BRAAP

I would even go for banning their lazy arses, but that really wouldn't go over to well.

Did you mean beat the lazy posters we are crying about or beat on us Obsessive-Compulsives that are crying about lazy posters?

Turning into my favorite non tech thread yet! I’ll be the first to admit, I suck at the grammar, . I do make an effort to post legibly, clearly, and clarify anything that could be confusing to others, making an effort to capitalize, punctuate, (I do over use the triple dot...), I’m sure my posts would barely pass middle school. When I see someone post a question with NO effort in punctuation, capitalization, spelling, and especially when they use that immature IM crap, and they are expecting a thorough professional answer, the hair on the back of my neck stands straight up and it’s all I can do not to just tear into them, both shift keys a blazing…

A leak down test will narrow down if it intake valve, exhaust valve, or rings/piston.. Easier than pulling the head.

Got around to cutting the valve seats and surfacing the heads today. Machine work is now done. 4 angles on the seats, (technically 5, but the chamber cutter only left its radius, not the flat, so I’m not counting it), performed just a tad more hand blending after using the chamber cutter. Intake seats are .040” wide, exhaust seats are .060” wide. Both intake and exhaust valve also have a 30 degree back cut. During surfacing, I only took .004” off each head, they both cleaned up 100% in .003”. (A huge thank you to my wife for not overheating the engine over the past 160,xxx miles). Next step is to CC the chambers, setup the valve train, final clean, assembly, then attach the heads to the short block. Intake and exhaust seats just after the first cut, 3 angles, (30, 45 and 60 degrees). The final 2 angles are added with separate cutters. Ready to be removed from the mill after being surfaced; Machine work done, awaiting final clean;

DATSUN!!!! Inline 6 or V6?

2zowner, You need to understand a couple things. 1) We do not spoon feed information on this forum! If one can get the info themselves through readily available resources, that person is expected to do so. In this case, pertinent contact info was already provided! 2) Pushing rule #13 a bit close... Good luck with your tranny deal. Kevin is a good guy to deal with.

Ah.. gotchya..

So you plumbed the PCV valve itself, (the breather tube for the engine block), to a point in front of the throttle body instead of behind it where it would see vacuum? Why bother? I'll elaborate... 1) Just put a filter element on the block vent tube, serves the same purpose and gets rid of that unnecessary hose/plumbing to the cold air intake and no oily blow by being pumped through the AFM, and the rest of your intake tract! Ever notice the thick slimy oil residue on the inside of an intake manifold? That is how the rest of your intake tract, AFM, Turbo, inter-cooler if using one, will look after sometime with your crank case breathing into your cold air intake. 2) The PCV valve itself is a spring loaded valve designed for a vacuum atmosphere, i.e. intake manifold. The only portion of the intake system that experiences the vacuum a PCV valve is designed for is the air space between the throttle body butterfly and the intake valves. If plumbing your cranks case breather anywhere else, the PCV valve itself is not functioning as designed. 3) When using the PCV as it was designed, if you are concerned about the engine ingesting “false” or “un-metered” air, the OE PCV/vacuum plumbing eliminates that by allowing fresh filtered air from “behind” the AFM to be drawn in to the valve cover, (this air is metered by the AFM), and as it passes through the crank case is drawn into the bottom of the intake manifold through the calibrated PCV valve and burned in the combustion chambers. That air was measured by the AFM and the appropriate amount of fuel compensation is made by the ECU. Hope that helps

Yes, There is “just” enough material in the wall thickness of the plenum floor that you can drill and tap the bottom of the plenum to relocate the PCV valve to the same location as it is on the Turbo manifold. If you have the option to build up that region where you want to locate the PCV valve by welding it, by all means do so. Here is one of my custom N-42 intakes that I drilled and tapped the bottom of the plenum for vacuum ports, (fuel pressure regulator, Brake booster, MAP signal for MS, etc). This was on my Race car for short period and now running on another HBZ members boosted L28.

Oohhh..... another tough one... Both were excellent drivers, Nigel was a bit more conservative. Going with Ayrton on that one. He was the only one gutsy enough to drive those cars as hard as he did. Late '80's F-1 or late '80's IMSA GTP?

:lmao: I just spit my morning coffee across the counter and floor! :lmao:

Some of of the mature racers that drove cars with drum brakes would know best, hopefully they see this and chime in...

I recall hearing about it in the '80's, I'm sure it was done well before then. I think most of the budget guys were just slotting their brake shoes with a hack saw blade giving built up gasses an escape path. Guys were doing that with their brake pads for the discs as well, a bubba approach to slotted rotors..

If you have driven any of the old cars that had 4 wheel drums, especially on a track, then drove a modern car with four wheel disc, you will recall the difference in consistency, feel, etc. Having rear drum and front disc is only part way there, the S-30 Z car. No way to put a % of improvement on rear disc conversion. Gains are consistency in braking, not only in just how the rear brakes corner after corner but also consistency in the balance front to rear, feel, ease of maintenance, etc.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1 I just couldn't resist...

Is upgrading to discs not an option?

It's alright. We know skib didn't choose green!

:lmao:

Had big plans today to get the heads finished, assembled and possibly installed on the short block! Between running my wife’s daily driver into town for new tires and changing the oil in it, then goofing off online, ordering a pilot bearing, etc, I didn’t quite meet my goal though did get a little done. All the treaded holes are now chamfered and chased the threads, removed the broken exhaust bolt and heli-coiled that hole. Tomorrow, I hope to get the machine work done, (cut the seats, deck the heads), as well as final cleaning and assembly. For those interested, here are all the thread sizes for the various threaded holes in the LSx cylinder heads. Spark plug 14x1.25mm Coolant temp port 12x1.5mm Ancillary/accy holes 10x1.5mm Exhaust manifold 8x1.25 Rocker arm mounting bosses 8x1.25mm Intake manifold 6x1.0mm Valve cover hold down 6x1.0mm Steam tube hold down 6x1.0mm Till the next update…

Seriously? For you guys that have questions about this deal, here’s a thought. Why not try contacting him and asking him directly? His contact info is in the very first post of this thread that you should’ve read already if you are at all interested in this deal! One more question that can be easily answered by a phone call to the source, and this thread gets shedded and a nice “custom” user title for the person who asked it!

Rob, Not really games, but probably just about as productive?! I haven't been able to get to the rick shaw all week last week or this week! You interested in coming out to tinker on it?