BRAAP

Dan, My apologies. I totally forgot about your conversion when I linked help threads. Your build info is invaluable source of Z-32 V-8 conversion info.

I like it.

Using the Z32 5 speed could be a possibility with the starter on the tranny, only problem with that is the if the trans is left in the stock location, the LSx will NOT fit under the hood! Puts the TB through the hood, radiator in front of the radiator core supports and the engine really far forward in the engine bay. The VG30DE is a very short engine when measuring front to back! If you plan to move the trans back to situate the engine nicer in the car and under the hood, you will be cutting the firewall! At that, then its just MUCH easier to use the T-56 as it already bolts up, clutches and flywheels are readily available etc. Here are a couple LSx Z-32 swap threads that should help shed some light on your endeavor; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144469 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149027 Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.

Ronholio Tempertantrum! We just call him Grumpalopholis...

Where have you been? It's only the 51st state of the union. Just north of New York, west of New Mexico... Where Zeal is grown, duh!

It is was only 19 minutes...

Especially for an L6 with no mods to improving coolant flow through the head! Stick with 7.5:-8:1 for boost, and conservative timing and boost until you get a good handle on things. More than a handful of guys on this forum with their first turbo L-6 builds have replaced head-gasket after head-gasket after head-gasket fighting the detonation demons...

Sorry about that. I saw the title and... you know.. LSx engine have traditional coolant flow, block first, then the heads, and out. The LSx has both the in and out ports in the block, in is low (rectangular port) , out is top (round port), each bank of the engine is separate, merging/diverting in the water pump! GM LSx coolant flow path; Hope that helps, Paul

In, and then back out!

BOTH! KA24DE T or SR20DET? (Please keep it PG guys... Thanks)

Old school Datsun Turbo.. :lmao: When in doubt, just guess, someone will believe it!..

Omar, Do you own a shop manual? Even a Haynes manual for the car? If not, pick up one from your local auto parts store. This forum really isn't a substitute for a shop manual, more of a supplement. Those canisters are covered in the Haynes manual. That is a vacuum diaphragm, (your car has a few of them under the dash) standard on the Z cars that have "factory" A/C. The doors that direct the air flow under the dash in the factory A/C cars utilize vacuum control vs cable, (smoother feel on the controls, no stiff cables). Also, the factory A/C cars received a 4 speed blower fan vs the non A/C cars 3 speed fan.

Thick RED cable is battery positive, goes to the copper bolt/lug on the starter solenoid. Thick BLACK cable goes to the starter "mounting" bolt for a good close ground connection. Transmission bolt does the same thing but the starter mounting bolt is closer, electrically speaking. and is the preferred location for that reason, as described above. Then be sure you have a ground strap/wire from the battery negative post or the starter mount bolt that has the negative battery cable, that goes to the car body. That ensures the car “body” electrics is also properly grounded, (the motor mounts are poor electrical conductors).

I’m only going to touch on the basics. For a more in-depth and easy to understand read on this topic, this book is wonderful; http://www.themotorbookstore.com/supercharged.html Picture courtesy of Motorbooks intl. None of this applies to Turbo charged engines whatsoever! Due to the ever changing back pressure to intake boost pressure ratios, Turbo sizing, flow variations between the intake and exhaust tracts, etc, the ideal cam timing events for a Turbo are not as clear cut and easy to define. Turbo engines are a dynamically changing beast and very VERY difficult to narrow down optimal lobe profiles, (I feel only small handful of people in the world could come close, and even then, they will tell you its art, not a science). Back on topic, Blower cams! Generally speaking, optimal cam timing for Nitrous and supercharged engines are similar, though not identical. Reason for that is the combustion chamber is being force-fed more air and fuel via an outside means, yet that cylinder has to expel that extra burnt charge on its own, no help. Where they differ is during valve overlap, (blower is forcing more air and fuel in the chamber which exaggerates scavenging during valve overlap, N2O doesn’t do that so much.) On to cams for supercharged applications… Off-the-shelf cam profiles for supercharged applications “generally” have more aggressive exhaust lobe, (more duration and lift) vs the intake lobe. Supercharged cams also tend to have less valve overlap, i.e. wider lobe separation/LSA because the incoming charge is being forced in, and with a tight lobe separation, (lots of valve overlap), you end up over scavenging the cylinder. The blower is now pushing the spent gasses out the exhaust during valve overlap as well as fresh oxygen and fuel rich charge. Less overlap is required to achieve the same scavenging. I say these off-the-shelf cams “generally” have more duration and lift on the exhaust side because most people are bolting a supercharger on their N/A engine, even though some will drop the compression ratio which is a good thing when adding a blower, they generally leave the head alone, i.e. ports and valve sizing is optimized for N/A applications. As such, running a more aggressive exhaust lobe profile helps the engine rid of the extra spent gasses that were “blown” in by the supercharger. Lets throw a wrench into this mess and speculate that you had the head built specifically for a supercharger! A head built specifically for supercharging/N2O will have much more attention paid to the exhaust side of the head. Again, the engine is being force fed the air and fuel by the blower yet that same cylinder does not have any extra help to expel the extra spent charge, so biasing the exhaust valve and port helps allow that cylinder to expel the spent gasses. The exhaust side of the head would receive lots more porting, a larger valve, etc. Sometimes, depending on the application, a smaller intake valve to allow more room for an even larger exhaust valve. In the N/A applications it is common for the exhaust valve to be in the realm of 75% the size of the exhaust valve. In a supercharged/Nitrous application, depending on the boost levels, that intake to exhaust valve size ratio becomes much closer to 100%. 85-90% is quite common. How does this affect the valve timing events? In preparing the cylinder head specifically for a supercharger, now instead of just throwing more lift and duration at the exhaust valve like those "off-the-shelf" blower cams, the exhaust valve timing events can be more ideal, less of a compromise, allowing for even just a little more power for a given boost level. I’m not going to get any deeper into this as that information is out there, in print and on the net. Suffice to say, that camming for a supercharged application is much easier to get “right” than it is for a Turbocharged application. Though the efficiency the turbo affords is hard to beat.. Hope that helps shed some light on blower cams.

Awesome! Keep up the good work and keep the updates coming!

Ignition relay for what car? 280Z, 300ZX, 370-Z?

Skunk, There are rules against junk like you are posting. In that post alone you violated rules #2, #5, and #12. Careful with #13, it bites. First off, we don’t allow text short cuts. Examples being “ppl”, "Thanx” etc. Text short cuts come across as lazy and unprofessional. One of our many mottos around here is, "If someone wants professional information, ask in a professional manner". The members were trying to help you understand how this forum operates, you clearly are not accepting their help. Grieves my heart to see the team try only to no avail. It’s my turn to try and help clarify how this forum operates. If you read the rules that you agreed to, you already know what happens if you come back with the same attitude towards an Admin/Super Mod when given direction. Lets try this again. This forum has been around since early 2000. This forum has a pretty straightforward no nonsense approach to high-performance, especially as it applies to the Datsun/Nissan Z car. If something works, we share that experience. If something doesn’t we also share that experience, some of those “oops, that didn’t work” scenarios are quite humorous. We do hypothesize around here, but we make it clear that is what we are doing. If we are wrong, we admit it. If we don’t know an answer, we don’t post and allow those that do know to chime in and help out. We have no reason to beat one another up, we will help a fellow Z member in need, but we do expect that member to exercise the resources he has available to him and we’ll meet him and help the rest of the way, the best we can. Being as this high performance Z car forum has been around for several years, there are many very knowledgeable members here, each gifted in his/her area and willing to help out any time. Many of the members here have spent a good portion of their lives, 10-20, even 30 years tinkering on these cars learning what they know the hard way. We’ve learned from our successes as well as our mistakes and we share both freely for the rest of you to glean from and hopefully not make the same mistakes and take our experience to the next level. All it takes is a few minutes, hours, or maybe even days depending on the topic, to sit in a chair and glean information that took many of us several years, untold thousands of dollars, gallons of sweat and even some blood, to learn. Information that we share to all, for free, on the pages of this forum. To put this simply and quite bluntly, this membership is NOT going to spoon feed you the info that has already been posted, wasting their time holding your hand because you are too lazy to search on your own and wasting more band width repeating what has already been covered in the past. Please set aside the time and exercises the search feature, you'll be glad you did. There is an incredible amount of invaluable information regarding which cylinder heads most successful Turbo Z drivers prefer when turbo charging. This link should help get you started; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125970 Hope that helps clarify how this forum operates. Paul HBZ staff.

I don't recall how where the speed thing is tied in, probably wouldn't retain that info any how. Glad that helped. Take care, Paul

Pete, Wasn't directed towards you or any one person. Your input is always greatly appreciated. Title of the thread was the Rule #4 red flag waver.

1) HBZ Rule #4 fellas, there is NO best! 2) This thread will remain open, so long as it doesn’t turn into a debate with claims such as; “Head gasket Alpha sucks, gasket Charlie is the best!” My $.02 on this topic. I have seen time and time again where one guy has a head gasket fail and he immediately blames the gasket for being inadequate instead of rightfully thanking his lucky starts that the engine’s poor coolant circulation or HIS poor tuning failed the head gasket instead of the pistons, rings, rods, crank, etc! i.e. it was NOT the gasket that failed but detonation caused by something else that caused the failure of a totally adequate part! NO head gasket is designed to contain detonation, nor would you want any gasket to do such! Detonation is BAD, destructive, expensive, especially when it’s exaggerated with boost. Many members here are very much aware of this. I do believe the stamped multi layer head gaskets and or Block O-ringing has its place in highly boosted radical applications. Those gaskets and O-rings due a wonderful job of keeping the head sealed to the block under extreme conditions, great for race cars and even prudent from some street applications. For some ragged edge race builds you have to start out with these gaskets and/or O-ringed blocks, which is fine. But for pump gas street engines, especially a new untested build, (by "untested", I mean the first time that particular head and block has seen boost in its life, not just the copying someone else's that has "similar" castings), I would recommend running the cheapest head gasket that has the desired coolant passages until you have been able to run just a little beyond your desired boost level goal, under extreme conditions, without failure! If the cheap gasket fails, then fix the detonation issue and continue to use the cheap gaskets till you get it live! Who knows, you might just leave that cheapo gasket in cause "should" work any way! I would recommend stepping up to ARP head studs past 12-15 lbs of boost. If you jump straight into those “tougher” gaskets, rest assured if detonation is present, which happens quite often with the L-6 and many never know it till a part fails, the next weakest link in the chain of parts WILL fail! Pistons are much more expensive to replace and take longer to swap out than head gaskets! Just ask anyone that has to do so!

Allow me to add the fine print to this… Non donating members have small.... font for their user names and will retain whatever name they came in with. They will also get whatever user-title, (little sub title under your username), the staff wants to give them regardless if they like it or not! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130544 Being a donating member of HBZ is not just your user name in big BOLD font, but it also allows you to choose your user title under your username, work load pending, sometimes other changes upon request. Another benefit of being a HBZ donating member is that some of our vendors have even offered a discount for their products and services. In short, non donating members, fah-gett-about-it.

The dedicated BMW In Car Entertainment Forum! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=127 Dedicated E36 M3 In Car Entertainmetn forum, (what aplies here can be applied to other E36 cars, very specific to the E36, lots of speaker stuff...) http://m3forum.net/m3forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68 Dedicated E36 forum; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=14

The BCDD in its simplest description, is a port that bypasses the butterfly in the Throttle body and have valve in that port that allows air to by pass the closed Butterfly under certain conditions. In removing the BCDD for the throttle body, you will see two large ports in the throttle body itself, (GREEN in the picture below). Both of those need to be plugged. I prefer to tap them and use a large short bolt or pipe plug, then cover that in JB weld for a good seal. Do NOT use just JB weld only to fill the holes! The JB weld could come loose and get sucked into the engine, NOT good! The 2 smaller ports also need to be plugged, (MAGENTA in the picture below). Again, small screws and sealed. Or, after the large ports are plugged, a metal plate with gasket that covers the entire bottom of the Throttle body will seal off those two smaller ports. Another option is to use the later ZX Throttle body, though be aware the later ZX Throttle body is thinner where the boot attaches, as such, the S30 boot doesn’t fit real well! (The ID of ALL L28 Throttle bodies, Turbo, N/A early, late, etc are the same, the OD where the boot attaches is smaller, thinner wall, for the later NON BCDD Throttle bodies!) Hope this helps.