotta be more than that IMHO though, but it might be multiple small issues all adding up to one heck of a obnoxious noisy pump! I have never heard one even close to this!! unreal!
  11. Thanks!!! Answers! I find the 255 to be a little on the loud side, comparatively, but it sounds like you might have something else going on. A few things come to mind... Should you be able to hear it from 20 feet away whining or inside the car with open headers? LOL it's REALLY bad! 1) The 3/8 feed line seems smallish. I was under the impression that this was the recommended size for typical stock Z car LS1 installs?? 2) What micron is the filter (between the tank and pump)? 100 Microns -6AN - standard Summit inline filter (new) - here's a link - it "might" be 40 Microns as indicated at this link - I will crawl under it tomorrow and reverify - also I'll try taking out the filter and let it free flow to see what happens http://www.summitrac...rts/SUM-230102/ 3) I didn't notice you mention a filter between the pump and rails. Did I miss it? Currently I do not have a filter between the pump and the rails 4) How high is the pump mounted, relative to the tank? The pump is mounted (mounted to the stock 280z fuel pump mounting points with a custom mount that I fabbed) kinda high with the suction on the bottom with a very short run to the tank and the outlet on the top - 5) What tank (240 or 280?) and is the supply line (to the filter) unmodified? I'm running the stock 1975 280Z tank that has been refurbished - the feed line is attached to the larger fitting that comes out of the tank, the return is hooked up to the smaller of the 2. The tank is unmodified except for the refurbishing - possibly some of the internal coating from the refurbishing could be clogging it?? P.S. The Aeromotive FPR has a reputation of not holding pressure. I don't like it, and don't agree with the arguments, but it's common. Also, regardless of the FPR, the system WON'T hold pressure if there is no functioning check valve, and I don't believe the 255 comes with one. Got it - I have been using this particular FPR for 8 years and it seems to have provided good service thus far - I will keep an eye on it
  12. Hmm - It's brand new but anything is possible - the fact that my OLD Aeromotive pump did the same thing has me suspecting that there's more to it... I didn't have an inline filter on it so who knows... I have also been checking the Mustang forums and they all say that the Walbro 255 is VERY quiet although there are isolated cases where they have experienced the same condition I'm describing - still haven't found a post that solved the problem yet, but I'm still searching!
  13. Cable I would tend to agree, although a friend is running the Walbro 255 in his Z and mine is literally 10 times louder! It will drive you nuts kinda loud! So I do have a fair comparison and would find his to be perfectly acceptable, but mine has gotta have something causing it to be as loud as it is
  14. OK - I remember seeing a post about this but I can't find it. Been looking for an hour... Anyway - hopefully this is not a dupe. I finally got my LS1 Z on the road! The Walbro 255 fuel pump is gonna drive me crazy! It's obnoxiously loud whining (I can't stand whiners) I realize that most of you are going to quickly jump to the conclusion that my pump is having to work too hard or it has a clogged filter etc... Let me describe how I have the fuel system installed which "might" lead to a partial answer. 1. Fuel runs from the tank to an inline filter (brand new) then to the pump (Walbro 255) 2. All fuel lines were replaced with new 3/8" lines (feed and return) 3. I have aftermarket solid fuel rails. 4. Fuel enters the rail on the passenger side rear 5. The fuel rails are connected via AN fittings (proper size) and steel braided line across the front of the engine 6. I have an aeromotive FPR mounted on the back of the drivers side rail 7. The return runs off the FPR back to the tank 8. My pump is completely rubber mounted and insulated As you can see everything is BRAND NEW! My tank was reconditioned and is in good shape - it was also drained fully and there was zero sediment in it prior to startup Some things I'm suspecting and would like to hear your thoughts: 1. The inline filter might be causing the issue? 2. My previous motor was a high HP turbo L motor and I had an aeromotive pump installed at the time - it was ALSO very obnoxiously loud - In this instance, the only 2 components that were retained from the old system were the FPR and the fuel tank - maybe the pickup tube in the tank was partially blocked by the material the shop used to coat the inside? 3. My FPR does not keep pressure on the system when the motor is turned off - it has always done that - seems to be fine, but maybe worth noting Any ideas????
  15. I'm watching this post - I have 2 Z's - Almost done with my LS1 280z and already have the KA24de/5 speed sitting here waiting to go in my 240z with a nice turbo
  16. Don't bother - it's a waste of your time - those guys suck! The show will be cancelled any time soon
  17. Looking awesome! I have those wheels on my car now - they look great! Actually, today is the maiden voyage for my LS1 Z
  18. Hey - Most of that stuff is not required so I had a local place delete it when I had my PCM reprogrammed. I now have only one fuse block in the stock harness. Essentially though, there were no modifications made to the length in any sections, especially from the plugs that go to the PCM to where it splits - so you have the same amount of length in that section that all of us do in the regard... If you look at the location of your PCM and then imagine it on the opposite side of the firewall in basically the same location, there's enough space even with yours to do so if you desire
  19. I'm using the same harness as you and I was able to get the PCM mounted behind the glovebox (280z) no problem - And it makes the engine compartment installation look much cleaner IMHO You should give it a try
  20. Isn't there a second line that comes out of the condenser? I only see one in your pics - You've got me wondering about the correct hose routing now... Here's a descent drawing...
  21. I made brackets that utilize the stock mount and mounted it behind the glove box
  22. Joe, I'm about to have mine made by a great AC shop down here... I can have 2 sets made if you want. The only detail that I need to work out is the location to mount the dryer (which would impact your hoses)... With the compressor on the drivers side, the space to mount a dryer is limited on that side... Might be doable to mount the dryer in front of the radiator support on the drivers side... Also, what condenser are you using? I'm using the one that came with the Motorsport AC kit
  23. They are the worst bunch of fhack amateurs on car related TV! I will never watch that BS show again! Waste of time!
  24. All I saw was a bunch of half assed butchering by both teams - TOTALLY lame! The paint on the red car was HIDEOUS and most of the mods were just plain amateur on the red Z The white one was a total mess - the body work was a joke and I'd bet if you saw EITHER of those cars in person without their "creative TV editing" you'd be mortified at the hack job stupidity done by both teams
  25. Any updates on your installation?
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