BRAAP

OOhhhh.... Warn us next time...

Naviathan, Sorry to hear of your cam failure. Definitely sucks, big time. Now some of what I’m about to say, you probably aren’t wanting to hear/read, I’m only posting this as it may help out when you go to reinstall your replacement cam and it may help others from experiencing this same fate. First off, those worn off lobes are now in the bottom of your oil pan and in your oil filter as fine metal particles so you will want to remove the pan to fully clean out the debris and also be sure to remove and flush the oil pickup as the screen will catch the larger particles. Depending on how much of the particle laden oil was slung against the pistons and cylinder walls, some slight cylinder wall scoring is common in such instances as well, but generally not severe. Also, the oil pump will be scored as it pumps unfiltered oil. Generally, the pump will still function just fine, but you will want to remove the oil pump and disassemble it including the bypass plunger as metal shavings will be lodged between the plunger and pump body. Again, I’m sorry this isn’t what you wanted to hear, but the pan, pump, and pickup need to be cleaned to reduce any further damage when you run the engine with your new cam. The first thing that comes to mind, especially being as you have the “dual” oiling system, (internal gun drilled AND spray bar), is cam wipe pattern, i.e., wrong lash pads for that head and cam combo. Has this head been overhauled in the past, i.e. surfaced on the top and bottom, valve grind etc? When you installed the cam did you verify the cam wipe pattern on each of the rockers? Did you install new lash pads, other than stock? Schneider cams have been known to be soft which can be the cause for this failure. With both internal and external oiling as you have, the wrong lash pads are the usual cause for premature cam failure which I feel the cam manufactures are at least partially to blame for cam failures due to improper lash pads. MSA/Schneider, and a few other cam manufactures have their “recommendation” for a specific lash pad for each of their cams. I whole heartedly disagree with that practice. The cam wipe pattern needs to be verified for every valve and the appropriate lash ordered and installed for that valve to attain the proper wipe pattern. This should be done for every new cam and after every valve job and/or top surface/cam tower shims being added. There is absolutely NO way those cam manufactures can know if a customers head was overhauled back “to” factory specs or any “specs”. More often than not, when someone takes their overheated or tired L-series head to a machine shop for an overhaul/valve grind/surface, they end up with a basic valve job and surfacing just to get it back on the road. Items such as cam tower shims, valve stem heights, etc, will be ignored, (and people wonder why we charge so darn much just for a basic head overhaul?). It takes time which cost substantially more to “properly” set up the valve train after a valve grind and surfacing. With the typical slam bam head overhaul, the valve stem heights are usually all different, let alone near factory specs, and as such, will require different lash pads to bring the cam wiping pattern where it should be, (in the middle of the rocker), for a long lasting happy camshaft. As long as the wipe pattern is verified and the appropriate lash pads installed that produces that proper cam wipe pattern, then all should be well for 100,000+ miles, barring a soft cam core of course. Again, I’m sorry to hear of your cam failure. I hope you are able to get it back up and running soon.

Yeup. That could be the issue, (whatever that exact issue is other than crappy boost and high vacuum!?!?!?!?) and approx 100-1000 other items may be just as likely. When posting a technical diagnostic question, please don’t be so vague. We could start listing everything that could be causing your issue starting with the air cleaner and ending at the tail pipe including EVERY part in between that the air passes through, in and around, including the battery, EFI, etc… Here are a few questions to give you an idea of what we need to help. 1) Did this issue just arise instantly one day, or was this engine just swapped in and has always been this way since installation? 2) Is the engine stock, modified, if modded, what mods, i.e. OE or aftermarket EFI, turbo, etc? 3) Have you verified fuel pressure? 4) Have you verified ignition timing? 5) Have you verified your ignition coil is not dieing? 6) What do you mean by High vacuum? 7) When you swapped out the cam, are you positive the cam is still timed correctly with the crank, i.e. not one tooth off? 8) Anything else you may have already looked at, diagnosed etc that would help rule out or point to other possible issues…

Way cool. Thank you for sharing…

The EDIS module handles the dwell, NOT mega squirt. Nothing to set "dwell" wise in MS when using EDIS. Mega squirt only sends a pulse signal to the EDIS module which the EDIS module interprets as the desired amount of ignition advance, which the EDIS module then delivers. The only control you have or need over EDIS when using Mega Squirt is the timing advance table. That’s it.

For the L-series, that my friends is perfection… Very nice MONZTER. I am glad you found it in your heart to publicly post more info and pics of that sweetheart.

Yeepsie doodle. Dat be da one fer sure..

Schwiplarkin, There is a dedicated section of this forum JUST for testing pics, avatars, signatures etc. That is the ONLY place allowed to perform such tests so please do not use established threads for testing anymore. Here is a link to that section of the HybridZ forum; http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=77 Thank you

DOH!!! The front of that car is BENT and bent bad! It appears to be forward of the strut towers which doesn’t affect the suspension so much, but it definitely has an issue. Due to the severity of that damage, I’d be very much concerned about damage behind the strut towers as well. If damage is also behind the strut towers and you and have no plans to straighten the car and add chassis stiffening, I’d ditch that shell and transfer all your goodies over to a good straight shell. If that were my car and I was dead set on keeping that shell, I would take it down do a body shop and have the car checked thoroughly front to rear to make the rest of the car is square plumb. Even if the shop is able to “realign” the car, it wont be as rigid as it was prior to the accident. If you are discerning track driver, you will most l likely want to perform some chassis stiffening for the affected areas after the shell is realigned, i.e. firewall forward at least. Good luck, Paul

Using the Lokar throttle cable, just drill off the swage on the back side of the pivot ball that is on the end of the OE gas pedal. Then slightly round off the edges of the end of the pedal and the Lokar clevis fits PERFECTLY! I thought I posted pics of that exact set up in the past but can’t seem to find them, sorry. If you perform a search here on HybridZ, you’ll find more details on how others have attached various throttle cables to the OE pedal or used alternative pedals. It’s been done many times… Good luck, Paul

Ron Davis Radiator, captured full floating mount with 100% rubber isolation. Lower mounts are sandwiched between the frame-rail the OE tie down loops.

Tony, Great info as always, thank you. I have a quick stupid question that I should already know the answer to. Being as the OE EFI pump is designed to run under a load, i.e. 30+ PSI, is there an issue with running it at lower pressures say in the 1-3 PSI range for extended periods? My conventional wisdom says the pump should last longer as it isn’t working as hard, i.e. less current draw, building less heat internally, etc, but it will be spinning faster. Could the higher RPM be a long term issue? TIA, Paul

The wiring in the S-30 car is quite simple and easy to trace out, especially if something doesn’t work at all. With a decent wiring diagram, even the Haynes manual has a decent wiring diagram, trace the wiring from the battery to the lights, through the switches, relays, fuses, connectors and back to the body earth. Now, with that traced out, use your test light and verify power at various points along the wiring path in your car for those items. Find if they have common element such as fusible link, etc which could help narrow down your search. You should have power at the battery, so start tracing there and at various points till you get to he point there is NO more power and then you will know the ISSUE is between the last point you had power and the point you don’t have power. Unless there is more than one issue any how. Good luck.

Brian, Yeah, lately we have seen a rise in posts going to the tool shed for sure. Since we now have some affiliation to Google we are getting a LOT more traffic from random searches and more new people registering. These new drop-ins then just post without understanding what this forum is dedicated to, or is about, let alone reading the rules. I recall one recent new member thought it was an IROC-Z forum and another one was asking Jeep questions. Any how, there are quite a few newbie threads that are left alone, the blatant ones, well, they are given reason why their posts are being thrown in the shed, given a link to the rules an guidelines. In some instances, we’ll throw them a bone such as some search results, or what key words to search for.

Very cool indeed. Good Start Quincy, only 7 more to go…

WOW!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50YdifpOrPQ&mode=related&search=

DOH!! Caught, "white over white" on short final.. Nothing a little “slip” can’t take care of right? You a pilot Globe?

Well, you see, Ron, (aka "Slider"), is just jealous cause he knows he will never be as fast or as good of a driver, so he resorts to shameless name calling… “Slider?... (sniff… sniff…), you stink….”

WOWZERS!!! VERY nice.. Keep the pics coming...

I’m Guilty to Larry… In a few Z’s and an Infiniti.. DOH! YEUP! Know when to LIFT and how much!

The intake manifold on the VH45DE is rather tall. Depending on your fabrication skills, you could design and build your own low profile manifold that would fit under the stock bonnet. Here is a picture of a custom manifold on the VH45DE , though this particular design probably isn’t short enough fit under the Z32 bonnet, it does represent how radical you can get with a custom manifold on the VH45DE.

I have it here in the shop in Sandy Oregon, just outside of Portland. The suspension is all I have left of the car, that is for sale any how. Another well established HybridZ member has the shell and those monster slicks, (he was just viewing this thread a moment ago), another nearby racer has the engine and the R-160 LSD, GearHeadStik has the induction, Mega squirt and EDIS ignition, the 5 speed is in the 2+2 show car that Ron Tyler built the custom intake manifold for. I’m keeping the radiator, instruments, radiator, driver side alternator conversion, and few other little trinkets.

You must have missed the references with actual dyno figures in this thread pertaining to more than a few HUGE power producing engines running seemingly small throttle bodies. Small throttle bodies have been ran and posted in this thread with dyno results to back it up, not just bench racing or theory. On a Z car engine, whether it is N/A or running 30 PSI of boost, going from a 60mm TB to a 90 MM throttle body isn't going to free up any more appreciable HP, if any at all, nor should hurt power either, though as John C. brought up, an engineered throttle body size taking advantage of the air “velocity” under specific conditions and RPMS, which includes engineering the entire induction tract from the air filter to the intake valve, a smaller throttle body should produce a tad more torque. Personally, I view the 90mm throttle body on any L-series engine on the same level as a 4” exhaust tip on a 4 cylinder Honda. Why bother. HP is air flow, period! You can make so much HP with so much air flow, (efficiencies such as engine friction, pumping losses etc will skew those figures a tad, but in general, air flow is HP), If the throttle body is a restriction, then HP would be down. Now if those references such as a single 2” (50.8 mm) ID OE Datsun throttle body flowing enough air with only 12 PSI of boost to produce over 570 HP recorded HP on the dyno, (I guarantee you that NO turbo L-28 or Turbo RBxxDE on this forum is flowing that much air with only 12 lbs of boost no matter what throttle body they are running), or any of the other examples such as the rally example above, isn’t enough empirical proof, not just bench raced, sorry. As for the SR20DET with the Q-45 TB? Sure, it isn’t hurting his performance, but rest assured that 90 mm throttle body isn’t giving that 2L engine ANY more power over what a 60mm throttle would deliver, N/A or Boosted! As for drivability, that is totally subjective and is dependant on many factors, such as the engines torque curve, whether or not the HUGE throttle body has “cammed” actuation and if so, the details of the camming such as, is it a linear opening rate, or a rising or falling rate, (as viewed on graph, curved)? Throttle response/drivability is a tunable parameter by camming the actuation, and each persons idea of the optimum throttle response/drivability is going to be different as well. As an aside, there is one member on this forum, 280Zforce, that is running the Q-45 throttle body on his boosted L-28. How he executed his entire induction system, visually, it is NOT overly blingy or rice. His engine bay, and his entire car for that matter, is rather stunning. That's my $.02, again...

Depends on what else is included. Does that include the rack, cross member etc? Car was wrecked? Any guarantee that the suspension was not damaged or stressed during the accident? I currently have a very similar set up for sale, though I’m not including an LSD diff or half shafts. Complete front and rear suspension off my 240-Z race car. Approx 6 hours total time all parts, all is still assembled ready to bolt up. All that is needed is the Ground control coil over upper spring perches front and rear which cost less than $20 ea from GC. Not wrecked, just parted out the race car to build the street Z. Front suspension; Front cross member with the 240 rack and pinion, T/C rods, Ploy T/C bushings, LCA with Poly LCA bushings, brand new wheel bearings, new brake rotors, new Porterfield R4 pads, new braded stainless brake lines, brand new tie rod ends, brand new lower ball joints, strut tubes are sectioned and have the shorter G/C Tokico 5 ways installed, Ground control coil overs and adjustable spring perches, bump steer spacers, S/T front bar with frame mount hardware and poly bushings. Rear suspension; Control arms with inner and outer Poly bushings, new spindle pins, ZX rear disc conversion with new rotors, Porterfield R-4 pads, new braided stainless brake lines, new wheel bearings, sectioned strut tubes with the shorter G/C Tokico 5 ways, Ground Control coil over springs and adjustable spring perches, S/T rear mount sway bar with new uprights and mounting hardware, poly bushings. I’m also including another set of Porterfield R-4 pads still in the box. I tallied all the receipts to around $3100 for all the aftermarket parts alone, (not including the cross member, steering rack, labor for the rear disc conversion, labor for the strut sectioning and Coil over set up, bearing installation, bushing install etc), and am asking $2000 for this set up. I will NOT ship this as I don’t have time to crate it, though delivery within 100 mile radius of Portland OR can be arranged for a little extra. Front; Rear;