BRAAP

Hmmm... Parting an out an E36 M3 and wanting a more powerful 240-Z... Hmmm... Is the engine in the M3 in good condition and available? I understand the BMW S50 and S52 6 cylinder will fit in the engine bay of the Z car... and if 240 N/A HP is not enough to satisfy, I also understand those BMW S series 6 cylinder engine’s respond VERY well to small and moderate levels of boost. Click ME for an S52 powered 260-Z project...

"Lehts troi this,... aegain.." :lmao:

1) Scale in that weighing is NEW, was calibrated new, i.e. IS accurate! hearsay of what others "claim" regarding LS1 weights?!?! Phewy! I put absolutely NO faith in hearsay weight claims! 2) The weight I posted for the complete LS engine was an LM7 not an LS1. The LM7 is the 5.3L iron block variant in the LSx family, the Aluminum block LS1, LS2, LS6, etc, comparably outfitted will be approx 50-60 lbs lighter, so 420 lbs for an LS1, LS2, LS6, (aluminum block LSx), falls right in line with our weighings. 3) A list of the items REMOVED from that engine for those weights was also quoted, labeled as "MINUS", meaning not there, removed, missing from..." such as P/S, A/C, etc. As Gollum mentioned, LSx T-56’s go for well under $2000. You can regularly find them for $1500 in excellent condition. Picked up my LSx low mile T-56 out of an ’01 WS6, with LS6 flywheel and clutch (less than 500 miles on the clutch and flywheel), for $1650!

You are correct, bronze guides have their place. As a professional engine builder/machinist myself, (1 fast z is as well), when I built this, Twin Turbo, water to air intercooled, MPFI, 540 CID Big Block Chevy for this world record holing endurance Jet boat, (produced 1168 HP on the dyno at sunset Engine development in the picture below), we used not only bronze guides, but beryllium copper seats! Good place those exotic materials, but because it works in this extreme application doesn’t necessarily mean it works in all. I also use mostly iron guides in my L-6 cylinder head builds.

Power to weight ratio and a good balance front to rear of that weight, very important for sports car. The Z car is an excellent platform for those reasons. I do want to point out something regarding the SR20DET vs the other options. Just because the SR20DET has have the cylinders of a V-8 doesn't mean it will weigh half as much. What you'll find is the SR20DET isn't going to reduce the overall weight of the car by significant amount vs the L-6. Approx the same as going from an empty of gas to a full tank, little less than 100 lbs. Even the Small block Chevy conversion can lighter than the L-6 with strategic aluminum bits. I’m not trying to push the V-8 into your car, just trying to dispel some what appears to be some misconceptions regarding various swaps, such as the V-8. The V-8 in the Z car is as much of mid engine cars the four cylinder as they are approx the same length, beauty of the V-8 is its CG is lower than the twin cam 4 cylinder so any weight penalty a V-8 carries, it carries it lower, much lower! Also, the Z car is already 50-50 weight distribution. My first V-8 Z was a small block Chevy, car gained 125 lbs, 50 on the nose 75 on the rear! Moving the CG rearward, 49-51 weight distribution. This was my daily driver and autocross car, I did not notice the weight gain at all, (again, like going from empty tank of gas to a full tank), but I did notice twice the torque and HP output from twice the displacement! Here is that V-8 Z. Note the front the of the engine is at the center line of the front wheels! Could have gone back further in the car if I really wanted it. The car turned corners with authority, (took top time of day at local autocross with 100+ entrants), and still ran a 12.3 @ 113 MPH on garbage 195 60 HR 14” all season tires!

I love how displacement bolsters power out side of boost... then just continues to build with boost.

Brake booster diaphragm is busted, causing a huge vacuum leak when the brakes are being applied. If I'm right, what do I win?

Ladies and Germs, I was going to post this in the thread I originally found this info in, but for some reason, can’t find it any more. For giggles, I ordered a pair of these exhaust header flanges, not because I will be using them, (I will be using brand headers for my swap), but because I wanted to have them on hand and for a mere $22 ea. retail, I couldn’t pass it up. These are advertised as 3/8” thick steel flanges. They arrived today and after unboxing they seemed MUCH thicker than 3/8, and they are! I measured them at exactly .458”, only .042” from an actual 1/2”! These are stamped, not cut, all ledges are nice and smooth, contours are round, not jagged. Overall a very nice piece, especially for the price! Link to; Superior Chevrolet, LSx header flange

Welcome to HybridZ. I don't understand how the unibody is somewhat limited? If a V-8 is a power plant that you may be interested in, something other than the norm so as not to follow the “overdone” approach, take your pick of V-8 and put it back on your list. Infiniti V-8, Toyota V-8, modern or vintage Dodge V-8, Flat head V-8, Indy car V-8, etc... I would hate to see you ban the V-8 from your list of power plants if the reason is one of those mythical reasons such as “unibody cars have no room" or "a V-8 will wad up the car like a pretzel due to the torque”! Space wise, the Z has a very large engine bays. Big blocks, V-12’s and Viper V-10 have been installed in these cars. Strength wise? On this forum there are big block Chevy’s, my father built a Big Block Mopar 440 Z, the JnJ brothers run a dedicated 8 second drag car with the stock Datsun front and rear suspension, (of course some tube framing), Guys with Turbocharged 6 cylinders running low 8's in the 1/4 mile and the unibody has not complained. In fact, I cant recall one instance where the unibody has complained, twisted, deformed, etc from the engine. Tight suspension and grippy tires and extreme lateral G loads in road racing, now those forces are hard on the unibody. Here are a few examples… Courtesy of jhalsey Courtesy of dot Courtesy Dat260 Courtesy of JnJ

As Rags mentioned, if you provide pics of those items, that would help a lot. You'll have to remove the valve cover to see the fuel pump eccentric. Also be sure the spacer is between the pump and the head itself. Keep us posted...

L-28, Dual 2", glass packs!

Derek, If memory serves, the '78 did away with the switch which also acts as the "T" for the front brakes, (splits the front circuit into Frt-left and Frt-right), going to reservoir caps with "floats" that indicate with the same "BRAKE" light, low brake fluid! Then used and actual "T" as you pictured for the split to left and right front brakes. Sorry about the confusion. Here is the switch we are reffering to which your car most likely does not have. This is a '75 car; With that, I'm more inclined to think either you didn't get the Master bench bled correctly there fore no fluid moving to the rear or the master cylinder may have defect internally, i.e. seal in backwards, torn, etc. Your description of how the brake pedal moves/feels is weird. Also, lets try to keep the booster discussions out of this for now. One problem at a time. The brakes will still function 100% without the brake booster, (what you will notice is elevated pedal pressures, i.e. travel and feel will still be the same!) so just disconnect the vacuum line and be sure to remove the one-way check valve that is in that vacuum line as well. With the engine off, the pedal should still not go to the floor and the reaction disk/booster would not cause that even if either was having a problem, especially if the engine is not running and booster is disconnected, check valve removed, i.e. no vacuum present. In short, deal with only one issue at a time, once that is resolved, then deal with a possible booster issue. If the Master cylinder is an issue, there is no way you can effectively diagnose a booster issue as the pedal travel and feel most likely wont be right any way! Again, ignore the booster till the master cylinder is sorted out.

Derek, I agree with John. Could very well be the pressure difference switch over-traveled/hyperextended, therefore blocking off fluid movement to the rear brake circuit. The pressure switch is one of those items, that in my opinion for any HybridZ is useless and serves no real function. If you stop to think about it for a minute, what is its purpose? Its purpose is to give the driver a visual indication on the dash, (illuminating the BRAKE light) that there is an improper pressure balance between the front and rear brakes, 99% of the time due to leak in either the front or rear brake circuit or the introduction of air into the system for some reason, such pads worn out, i.e. low brake fluid. This switch is wonderful for the secretary who has no car knowledge whatsoever, letting her know there is a problem with her brakes before it becomes a serious safety issue. Now being HybridZ guys, not only are we savvy with how and why the different systems of our cars function, we are also quite intimate with our cars. We know when something is even slightly amiss with our car. We can feel, hear, see, smell “any” change out of the norm, as such we are generally on top of these issues before they become real safety issues. Where am I going with this? Our brakes! We can FEEL when our brakes are having an issue such as air in the system, leak, etc, way before that pressure switch gives us that visual indication on the dash with the bright red “BRAKE" light illuminated! Derek, by your post here, you are obviously quite in touch with brake pedal feel, travel, etc, so I suggest to just delete that switch or remove the inner piston from it being sure to completely plug/seal off the center port where the piston used-to reside to keep the front and rear brake circuits from communicating with each other, start over with your bleeding. Most of the time, gravity bleed works quite well. Hope that helps, Paul

We like it when they play well with others, unlike that RTz character..

We have revival! Last post in this thread was only a mere 8 years ago, and it's alive today! Cool...

What is up with Fed-Ex and delivering to wrong addresses? Items I am waiting on to be delivered from Fed-Ex end up getting delivered to other people, in one instance the package was delivered in a completely different state even though my address was on the outside! How does THAT happen?!?!? UPS NEVER has done that once and I've used UPS far more often! And the winner is?.... Brown Santa. Little brown people in big brown trucks delivering little brown boxes to happy boys girls everywhere...

Ok, how's that..

Shameless plug... I have a boostable SBC 350 for sale with JTR mounts in the link below, many parts are brand new never installed, including the aluminum heads, Scat crank and rods, engine is fully machined, ARP hardware throughout, unassembled, ready for assembly, capable of well over 600 HP, depending on your boost... for only $3500 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150422 The SBC, even boosted, will be easier to get in the car, lighter weight, but wont have the WOW factor the V-10 does.

DOH! Totally missed that! ...Goes in the shed right?

So does this mean you are building it? As mentioned, the performance potential of the Ford V-10 is there at 6.8L, (413 CID), with some massaging, and some of the trucks I have heard have an incredible exotic sports car sound to the exhaust note. Here's a couple of examples;

"I only have the stage 7 chip" "You should probably walk away now before I rip 6 inline cylinders of boost through your ......."

Stock, isn't a real powerhouse especially for its size, weight, and number of cylinders, (really anemic for its displacement at 310 HP), HUGE by large external dimensions,... Those are just a couple reasons I can think of why it has not been done. About the only reason I can see for doing this swap is soley to fill the need to build "a different" hybrid-Z! For that reason, I say

YES!!!! Looking forward to seeing/hearing it run once tuned!