280zex

So I blew out the transmission in my 280Z turbo. I sent some emails and texts to some members here, and dont ya know that I will be getting an upgraded trans installed in about a week!!! Its going to take me to do some fab work, but after all this is Hybrid Z right?? Thanks to: 240hoke, DevilS30, Seattlejester, you guys rock!!

So I'm sitting at a stop light, left turn, 2 lanes. Car in neutral, push in clutch and try to put into first gear but shifter feels gritty and chunky not smooth. Ok I leave the light and in the middle of my left turn I hear a loud pop from the trans and I'm now in a low speed drift (just started raining) Panic e-brake jab to finish 180 drift and now looking down the nose of a lifted Ford F350. cram car into reverse dump clutch and punch throttle, jerk wheel hard left and snap spin car into 180, cram 2nd gear and punch throttle to avoid far passenger side car collision. So I then shift 3rd, 4th, then 5th. The shifter spits back at my hand real damn hard so I shove back and all is ok. NOT. 5th gear slips out again with a soft pop, so I go for 5th gear. Its gone. Shift to 4th, test throttle (car still going 60mph) feels ok but now there is a whiney noise from trans. Drive 15 miles then I take freeway exit 2 miles from home. Sitting at the light with clutch pushed in and trans in neutral I hear/feel nasty bearing whine and clunk. I try first gear, no go. Try 2nd gear, it works. Now I try 3rd and it works. I have to stop 1 more time before my drive way and don't ya know, the trans stays stuck in 3rd!!! I nurse the super grabby clutch and coax the car home, trans stuck in 3rd. Park the car, turn off engine and try to shift into neutral. I finally yank real hard on the shifter to get into neutral and that's where it sits now. So it looks like its time to do the 240sx trans swap, and get some new boxer shorts because the ones I'm wearing got used ;-(

I have the AZC intake and used to have the MSA 6 to 1 header with no issues. Make shure you get a new intake/exhaust gasket. Z specalties has a nice thick gasket available here http://www.zspecialties.com/ Oliver might even have a header for ya too??

Finaly got the engine compartment cleaned up!!

Dude nice custom cold air intake!! This has to be one of the coolest and most unique ways I have ever seen this done!! A++++

Time to replace that pesky heater core, at least I don't have the center dash installed anymore!! I might even try to plumb in some air flow to the dash vents via the floor pull vents using some spare shop vac hose.

+1 for Delta Cams. I have been to their shop and I use a re-grind cam they offer, with their rockers too. The cam now has 7k miles and no issues!!! On a side note, when I finished my engine assembly, I used a modified distributor shaft and a drill to pre-prime the oil pump and galley before initial engine start. Always a good idea!!

use brake parts cleaner spray, and make shure you clean out the tiny holes in the throttle base plate too!!! Get the blue gaskets, they are reuseable. Change the spring in the vac modulator to the white one, the Z is a light car so you need a light spring for the secondaries. Also remove and clean the float needles and seats. Get new fuel bowl balance tube o-rings. make sure to super clean out the air bleed ports, them are the small holes next to the throttle bores on the top of the carb..

Well it looks like the Bosch BIP373 IGBT is the best on the market for this application. Looks like I'm just going to wire this up and see if it will fire up a head lamp first before I try to run my coils..

for those who know how to read this diagram, is my thinking correct?? I'm still unsure about the IGBT, should it be pt or npt??

I'm a car meizer, so no drinks, no food, no tobacco, no gum, and no side seat driving!!! Seriously please dont slam the doors closed either, they are as good as new!!

my setup- F54 block, .5mm over bore, 10cc dished pistons, n42 head mild port n polish, 4.80 lift cam @ 280 degrees, with the cam on hole 2. T3/To4E 60 trim turbo blown thru a Holley 4bbl carb, 20lbs max boost methanol spray, no intercooler, running 92 octane pump gas. timing is 20 degree locked, NGK BP6ES plugs gaped at .28 coolant temp at 205 degrees F, and oil temp at 185 degrees F My O2 sensor reads 12.5afr at idle, and cruze = 60mph @ 6200rpm. I think the plugs look great for my tune, any thoughts?? the first pic is plugs 1, 2, 3, and the second pic is plugs 4, 5, 6 from right to left, or as reading 1 thru 6 from front to rear

damn, now I don't feel so bad about the leaky heater core!!

So my brand new heater core went bad, lasted a month. I ordered it from auto zone, but it will have to go back to manufacture (china?) to get fixed/replaced.. Atleast its not dumping coolant all over the new carpet, just a very small spray during high loads on the engine. The realy odd thing is that the coolant somehow started showing up on the passenger side of the windshield, on the inside of the car!! Last month it was a leaky radiator cap (new also)..... I realy should be checking parts over realy well before installing them. Just because its "new" don't mean jack. 5 years ago I got 6 badly remanufactured master cylinders from 3 different local parts stores, come to find out they all source parts from 1 warehouse!!

A fool and his money shal soon be seperated

My Z is named "the other woman".

Sorry about that, i thought it was 3rd gen with a custom intake! Honestly i dont know much about the newer v8's or what the difference is

I was surfing the web and came across this pic, turbo/carb goodness My guess is that this engine combo would twist a Z chassis like a pretzel!!

I'm running water/methanol spray, the paperwork that came with the kit said not to spray before the turbo. The kit is from cooling mist, if this helps...

Its the 280zx fuel rail cooling fan ducting. This is a factory part installed by Nissan to help prevent fuel rail vapor lock (280zx only?) I had to install this to keep the carb cool, it can get too hot and boil the fuel off = realy bad...

I finaly got the engine compartment all cleaned up. All that shiny polished aluminum is hard to keep clean!!

I was, then found a nice setup for the Mustang that was a perfect fit. It uses a sandwich type unit that is located behind the oil filter, comes with all the fittings, hoses and cooler. All I had to do was fab the mounting brackets, to hang the cooler infront of the radiator. The total cost for the kit and the aluminum flat bar I used was 115$. The kit included a thermo switch for seperate fan control, and has a built in thermo control that keeps the oil temp regulated The only thing I had to change was the oil filter, it has to be shorter than the stock unit.

I would love to see some of them shops you get to go to!! Even just a junk yard!! I would probibly just move in Thanks for the pictures Tony, you the best!!

Thanks very much TonyD!! I have limited pix of the s20, bumped into an original owner of a 1969 skyline at a show here in Seattle a few years back. Cool car, but nobody was allowed within 5 feet so my photos are limited...

Might have a bad injector/sticky injector. Also check the injector seals in the intake manifold, they can go bad and dry crack.