Zman0690

i actually have those mirrors in MrKrispy's post, anyone anything to say about them?

Thanks for the info, I'm using an Everlast PowerPro 256. I feel fairly comfortable with the machine, I was using 1/16 ceriated with almost a needle point gas lens #8 cup ( None of my LWS had a .040 gas lens ). I got good results with tacking and short runs on low amps (20-25) but when running a bead it was going ridiculously slow which I assume now is what was causing it to blow out after 3/4 an inch. I also was using pulse at higher varying frequencies. I guess I was misinformed about being able to TIG at lower heat and it causing less warping. Another problem that I currently have is that I'm patching up some frame sections and have no access to the back side so no dolly and this particular section is a lap weld (18g on 22g) which from my test welds was causing the top piece to blow back using 35A however I never attempted to set my amps at 50 and move that quickly. I'll give it a go tomorrow night and post up the results. Hopefully its not a massacre like it has been.

I'm curious of anyone who has actually TIG welded patch panels on their S30 or S130. It seems like there is plenty of mention of people suggesting the use of a TIG welder but I can't seem to find any examples of the work. I'm curious as I have a TIG that I purchased specifically because of the malleability post weld and less likelihood of panel warp. I seem to be able to weld 18g and thicker but am having a heck of a time with my practice welds on the Z sheet which I measured out at .030" which would be 22g. I'm looking for any advice on settings and equip: amps, pulse hz, up/down slope, balance, etc plus tungsten type and size, cup whatever you have found to work the best. If anyone has any pictures of their Z sheet metal tig work I would love to see it.

As far as mounts go Energy suspension offers a great selection of Polyurethane universal mounts that I am going to use which can be found here.

I think its awesome that you fabricated these up yourself. It gives all us DIYers out there something to look up to. It obviously took a lot of time and effort to get all these measurements and put these files together, not to mention welding them all up to look as nice as they do. Very nice.

I found the thread you were referring to Phar, don't know how I missed it before.

I thought I had read through all the VQ posts and don't recall a DIY version of the Mckinney mounts. If you have a link to that thread I would be very interested. Thanks Phar.

Those look like they stick out into oncoming traffic!

I know you said this was a rebuild but this sure sounds like either a syncro problem or a bad/missing detent imho. Josh

Alright, here's my chance to show my potential ignorance. From my understanding there would be no reason why you would even need that surge tank if that is how you are going to run that setup. Problem that I see is that most surge tank designs have a higher volume pump filling their surge tanks and then have their high pressure pump afterwards to create their needed pressure. With your design you would never have any return unless your surge tank was full and as such if your surge tank ever was not a 100% capacity you would lose your needed pressure. I thought the whole reason for a surge tank was for fuel scavenging and regulation in high volume situations whether that be momentarily or constantly which is why you want a high volume pump to feed your surge tank. Now I don't know about the HR setup as I am doing just a DE swap but the items on my fuel rails are not FPR but are to stabilize fuel pulsations. They act more like fuel dampeners than regulators. Please correct me if I'm wrong because I hate to be wrong. I'm in the middle of working up some reports and saw this come through as a new post so if my mind is not in the right place please excuse me. Josh

Well if you decided to forgo the frame rail replacement then let me know as I'd be interested in taking them off your hands if the price is reasonable. PM me if interested. Josh

Ok I'm really lost now. At first it seemed like you were recommending 08274 and now it seems like you are saying 08115 is the way to go. Or are you saying that it doesn't matter because they are basically the same? If so what ARE the differences?

I would love to know the difference between 08116 vs 08274 and why you would recommend 08274 over 08116. I am also going to be applying fiberglass over metal and am looking for the absolute best of what will eventually fail and crack my paint. At least that's what everyone keeps telling me. Any insight from someone in the industry would be greatly appreciated. Josh

As far as I'm aware, due to the carbon fiber DS, you can only cut the yokes and have them welded to a custom shaft. Any DS shop should be able to do this fairly quickly.

I to am in the middle of this swap and I completely understand how taxing it can be on the wallet. I had to put my Z projects on hold for 9 years after my first child was born so don't expect this to get any easier. With that said I would be very interested in some of your parts. Please send me a PM if you decided to part this stuff out. Thanks

Well I too am in the process of a VQ swap and am blacking out my chrome and going with the GT-R Gun Metallic. Here is a pic of it, I have examined it up close and in the sun and it is just amazing.

Almost all shortcuts will be regretted later. There is some paint build up on that car along with, what looks like, a bad paint job and since you already know it was done incorrectly before why would you want to repeat the same mistake?

You'd really want to use a carbide aluminum bit for large removals but normally this is not what most people are after as they just want to port-match or enlarge the ports just a little. I prefer the use of several grades and sizes of flap wheels. Not only can you adjust the cross sectional area that you are sanding by using different widths but you can choose different diameter wheels and grits depending on your port size and how much you wish to remove or what finish you wish to leave. Just my .02 but this method is also very easy for the DIYer to do in their garage with either a drill or die grinder, plus it doesn't remove too much material too fast which cuts down on the "OOPPS!" factor.

Can you attach some larger pictures Zwhiteghost?

K'nice!

I think quarter windows w/air scoops could look great if done properly and would definitely be something unique.

I agree with PR280z, if they are that hard up I'd just go back and tell them all that you changed your mind, it looks so good you are going retro and doing a Datsun re-badge!

I'm not going to take a side here but I am going to say that after having 2 different body shops screw up 2 different 240's, one who was supposed to "replace" my floor pans that I eventually found out used sheet metal screws and then cut the extra off and covered it with undercoating and the other who basically just took the replacement parts and welded them directly over the rust, I have chosen to properly educate myself and do all work to my cars. However if you are going to take it somewhere PLEASE find someone who has had similar work done to their car and get a firsthand view of the quality, do not take someones word. Also if the rusts is as bad as its looks their is most definitely some frame rail damage that might as well be fixed while you are at it and if you can't afford it then wait till you can, I speak from experience on this.

I am looking for any info on his bodywork or additional pictures that anyone may have besides the two listed on reactionresearch.com's site under Subtle Z projects. So if anyone knows him or has any pictures of his car I would really appreciate it, Thanks!

Now we're getting somewhere. I'd really like to see some other pics like Ron Best's with the complete MSA II kit. I'm most interested in the transition from the front bumper to the fenders and the blending of the side skirts(front and rear). Any other pics with a complete kit, specifically an MSA II kit, with flares will be appreciated. Thanks