280zex

the carb doesnt cool anything at all. However the atomization of fuel in the carb works like meth injection. I have 100 deg F intake temps at full run at 22psi. Its not at all good with fuel. 17mpg average and 4 mpg at wot and if it idles too long it will foul the plugs. Mabe I need to try a msd box. This setup is very different. The longer I stay on the throttle the more hp it makes until peak turbo flow.

I don't run an innercooler. Boosting through a Holley carb cools off the charge nicely. Currently scaring the hell outa myself @22 psi on pump gas..Yup the charge pipe comes off the turbo and goes directly to the carb using less than 2 feet of 2.5 inch to 4 inch pipe. Cheap enough, simple, and very effective except the mpg but hey its boosted!!

Ok just by looking by the photo above this setup is still using the stock wastegate "hole" in the body of the turbo. This is the same "hole" that an internal wastegate flapper style uses. Now the piston style gate in the photo may flow better than a stock flapper style (10% more?) youre better off using that piston style wg before the turbo. I mean if your gona weld up yours why not do it right the first time?? just my 2 cents..

If you know Holley carbs enough I have a post about the mods for blowthru in this post.. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/87310-blowthrough-280z-dyno-resultsand-pic/

I did mine with a Holley carb Arizona 4bbl intake and a t04e. cost 3k but I did it my self so add 2k in labor. Absolute turbo goodness other than I need a new clutch and trans as my current setup couldn't handle the 20lbs of boost!!

Tony I was curious about turbine housing temps thats why I used the thermal laser. Never tried one before so I was a kid with a toy. It was kinda comic like. I was hitting everything with that laser.

I do run wbo2. I get 12.9 afr at idle and cruze and pretty much every where. wot goes to 11.1 @ 8 psi @ 6.5k rpm. I can roll into the throttle or jam it. Never had tip-in issues or hickups or intake backfire/sneezes. I am curious how much temp difference between iat and ambiant air temps are. I have an air to water inercoler and its my first time using one.

Don't have any sneezing issues. I ended up with clutch and trans issues. So there goes 1.5k mabe less if I get lucky. At 1 point I almost went with TWM throttle bodies with SDS and turbo combo. I just couldn't shell out 4k. I haven't had to fiddle with the carb once I got it jetted right. I've been tuning in the winter so mabe this summer it'll have an atitude. I don't have an egt or iat guage either. I used a local shops thermal laser and checked the turbo housing while on the dyno. I saw 850f right on the housing. I still haven't had the $$ for ceramic coating the exhaust pieces due to the new clutch and flywheel. I think I hit the point where I should enjoy driving my Z and not the HP chase. I put the waiste gate back to 8psi. Gota drop the trans and check the flywheel and clutch disc. Then there is finishing off the bov/recirc valve. I have the exhaust end pointing at the induction side of the turbo I just never ran the short piece of hose. There is always something to do on the Z..

Yup its them little parts that get ya. Turbo kits can be found for under 200.00. Mine was under 200 with shiping. EFI is way better to go with for daily driving. I would guess the first is start-ability I have NO choke. This makes the car cranky when its cold. Then its mpg or the lack there of. I dunno what mpg a 300+rwhp EFI turbo gets.I get 17 mpg cruzin and about 5 wot. Now its all about the odd-ball parts. I did more than a YEAR of research on already developed blowthru systems on american v8's. Then it came down to the "guess" work. That alone took 4 months. I went WAY overkill on my entire engine not taking into acount things like clutch/trans. Now it looks like I need to get a 240sx 5 speed and a new clutch disc and pressure plate. I decided to let the turbo go for glory and at 14psi the clutch gave out badly. I got home but the smell is NASTY and the interior smels like burnt eletrical/clutch. I just installed a fidanza flywheel and an ACT organic 6 puc 240mm disc and 400crank hp pressure plate.That lasted less than 1 month. Hopefuly the flywheel is ok. I dunno about hp but damn I hit 1.22g's (per the autometer DPIC g meter) from 2nd to third shift. Then slippage and the stink!!!!!!!!!! This tells me that my tire combo is up to the power- for now..

Whats odd is that before I went to blowthru I used the stock dizzy/coil and NO ballast resistor. Worked fine even with a super rich setup.

Hey I kinda had the same problem at first. I ended up going to the mallory uni-lite dizzy locked down(no adv curve) MSD blaster 2 coil and the MSD 6AL box. I got fuel load up at idle when using the coil and mallory ballast resistor. afr's at 11 at wot and 12 at cruze but the plugs are nice and clean now. The MSD 6AL cleaned up the spark for shure!!

The flywheel bolts to the end of the CRANK SHAFT with out the spacers. You must have been tired Prox...get some ZZZZ's

Get a brass 3T fitting-female. get 3 brass nipples male thred. 2 need to be the same and close to your fuel line size, 1 needs to be .108 inch ID this is for the return line side. the other 2 are for feed from pump and feed to carb. this will give a static fuel pressure of 6psi running at the carb and gives return fuel and saves the pump. thats how I ran the fuel to the v8 and about every other holley carb setup I've ran on any vehicle!!

It should be fine. I just sold a 1978 280z with a 450rwhp zz4 sbc. It has the original FI pump and feed/return lines. I set it up for 6psi running. You gona run dead head or return?? if return style then your gona need a tank breather. My blowthru z uses the stock FI pump and return style and it works perfect.. IIRC any more than 7 psi will push past the needle and seat at least thats for holley..

I run blowthru holley/t3-t4oe. Love it. Took lots of research and trial'n error. Cost about 2k. Most money had to go into fuel delivery. You need a boost refrenced fpr for a carbed setup. Aeromotive sells a nice piece for about 150$. theturboforums.com can answer any question ya wana know about carbed turbo. Go to this post on hbz..thats my setup. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/87310-blowthrough-280z-dyno-resultsand-pic/

Get some video if ya can. I'd love to hear the difference in sound compaired to my holley blowthru. Running a muffler??

Mabe different throw bearing depth size?? I had that happen once. everything worked but no go. wrong throw bearing size. I had to get a new bearing. I am using the 240mm turbo fly wheel and stock replacement turbo clutch with a non-turbo clutch fork. Thats where my issue is. I also noticed excess push-rod play before getting the throw bering changed. Now there is no play.. also I'm using the zx non turbo 5 speed.

Stock FI pump. constant flow/return style with a fuel tank breather. So far everything works fine. I don't drive it much due to the cost of fuel. I built my engine with a 8.5 to 1 comp. ratio.

I got my hands on 1978 280z with a v8 swap 327 sbc. I then traded the 327 for a 450 hp zz4 sbc. Not realy a good idea as the chassis is not in that good of shape. Gas milage is a joke. Even with the fattest rear tires I could fit the car is "3 seconds to death". Scares the hell outa me. Just touching the throttle at 60mph will cause the rear to go sidewayz. Lights'em up no problem. However very (scary) fun to drive. Not a daily driver tho. My turboZ with 300 rwhp with major brake/suspention/aero upgrades is wayyyyy more fun. Handles fantastic. Looks sweet too. Better to make a Datsun handle/stop better and keep the >200rwhp. No major work all the time. keep it a daily driver. Decient gas milage. I learned that a lesser hp better handling car is way more fun than a over-powered monster gas hog is. Just my 2 cents..

BPR6ES I think. Gaped at .30

ya car runs fine. I have been distracted by a 1978 280z with a REAL 327 sbc-full roller too- I got for 1500. Cars got the usual rusted out battery tray and inner fender well. I have no plans on keeping the chassis. The engine is going to end up in my wifes '41 Willis kit car. Never drove a Z8 before. Holy hell now I get it!!!! The drivetrain is very well built. I gota sort out the double fuel pump and surge tank issues. Last owner had it dead-head. NO return line!! DOHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

Black pearl was wat I ment, my bad. I was stuck on the paint code when I posted. Has the long tube Hookers. Looks like the steering shaft passes between the #1 and #3 pipe. First thing is to re-locate the fuel line, its way too close to the #4 & 6 pipe. Then its fix the front wire loom. Its worth the effort. Definitely going to take a year to clean this one up...

The owner of this 5/78 280Z got realy desperate as he was in WAY over his head. I got it for 1500.00. Its in rough shape but some elbow grease goes along way!!! I was told by The z man of washington that it MIGHT be a blue pearl. I don't know how to properly identify this car. The original paint is a blue pearl under the carpet. The engine/trans is numbers matching 327 sbc. Has a 3 speed auto and a 3500 stall converter. I have all the paperwork on the engine build. The install LOOKS to be half a$$ at best. The speedo doesnt work and the interior needs help. The car also comes with a 11.9 second 1/4 time slip from Pacific Raceways in Kent, WA. The Hoosier slicks are shot, dry rot from hell. size 245 65 14. Its a serious kick in the butt to drive!!!! Has a dyno slip printout says 400 rwhp. I wont know until I get the car to Dave at Fairlady motor Z in Tacoma, WA.

Mabe I took my measurements icorrectly. I'm working on a small water leak today. While I'm at it I'll throw the dial indicator on the cam. Also I've learned that when I had the rearend done I shoulda went with 3.54 gearing instead of the 3.90. Make for great smokies though!! I had been thinking about going edis but haven't yet.