denny411

Try this http://www.car-part.com/

do you need the "stock orange" air cleaner? if so, I`ve got one.

My homeowners "might" cover it, but it might be hard proving I actually had the stuff. I bought it from a guy who needed money real bad, so I paid cash and didn`t get a recipt. I`ll have to read throught my policy, and get a police report.

Apparently, sometime while I was in Alabama, Some worthless BASTARD got into my garage and swiped my nitrous system. WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH PEOPLE!? The other thing that I`ve found missing is my battery relocation kit. I assume it wasn`t someone with a chevy, since all of my chevy stuff is still there. The only things I`ve noticed missing were universal fit. WHAT A WAY TO RUIN A PERFECTLY GOOD DAY Now I`ll be pissed every time I see the empty spots on the shelf.

I would recomend finding a private individual that does quality body work on the side. I`ve had a number of vehicles painted by a local guy who has never even worked in a body shop. To his credit, he has done an average of 7 or 8 paint jobs a year for almost 20 years. For example, He took my 77, stripped the entire car to bare metal, welded and smoothed the rear valance, welded in all rust spots, welded in the marked lights, installed the front air dam and 3 piece rear spoiler, and painted the car with base clear. He did this all for less than 2,000 and, I`ve had nothing but compliments on the car. Body shops have alot of expenses that run the price up, like taxes, commercial building, employees, insurance and taxes. You might even be able to find someone that works for a proffessional that moonlights. my .02

1)If the starter is bad the solenoid may kick out the bendix but the starter won`t turn. 2) If the solenoid is bad, it will click but not throw out the bendix,but this could also be caused by a few dead cells in the battery or a corroded connection not allowing enough amperage to operate the starter, but still enough to operate lights.

1) bad starter 2) bad solenoid 3) bad battery 4) corroded connection

I agree, you just have to know when "enough is enough"

If you want to go to .023, you will need to get the argon bottle and regulator. My mig is a snapon Ya212 230amp/220volt. It kicks a$$ , I`ve got rolls of .023,.035 and .045 wire. I use the .045 for heavy duty stuff that I used to use a stick welder for, like the tow dolly I built out of 1/4". The .023 is for sheet metal, and the .035 is the most popular size,(and cheapest)so I use it for everything in between.

You may want to look into a new rehastat for your wire speed, or maybe clean it out with some electrical contact cleaner. That may enable you to use a larger diameter wire. just a thought anyway

WHAT?! Isn`t anyone here going to defend the mid 80`s Chrysler K cars?

My point is that all car makers produce the occasional lemon. The sign of a good company is how well they back up what they sell. I hold no allegance to any specific car maker, but if I were asked what model of car I consider to be the all time worst. I would have to say any mid 80`s chrysler K body with the 2.2 or 2.5. I would have to say that the majority of those were lemons

There are plenty of narrow minded people out there that frown on what we do to Z`s too, but who cares. If I`m building a car for someone else, I`ll do it their way, but if I`m building it for me, It`s none of their damn business. My .02

You are all forgeting that the big three are not the only domestic vehicles on the market. I know for a fact that the Accord,Civic and Oddessy minivans are all american made.As well as many Toyota, Mercedes, BMW and Nissan cars and trucks. All of these manufacturers have have foundries and assembly plants in the US with all american employees, and at least as much of the parts of their cars is produced in the States as GM,FORD,and Chrysler.

I talked to a guy a couple years ago who was setting up a machine shop. He had two engine dyno`s and one chassis dyno, as well as a flow bench. At the time he quoted me 550.00 to flow bench a set of sbc Dart heads. I hope the offer still stands. With the prices you guys are quoting, I would be more inclined to build my own flow bench and do it myself.

That idea might work better with a tri power setup that operates on one two barrel at part throttle and all three at wot.

http://www.mortec.com/sfampage.htm Try this site, it should have what you need

Good luck with that remote starter. I installed one on my wifes explorer a couple years ago, and it was the biggest pain in tha a$$. I bought one for my truck at the same time and have yet to install it. Hers was just the starter only, and that was bad enough. Mine has the electric locks, and with the trouble I had installing hers, I`m seriously not looking foward to putting mine in . the biggest hassle was finding the wires while twisted around under the dash. I suppose it would be easier if my hands were the size of a 10yr old girls .

Well i`m glad you`re happy.

Yo, how`s the engine look on the inside? Better or worse than you expected?

I`ve got a spare cat 3208 sitting in my garage, do ya think it`ll fit?

I`m in . Thanks for the heads up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871612738 check these out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1871516429

you could model it after Janis Joplin`s porche go to this link and scroll down, http://www.arcana.com.pl/music/janis/photos.htm

The 351 would be a good option. With the distributor in front you will be able to move the engine further back. Also, with the similarities between the Z and the mustang engine bay, you may have better luck finding headers to fit. My .02 anyway. Denny