BRAAP

:lmao: Oh yeah baby! LOVE IT! Challenger earned a "get out of jail free" card for that one!

Ohhh.. Ahhh.. Wrinkle black valve covers… Sorry there isn’t much more than that right now… I’ve been asked to “slow down”! Problem with that is if I go any slower I’ll stall! I’ve got approx 2-3 more weeks of head scratching, gives my help a little more time.

I LOVE the Rule TAG! One of my favorite games. Lots of Newbs seem to like the game as well...

You veteran members should know better! Shame on you! SHIFT Nazi, hath sprecken!

Luv you man...

Ooops. Sorry skib. I had to show Cary how do it...

Chyeah, tell me about it?! Searching is SO over rated...

Have you looked at any of the EDIS threads here in the Mega Squirt forum? The stickies at top of the Mega Squirt section? In particular read the V3 EDIS thread... http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=88

And you're not getting the factory/dealer warranty that NEW 280-ZX would've came with, probably not valid.. None the less, it is the #1 black gold car, Gorgeous car, excellent condition. I would be concerned with a car that has sat for sooo long, engine could be in worse shape than one with 200,000 miles of the same vintage. Rubber components such hoses, seals etc are not necessarily like new and with fuel and other fluid sitting stagnant in them for sooo long. Oil tends separate when it sits, acid tend to settle. Seen more than a few oil pans that have had holes eaten in the from the inside out from oil that separated due to sitting for years. Also very hard on cranks, bearings, etc. Grease also doesn't like just sit, think ball joints, U-joints etc... For car that would never ever start up or drive, just to look at and be pushed on an off the trailer for shows, pretty cool! For a car that might be driven, hmmm... $35,000 entry fee and $10k-$20k in replacing all those unusable new parts with usable new parts... Probably still a good deal for the right enthusiast. Again, gorgeous car, nice to see such an example so well cared for, still in as new condition.

Ahem... I hear Tony's return flight is destined for a 1-2 week lay over at KPDX... How convenient... Tony, you like burger an beer right?

Happiness is; Torqueing the last bolt on your LSx long block! I dub this mild 5.3 the LS-7/8ths. (just shy of an LS1). Found a good spot for the 16 valve emblem, though probably will end up putting it under the hood somewhere. Valve covers will be wrinkle black!

All is well. Forward valley drain...

Super Dan IS Dwight!

That's COOL! Would love to see more pics... From rail, the country side seems so much more raw, unmolested vs. traveling by road. Enjoy the drive..

Not a broken valve, but a burnt valve. For one reason or another the exhaust valve was not able to transfer its heat into the valve seat, (typical causes are chunk of carbon on valve seat, valve lash too tight, excessively lean combustion) which will act as blow torch across the valve head. Looks like knicks, splits, or chunks missing but really it was torched away. The exhaust valves are not brittle in that they will break, chip or shatter. They will however bend and deform, not chip or break. You will want to have that seat ground/cut at the very least. Should have the entire head overhauled.

My pressure bleeder is similar, I use my bubba-remote-regulator apparatus. I use a thread-in Schrader valve in an old M/A cap, (gotta be careful most have vent hole i the perimeter of the rubber seal that will allow the fluid to pump out). I typically keep it between 7-8 PSI. As jt1 said, any more than 15-20 is a huge paint eating mess looking for an engine bay to take place in. When I did the Z-32, It was a little more elaborate. Pressurizing a gallon container filled 1/2-3/4 full of brake fluid that fed the Z-32 M/C. Modified an extra M/C cap to connect the gallon reservoir to the M/C reservoir. Set it at 7 PSI, go to each wheel and let it bleed... For the Z-32, the ABS actuator is behind the passenger seat in the cabin, above the rear suspension. The ABS has its own bleeder valves which need to be bled as well. Front brake lines ran from the M/C to behind the a passenger seat to the ABS, then 2 separate lines back up front to each wheel! LOTS of fluid in a Z-32! Pressure bleeding is the only way to fly with a car like that.

Chyea right... ...Cause we go through the trouble of building 482 WHP and 518 lbs of torque at the wheels just to lolligad back and forth to the grocery store..

That is SAH-WEET! With how well the BMW inline 6 cylinder engines respond to boost, I'm surprised to see the RB in there, none the less, very cool with lots of wow factor! I like that color combo.

Derek, Sorry if I am confusing the process. Sounds like you are on the right track. I don't have a magic bullet technique to bleeding brakes, for reasons described below, though have experienced enough of the "air in the system crap" over the years of bleeding the brakes by gravity, pump and hold, etc, that I prefer to just use pressure bleeder, (I built my own for my various cars). Tangential rant... The whole concept of bleeding brakes the way we have been doing it is backwards to me any how. Air wants to rise/float in a liquid, yet we are trying to force it down! In general aviation, brake systems are bled, starting out with an empty system, pressure feeding fluid from the caliper "up" to the M/C, (each wheel cylinder has its own M/C/reservoir), allowing the air to rise, float, and when the fluid gets to the M/C all the air is gone! In a car, if there were bleed nipples at the "T"'s, you could achieve similar results, or have a way to capture the excess fluid as you switch from one wheel to the next as it over fills the reservoir.

If they are good overall condition, that sounds like a fair price to me...

Those bleeders are used for "bench bleeding" or "bleeding the M/C" as mentioned on the first page, post 3 and 4. Always bleed the M/C at those bleeders first, you'll ant to go back and forth between them a couple times, then continue on to the wheels. Yes, just use tube to have those bleeders recirc the fluid back to the reservoir. Be sure to do this with the new M/C.

You don't really need leak down tester for this, just some way to get pressurized air into that cylinder, (Leak down testers due just that, requiring an air compressor to work.) A leak down tester is pushing air into the cylinder, so wherever the leak is, you'll hear it! Just be sure the cylinder you are testing is at TDC of the compression stroke. With the valve cover off, the cam lobes for that cylinder will be pointed mostly up, at the same amount, just opposite each other. Now, with the leak down tester pumping air in the cylinder, put your ear to the following places. Where the issue resides is where the air will be leaking from. You'll hear the distinct HISSS of air escaping. 1) Intake/air filter. 2) Exhaust pipe. 3) Radiator, (remove the cap, maybe the sound of burbling or hissing). 4) Dipstick tube or oil filler hole. 5) Remove #2 and #4 spark plugs and listen in those cylinders. Blown head gasket would allow the air to escape into the cooling system, or sometimes to the adjacent cylinder even though the adjacent "could" still pressurize fine, (hence the removal of #2 and #4 spark bolts.) Hope that helps. Paul

I would even go for banning their lazy arses, but that really wouldn't go over to well.