denny411

Yep, there is another thread here about it.

Thanks alot guys. I`ll call comp cams sometime this week. One more thing, Is it acceptable to run solid roller lifters on a hydraulic roller cam? or is there something specifically different with the grind?

It would take an awefull lot of heat to melt it. The heat will radiate away from the spot you are trying to melt. I would prop the piece up with the torch blowing directly at the stud, and leave it sit for about 15-20mins. Then throw the cover in a bucket of water. Quenching it quickly will cause the stud and cover to contract and break away any corrosion. it will also draw some of the water into the threads to helpl ubricate them.

This cam suggestion is for a 383 sbc,w/ dart sportsmanII angle plug heads, 202/165 and 200cc runners.10.5:1 compression Kieth Black hyper pistons,and 5.7 rods. I`m using an Edelbrock Victor jr intake with a 750dp holly carb Headers will be long tubes with 1 3/4" primaries, 3 1/2" collectors, and 3" dual pipes. I`m using a 200R4 trans with stall converter, Have 3:55 gears and 24.5" tall tires. The recommendation was also based on a 2700lb car. TM-HR HYDRAULIC ROLLER SERIES .700" roller diameter The TM-HR Hydraulic Roller Series profiles are designed to be compatible with today's sophisticated engine applications. There are a variety of hydraulic roller lifter profiles to choose from, depending on one's specific application and desired performance. adv@ [Duration lobe lift point] lobe [lift w/ rocker ratio] Grind # .006" .050" .100" .200" .300" LIFT 1.5 1.6 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- int/TM286HR 286 234 202 145 74 . 340" .510" .544" exh/TM290HR 290 238 205 148 76 .340" .510" .544" This is a dual pattern cam, supposed to produce good power from 2200 to 6500rpm with a relatively flat torque curve. I didn`t get any hp/tq #`s from them, and would really appreciate it if someone here who is knowledgable with desk top dyno could run this and see what it should do. Here`s a link to the grind#`s if you have trouble deciphering my chicken scratches http://www.reedcams.com/Cat/hyd_roller_profiles.htm#Anchor-H-R-47383

Have you tried putting some heat to it? get them as hot as you can and tap on them with a hammer. Then try the double nut thing again.

The easiest way to tell would be to look at the harmonic balancer. The 400 ill have a notched section on the back side of the outer ring. A 327 cam would physicaly fit and work in a 400, so that`s not a clear indicator.

Yes, it will work just fine.

I thought the FUMES was one of the PERKS.

I`m going to use Black indoo/outdoor carpet from Lowes. I`m also planning to use 1/2"rebond carpet padding under it. It should be lighter than the heavy rubberized sound deadener, and will also make it much quieter. I`m doing the same for my wifes MGB and it looks great.

That`s where Ryan got his. Maybe the stage 2 is 700. I may just buy some of the HP hard parts from them and do one myself. O,r if I sell off some stuff that`s ben cluttering my garage I might be able to justify buying the whole tranny. Decisions...decisions

Most likelly,because the terminals are different. I would recomend staying with HEI since it is easier to work with and needs less maintanance than points.

No, they can check the balance of your old flywheel and balance your new one to match it. You would have to remove it and take it to them. The other option would be to disassemble the bottom end and take the pistons,rods,crank,rings,harmonic balancer,and the flywheel to them and have the entire assembly rebalanced. Doesn`t sound like a lot of fun does it? flywheel balancing could be compared to the process of wheel balancing. It`s basically the same principal.

If it`s for your 327 it shouldn`t need counter balanced. I would recomend taking it to a good machine shop that balances flywheels and have it balanced to match the old one. I suspect the old rotating assembly was balanced together and this could be your problem.

I`m going to check with MOSER eng. to see what they can come up with. I`m thinking stronger stubs,in 4 or 5 lug. With companion flanges to match the R230 cv`s and the zxt cv`s.

I would have a hard time buying a product from a company that doesn`t answer their emails. What`s going to happen if you have problems later and noone returns your messeges?

It could be a bad bushing in the shaft. Swap it out with an HEI and see how it acts.

What was the cost w/ shipping of the level 3 200r4? Do they require a core?

Is it the right flywheel? maybe they shipped you an externally balanced flywheel. I would recomend getting it checked or balanced before puting any more miles on it. You could tear up bearings in a hurry with that much vibration.

COOL , At least you have something to go by. I hate putting basket cases back together. I`ve got a chevelle that`s been off the frame for three yrs. I dread the days I will have to spend "trying" to remember where everything goes.

I havent had that problem "YET",but for some reason I have to log in almost everytime I get on line. With the old server I stayed logged in unless the site went down for some reason, or if I deleted all of my cookies and temp files. I haven`t changed any of my settings, so I assume it`s something with the new server.

I think it will fit but the ring gear bolts are a different size. This has been tried or discussed inthe past.

I would buy the whole engine and build a 406. If I didn`t already have a 383 nearly finished, I would do just that. It seems to be the way the masses are going these days.

What componets are required to get a 200R4 to hold up 500hp/tq?

I was comparing it to one I saw them use on monster garage