BRAAP

YES!!!! Looking forward to seeing/hearing it run once tuned!

Update with teaser shots… Bolted the T-56 up to the Vette LS1 mock up block, (T-56 is out of an ’01 WS6, I have been calling it an ’02, sorry), fitted my 5.3 heads and Vette LS1 intake with truck TB, then stabbed the whole she-bang into the M3! WOO HOO!!!! LSx and T-56 fits WAY nicer, cleaner, better in the BMW than it does the Nissan Z-32 chassis, (Z-32, aka ‘90-‘96 300-ZX)! The common two clearance issues stood out immediately, 1) ABS unit. 2) Steering shaft. ABS unit is a relocation project. More labor in actually doing it than there will be in head scratching figuring out what is the easiest most logical location. What makes the steering shaft such a hassle is that it is in the way of the primary exhaust runner of the number 7 exhaust port. My helper on this project, (currently undercover in stealth mode), has mentioned a couple ideas that could help clearance wise. I will be evaluating when I can revisit this project. For now, I have to pull away from this project till late next week. Our annual family/friends camp-in/cruise-in/Fly-in is this weekend, I have a HUGE list of to-do’s to get the property ready. I’ll leave you with these shots for now. Keep in mind, I merely stabbed the LSx in the car, I did NOT position it in any particular location, did not center it, did not adjust its height, nuttin. Literally just set it in the car and took pics. I’m sure its final mounted position will be shifted fore/aft, left/right, up/down from this initial mock up. C-5 LS1 mock up block and intake, truck TB, WS-6 T-56! Aka the mocker! Stabbed in the car! Hood clearance; Lowest realistic engine position; Shifter! Trans tunnel shots; The infamous steering shaft;

Regarding your cars issue, can you give us a more detailed description of what is taking place?

He's got another chance to post properly and give us more information so that we can better help him solve his cars drivability issue. evans280z, you've got to make an effort and we'll make the effort in return.

Now who woul'da done that? Don't anyone bother reading this thread from the beginning... Trust me!...

July 18th update! Finally got around to spending a little time on the car. Grabbed another stack of my handy dandy manilla wire tags and proceeded to finish tagging each and every engine related connector, hose, plug, wire, etc for the BMW engines new owner while removing the engine harness from the car itself. The original M3 engine is currently being installed in a Datsun 260-Z! I don’t know which is cooler, a Datsun Z car with an M3 engine, (possibly boosted!) or an M3 with an LSx? Race is on! Who'll be up and running first, the M powered Z, or LS powered M? For those interested, Ron started a build thread for the M3 powered Z car… Beauty of that conversion is it is taking place in my shop next to my M3, so I get to drive the Z car once its up and running! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150505 Back on topic, LSx powered M car.. After removing the engine harness, cleaning up a few other straggler wires, I removed the X-member, rack-&-pinion, then 3 cans of GUNK brand Foamy-Engine-Degreaser later, the engine bay, X-member, rack, etc is ... well... at least not grimy any more! Loosely bolted in the X-member and rack, ready for initial mock up of the Lsx. Tossed around the idea of painting the engine bay a smoke gray as I have done in a few other V-8 conversions, (V-8 powered Datsun Z cars), the thought of completely gutting the engine bay including disconnecting the A/C system was not too appealing, and being as this is a daily driver and the car has 192,xxx miles on it, decided against that and to press on with the conversion. OE black is just fine! Next on the agenda is trace out the umbilical wires between the engine and car. Need to know which ones I will use with the LSx so the BMW electrics will be happy and also for the S-52’s new owner being as he has the other end of that 3 plug umbilical and I’m sure the Factory BMW ECM will want a few bits of that information to keep from running in "limp home" mode. I heard a rumor that BMW made the car electrical wiring a bit more invasive/integrated in with the EFI wiring… Soon to find out by how much… The S52 engine harness… It’s not really as menacing as it looks… Engine-to-car Umbilical; Engine bay, de-grimed;

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Yeup!

I'd probably still be living with my parents, playing video games, mom screaming at me through the door telling me to get a job! You'd be amazed at how easy it is determine ones recreational vices based on the content/topics in their posts...

Ah, finally back on topic...

Too many drugs typically do make it difficult to see much depth in some things...

Love your sig...

Back in the early '90's we used to make jokes about the ricers with their big wings on the trunk lid of their FWD automatic transmission 4 cylinder, 4 door cars, (the "hey look at me" crowd!)... We joked that we could capitalize on this new movement of "genuine faux" performance and offer a front wing to this crowd of attention seekers. Our design was more of a forward canard really... But this guy is serious, actually trying to apply down force to his real race car. VERY Goofy looking, but probably functional...

Speaking my mind.

I might have to change the title to; "Phlebmaster's 240Z Evolution, Broadband, fah-getta-bout-it. ;-)"

Completely and utterly moronic! I am a bit frustrated that I just wasted 10 minutes of my life watching that! Napoleon Dynamite was at least entertaining! Doesn't keep with the theme or intent of any of the Block videos, i.e. it is NOT a "Ken Block gymkhana spoof"! Only good parts are the guy standing next to the car in the garage and when he gets out of the car at the end! Borderline shed fodder for sure…

If you guys are thinking of the traditional 1st gen SBC, then yes, solid billet cam blanks are available, al the lobes are full circle so any firing order can be ground into them meaning the the camshaft is really not an issue, cost will still more than your typical $200 off the shelf cam grind, but should still be well under $1000. Go roller lifter if you can, more for the sake of getting away from the flat tappet issues and lack of Zinc in todays oil, that and the more aggressive ramp rates that roller lifter allow, more lift under the curve, or for elevated RPM use, milder ramps for less valve train stress...

Thanks Bob. Crower is definitely on the the list of contacts when the time comes.

Gollum, Am I slackin? Yeah I guess so. This project is still near and dear to my heart, this would end up in my BMW M3 LSx project. I haven’t updated mostly because I am busy with a few other projects and I have finally mentally locked myself into a realistic foundation and settled on to what degree I want to take this power-plant. Keeping it simple and inexpensive with as many off the shelf parts are possible, custom parts being the crankshaft and camshaft only. As such, I plan to revisit this once the LSx is in the BMW and I'm ready for the next phase of that project, i.e. single plane! In the mean time, here is my initial plans for this build. Big bore, short stroke, long rod, be happy with a 7000-7500 RPM redline. I want to use the LSx as the foundation. Have the custom crank built by one of the crank manufactures. Cam to be custom manufactured by one of the cam manufactures. Specifics, BLOCK; LSx block with the 4” or 4.06” bore, (any 6.0L or 6.2L block, that I stumble across within my budget at that time). CRANK; Custom built manufactured single plane Main and rod bearing journals dia to remain OE LSx. Stroke to be the same a the GM 4.8 LR4/LY2, 3.268” stroke. OE LSx crank snout and flywheel hub, (have thought about setting the flywheel hub to match the traditional SBC and to mimic the one piece rear main seal fo the SBC to make it easier to utilize the lighter W/C T-5 trans. Still head scratching over that.) RODS; Stock or aftermarket LR4 rods, 6.276” ctr-ctr. PISTONS; Off the shelf pistons that fit the block I am using. Pin heights are all the same for all LSx engines, so with an LR4/LY2 stroke and rod combo, stock pistons 6.0L pistons can be used in the 6.0L block. I’ll probably use a high-performance variant vs OEr. Displacement with the following bore sizes; 4.000” = 329 CID or 5381cc, 5.4L 4.030” = 333 CID or 5462cc, 5.5L 4.060” = 338 CID or 5544cc, 5.5L 4.080” = 341 CID or 5599cc, 5.6L 4.090” = 343 CID or 5626cc, 5.6L CAM; I would like to plan for mild future boost, 7-10 PSI max. Mild lobe specs, probably ground with similar lobe profiles to the GM HOT cam or thereabouts. Lobe separation angle, yet to be determined, probably around 114 degrees. HEADS; Mild port work done to whichever casting yields the desired compression ratio with which ever piston for premium pump gas. Rest of the engine to remain stock/mild. I do have some reservations regarding the camshaft for the LSx. In my research, I have been getting the impression that ALL LSx cam blanks are manufactured by one manufacturer and those blanks are not true fully round blanks, but the lobes are rough shaped and clocked for hte LSx firing order! If this is true, that means not only GM, but Comp Comps, Crane, Lunati, and all the other cam manufactures are using this one blank! This “one” and this one blank has the lobes rough shaped, way over sized to meet essentially any grind, none the less, they are rough shaped, i.e. lobes are clocked for the LSx firing order, no other firing order can be ground on that one blank! I have not looked into what it would cost to start from scratch with a billet cam. I’m sure it can be done by Comp, Lunati, etc, but I’m also sure if we have to go to this level of custom cam the cost will be on par or greater than the custom crankshaft!

Holy rocket science batman!

In the upper Pacific Northwest we prefer 100% Nitrogen vs the 78% Nitrogen. Freezing temps combined with humid air leads to tread icing... :lmao:

Happy birthday Dave! Charge the batteries and take the plane for a flight...

Using your shop manual, (even the Haynes manual), and/or if you’ve done any research then you would find the lift figures for the stock cams. Armed with that information and a pair of cheapo dial or vernier calipers, you can measure the cam lobe in two places, one over the nose of the lobe and the other 90 degrees, or perpendicular to that for the base circle. Subtract the base circle measurement from the nose-of-the-lobe measurement. Now multiple that by 1.5 for the rocker ratio. Then subtract the stock valve lash clearance of .010”-.012". Now that number should close to .393"-.413" which is the stock L-series valve lift. If your number is greater than that, chances are pretty good it is an aftermarket cam. If it less?...