BRAAP

Daeron, SBC, Kinsler, Hilborn or other manufacture of Mechanical injection. Front cover is for mounting the mechanical fuel pump. Aluminum block with the hoses is the fuel metering block/valve, connects to the throttle linkage. I WANT that manifold with the butterflies and the airhorns. I don’t need the injectors or the fuel metering block of the front cover, just the manifold and air horns.. Hmmm. What do I have for trade… Hmmm. Custom cylinder head work… L-series cylinder heads.. Hmmm…

Your suggestion/advice is quite vague and I’m not even understanding what you are talking about. Could you please clarify more? As I understand it, your description would be a vacuum leak at less than atmospheric MAP and would also be a boost leak at above Atmospheric MAP, or while under boost. Being MegaSquirt and a MAP based EFI system, if such a breach in induction sealing was at the TB, plenum, turbo, (other than the individual runners themselves), to a certain extent, that can be tuned around, unless it is a cylinder specific leak which as I understand your explanation, then would hold true for a particular cylinder. If it were sucking more air, (MAP less than atmospheric) that would be a vacuum leak and if that leak were in the plenum, all cylinders would see that vacuum leak equally and being a MAP EFI system, he has already compensated for that as his AFR’s are safe and good. Now if this “leak” were at an individual runner, say at the manifold to head interface or a vacuum port in that individual runner, then what you are saying would make more sense. A vacuum leak, (MAP at less than atmospheric) would be a leaner mixture for that particular cylinder as it is drawing min more air than the fuel that cylinder is receiving. MAP at atmospheric, AFR’s would be equal and fine, then at above atmospheric MAP, (under boost), that particular cylinder would be running richer as it is now getting more fuel and less air, as some of that air is now being expelled out of that leak area to the atmosphere and not being ingested into the engine.

In reading over this, a couple things come to mind. Possibly your damper inertia ring has spun, (elastomer let go), and the timing mark on the damper is not showing actual piston TDC when verifying with a Timing light? Maybe try pulling out a lot of ignition timing, I mean an exaggerated amount of timing, say on order of 15-20 degrees across the board. If the car still runs and runs good, then chances are when you set your base ignition timing, your damper mark had spun, OR, possibly the pointer is on the wrong side of the front cover for that damper? Another possible issue might be the coolant flow through the head and around the chambers themselves, as has been discussed before, (link to an INCREDIBLE discussion below). With your Turbo engine, I would definitely recommend sticking with at least the NGK heat range 7 plugs. You might even try the 8’s though you may find that at partial cruise, the 8’s might carbon out, not getting hot enough, though under boost may be just right. A slightly leaner cruise mixture will help keep that from happening, but wont cure that 100%. Plug heat range is very dependent on each engine. For example, my N/A 8:1 L-28 loved the NGK BPR7ET’s. 6 were to hot, and 8’s were perfect while at the track, but too cold for the street. Outside of that, I’m at a loss as well. 1) Verify without doubt that your damper pointer IS point to TDC when the number one pistons is actually at TDC! 2) Try next colder heat range spark bolt, 8’s in this case, you may have to lean out cruise mixtures if you try this. 3) Install a colder Thermostat such as the 160 degree which should help cool combustion temps a little more. Also along those lines, I have read reports from others whom I trust in this arena, that coolant additives such as Red Lines Water Wetter and NPG-R coolant helped noticeably reduce the common L-series ping. Theory is it softens the coolants surface tension allowing the heat from the chambers to transfer that heat to the coolant more efficiently therefore keeping combustion temps cooler which WILL reduce ping. Here is that thread that goes into incredible detail regarding blowing the head gasket at cyl #5 and coolant flow, water wetter, etc. It is a deep subject, but VERY informative; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125186

In looking for pictures for the V-8 ITB thread, I stumbled across this Rover V-8 with 4 SU’s. Thought it was pretty cool. Does anyone know if that is OE or someone's DIY set up?

As Six Shooter already stated, the Cross-ram style would clear the hood of a Z car. With an air cleaner box? Dunno. Obviously would require carbs or programmable EFI.

Rover… Not sure, Ford maybe? Definitely FORD, maybe INDY car?

HECK YES!!! If it is a V-8 with ITB's, EFI or CARB, POST IT!!!!

GOOD stuff guys. Keep it coming… For some of us, looking at this style induction akin to porn. We just can’t get enough. Then with stand off injectors and Carbon Fiber horns, OMG, I get the me the urge to shed my clothes and rub against the machinery… Here is some more I uncovered. Exotic first… Hartley; Ferrari; Unknown, pretty sure it is a bike V-8, like the Hartley; BMW;

Cause I wanted to see you contribute to this thread and knew you would cover the Nissan V-8 ITB pics.. Mission accomplished…

You stated 10:1 compression pistons. Could you please give us more info on these pistons i.e. deck height at TDC, dome volume, and more info on your engine, ie. is this an L-28, diesel stroker crank, over bore, etc? A couple key points on the L-6, which will give you some more “material” to search for as the answers to your questions have been discussed, argued, and even built in the past, and archived here. 1) The L-6 is very sensitive to detonation. Conservative comp ratios help reliability more than aggressive comp ratios help power! We are pretty sure it revolves around excess combustion chamber temps stemming from inefficient chamber shapes and abnormal coolant flow around the chambers etc. At any rate, many 10:1+ N/A L-6's rattle like a diesel on the best premium gas, and 15-20 lbs of boost on 7.8:1 compression turbo motors routinely pop their head gaskets, from detonation. Keep THAT in mind while building your engine. Keep the detonation in check and you will be rewarded with “reliable” performance. For a new L-6 build by someone that is somewhat new to the L-6, I strongly recommend against 10:1 compression and ANY boost with an L-series. It can be done, but ALL of your anti detonation ducks had best be lined up in a perfect row, including the use of Race gas/methanol, etc. 2) Head-piston-comp/ratio combos regarding N/A and boosted applications have been covered here Ad nauseam. I know that I’ve personally written an entire novels worth of info on this forum alone regarding all of the U.S. available L-6 heads for N/A, Turbo, Nitrous, and supercharged applications for various short block combinations, comp ratios, etc etc etc over the past 8 years. And then there is all the other info added to those and other threads from other members savvy with extreme performance Datsun L-6 engines. Below is link that is a great start for your research, please read through it completely, and if any of it is vague or not exactly what you are looking, you will find what you are looking for in reading between the lines so to speak, i.e. common L-6 nuances will stand out that that you need to build around or use to your advantage. Then after that, search for other key concepts or ideas from that reading keeping in mind those L-6 nuances in your search queries. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104420 Good luck, Paul

Thank you for posting this. This picture shows the correct firing order for ALL Datsun L-6 regardless, 1-5-3-6-2-4, with the dizzy rotor pointed at 9:00 O-clock with #1 cyl at TDC of the ignition event. The other oddball firing ordering posted above, 362415 is correct, but only if your dizzy rotor points to the 4-5 O-clock position with #1 cyl at TDC of the ignition event (common if the oil pump drive/distributor quill shaft is installed willy nilly) and the original poster of that firing order KNOWS this and was merely cracking wise. If your distributor quill shaft is installed with the correct orientation, this information can be found in any Z car service manual, Haynes, Chilton, Clymer, and factory Nissan service manuals which we encourage everyone to use.

Happy Birthday Pete. Have fun, keep it safe.

It is very common for head gaskets to NOT use all the coolant transfer ports that are available in the head and the block. I’m not 100% sure how they go about determining which ones to use and what size to make those holes, we just have to trust the manufacturer made the right choices for our applications. This is obviously an extreme performance head gasket, chances are the ports they chose to use for coolant transfer suits extreme performance SR20DET engines. It is apparent the manufacture biased the coolant transfer ports to the rear of block. This is an effort to help evenly cool the entire engine. Is it perfect? Probably YES for a single inlet, single outlet cooling flow through the block and head in relatively short engine, forcing the coolant from the front of the block to the rear, up through the head gasket and then back across the head to the T-stat in an effort to get coolant “flow as evenly as possible through the entire engine. If it had larger transfer holes towards the front of the engine, the coolant would just short cycle from the water pump to the T-stat. The front cylinders would be cool yet the rear cylinders would not receive fresh cool coolant. Now get back out there and put hat bad dog together! I for one am looking to reading your fist drive report.

Below is a link to a complete and thorough walk through on "how to post pics on HybridZ". Looking forward to seeing these parts. Click ME for "How to post pictures on HybridZ!" Take care, Paul

INCREDIBLE!

That is wrong. Zmaster was not banned for asking too many specific questions with circled pictures, (we like that). Zmaster was “suspended” for asking questions that he has the resources to answer on his own, yet continually asked those questions after being told where to find those answers on his own, and some of those questions are NOT conducive to this forum. This forum is NOT mechanics 101. If a person either wont, or cant understand or comprehend what it is he looking at or for in a service manual, this forum is not for them. This forum is dedicated to extreme performance modifications to Z cars, not routine maintenance, not restoration, or extremely basic troubleshooting. Those sort of questions do NOT belong on this forum! These 2 threads linked here are WHY Zmaster was suspended for 7 days, read them in this order… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132418 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132448 As an aside, how are you going can you prove to me that you are NOT Zmaster signing back up prior to the 7 day suspension?

I am disappointed that you would offer such advice and I would like to think that on this side of the tracks, we don't live our lives with a morally corrupt selfish “screw everyone because we can” mentality.

Yeup, been posted here at least 2 other times I’m aware of. Very pleasant and easy to talk with, local to the Portland area. He has been to the Canby Datsun meet, watched him run at PIR one night. His brother Roger is into Z cars and has a few nice 240’s, one of which we just delivered a flattop L-28 with an MN-47 head for with Triple Webers. In fact, Rogers engine is the example I used in the pictures for the degreeing camshaft thread.

You out of creative titles?.... It was a challenging task to say the least, but I felt I could adapt and overcome...

I didn’t notice that either as I just cut and pasted “assuming” that quote is exactly what he wanted. All is better now,

Probably the neighbor kid racing you down the street with his RC car.

Keep in mind, as a donating member, you can make up your own user title, just let myself or RonTyler know and we will make that change, or we can make one up for you that you can have us change at any time. The NON donating members don’t get this privilege, and most will not get a custom user name, though some may, by way of their past postings, get a username of OUR choosing that they may or may not like and they will have to live with, unless of course they donate, then we will change it to a name their of choosing. I gave this one for now, let me know if you like it or have another in mind such as a nick name etc. It’s a GO chief! Do you like it? dogZhuge. Yeup! Sure does. You wanna keep it or, go back to DogZhuge or something else?

Don't give up Jonas. Look at all the support you have going in this thread. Steering shafts can be rerouted, (Dave Lums VG30DETT 510, http://www.datsuns.com is good example as are a few other projects I've seen here in the past). Then I want to see the EG33 in your Suby wagon too! (Blaze the trail for my Suby wagon EG33... ) Build it!!!! BUILD IT!!!! BUILD IT!!!

Fella’s Ron was being awfully nice. To ALL of you guys with the lazy/broken pinkies, read this link! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518 If you can’t type, DON’T! HybridZ is NOT the local mall and we are not IM texting each other! Shift, 2 things. 1) Please do NOT guess when answering a tech question. Please read this link regarding guessing; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131790 2) The AFM is NOT an on–off device. This thread, in post #19 in a manner of speaking, describes how the AFM operates; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132075 If this keeps up will have to institute a nap time after our banana, apple sauce, and cool-aid lunch…

Exotic V-8 IR induction; I love the stand off injectors on this Holden V-8;