triple B

well i decided to make a thread about my project. it is moving slow as money is always a problem or i shoudl say lack there of. i have torn down the motor and i gotten the motor and such out of the Z so far. once i get the car striped down i am going to begin the body work as i sandblast the subframes and get the urethane bushings in them. then build the motor so far the build on the motor is going to consist of CP 8.5:1 forged pistons (86mm bore) Eagle H beam connecting rods ACL race bearings ARP rod bolts and head bolts Greddy intake manifold this is what i have bought so far. i am buying a tubular exhaust manifold and a GT35R turbo along with SARD 850cc injectors and fuel rail. i am still decideing on what kind of valves and retainers to get and cams. i have the clutch choices narrowed down. but i digress here are soem nice build pics and now some of the engine torn down and the car in various stages of deconstruction well i got a long ways to go but i will update as i get stuff done. i hope i get the car at least running ( maybe not road worthy but running) this summer so it can at least get a drivable tune so i can drive it when its ready to hit the road

well a radiator is an intercooler. but they are both technically heat exchangers. it is acting as a second radiator. regardless isn't alot of the stuff you are wanting to put up already here in one form or another and some are even sticky. i would find a consolidated list of links in sticky form helpful for engien stuff. but since i am putting my RB25 in a Z31 i would only find engine related stuff helpful

its bascially acting like a mid system intercooler for the engine coolant so that it cools better in the hotter portion of the engien bay

looks good man

well you can find parts easier or at least domestically for the SR20 i personally would do the RB25 but if you have an L28 already why not use that if you are on a budget

have you ever done an engine swap before? although not extremely difficult and fairly common ( on this forum) it is a very big challange. big thing is is being able to fabricate things or knowning someone who can

a twin disk clutch does not neccsasarily hold up to more torque. in theory a twin disk clutch is to provide more surface area in a smaller package so that the bite of the clutch stays the same as a larger unit. a multidisk clutch will support more torque and lots of bite as there is a much larger surface area of friction material and the multiple plates will allow more slippage so that the clutch unit can handle the increase in torque while allowing the power to transfer to be unaffected. the key thing is when you have lots of torque the clutch slips and burns up because it cannot handle the load being put on it. the best comparison i have heard is its the same affect as haveing a brake caliper frozen and it eats the pad 10 time faster. the friction and heat kill it and the material becomes glazed and ruined and the rotor itself ( or in this case the flywheel) become warped and ruined due to heat. Exedy clutches are a multidisk design and hold up very well. our club president and race team leader has one in his EVO 8 which is around 716 hp to the wheels and just shy of 500 ft lbs of torque. extended repeated use ( like at the track) will give you slippage but thats just a fact of life for anything when lots of heat is involved, well except for carbon fiber stuff you have to get that stuff hot to have it work right

i got eagle h beam rods for my RB25 along with CP 8.5:1 pistons i am hoping for over 600hp on race gas running 850cc or bigger injectors with a GT35R turbo so what seems to fail on the stock rods and when. we talking bearings or wrist pins or just out right breakage?

i must be a big brute then cause i know i have had no problems moving my trans around . i guess i can see if the 20 is similar to the l series trans. i am putting mine in a Z31 so the size difference is pretty minimal

yeah i was wondering why everybody is using the RB20 trans myself? i got a RB25 trans with my RB25 when i bought it.

yeah i bought an osaka motor and the intake manifold was cracked and the turbo was blown i am building the engine so i was not overly pissed it was a principle thing though.

what is the lift and duration on the stock cams? and whats the power band like i have not driven a stock one yet and mine is going to be modified when it is running. whats a good lift duration to go with on and RB25 for a high reving power band ?

ahh i love the old skylines looks good man

well increasing the oil clearance increase the amount of oil going over the bearing. remember besides lubricating the bearing surface it also cools the bearings. when you increase the oil clearance this can cause a drop in oil pressure espcially if its big. this is why people upgrade to n1 oil pumps and bigger. i am not sure if .001 is going to cause a huge fluctuation in pressure but it will help prolong the bearing life. also plastaguage is the best thing ( in my expereince) to measure bearing clerances. just make sure everything it torqued down to spec when measuring though

no i am just haingin out with some friends and seein a girl i dated while i lived down there. let me know about the track i think most of us can go sunday i can race and get some wrench time in on the Z:-D

havin 4 EVO's ( one monster built by AMS) in the club i know this pain all to well damn AWD:biggrin:

cool saturday or sunday? i am going to be in detroit majority of saturday

thats gotta be an uber osgiken for 1800

hell even the v6's are hot boxes

sweet i can bring em just lemme know when you are hittin the track. once i borrow the sawzall from work to cut the exhauts pipes ( bolts being bitchy) i should have it out next weekend and then i should have the rb at least mocked up in the car while i fab the mounts

well here are some pics as promised

that puts it price point wise in the range of the Z06 vette i saw a prototype GTR toolin around bay city, mi and i just about lost it. i guess the design center down in detroit had one they were road testing for cold weather.

cool if you are hitting ubly next weekend i will see if some of my boys want to come out to run em and watch

well do i think like 30 or 40 bucks sounds fair for all of them they need rings i can tell my engine was burning oil before it got yanked

i was going to put some more pics up today when i got home actually i have all my rods and pistons and was not really going to do anything with them the caps will mot come off a couple of them when i put them back on (unbolted) so if you want some of them they are yours