BRAAP

JTR mounts for an LS1? I know JTR offers headers, radiator mounts, and inlet air ducting options for the LS1 Z cars, but I thought JTR only offered mounts for the gen I-II SBC, not the gen III-IV?!?! At any rate, Honest street value of your car is between $523.64 and $26,413.39, depending on several variables not mentioned or seen in any pics.

Just a heads up. Currently doing an LSx Z-32 converison, plan to retain the firewall fully intact, i.e. not cutting or smashing of the firewall or tunnel entrance, and after stabbing a 5.3 in the engine bay with the truck pan, (also have the F-bod and C-5 vette pan in hand), I can 100% confirm that the Vette and F-bod oil pan will NOT clear the rack! The GTO pan might be the answer, having to move the engine further forward, (bellhousing mating plane in the same location as the VG30DE). You could use the F-bod pan, but essentially would only be using for the block mounting flange as you build a new pan with a very short length sump with kick outs, only 5" deep to keep ground clearance and oil capacity. There are some pics showing this clearance issue in this thread; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025

That plug merley supplies power to the Air Flow Regulator when the key is "on" which heats up the bimtal strip inside the Air Flow Regulator, thereby closing off the internal air passage, decreasing engine idle speed at a rate the more closely coinsides with the engines requirement for cold running idle speed. If left unplugged, the Air Flow Regulator will still warm up due to the heat generated from the engine radiating into it, but it will take longer than if it was plugged in, and it may not even fully warm up as it would if it were plugged in. In short, just plug it back in. There is NO reason WHAT-SO-EVER to leave it unplugged. Search for the Z car EFI bible on this forum. Find that link and read it. It should help explain all you need to know regarding the factory EFI, how and why the various components do what they do.

Airflow regulator. In short, it is the high idle speed control when the engine is cold. Plugging it back in will allow the engine idle speed to come down at a rate that matches its warm up speed during engine warm up, vs leaving it unplugged.

You mentioned in your first post wanting to set the engine as far rearward as possible. Are you willing to cut the firewall to achieve that? If so, then a rear sump pan such as the F-bod, Ute, or Vette will clear the rack & pinion. If you are not willing to cut the firewall, then hold tight for abit. I am currently installing an LSx in my Z32 and I am not so willing to cut my firewall. I hoping to perform a less envasive installation. The front sump GTO pan may be the ticket with a modified cross member. still in the measuring/mock up phase to determine which will fit with the least hassle. This link has many more details including pics of the engine sitting in the engine bay. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025 Keep us posted on your conversion. Regards, Paul

Must have found the dry matches...

Pulled the VH45 out of the engine bay and dropped the 5.3 back in for more measuring. Current plans are to use the 5.3 I pulled from my wifes '01 Burb, replace the seized lifter, "possibly" install an early stock LS1 Vette cam, and use the '01 LS1 intake I already have. Haven't settled on the oil pan yet, highly modified F-bod pan, move the rack forward at least 1" if not 2" if space allows or convert to front steer rack, or go with the front sump GTO pan with some x-member modification and possibly a little pan mod. T-56 will either be the GTO with its shifter being 3 3/8" further rearward, (not sure the plastic housing for the GTO shifter will fit in the trans tunnel?!) or the Caddy CTS-V and its remotely mounted shift lever, (allows for virtually any shifter location).

As promised, I stabbed the VH45DE in the engine bay of the mock up Z-32. I'll post the pic in a few days. The fit is intersting. It has such a natural fit in the Z-32 engine bay you would think it was meant to be. As covered already in the other VH45 Z-32 conversions, the cross member is just barely in the way of the front sump oil pan, which the x-member can easily be massaged without affecting any of its structural integrity. As others that have succesfully done this conversion have also shown us, the VH intake is in direct conflict with the hood, though a custom intake would alleviate that and also add more of the custom WOW factor when the hood is raised. The currently available VH45DE to Z-32 5 speed trans adapters makes this conversion a very attractive all NISSAN, V-8 Z-32! In the end, I am electing to go "Elle, Esss, Exxx" This means the VH45DE with its ECU harness and auto tranny, are now for sale!

PM'd.

NO coil is bullet proof! Professional installation does not mean that there couldn't be something else amiss in the cars electrical system. "This part sucks cause it failed on my car and by the way, don't bother with advice"! Richard, you know that one persons account in one car is not indicative of what everyone else will experience. One vehicle failing a particular coil does not make that line of coils bad and then warrant a "beware of junk coils" warning to the rest of the world. Way too many other LS coils on V-8's and other engines running hundreds of thousands of miles, boosted and otherwise with other brands of aftermarket EFI triggering the coils that are not having this problem. Against not wanting advice, I would suspect issue with the cars electrical, (over voltage alternator, bad diode in alternator), improper ign trigger settings/dwell, inadequate voltage to the coils, coil location is subjecting them to too much moister, heat, vibration, etc...

I have just commited to using my 2001 LM7 5.3 in my '93 Z-32 coupe and will also be using a manual trans. Being no stranger to building, owning, driving, autocrossing V-8 Z cars of various flavors, including a W/C T-5 behind a SBC 350 daily driver/autocrosser that ran 12.3 @ 113 MPH, for the approx 40-50 lbs the T-56 adds vs the W/C T-5, especailly in an already heavy car like the Z-32, this little "percentage" in weight the T-56 adds to the overall vehicle weight wont be noticed. (W/C T-5 and bellhousing weighs 85 lbs, T-56 and bellhousing weighs in 125-135lbs) Not too menion the T-56's abilty to handle more torque without modifications, is more readilly available, already is a direct bolt up the LSx, and with its extra gear, is less critical regarding getting the rear end ratio "just right". The trans is so low and in the middle of the car, if you have to take on a weight penalty, that is one of the better places to take it. In short I feel the T-56 offers more wins vs the piddly 40-50 lbs it would add to the overall vehicle weight. One other plus for the T-56 in the Z-32 is the T-56 is available with different shifter locations allowing more engine mounting options fore and aft fin the engine bay to clear the rack, crossmember, firewall, etc while retaining the shifter in the stock shifter location, or location of your choosing. If you plan to cut the firewall of the Z-32, then that is not so much of an issue. I've done a bit of research on the shifter locations the various LSx T-56s available and the T-56 definitely has a couple offerings that should cover pretty much any Hybrid scenario, not so with the T-5. Link to my project with some pics of the 5.3 stabbed in the engine bay of a Z-32; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142025

Wet matches?

Yes APS. As for "older"? If 2006 and possibly later qualifies, then yes again.

Way cool! Nice job!!!

Think Summits Quadra Deuce! Sy-Ty transfer case mated to a T-56! With the LSx in the nose of an S-30, maybe even some creative firewall massaging to mount it a little further back, there is enough room in-front/beside the damper for an R-180 or R-200 up front. The biggest hurdle will be the tunnel clearance for the front driveshaft! Found this, if it helps? http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=43911 There is already an AWD V-8 powered 260-Z 2+2 terrorizing tracks and hill climbs in the southern hemisphere, so it can be done... Kevin Mackrell's V-8 AWD 260-Z! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAW4oPQUzYs

Good idea. Thanks for the advice. Found this in a quick LS7 motor mount search; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/508069-ls7-motor-mounts.html http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hrdp_0704_engine_swap/index.html

Funny you should ask… Yeah, sort of… My Z-32 is getting a transplant and getting it ASAP! I am very HEAVILY leaning towards LSx power over the VH45DE which means selling off my strong running bone stock VH45DE, (put down 242 HP to the wheels through the auto tranny on the Dyno at Horse Power Freaks) along with my complete Supercharged SBC 350 w/T-56 and JTR mounts, and possibly my ’75 shell and 240-Z race car suspension! Here’s the deal. I have recently delved into the LSx and am finding it a most incredible power plant capable of incredible specific output in very streetable trim! Comparable to multi-valve engines but with only 2 valves and push rods! Latest LSx's incorporating Variable Cam Timing on top of the already stellar performance! In short, get the 5.3 up and running in my Z-32, then “build” the LSx of my dreams, including single plane crank! For those looking into building a very short stroke single plane SBC or SBF in need of longer rods for the shorter stroke to fit off the shelf pistons, I have found the LSx to have long rods that are fairly stout, add ARP bolts and you have a very nice high performance con-rod! There are 3 rod lengths used in current production LSx power plants, 2 of which us mere mortals have interest in. The third is the uber exotic forged titanium LS7 rod. For what it would cost to acquire the LS7 rod, (retail price from GM direct for a set of eight LS7 rods is $2781.44) you could have a set of very custom rods built that is more than up to the task of pretty much any short stroke flat plane V-8 crank engine, but at the exact length and small/big end diameters you desire! Most common rod; 5.3, 5.7, 6.0 and 6.2L all use a rod length of 6.098” (154.89mm) Longest rod; The baby of the LSx family, the 4.8 has the longest rod @ 6.276” (159.41mm) THE most exotic "production" GM Rod; LS7 6.067” (154.10mm) Wouldn't this sound AND run nice with a single plane crank?

400 HP should be “ok” on stock internals, so long as you are very attentive to the tune, i.e. conservative AFRs and conservative timing while under boost. To make best use of the blower, I would consider a piston with more dish to drop the compression ratio a little further, possibly a forging? While you are in there, don't forget ARP rod bolts. With the lower compression, you should be able coax 500+ HP safely, again, being sure to tune the PCM to deliver the right amount of fuel with the right amount of ignition advance for the boost levels and grade of fuel you will run, “premium!” Even if you don't mod it, I say go for it! Any LSx, whether it is a bone stock 4.8, or 5.3, get it in and running, even stock it will perform with much more spunk than the stock NA VG30DE! ('01 5.3 stock rated at 285 HP @ 5200 RPM, 325 lbs/ft @ 4000 RPM) Then take your time looking for that great deal on a the LSx of your dreams, and either build it or just swap it in! The conversion part of the project will already be done! I'm planning a smilar route. The 5.3 out my wifes '01 Suburban in my ’93 Z-32. It would make for nice “starter” LSx with considerably more torque and HP than the stock N/A VG30DE! With freer flowing exhaust should perform comparably to the stock VG30DETT! I have to remove the heads on this one and replace a lifter, (because I can, will most likely perform a mild Rusch Motorsports port job with 4/5 angle valve job) will probably leave the stock cam if it isn’t too damaged from the seized roller lifter, otherwise might look into using a stock LS1 cam, (GM pt# 12561721) with LS6 valve springs and will definitely be using the ’01 Vette LS-1 intake I already have. Might even use my WOLF V-500 stand alone EFI. As mentioned above, once it is running, conversion portion done and major bugs worked out, then locate that 6.0L diamond in the rough short/long block and build the LSx I really want to run, or maybe the L-92 with the VVT?... Did someone say, "single plane crank?".... "...Here Viper Viper Viper...."

If you really want to geek-out on the different sound a V-8 can produce with a 180 degree crank, (I think we touched lightly on the 180 degree headers), check out this thread… Regarding that topic, as far as I am aware, is the most indepth thread publicly accessible anywhere on the web. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139545

To further Challengers point, I am going to assume that you are talking about a V-8 engine as 180 degree headers can only apply to a V-8. Not much gain over what a quality standard header would deliver. On a 400 HP small block, 180 degree headers “can” be worth as much as 10-20 HP, but that is taking the painstaking time to finely tune the AFR and ignition timing perfectly, only after knowing for sure that your components such as heads, cam, intake, carb, comp ratio, etc are perfectly matched. In other words, if you have the budget of a small NASCAR privateer team, then the power gains the 180 degree headers would afford in exhaust tuning for approx 20 more HP, might be worth it. Otherwise, for us street oriented car guys with realistic family budgets, 180 degrees are more for WOW factor and to alter that rumble rumble exhaust note to a smoother crisper cracking exhaust note. Any HP gains that the 180 degrees header “could” deliver may not even be realized. Also, 180 degree headers expose more heat to the engine bay, and to the oil/engine if they are the “under the pan cross-under” variety.

In short, for the power level you want, (still using the 5.3 I assume), boost would be the most economical, logical route and will EASILY attain 400-500 HP mark, even 600 HP and still be steetable. If N/A, even a true 400 HP will be peaky and will require more custom internals than a 6.0L to produce the same power! Especially if you want 500 HP, definitely will be into custom internals for the 5.3 and it will be VERY peaky, which is fine for race car, but not too much fun for a street toy. If N/A , I say sell the 5.3 find a 6.0L as it will attain 400 HP easier with less costly parts and wont be as peaky to drive. If your budget can afford a Turbo or two, the 5.3 is MORE than capable of the power levels you desire!

Yeup, been to the *cough* page which is where I got the pics below and... *cough cough*, (I'm sure you have already been there though) I also recently received an F-body pan from a HybridZ member, and have had an ’01 Vette bat-wing pan for a few years, along with my truck pan. Still need to get the front sump GTO pan. Problem with the those 5” deep pans is that they are 4” inches too deep where the rack and pinion goes. This picture of the truck pan shows where I need to modify the pan to clear the rack, (middle section), and shorten so it does not drag the ground, i.e. bring ht bottom of the pan to the same leave as the bottom of the cross-member! As compared to the Vette and F-bod pans pictured below it, you can see by cutting either of those pas to clear the rack, essentially leaves very little oil capacity left. Removes the entire Batwing section of the Vette pan! My truck pan! F-bod pan, courtesy of LS1tech.com. C-5 Vette pan, courtesy of LS1tech.com I just found this regarding the trans and the CTS V trans with the GTO oil pan just may be the hot ticket!

Sorry of the lack of update recently. Haven’t been able to do any more work on this as I have a couple of custom L-6 cylinder head projects that have been here in machine-shop jail long enough and need leave the shop THIS WEEK! At this point, I still plan to stab the VH45DE in the engine bay for pics, though with my increasing desire to play with the LSx, that would mean the VH45DE would go up o the block. I am pretty sure the VH45DE will bolt in the car using the Z-32 5 speed with much greater ease than getting the LSx and T-56 in the car, but the more I study the LSx the more attractive it becomes and the more fab work I’m willing to tackle, (firewall is to remain intact!)

:lmao: Just kidding... I love a good roast, even at my expense, so long as it is in humor and it's funny. That was funny.