BRAAP

Looks great, goodwork! Love the valve cover mounting. Don't know if this will be of any help to you or not, but I have done a little bit of research on the GM LSx coils, probably not as in depth as I should. In my GM LSx coil research, there are 2 coils that are the “the” coil choice for radical boost builds and these two coils will outperform both the LS1 AND the LS2 coils! Both are truck/Yukon coils, one of which is what you currently have and are commonly referred to as “the truck coil”. The other is commonly referred to as the “Yukon coil”. As I understand it, both of these truck/Yukon coils will keep lighting the fire in the cylinder of highly boosted engines beyond the point the LS1 and LS2 coils quit igniting the fire. The LS2 coils are a bit hotter than the LS1 coils, but both styles of truck/Yukon coils are still the coil of choice amongst the high end tuners. There also seems to be some confusion regarding the LS2 and newer style truck/Yukon coils. In particular is one Mega Squirt ignition tech page that is incorrectly labeling the newer truck/Yukon coil as also an LS2 coil, it is not. See pics below. LS2 coils are similar in architecture to the LS1 coils with the looped lament core, the newer truck/Yukon coils are round with visible heat sink. When I replaced the 5.3 in my wifes 2001 Suburban, it has the early style truck coils like you have. The replacement ’04 engine had the newer style. I also sourced another set of 8 of these Yukon coils for Ron Tyler, same vintage Yukon 5.3! The LS2 coils do NOT have the visible heat sink. I sent one of these Yukon coils to HBZ member Zya for testing, I think Ron sent Zya an early truck coil a year or so earlier, about the time frame Ron was selling those coil brackets. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120533 In the pics below, you can see the difference physically between the LS1, LS2 and Yukon coil; Here are my Yukon coils, ’04 Yukon 5.3;

Sorry to hear of this. Our prayers are with her, her family and you. Take care and God bless, Paul

I’ll be honest. I have not built one like these at retail yet. They all have been for friends and self. I end up doing this, they give me some parts or cash for my efforts, we’re both happy. You know how it is with close friends that are essentially family. For what I would charge to duplicate ANY of those for Joe Blow customer, you could build one from scratch for approx the same amount, which would not only look nice, be unique, but outflow the stock intake! Personally, I think you are giving away your modified intakes. I truly feel your modified intakes are worth more than you are asking. Tough part is finding that threshold the market will support. For the amount of time invested, plus the consumable parts such as bits, sanding wraps, the manifold itself, air compressor wear and tear, electricity to run the compressor, etc, in the end, it is not uncommon to see only $1.50-$10 an hour for the effort put forth. Our time for such work is worth more than that. IMHO.

Here are some of our custom factory L-6 intakes I’ve done over the years. If they are to be painted, all the large holes are plugged with brass pipe plugs. All small divots are then filled in with JB weld. Final shaping, sanding, then painted. My first intake was done that way back in 1989, as well as my last for the Race car a couple years back. For the polished or ceramic coated versions, aluminum pugs are cut up and welded in the larger holes, divots filled in as well. I farm out the welding as I am not a welder. Here is one in process; Finished products; First intake I did: This is good a friend, member here and officer in NWZ club. WAS an EGR intake, machined off the EGR plenum from the back plugging the individual transfer ports in the runners themselves. This is a bone stock ’75 L-28, factory EFI, everything function as stock, other not having the air flow regulator, (initial idle speed is set higher than normal to maintain idle when cold.) Another good friend for his really nice yellow S-130, ceramic coated N-42 intake modified for modern O-rind style injectors; Next to unmodified manifold; My race car; In process, fuel rail attached, still needs some work; Fuel rail mounts of race car mani; Vacuum ports of race manifold; Another N-42 intake, for stock throttle actuation and stock injectors;

Just some corrections to the some of the EFI components labels. The Fuel Pressure regulator is attached to the fuel rail itself. 1) Large is Brake booster, smaller is FICD, factory A/C controls etc. 2) Mount for A/C idle speed boost. 3) Fuel Pressure Regulator port. 4) Mount for Air Flow Regulator. 5) Port for Carbon canister. 6) Cold start injector. 7) Fuel rail mount pads.

LOVE the exhaust note! Thanks for sharing! 3.6L 2 stroke V-8, in a sand rial. 220 HP, 320 Ft/lbs at the wheels! Cool!

Chuck, You are welcome. BRAAAP...BRAAAAAAAAP....BRAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaa............

Hmm... Ok, got me. That would be UBER COOL with an incredible exhaust note. Only in New Zealand, right? Just kidding. You Kiwis build some incredibly powerful V-8's for your white water endurance racing.

Yes, the first post in that thread is 100% incorrect! There are NO automotive V-8s engine that fire 2 cylinders at the same time. A V-8 with 2 cylinders that fire at the same time is so wrong on so many design and engineering levels... Talk about a huge step backwards! It would be far easier, less expensive, lighter weight, etc to just manufacture a 4 cylinder of the same displacement. The firing pulses would be the same, every 180 degrees of cranks shaft rotation, no reason to go the through trouble of doubling up on pistons, con rods, valves, etc.

Being as you are cutting the firewall and trans tunnel to move the engine back, you now have all sorts of freedom and shouldn’t have to lower the rack to get the engine in the car under the stock hood. By moving the engine back, hood clearance wont be an issue either. Win win… As for your pan, in cutting your firewall and tran tunnel to move the engine back 75-100 mm (3-4 inches), the sump itself will sit behind the rack, so even if you do modify the shallow section of the pan to gain a little more pan-to-rack clearance, you wont have to modify the sump. Remember, the sump is where the oil is stored, not the shallow region of the pan, so if you modify the shallow section but don’t modify the “sump”, then there is no need to add capacity as you didn’t loose any to begin with.

The answers to ALL your differential questions can be found in the stickies at the top of the drivetrain section. Those sticky threads clearly describe in text and photos ALL of the Datsun/Nissan/Infiniti diffs, including the 3.54 ratio Q-45 V-LSD short nose R-200, and what is involved in mounting one in an early Z car. (the R-230 install is a good source) Here is the link to the drive train section. The first 16 threads are the stickies I am referring to. http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=62 These threads in particular will serve you well; Differential / CV / LSD / HP / Torque / R160 / R180 / R200 / R230 / Diff Mount Complete Differential List (need help) Talkin the talk... q45 r230 r200 z30 & so on & so on Short nose R230 and R200 info and why. R230 Install....Tech info for those interested... Hope that helps, Paul

Thank you for the donation. As a donating member, you can now choose your custom user title, just PM myself or RTz with what you want it to say and we'll make the change. You don't mind if we recycle Hand Solo to someone else do you?

COOL! Another fish on… No, it does not fire 2 cylinder at the same time. It still fires one cylinder over 90 degree of crank rotation, like the standard SBC. What is causing the difference in sound, the rough coarse rumbley bumpity vs the smooth crisp braaAAAAP is the spacing/timing of the pulses when any 2 or more meet in one pipe, (any merge). Here is visual way to look at it. Lets look at the standard SBC, one bank, then the other bank. Every character is 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation, “x” will represent a cylinder fire, “-“ wil represent no cylinder fire. Starting with #1 cylinder firing, we’ll go through 2 complete cycles. Driver side bank; x--x-xx-x--x-xx- Passenger bank; -xx-x--x-xx-x--x As you see, the firing pulses don’t meet up in the pipes evenly with dual plane crank. THAT is the, (say this “real fast”) bah-dah-RUMP… bah-dah-RUMP… bah-dah-RUMP… bah-dah-RUMP… you hear from a traditional V-8 Now for the single plane crank. The single plane crank allows the firing order to change so that the firing pulse meet up with each other at evenly spaced intervals. Again, 2 complete cycle starting with cyl #1 firing, Drivers bank; x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x- Passenger bank; -x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x You can see this is a smooth, (again said VERY fast) bap..bap..bap..bap..bap..bap..bap, and at the speed in which it happens in real life, it becomes a "braaaaaaaaaaaa….." Another visual representation. Dual plane in red and blue on the left, single plane on the right! Traditional dual plane V-8;

Looking good, love the pan! That Vette LS2 oil pan looks like it will fit nicely once you get the engine back 75-100 mm (3-4 inches). Are you "sure" you want to drop the engine 150mm, (5 7/8”) from that position? 2 things I see that will cause severe headaches with such a drastic drop. 1) To get the engine down 150mm, (5 7/8”) you will have to lower the rack, 63.5mm (2 1/2") so the rack will clear the spinning crank! I’m sure you noticed while swapping your pan, the windage tray hangs down below the pan rail of the block exactly 38mm, (1 ½”). With your engine sitting like it is now on the 127mm deep sump, (5”), there is only 89mm (3 ½”) clearance between the rack and windage tray/spinning crankshaft as your engine sits in the pics above. Just forward of the sump you may have to modify the pan to within a smidge of the windage tray to clear the rack, which only gain you a best case drop of only 86mm (3 3/8") with the pan resting on the rack. You'll still have to lower the rack 63.5mm (2 1/2") to get the 150mm drop from the above pics. 2) With that 150mm drop, the sump of your oil pan will be hanging approx 50mm (2”) closer to the ground than the stock VG30DE oil pan, (VG30DE oil pan is flush/plumb with the bottom of the cross-member, which is only 76mm (3") lower than you sump sits in the pics above!). With your pan 150mm, (5 7/8”) lower than in the above pics, you will chance dragging the sump on the ground over small bumps etc, and if the car is lowered? I’m looking at dropping my rack/cross-member between 19-25mm, (3/4”-1”). I need to plot out what affect that will have on suspension geometry, I’m sure it wont be desirable. LS2 oil pan dimensions; Courtesy of LS1Tech.com

In coming up with dimensions for the custom pan, I overlaid the rack and pinion to a few oil pans. MAGENTA circle depicts rack and pinion. GREEN is material to remove to clear rack. BLUE is material to be removed for cross-member, (cross-member can be modified for less interference.) GTO front sump pan; Caddy CTS-V pan; F-body pan; C-5 batwing pan; Till the next update…

Lets get your priorities straight first! Quit using flow numbers and power figures as if they are somehow one in the same. I’ve beat this drum before. I can port your head to deliver impressive flow numbers on a bench that will beat lots of other “flow bench” racers numbers, but I guarantee you the head I port for the next guy who wants to build torque and power will out run your "flow bench" special down the drag strip each and every run with better drivability, mileage, power under the curve! Hear me know, believe me later, and think about it sometime. Flow bench figures are NOT HP figures, and vice versa! A flow bench is a tool used by the person porting the head balancing the flow across the cylinders of the head, and those max flow figures are only to help him in becoming more proficient at his craft. For the end user, flow bench numbers only indicate a heads potential to flow statically, not taking into account runner lengths, expanded exhaust gasses, scavenging, valve closures, yadda yadda yadda. It is akin to a torque wrench, i.e. a tool, not a dyno. The torque value on your rod bolts has about as much indication at how much power your engine can produce as flow bench numbers! Dave Rebello is one of the most respected and renowned L-series race engine builders on this planet! He uses the tools he has at his disposal to extract the most power he can, and has proven that time and again at race tracks all over the world with cars running his engines. He uses a Dyno to test and verify his work. He uses a flow bench for repeatability and to enhance flow, then backs up it up on the Dyno. Again, the Dyno and a wining track record are the final say, NOT a flow bench number! Regardless of flow bench numbers, if you want a head that flows with respect to making power, you can have Rebello port your head and you will be rewarded with a cylinder head with not only several years of experience in testing and proving what does and does not work, but also many years worth of race winning, dyno proven power production behind it. Then back up that port work with a tight lash Rebello cam! Trust me when I say the Rebello tight lash cams are incredible! VERY aggressive ramp rates, lots of lift under the curve, delivering a broad powerband! The .520” lift grind is the cam he uses on his 300 HP N/A 3.1 strokers! For a more streetable version of that cam, (I call it the sister cam), the .487” performs comparable to the Schneider .500” lift cams with smoother street manners! Induction must be aftermarket EMS with a custom intake or carbs to realize this sort of N/A power potential. That’s my not so humble opinion.

I think a small handful of you probably know about RTz’s, (Ron Tyler) 510 project. Ron has owned this little 2 door 510 for some time. Bought it at the Canby Datsun show a few years back, still had the L-16, SSS Su’s. He did a little suspension work, S-130 strut upgrade, etc. The L-16 had just enough power to get the 510 out of its own way, barely! We constantly were razzing him about his “little car that might”! He drives it everywhere, rain or shine, even 18” of snow, there goes Ron in his little putt-putt... I was pretty sure our 33” class A motor home would be a good match for it up to 45-50 MPH, we never did race, but it would’ve been close. Any how, the L-16 was getting tired and he fell into an incredible deal on a SR20DET that was just pulled from a 510! He pulled his 510 in the shop and over the last coupe/few weeks he got busy, yanked the L-16, prepped the engine bay, fuel tank mods, radiator and core support mods, mounts, etc. Just last weekend he fired it up for the first time and been driving all week working out the kinks. Tonight I wanted to make a “soda” run so Ron volunteered to drive up and let me drive back, in the dime! On the ride up he pointed out the little things he is till working on such as couple exhaust rattles, thermostat seems to hold open allowing the engine to run around 140 degrees instead of warming up to 180, though will warm up to 180 when playing, clutch pedal to release ratio, (VERY abrupt), etc. Just little stuff really. On the way back I drove! This little car is transformed! Instead of having to rev the bejeezers out of the engine to get going, it just smoothly pulls up to speed, no fuss no muss. Pulls hills in 5th gear that the L-16 would struggle to hold steady RPM at WOT in 3rd! When playing, boost builds QUICK! Once you pass the boost threshold RPM, lag is almost non existent! Boost recovery between shifts is “right now!” Power is smooth and manageable, not explosive! Right now its not what our V-8 Z cars were acceleration wise, though once he gets a few of the kinks worked out, it very well could be a 12 second ride! It's easily a low 14 car right now, possibly quicker! At this point in the debugging phase, "the little car that might" is now "the little car that will" and is way friggin fun to drive. Once sorted out, will be an absolute blast as a daily driver!

Good eye! Remove that casting flash under the intake seat, and while are doing that, blend the radius of the intake port floor to the seat so it transitions smoothly, not a step. For the exhaust, again, good eye. Radius that squared off edge so that you end up with smooth radius from the ID of the steel seat to the liner in the port. Pay particular attention to the short side radius, i.e. port floor. Blend and radius that squared off edge so that it transitions from the port floor to the seat with a smooth gentle arc, no steps or bumps, just a smooth flowing fluid transition from the seat to the liner. Helps in keeping the flow from separating and becoming turbulent in that region, i.e. more flow “out” of the chamber. I would still recommend unshrouding the valves, even if you merely just lean the chamber wall back to the gasket edge, on either side of the chamber where the valve is closest to the chamber walls, this will pay off in gains in air flow at mid to full valve lift. To protect your valve seats from the inevitable runaway cutter while carving in the chambers, find old scrap intake and exhaust valves and those will protect your seats while carving in the chambers. This thread is good DIY L-6 porting primer; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110269 As for the deck surface, I do not advise spot buffing/sanding on the deck surface. The deck surface is far to sensitive for hand work and could easily result in a premature failed head gasket, seen it happen TOO many times to recall! Hit up your local auto machine shops and have it decked. If the head is at all warped, even in the slightest, be sure to have the top surfaced as well, which means completely stripping the head down to its bare casting. Hope that helps, Paul

EVERY single dyno report I have found, shows the LSx responds positively to cam swaps, in particular aftermarket cams with their more aggressive ramps vs the OE cam. Even grinds comparable to the OE LS6 grinds show 15+ lbs of torque gain from the start of the pull to the end, whether it be on an engine dyno or chassis dyno! The only reason I'm going with these OE cams is I got them at a fair price, otherwise if I were to keep the 5.3 long term, I would step up and pay the extra for a Comp, Lunati, or Crane offering without any reservations.

Nothing substantial to update right now. Been busy with honey do lists and starting up a few more Rusch Motorsports projects. Tore the cam out of the LS1 short block. We knew it was an aftermarket cam, turns out it is custom Comp Cams grind and in EXCELLENT, almost new condition. In this 2000 LS1, with heads, LS6 intake and some exhaust, this cam churned out over 370 HP to the wheels! I have no desire to use this cam, so it will sit on the shelf waiting for Ron to build an LSx for his clean 260-Z shell. Grind 3712R/3714R I/E HR13 Valve lift .562”/.566” I/E Dur. @ .050” 218/222 I/E LSA 113 deg. The T-56 with LS6 clutch, flywheel etc is still enroute from Hawaii, scheduled to arrive on the 10th/11th. Just received my GM cam swap gasket kit, (water pump, front cover, and front main seal). Still need to order the head swap kit with gaskets, head bolts etc. (need to remove the heads first to see if I can use the MLS head gaskets…) Ordered a new starter, should arrive any day. Haven't found a GTO shifter arrangement. Might just for-go that and dog-leg it. I think I 'll like the shift lever geometry the dog leg will provide. Bought 2 cams. One is for sure on the way, the other, awaiting tracking number… The cam on the way is the one I will be running; 2000 Y body, Vette, GM Pt# 12560968 Valve lift .500”/.500” Dur. @.050” 198/209 I/E LSA 115.5 deg Should be subtle gain in midrange and top end torque without any sacrifice wont to 2k RPM. The other cam I bought is 2001 LS-6 Corvette Z-06 cam, Pt # 12560950 Valve lift .525"/.525" I/E Dur. @ .050” 204/211 I/E LSA 116 deg For this interim power plant, if the milder Vette cam isn’t too mild for the 5.3, I’ll swap in the Z-06 cam, otherwise I’ll hang on to it for “interim part duex”, a 6.0L. Should keep me satisfied while building the Pinnacle F550 LSx. Just started collaboration with a shop to build a batch of custom aluminum oil pans dedicated for the Z-32 LSx conversion! Tossing around the idea of a front sump, though would require cross member mods. Will update more on that we progress… Till the next update...

A little while back, I was struggling to get the Suby to drain and take coolant! You recommended your flushing technique which I will do, when time permits. Right now, it runs and doesn't overheat, so I'll just leave it alone...

That would be cool.... My little Suby GL wagon is till kicking. I'm stumped over the coolant issue, but it seems fine! Heater blows slightly warm air, not hot, car temp never gets hot. For now, I just drive it on occasion when I need a dose of slow character.