BRAAP

Not small displacement, but it is small in width. Get this. A 60 degree V-8, 5.3 L displacement, 350 HP. Hmmm… That would have some real WOW factor under the hood of a Z.. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/events/dynamicevent/2/696/yamaha_previews_first_v8_53-liter_four-stroke_outboard_.aspx

So is this a starting/starter issue or a seized engine issue? The front crank pulley bolt takes a 27 mm socket. Get a ½” drive 27mm socket, a 3”long ½’ drive extension, and a ½” breaker bar and try to rotate the engine over by hand. By absolutely SURE the ignition switch is off, or at least remove the coil wire for safety. If the engine turns over as normal, i.e. it takes a little bit of force to rotate it, then try swapping out your starter.

You could just weld the pin to the cage, or as John mentioned, welding the diff solid. I think I remember seeing some good pics of properly welded diffs on this forum at one time. I ran a fully welded 3.90 R-200 in my V-8 Z and from what I remember, all the spider gears were welded to each other at every contact point, the cage gears were welded to the cage at every possible location. I don’t recall if the gears were welded to the spider shaft or not. As for swapping the ring and pinion, I would think you could source another 3.90 ratio R-200. Probably be easier to just do that instead of swapping over the ring and pinion. I am pretty sure I have at least 1, maybe even two, 3.90 ratio R-200’s that I most likely won’t use.

Yes, this is common and even happens with bone stock N/A L-28’s. The roll pin that secures the shaft your spider gears rotate on will fall out and then that shaft will “waller” (is that a term?) a slot in the cage, just as your picture shows. Due to your aggressive launches, (nice 60’ time by the way), you found it fairly early. On the lower powered L-28 cars, that slot will get very long and then the shaft breaks in half. Also, from now on, could you please shrink your pictures down to smaller than 1024 across? 800x600 is nice all-around picture size so we don’t have to scroll our screens sideways. Thanks, Paul

Driveshaft flanges for the R-230 eh?... Do you mean a driveshaft flange like the JTR flange for the old long nose R-200 that accepts the Chevy U-joint but now available for the R-230? So would that flange also work on the short nose R-200 V-LSD? if not, is a driveshaft flange available for the short nose N/A Z-32 and Q-45 R-200 V-LSD? (Sorry for hijacking guys, you can PM me if you prefer).. Thanks, Paul

I’m assuming this is what you are describing. It is VERY common and normal for black liquid to drip out of the tail pipe as the exhaust system warms up when you fire up the engine in the morning, more so in humid climates. The major byproduct of combustion is H2O, (you have probably noticed the steam from other cars tail pipes during cold weather), and because the inside of the exhaust system is coated with soot, that water vapor condenses like in the muffler, and carries the soot with it and depending on many factors like if the car is parked on a hill, etc, this soot laden water will drip out of the exhaust tail pipe, or if you stab the throttle, it will spit out. Sometimes it will spit out little black goobers on to the garage door, (or garage floor some distance away from the tail pipe), if the car is parked near the garage door and you rev it up a little as the car warms up. This happens on brand new cars and old cars alike.

I really didn’t want them coming out to our shop incase they rewarded us by removing some of our other valuables, if you know what I mean…

As for your problem, could be a number of things. Here are just some examples… Pinging/detonation. To verify, first off unplug your vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the vacuum line going the throttle valve, and retest. If it still makes that noise, then with a timing light, back off ignition timing approx 5 degrees, (retard the timing 5 degrees from where it is currently at), and retest with the vacuum advance still disconnected. If it is burning lots of oil, that will cause the detonation as well. Fix the internal oil consumption issue. It could also be the timing chain slapping against the chain guides and front cover. That is usually a result of insufficient oil pressure to the chain tensioner and/or chain tensioner rubbing block and/or guides are destroyed/missing. It could be a rod bearing with excess clearance, i.e spun bearing. Or a collapsed/busted piston skirt allowing piston slap. Depending on the severity and amount of load being applied, either of these will be quiet at low load such as idle, but will knock/rattle as throttle is applied. If under wide open throttle, if it sounds as though someone is building a house under your hood, just turn off the key, open your check book and commence sobbing, unless you have a spare engine laying around. Your problem could be a number of other things as well. We really need more detailed information to help accurately diagnose without actually being there to see and hear this for ourselves.

What is it about Craig’s list. It is worse than WalMart. I’m parting out the Q-45, posted it on Craigs list and I get this… From: &%$@&$@aol.com To: sale-339101920@craigslist.org Subject: ’96 Infiniti Q-45, Black on Black, Parting out Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 19:23:38 EDT hi, I have an infiniti 91, q45 that I lost the key for. Tomorrow I"m going to DMV to put the registration in my name, only had the car since 5/17. My sister tried to be kind to the homeless with clothes and food, and they have rewarded us by taking our only car key . What a shame that one can't help someone these days without getting ripped off ! If you'd sell me the key cheap, I"d appreciate it, if you don't need it anymore , I can show you paperwork to prove it's my car if you want . Let me know, thanks alot. Maria The graciousness of the homeless. Oh, and good thing she has paperwork proving ownership of her Q to purchase my key?!?!? My response.. Maria, Just curious as to why you think my ’96 key will work in your ’91 car? Keys are cut with different combinations for a reason. You have a better chance at winning the Mega Bucks lottery than my key working in your car. Trust me on this. You are much better off going directly to Infiniti of Beaverton with your car, and they will be able to cut a key that will work. Good luck.

As Jon pointed out. The fuel atomization of Carbs is phenomenal. EFI tuners are also starting to find more power moving the injectors further away from the combustion chamber giving the fuel more chance to atomize with the air, ala the Throttle body EFI and F-1’s stand off injectors in Jon’s references. I know that Carbs seem so barbaric, and as I stated in my pervious post, when it comes to producing outright big power, carbs really get the job done and quite well at that.

Yes the trans would be an issue. Adapting the Z-32 5 speed to the L-series has been done and it appears to be holding up to low 11’second ET, (Hopefully soon to be in the 10’s). Also, a T-56 could be adapted if need be. Now as for the chassis stiffening. If the Diesel car could run 12’s, it shouldn’t need any other reinforcing over what a Gas engine Z car of the same weight that runs 12’s would require. (I am not taking into account torque under the curve here and I do realize that does play role. It is a small role and not in context with the overall point I’m trying to convey). As you mentioned, the Diesel variant would be taller geared vs a gas equivalent. The purpose of a Transmission, (transmissions are torque multipliers), is to trade Torque for RPM, and vice versa. Taller gears mean more RPM and less torque, or less RPM and more torque, depends on the ratio between the input vs output, i.e gear ratio. In short, the torque produced AT the wheels from the diesel car and Gas car that are GEARED to both run the same ET and MPH, ultimately would be the similar.

I am first and fore most an EFI guy. But as an engine builder/machinist, I have learned that Carbs due have their place, even on a modern high tech power plant. Carbs are a simple to install means of introducing fuel to the air stream, and the atomization characteristics of carburetors is still first rate. Back in the late ‘90’s only Mechanical injection, (Kinsler, Hillborn etc) could match the fuel atomizing characteristics of carburetors. Still today, I think you’d be hard pressed to find an Electronic Fuel injector with equal or better fuel atomization characteristics. The main advantage that EFI has over carbs is control over how much fuel and when. I.e. pinpoint delivery of fuel at a given RPM and load without affecting the rest of the fuel map. When you change a jet in a carb, you are in essence affecting the entire fuel map so to speak. Also, EFI allows the engine to operate under severe G loading without affecting the AFR. F-1 cars pull 5g lateral acceleration in a high speed corner. Because carbs are a mechanical device, they just won't reliably deliver fuel in that environment. (Of course there are Pressure carbs, such as used in aviation on aerobatic air planes… ) Again, Carbs offer incredible fuel atomization, ease of installation, the ability to get the engine up and running in a timely manner, over all induction costs are much less, and overall WOT performance will be comparable to EFI, (look at how much power NASCAR engine builders get from Carbs with highly restrictive plates?!?!). Until EFI can match those criteria, I can honesty see where Carbs still have a place, even on today’s modern high tech power plants, even though my first choice is EFI.

Hmm.. Looks like the LD28 head is shorter in height overall as compared to the L series, and the cam towers look as though the bases of the towers themselves are thicker. Maybe the cam centerline to head deck surface is the same as L-series? If you look at the water outlet, (thermostat housing area), it looks as though Nissan shaved the top of the head down and lowered then intake ports considerably. At any rate, being as the ports, in particular the intakes, are so low, that means the port has a sharp 90 degree turn, (tighter centerline radius), as the air makes the transition from the manifold to the valve seat. High velocity air flow will suffer because of the sharper turn, (as compared to the L-series). But if the velocities are slow enough, (these things don’t rev that high), it wont be as much of an issue. Hmmm… A little larger port diameter, optimize the port shape both intake and exhaust, see what it would take to install larger valves if possible, I’ve’ got nothing against porting iron heads, (ported MANY a SBC and SBF head), Hmm… Ok, so if you guys are SERIOUS about doing one of these Diesels, and if you are attempting to coax more umph from it, I’ll offer my porting services for free, (gives me the opportunity to play with the LD28 head). You will have to cover any and all parts, but labor would be free. Also, keep in mind that our current work load of custom L-series cylinder heads is VERY heavy, so this project will not be a priority, i.e. as time allows we will tinker with it. For this offer, I would want 2 of these heads. One good one that will be finished product and one scrap head, (as long as it is somewhat complete), so that I can mutilate it to get an idea of just how far I can take the ports, valve sizes etc. I can see it now. Watching Speed TV one Sunday afternoon… The Diesel Car Drag Nats in Pamona, HybridZ’s own monster Diesel Z car in the finals with Garret Maddox at the helm of the LD-28 powered 280ZX 2+2, blowing black clouds through the traps in 17.547 seconds @ 82.567 MPH….

I don’t know why Diesel tuners aren’t revving them higher as more RPM is more horse power, though I’m sure there is a very GOOD reason why they aren’t, (I have a few theories, but I honestly don’t know). AND the cars, I guess in Europe there are Diesel tuners getting impressive HP from the cars. What I have found is that these Turbo Diesel guys are cramming AH MAH GAWD amounts of boost down these things. They are honestly cramming 60+ PSI! My brother in law, Bryan Compton, (owns BC Offroad, a 4 wheel drive ATV aftermarket parts supplier http://bc-offroad.com/shop/ ), and a couple years back he was bragging about running 35 PSI of boost on his then new ¾ ton Dodge Turbo Diesel 6 speed 4x4. He had installed a new Turbo, complete exhaust system, super whiz bang clutch, and some fuel adjuster made by “Edge”. I was like "Chyea right". I honeslty didn’t believe he was boosting to 35 PSI, so he took me for a ride. Sure enough, 35 PSI of boost on the Auto meter boost gauge and his 7000 lbs 4x4 was leaving two strips of rubber from the Super Swampers all the way through 3rd gear! That truck I believe would run at least a low 14 ET, he claimed high 13’s.. He sold it so I guess we’ll never really know, but none the less, it was very impressive, for what it was. Here is one of those aftermarket suppliers selling Turbos for 60+ PSI!!!! http://www.atsdiesel.com/ATSWebsite/ProductsDodge/TurboSystems.asp

Okie Dokie John. I FINALLY got the tutorial put together and posted. Please let me know if it is helpful and where changes could be made to make it easier to understand and interpret. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=783354

Here is a walk-through for beginners on how to embed pictures in your posts on HybridZ and other forums. This tutorial shows you how to do using off site image hosting, (we’ll be using Photobucket in this tutorial, www.photobucket.com). Off site image hosting as the name implies is another web site that you upload your pictures to, from your computer and most of these sites are FREE! With off site image hosting, you just use the tag that has [img.].......[/img.] on both ends of the link to your picture, just paste that into your post. You will need know EXACTLY where the picture you want to post is located within your computer. Get online and go to your image host, (after you have registered with them first). Now click the large green Upload Images and Videos button circled in MAGENTA. A new window will automatically open up that will allow to search your computer for the picture you want to upload. Once you found it then click Open/Select, and the picture will start to upload on its own with an indicator showing the progress. It will take a few seconds or longer depending on how large your picture is memory wise. You can also upload multiple pictures at once. Now that your have uploaded your picture/s, find the picture you want to embed in your post, hover your cursor over the picture and you will see four options drop down below it. For HybridZ and most other forums, you will want the bottom option, click in that bottom window labeled “IMG Code”, circled in MAGENTA below. It will now say “Copied” next to it. If it does not say “COPIED” when you click on it, then right click and select “COPY” or just click on the picture itself to open it directly in a new window with the same options listed to the left of the picture, then just click in the IMG Code window and it should say “COPIED” Now in your post where you want your picture to be embedded, just click your right mouse button, in that menu select “PASTE” and your IMG code will paste in the post. When you are finished composing your post, click “Preview Post” to preview the post and if you did everything correct, your picture will show up embedded in the post. Now click “Add Reply/Post New Topic” and presto. You have now successfully embedded your picture in a post on HybridZ. For those wanting the really super nifty one click image resizer for Windows XP, this works wonderfully! (I am sure there are some out there for Vista and Windows7 if it isn’t already part of your operating system. Not only will this nifty plug-in resize your pics in Winders XP with the click of the mouse, but it will compress the picture, memory wise substantially with very little loss in quality. This is an actual Microsoft utility within the PowerToys pack so no worries of incompatibly. I ran across it by accident a few years ago and for posting pics on the web and sending them via E-mail to users on Dial up, works great for Windows XP users. In the folder you keep your pics, just right click on the image, choose “resize”, then choose what size you want to resize it to, (see pics below)and presto. Image resized that easy. It will not alter the aspect ratio so you don’t have to worry about it scrunching your pictures, and the default is to resize a copy of the original. http://www.microsoft...ppowertoys.mspx

… Or if you use a host site such as Photobucket, (free picture host site), you can post as many pics at any size as you want. For this really cool stuff that John Haag is sharing with us, having them posted in full size all in one thread would be the ideal. At first, using an image hosting site seems like a pain in the arse, but after using a few times, it actually is very convenient, also, it doesn’t use up Hybrids server memory as the pictures are hosted off site. If using Photobucket, For the HybridZ forum, (and most other forums for that matter), just use the last tag line option under the pictures you store there which starts and ends in , just cut and paste that into the post and wa la.. FWIW, sometime this evening, I will build and post a quick tutorial with pics on how to use off site image hosting such as Photobucket…

Veritech.... Is this you? Gotta be...

Yes, yes and yes. It has been, is being, and will contiune to be done, square port headers on round port heads. it has been covered here on HybridZ since HybridZ became forum.

John, Is there a chance that you could just embed the pics into your posts instead of just posting links to them? TIA, Paul

Is there any way you can insert the pics into your posts instead of just links? Also, none of those links worked. Thank you for sharing all this cool Datsun info, Paul

Here’s my $.02 Everything I’ve heard and read confirms the LM-1 is the most consistent, accurate, lighting quick response wideband tuning aid, especially for the money. We are using the LM-1 and the Innovate RPM converter for all of our tuning and data logging. Personally, I struggled a little bit with the Logworks data logging software, (used it on the Race car for dialing in the MSnS-EDIS) but Ron Tyler has been able to use it quite easily and whenever the discussion comes up about the LM-1, he has said nothing but praise for its capabilities, especially the data logging. I place a lot of value in the LM-1s lightning quick response time, even the super subtle misfires registered with the LM-1 right as it happened. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php

Uh, That there is some very bad advice, (unless you were meaning something else that you didn’t specify in your post). Controlling engine idle speed by means of altering injector pulse width on gasoiline engines is totally and completely the WRONG approach and should never be an option, EVER! There are so many other band-aid ways around getting an acceptable idle speed. In 99% of all gasoline EFI applications, Idle speed is controlled by adjusting the amount AIR the engine is breathing at idle by some form of air valve. Then injector pulse widths are altered/adjusted to obtain the desired Air Fuel Ratio ONLY. Any and all adjustments to the pulse width of the fuel injectors should ONLY be done to modify the air fuel ratio to a desired point. NEVER use injector pulse widths to control RPM. Sorry for being so harsh. It is this sort of misinformation that a newbie not knowing any better, might implement and worst case, end up with extensive and expensive damage to his/here engine. Most likely they’ll just end up with fouled plugs and major drivability issues due to the fouled plugs and they wont know how to diagnose the casue, yet rectify it.

Cool. Thanks for the heads up. I'll give this a shot... Okie dokie.. Well I registered, that went well, finally found the HybridZ.org group, said there were 17 members, tried to join that group and all I got was a message saying "We're sorry, this group isn't avaiblale right now. Please try again later." Most likely because there is too much TORQUE in that group..

Rusch Motorsports also sells steel and brass core plugs, in complete sets for the Datsun L-series, (Pioneer brand). We feel that the core plugs we sell are at least equivalent to or better in quality and function to the OE and other aftermarket “freeze” plugs. As such, we do not warranty the freeze/core/expansion plugs or ANY engine part or parts that may suffer a crack or breakage from the result of water freezing in the engine. For those of you that have been keeping your finger on the pulse of the FREEZE plug design and evolution, please be aware that the freeze plug industry has been intently working, since the dawn of casting metals, on a full functioning FREEZE plug that will releave the freezing pressures within the engine block, cylinder head, AND the plenum of L-28 EFI manifolds, with 100% assurance of no cracks or breakages. (Hey Tony. The freeze plug in the end of the L-28 EFI intake plenum is for protecting the manifold against cracking during carburetor icing). Until the Freeze plug industry does make that breakthrough, (and believe you me, we will be the first to let you all know), anyone smart enough to still trust the current-modern, or even the original old school freeze plugs, to protect their engines from freeze breaks obviously knows that all those broken blocks and heads that come into the machine shops all across the country, (especially in the northern portion of the states and more often between November and March, for some odd reason) are cracked and broken due to stuck fast idle cams on the EFI system, not routinely rotating the spark plugs, not enough O-2 sensor fluid, excess throttle shaft chatter, clogged idle jets in the fuel injectors, and because the pistons reciprocated. Like duh... . So if anyone calls up or posts Rusch Motorsports asking for freeze plugs, we will politely remind them that until the freeze plug industry gets the freeze plug design working with 100% reliability, we strongly recommend the use of core plugs AND some form of antifreeze for winterizing their engines. Even with today’s antifreeze prices, this route is by far the least costly route to winterize your vehicles engine, at least till the freeze plug industry is able to design a truly functioning freeze plug… It has been brought up that in the parts catalogs at certain parts stores, these plugs are listed as freeze plugs. Well, I feel it is truly one of two reasons. Which one do you subscribe to?... 1) They are anticipating the freeze plug industries big break through in making them 100% functionally reliable?… 2) It has to do with whole myth in the first place. (as covered in depth much earlier in this thread). The term “freeze plug” picked up momentum amongst the shade tree and not so mechanically inclined public, and the guys you find behind the parts counter fall into that same category, (if they were more mechanically inclined, you would find them on the other end of a wrench instead of selling freeze plugs). Being as this improper term is still being thrown around as educated fact, (evidenced by the mere presence of this thread), and the not so mechanically inclined general public still “says” freeze plug, the catalog publishers knowing full well the correct terminology, still print it in the format that parts guys like John Q. Public can easily look up, to sell across the counter?… A BRAAP satire...