Kurbycar32

Oscar my 260z bumpers look just like the pictures R_3 posted and I have never been happy with them, will you be replacing those as well?

One of the Dakotas allows you to register your vehicle in their state complete with plates without actually being a resident, its not a loophole thats just how they roll. Since I live in California and drive a 3/4 ton diesel pickup I considered registering the truck there to avoid the $900 yearly registration fee. When checking the laws regarding out of state license plates I found that the gist is that if you're in the state for more than 20 days, even if the vehicle isn't yours, even if you have no intention of residency you must register the vehicle with the state. Additionally California is pushing residents to rat on people that don't register their vehicles in state: http://sanfrancisco.cbslocal.com/2012/08/15/californians-urged-to-report-out-of-state-car-registration-cheats/ . I think the whole thing is a load of crap but that's the raw deal

Man, that 72 had me worried for a minute. Way to go on that 260, its much nicer and i dig the color combo. JTR has a book on doing a v8 conversion that is supposedly step by step. I haven't done a conversion but this is definitely the place for that. Good luck

probably this one: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/blower-box-rebuild

It looks like you have an early 260z that uses cable actuated controls, you wont find any vacuum. I just went thru this with my early 260z. Many of my pictures have the cables still attached, have a look in the interior section: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/home

Exact same thing happened to my buddy on his Volvo 740 turbo. He had a fire extinguisher in the glove box and still couldn't save it. He had SS oil cooler lines to his turbo but sprung a leak somewhere

Newer computers come with a hidden restore partition on your hard drive, and usually have a tool for making a recovery disk. See if you can find the recovery disk tool before you do anything else, otherwise you will need to buy one from the manufacturer when you rebuild anything. Office will reinstall several times on the same key and if you are stopped you can call the licensing center on the phone and explain the computer broke and you are simply rebuilding it, the will activate it manually for you.

An installed program shouldn't cause a blue screen, even if it failed windows should be able to isolate it. I do professional computer repair and have remote support tools if you cant figure this out. Since Windows 7 was released I haven't seen a blue screen that wasn't caused by bad hardware so I would bet you have a bad Hard drive or RAM.

Found this link with a good explanation on differences between o2 sensors: http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/wide-band-oxygen-sensors It seems that because my sensor is a "downstream" sensor (meaning behind the catalytic converter) its almost certainly a narrow band sensor. Several years ago I needed a single sensor for my '97 Ranger and found a 3 pack on eBay selling for about 30 bucks. I made the purchase thinking "o2 sensors for life!" but then my wife wrecked the truck and the other 2 sensors have been lying around ever since. I guess ill just hawk them back on eBay, ill probably still make a profit.

The '97 ranger is in fact ODB2. Its a 4 wire sensor, this is the product description: Oxygen Sensor - OE Type - Downstream Sensor; Heated; Wires: 4; Length (in): 23.6

A friend of mine gave me a header for my L28 motor complete with 2 bungs for oxygen sensors. By chance I have two brand new Bosch o2 sensors #13612 that I purchased for a 1997 Ford Ranger. I don't know much about oxygen sensors except what they do, are these something I can use with a wide band o2 meter? Or even better can I light these up with power and watch the resistance change on a regular meter to tune my carbs? Thanks

I second that. I bought a brand new ignition, then dropped off all the locks at the locksmith to get matched. Since the locks were out of the car I think I spent 60 bucks

I have a small tip that i use when determining required resistance for setting LED brightness. Use a potentiometer instead of a resistor in your circuit when you are mocking it up. The pot will allow you to dial in the resistance to whatever you need, when it works just pull the pot and do a resistance test on its points, then buy a resistor that matches the value you find. Make sure you use a linear, and not logarithmic pot for best results.

I bought a fiberglass front and rear bumper from Oscar on ebay. They came "painted" with conventional spray paint that needs to be removed for real painting, but i don't hold that against him because the parts are listed as unfinished. I bought from him after reading some positive reviews on his parts and a bunch of negative reviews on MSA bumpers. Bottom line: medium quality part with excellent support.

v8Dream, do you have a blog site or set of pictures we can check out?

Im pretty sure Stacy David on Trucks! used an exhaust cutout valve to run mufflers on the street and just dump the exhaust on the strip. you could probably make something like this work to keep everything legal but keep the effect you are looking for http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm

I took a 1983 5.0 carbed motor and installed a 1988 fuel injection setup from a thunderbird on it with computer. The book i read was this one and has full detail on how ford fuel injection works including theory and troubleshooting. After reading the book cover to cover you will be a fuel injection expert http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/ford-fuel-injection-electronic-engine-control-charles-o-probst/1107923076?cm_mmc=google+product+search-_-q000000630-_-ford+fuel+injection+and+electronic+engine+control-_-9780837603018&ean=9780837603018&r=1

On the surface they dont look too terrible but really the only way to be sure is to have them pressure tested. Find a local radiator shop to check, they did mine right on the counter in front of me

Have you guys figured out how to make this swap work with air conditioning?

I had the same problem. On my car the previous owner installed the wrong window regulators. They were able to move the windows up and down with careful guidance but too far down and they would drop out of the guides and they would bind on the way up unless you held them in place. I would guess that your regulator either fell out of one of the guides or just isn't correct. After the fact i found this useful picture on another website with a good explanation http://www.zparts.com/zptech/comparisons/index.html

Thats the stockton pick n pull. better hurry, that one has been there for a while, and now it doesnt have a roof

they probably crush 3 of these a month of varying condition. at first i was bummed out but they keep bringing in new ones behind them so when i cant find something i just wait a month and check again. from this car i pulled the entire AC system and what looks like an MSA 6x9 rear speaker box, fresh seat belts and window regulators. All 50% on half off weekend

Just kidding, I'm sure someone just took the roof for sectioning. This is my local junk yard and I had pilfered parts from this Z before. When i first found it a few months ago the car was full of dynomat, had a rebuilt airbox and was totally redone inside and out, I'm not sure why it was in the yard at all. I stripped what I needed and when I ran across it again this last weekend I was shocked to see the dash was missing (it was beat up pretty bad) and the roof was removed. Just thought i would share

How about sharing Im looking at using a VG33 and cant find one source that has all the dimensions in one place