BRAAP

Got my lights finally. I’ll spare you the details, (Umnitza, nuff said!) I’m just glad I got my lights. Side fender and front corner are smoked clear with stealth bulbs. Taillights are smoked with stealth bulbs, headlights are Euro Ellipsoids with glass lenses, HID low beams with 5K bulbs, protective film on the glass, 50w ballasts. I did NOT get the angel eyes. Angel eyes have become so rice now… I personally feel the angle eyes only belong on the 5 series as delivered OE. These Euro lights do have the city lights, which I may install bulbs in, not sure yet. Any how, the lights should help clean up the car visually be getting rid of the amber lenses and the HID’s should improve nighttime forward vision.

Got my lights finally. I’ll spare you the details, I’m just glad I got my lights. Side fender and front corner are smoked clear with stealth bulbs, (stealth bulbs installed in the pic). Taillights are smoked with stealth bulbs, (Sorry, orange bulb is in this pic,), headlights are Euro Ellipsoids with glass lenses, HID low beams with 50w ballasts, 5K bulbs, protective film on the glass. I did NOT get the angel eyes. Angel eyes look fantastic on the 5 series but so many copy cats have over done them on so many other cars... These Euro lights do have the city lights, which I may install bulbs in. Any how, the lights should help clean up the car visually in getting rid of the amber lenses and the HID’s should improve nighttime forward vision.

Hoov, first post, he said he has an LT1, as such, NO dizzy! It's opti-spark behind the water pump..

Sit down, and no squatter jokes.. (just more comfortable as you get older, unless you're out dooors... ) Peanut M&M's or Almond M&M's?

So how many of you guys used to give swirlies to the gamer geeks in high school? Thank goodness I'm old enough to have missed the gamer era in high school otherwise that would've been me walking out of the boys room with an Ed Grimley hair doo...

Don't hide that sah-weeet shifter... TAG! You're it!

Finally got around to reading this thread. I have been putting it off knowing full well I’d get immersed in it, distracted from everything else vying for my time... I was right! VERY cool Bawb Dawg! Don’t let any of the naysayers or stone throwers get to you. Looks like you crossed some of the biggest hurdles of retrofitting a multi valve head to an L-series block, bore spacing being one. Coolant flow and cam drive can be difficult, but doable, oil feed should be as simple as an external feed from the block feeding a galley/s in the head! Found a couple pics, VERY nice looking heads… Regarding the cam drive, I totally see where one would want to keep the tension side of the chain as straight as possible, plenty of reasons why it should be. As 1 fast z mentioned, the forces are crazy on the tension side. In looking at Mercedes approach to altering the path of the timing chain on the tension side, they utilized a nice curved slide which absorbs the thrust loads over a large area. If the OE Mercedes chain slides can be made to fit, it seems like the preferred method of altering the chain path on the tension side as it is proven in hundreds of thousands of street miles. Even if it consumable, a part that needs regular replacement, it seems worth it in the long run. As an alternative, using a stationary idler gear, (in roller bearings or oil pressure fed plain bearing), seems like it would have less over all friction, though in using an idler gear in that capacity, if it is able to take the loads imposed on the tension side, wouldn’t the chain run much hotter and wear faster being in tension as it traverses the tighter radius of the roller vs the slide? It would be interesting to know what modifications the big racing teams perform to the M104 cam drive if any?... Found these shots of the Mercedes chain slides;

Coming together quite nicely Aaron..

Pickles! BLT or Rueben?

Grand national. Green Grapes or Purple Grapes?

Torque, EVERYWHERE! LS6 or LS2?

Single plane crank V-8! YEAH!

This update is not real big, just taking care of a few incidentals, getting ready for mounts. After taking a peek around the trans while stuffed in the car, made note of all the little bosses and protrusions that pose clearance issues or could pose clearance issues. Removed the engine and trans from the car, carved off those nubs, bosses, protrusions, blended them in. Removed the CAGS, (Skip Shift solenoid) from the trans, tapped as deep as my ½” x14 NPT tap would go, then with a metric 13mm plug from a Datsun Z car cylinder head, (thread pitch is perfect match, just slightly smaller diameter), plugged the CAGS hole. The reverse switch could be a clearance issue depending on how far offset the engine is set. +1" to the passenger side, leave approx. 1" between the switch and the tunnel! I may relocate it to the reverse lock out location, will have to play with that a-bit first. Read on… Removed the reverse lock out solenoid only to find it had been gutted by a previous owner! My guess is they either thought it was the CAGS solenoid or was having troubles with it. At any rate, I either need to get another reverse lock out actuator or using the reverse light switch, add some spring tension to it, fab/machine a mount for it to to fit in the T-56 Reverse lock out pocket. The added spring tension the reverse switch would add should reduce the tendency to hit Reverse when aggressively grabbing 5th. That' the theory any how... Like the ZF BMW 5 speed, to engage reverse require a LOT of effort to overcome the added spring tension, (keeps from inadvertently grabbing reverse), using that same concept for the T-56. If I am able to make that happen, I wont need skip shift actuator and that will allow the trans to sit closer to the passenger side of the car without interfering with the trans tunnel. Today spent a couple hours porting my 5.3 cylinder heads, 706 castings. Being as this is my interim LSx and just a 5.3, I didn’t go crazy just a little valve unshrouding, removed the roof of the exhaust port making them “D” ports, and blended the seats into the ports for a smoother transition in that region, (removed the sharp edge/ridge). In the next couple days, time permitting, I will cut the valve seats with 4 or 5 angles, surface the heads and assemble them. Valves have already been faced, added a 30 degree back cut to the exhaust, (intakes already have a 30 degree back-cut from GM). Once the heads are done, will install them back on the short block along with the 2000 Vette cam, (dur @ .050” 198/209 Vlv Lft.500”/.500”, 115.5 deg LSA) LS6 yellow springs, LS6 take out roller lifters, all new gaskets, ported oil pump, new water pump etc. Engine will be ready for mounts in approx 3-4 weeks. Pics of this weeks progress. Some of the bosses removed; CAGS plug; Head porting;

WHAT?! Were out of Coffee? DANG! Better go rebuild the Turbines, AGAIN!!

Got it, thanks.

Hoov, Does your '73 tach have the same guts as the 260-280-Z tach? I recall the 240 tachs being different in that they are triggered off the positive post of the coil vs the later tachs which are triggered from the negative post of the coil?... Just curious.

For VR sensor clocking reference, that picture of my crank trigger above is with the #1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke, VR sensor, exactly 6 teeth counterclockwise of the missing tooth. With the SAW signal disconnected, that should be an ignition timing of 10 degrees BTDC regardless of what setting you have set in MS and regardless of what RPM the engine is running at, (puts EDIS in limp home mode, 10 degrees BTDC!) If you unplug the the jumper plug connector that is integral in the EDIS wring harness, (if you do not have that plug, just disconnect your SAW wire to achieve same result.), what is the ignition timing then? It should be 10 degrees BTDC indicating the trigger wheel to VR sensor clocking is correct! 1) If after disconnecting your SAW signal the ignition timing is a solid 10 degrees BTDC then your issues are in your MS settings. 2) If it is still too far retarded, then your VR sensor to trigger wheel clocking is off. It is off by the number of degrees it would take to get the timing light to register 10 degrees BTDC. Looking over your MS files, most of which I do not understand, (different version of MS-nSe?), what I do recall is that when using EDIS and selecting EDIS in the menus, MS didn't allow me access to any of the dwell settings etc, (grayed out, could not input any settings for dwell). Also, I seem to recall that EDIS prefers the falling edge, not the rising edge, but I could wrong there. Matt?... For what its worth, here were my MS settings for EDIS-6 that worked on my set up;

Moral is; If one wants to help, great. Everyone wants to be able to help and everyone appreciates help! But to just offer up willy nilly advice because it "sounds" like the right thing, especially advice that can and will dramatically affect that persons bank account if that person buys into the willy nilly advice given?! The person asking the question isn’t wanting a bunch of hypothetical possibilities from a bunch of bench-racers that "want" to help, he is digging for sound advice! His actions towards his dilemma will be based on the advice given, as such, KNOW before offering advice!

For some reason I am getting this urge to sit down on the couch in a snuggy with a full box Kleenex, eating an entire chocolate cake while watching Oprah!

Call him. He will fill you in all the details, expectations, payment, etc.

Maxwell, just killed the thread!?!?! He didn't leave a "this or that" question... Race course; Pavement or concrete?

Nice parking space Rob...

And I'm allowing this thread to continue, why? Just kidding. I just sent you a PM with some EDIS Tech info from our EDIS test bench. Not sure if it is info you need or not?... Hope it helps, Paul

Clive, So you drove RAGS Datsun to the Z car club meeting?!?! Nice Minuma Joe.

It will fine. Oil will flow through the cam and the spray bar, redundant cam lobe oiling! You can also swap the cam towers to eliminate the spray bar, just be sure to number the towers and keep them in the same position when you reinstall them.