denny411

I really shouldn`t be looking for anything else anyway I`ve already got too many irons in the fire . and I already have two 280Z`s that are virtualy rust free. I just can`t get the weight difference`s out of my head I realy should sell one of the 280`s first, at least that`s what my wife tells me

I`m not sure if the 90-96 diff is an r230 or an r200. I`m just going on what was said in an ealier post,that the carrier would fit in the r200 case except for the ring gear bolts. After rereading some of the posts, I see that the side stub axles will not fit,but I`m sure that hurrdle could be cleared. Maybe use the c-v shafts from the 90-96 zxtt and make a companion flange or an adaptor,and possibly shorten the axles.

Well I`m on a mission. I`ll keep you posted I`m reasonably sure that bronze guides would be plenty strong to handle the pounding.they would not have to handle near the extreme pressure,heat and friction that they would in their intended use. They would be compacted and confined to a small area. That would make it much less likely for them to shift or distort. brass has been used for years as sinchronizers in manuel transmissions,and I`m pretty sure that bronze is stronger than brass.Or at least as strong, IMO anyway. bushed,floating wrist pins also come to mind as an example of impact strength. It would be neccessary to properly torque all of the bolts and use lock tight on them, but that should be done anyway. Just for clarification, all 200r differentials are dimensionally the same except for the ring gear bolt size? If so, I will pick up a 90-96 unit asap and have a machinist friend make some spacers . I`ll let you know what happens Oh, what about the axles fitting into the differential? will the early axles fit the later differential? I know the 87-89 zxt viscious was different and needed to keep the original axles for that diff.

Just a thought, Check your fuel pressure. it could very easily be somthing that simple possibly a fuel filter even. I don`t want to over simplify it but there are lots of times that somthing simple is overlooked. I had a similar problem with my truck, at around 80 mph it had plenty off power but around 95-100 it just didn`t feel like it wanted to go any more.I changed the fuel filter and now I can role along at a smooth 125 no problem Even if it doesnt work, it`s maintanance that it might have needed anyway

As the creative gears in my head start to turn...I start to think "what if" HHmmm Being that the ring gear bolts are 2mm smaller than the holes in the carrier, Why couldn`t I take a 12mm o.d bushing with a 1mm thick wall, cut it to the same thickness as the ring gear flange and, use it as a spacer to insure that the ring gear wouldn`t shift back and forth? A bronze valve guide comes to mind as a possible donor bushing. I`m sure there are some guides around that could be modified to these specs. HHMMmmm another option to the same idea, would be to use a bronze guide that alredy hase a 10mm i.d. and have the o.d turned to 12mm on a lathe. They use bushings on timing gear bolts to adjust cam timing. and this would be so much easier to do because there is no offset. Any thoughts?

I also had a chance this week to talk with a "ricer". He claimed his civic would run 13`s, but couldn`t say how he got it to do it My guess is, he can`t tell the difference between his dreams and reality Later I talked to a guy at advance auto who is familiar with the ricer croud. His opinions mirrored mine. He said that he`s gotten into quite a few discussions with them about, "what if" someone were to take one of these little imports and put a v-8 in it "it would beat almost any 4 or 6 cyl" The responses have been "it can`t be done" or "it still wouldn`t beat my car" I told him that my car would be down here in a month or so and, when I get the sbc in it I`ll show `em what power is all about

Where is this Steele you speak of I might be interested in going sometime

what size are the ring gear bolts in the earlier models? 10mm?

Any idea what they want for the silver 240? or how rusty it is?

I`ve got a pair of 280 doors sitting here. I`ll have to check them out and see how hard it would be to take out the rebar,or if it can be taken out without ruining the door.

How much lighter are the 240 doors vs 280 doors? and will the 240 doors directly bolt onto a 280? My thoughts are, I like the rigidity of the 280 body and was thinking that if they will bolt up I could use 240 doors. this would save some weight but not sacrifice the torsional strenghth of the car. looks like a win/win to me. any thoughts?

Are those Ohio plates? That looks alot like springfield in the background.From what I can see in the pics,That looks like pretty clean conversion and not a hack job like most. I`ve got a buddy who has a 68 stingray with 427 bbc 400turbo trans and 44" monster mudders.He hasn`t driven it in years,but he did the conversion almost 20 yrs ago.

LOL That about sums it up.

Any guestimates on the final pricing? I might be in if it`s not too salty.

I also agree with the f-15`s, We had some taking off all last weekend during the race weekend at Talledega.Four of them at a time would take off from the airport about 2 miles from my house.The angle that I am from the airport would send them directly over my house at about 2000ft. It would shake the whole house :rockon:Aclose second would be the Poser 75 Pontiac Catalina that I had when I was 16,w/ a 400 2 barrel,Y pipe exhaust cut off befind the cat converter,And running about 40mph in low 1, I suppose we`ve all been a poser at one time or another

HHMmmmm Well I`m no stranger to fab work,in fact I really enjoy the challenge of doing something that nobody else has done. I`ll keep you posted on developements and other ideas

Well to save some of the cost, I could have the stock zxtt axles shortened and resplined. The last set of standard axles that I had moser shorten and respline was 45.00 a piece but that was about 6 yrs ago.I would assume the shafts and cv`s from the TT should be pretty strong. Does anyone know how the outer cv attaches? Is it a splined shaft or does it bolt to a companion flange? Also...Isn`t there a company already making hardened stub axles? If so then I may only need to have the companion flanges made. The plus side to using this or a similar setup is useing all of the components that many of us already have.Like struts,wheels and for some Mikelly`s lower control arms. Also the time involved in fab work to install the vette rear would be extensive,and also might involve fender flares. Which for some of us who`s cars are already painted may not be an option. Just tossin some ideas around

Let me make a suggestion and let you guys tell me why or if you think it won`t work. I personally have never seen the 90-96 diff or the shafts so any input would be appreciated. Here`s the plan... I take the late model r-200 with the halfshafts,make my own mustache bar and pinion mounts,have Moser make hardened and shortened to the proper length axleshafts for the halfshafts,and also have them make hardened stub axles and companion flanges to directly bolt the outer cv`s to.maybe the outers are a splined shaft and not a bolt up flange but like I said I`ve never seen one myself. Are there any reasons why this wouldn`t work? It seems to me this would be a pretty strong setup and the prices that I`ve found so far for the 90 up 300zxtt diff is about 200.00, and the axles are about 75.00 used.

I`m gonna get with moser engineering in portland indiana while I`m back up north and see what they can do about stub axles for the early Z with the companion flanges made to fit them and the later cv axles. I`m also going to look into a stronger axle shaft itself shortened to the proper length. This could also be an option for the r230. the process would be the same either way,but first I just want to know if it`s doable and how much it will cost. There may be a minimum production number so it would be nice to know how many people would be interested in either setup.

I`m not sure that a regular driveshaft shop will be able to help you. The u-joint halfshafts need to be telescoping,unlike the cv axles which expand and contract at the joint. typicaly the failure with the u joint axles is the joint or the straps. Not the shaft itself,which would be the part that the driveshaft shop would be making. If they were to make the straps larger you then would need larger joints and in turn the joint connecting the flange at the differential would also be too big. Unless you`re talking about something else. In which case I`ve rambled on for no reason,which has been known to happen,but not much lately,but quite a bit not so long ago

Are they all lsd`s? or are thre certain ones to look for? It seems that if a kit could be made,it would make it much easier for all of us to have lsd in our Z`s. I would be willing to do the fab work if they can be had at a more reasonable price than the 87-89 diff`s which are getting harder to find. From what I`ve seen the r200 is plenty strong for what most of our intetions are. If it is possible to install a later model 200 for less money than the r230,I feel that would be a good bet for many of us who are "trying" to stick to a budget.

Are they all lsd`s? or are thre certain ones to look for? It seems that if a kit could be made,it would make it much easier for all of us to have lsd in our Z`s. I would be willing to do the fab work if they can be had at a more reasonable price than the 87-89 diff`s which are getting harder to find. From what I`ve seen the r200 is plenty strong for what most of our intetions are. If it is possible to install a later model 200 for less money than the r230,I feel that would be a good bet for many of us who are "trying" to stick to a budget.

Yea, It`s kind of a a backwoods yard that doesn`t get much stuff like that in. He doesn`t know what he has. Do you know where I can get a rebuild kit for the limited slip?

Why can`t we use the later model zx diff in the early z`s? Is it the style of the case or the axles?

What kind of power does that 460g3 put out? The biggest plus I have found for the starquest diff is that I can get it with the axles for 100 bucks.