veritech-z

Look at the picture I posted, that's my 77 280z with the spook in question attatched. That's how good (or not) it will fit. Mopar69, the problem with that is that there are no bolt holes in mine in the places that need to be "pulled down". You would have to drill the fiberglass there, and I never really cared to risk cracking it. I usually have more pressing concerns with this car than minor cosmetic stuff, and it's just one of those little annoyances that bothered me, but unless I pointed it out to other people they really didn't notice. I've still got this spook, and no plans to use it now that I'm working with this new fascia idea, so if anybody wants it they're free to make me an offer.

I don't know if they stick out more or not, but the contour is definitely not quite right for this spook to fit correctly. Of course, being a fiberglass part, it's always possible that there was a "production variation" in the one I had (I got it from a friend who also wasn't the original owner of it, so we don't know where it comes from).

you can see the gaps were it doesn't quite fit right on the picture of my 280 that I posted. I always meant to get in there and drill some extra holes to pull that sheet metal down, but just never got around to it. Now that I'm working on my new fascia, It doesn't matter to me anymore really. Also, the bumper overrider will work fine on a 280, i've got a parts car that has them on the front and the back.

The reason it's small is because if it weren't small, it wouldn't work back there. I've seen a Camaro with a rear mount turbo, and it was pretty fast. As long as you design the system around it, there is no real reason it wouldn't work. I just don't like the complexity of plumbing in the electric oil pump (what if it fails? you wouldn't know until it was too late). Plus it makes me nervous to run oil lines that far down under the car, right next to the drive wheels. I wonder if you couldn't get an external oil cooler, a catch can, and a small electric pump and just give the thing it's own rear mounted oil system totally independant of the main engine oil system?

Don't mind my crappy wheel application...I'm still learning photoshop...

Hey Prox, what is the AN fitting in the back of the valve cover for, do you know? That's not the oil return, is it? I find their comment about "no expensive exhaust system" kind of funny, since the GTO I posted right from their website clearly has a completely custom exhaust...

You need an extremely small A/R I think, since you lose so much heat(and therefore energy that would otherwise go into spooling your turbo) in order to compensate. Also, you'll need some kind of electric scavenger pump for your oil so that it will continue to pump after you shut the car off to avoid coking the bearing up. You probably won't need an intercooler since your tubes will be so long to get back to the front of the car. Something I always wondered about was what about puddles? Even if you mount your air filter someplace where it wouldn't be in danger of picking up water, what if you were driving for awhile, and had a super hot turbo, then hit a puddle and splashed it with cold (relatively) water? Wouldn't it crack? If you look between the lines at www.ststurbo.com you can get a good feel for the type of design features that they are using. As an example, this is a detail picture of a turbo they are selling for 6.0 liter GTO. look how small the exhaust housing looks, bearing in mind this is a SIX LITER V-8. Here you can see what they had to do: they've converted it to single exhaust somewhere towards the front of the car, and then at the yellow arrow that I've added in they split it back out by using a large external wastegate. The wastegate dump tube is now the second exhaust tip. The pink arrow shows you where the turbo is. Notice how close the air filter is to the wheel. That's GOT to pick up all kinds of crap from the road (I know my cold air intake on my Altima that's between the fascia and the inner fender liner up front picks up tons of dirt, so this completely open filter has got to have it at least that bad...) If that's the size you need for a 6.0 V-8, imagine how small you would likely need to get similar performance out of an engine less than half the displacement... *edit* Wow, you guys beat me to that one! posts 4,5,and 6 appeared while I was typing that up...

Well, if you look at his post, it says he tried it with a stock L28 pump, so I suspect that it's not a lack of fuel pressure. Also, a pump that's putting out 36psi is going to be spitting fuel out of the SU vent tubes (ask me how I know that ). I really hope somebody knows the answer to this, because my car won't get over 4k rpms either. I've got MSI ver. 2.2 (fuel only). Mine is almost acting like it's got a rev limit function or something, but I haven't found any settings to that effect anywhere in Megatune...

Cyberdyne offers gauges in whatever resistance range you need, so I have to assume that if you call autometer on the phone and talk to somebody, they probably have a similar line of product. I've got the Summit 16 gallon plastic cell that came with a built in 0 ohms empty, 90 ohms full sender, and I ordered a cyberdyne that read in that range (but alas, I broke it when I was trying to tell it how big my tank was...turns out that thing on the right that looks like a "9" was actually a lowercase "g" and trying to get the adjuster on the back to go below 169 will cause it to break-thereby making my gauge unusable...).

Huh, I suppose that would work pretty well...But of course, getting them in isn't nearly as bad as getting them out...

Why yes, yes it is. Big-Phil also used to have one, but we're over that now. Anybody want to buy a Spook? Hey Califathug, this is what it looks like on a 280z (sans front bumper): The mythology behind why they are called "spooks" supposedly dates back to the old days of SCCA racing. It's a corruption of the words "spoiler" and "duct", and was developed to exploit some kind of loophole that allowed one or the other, and I guess changing the name to something clever allowed them to bypass the regulation. I don't know how true that is, but that's the story that I read somewhere on the internet, which means it's automatically true. Especially if it comes from Wikipedia, the online encyclopedia that ANYONE can edit...

That's actually wrinkle finish black, and the braided lines have rubbed some of it away a bit since I've been fooling with my injectors so much recently. The Y fitting up there was originally a low restriction solution to get fuel into both my SUs that I was running, and since this fuel rail had a provision for several 1/8NPT fittings in addition to the 6 injectors, I decided to keep it and put the pressure gauge in one hole, and use the hole that used to be for the cold start injector to be the FPR feed line. I had heard a theory that feeding a fuel rail from both sides is supposed to give you more consistent feed to all your injectors...I can't say really if that's true, but it looks cool and it definitely doesn't hamper my fuel flow that I can tell.

You guys hear something?

I've got a spook I'll sell you if you want...

I personally like the MSA type III kit, but I can see that being too "ricey" for some.

I've got one like the third one, but it's all dorifto style, cocked to the side... (old pic, but you get the idea...i've since tucked it up a little tighter, it's kind of dangling a little in this one)

I need a different career, that's for sure...I just sent my application in to www.fiea.ucf.edu to try and get started on getting my Master's of Science in video game design. Hopefully I'll hear back positively soon, the program starts August 21st. OTM: I thought it was a little high myself, but it is the Duplicolor automotive flat black from Napa (where even the cokes cost more than normal...)

Does your regulator still work without a return line? Unless you get one of those restrictor deals that just pinch the line to lower the pressure, I don't see how it could...I assume he want's to clean up his engine bay, that's the only reason I can think of to do it. The easiest (albeit not necessarily the cheapest) way is to get an aftermarket rail, or go to some place like http://www.rossmachineracing.com/index.htm and make your own from some universal rail sections. I got mine from Ebay bundled with the throttle body spacer to use a KA throttle body for around $100 or so, it's been awhile. Wonderllama, here is a current picture of my engine in running condition (I even cleaned my plug wires for ya):

Will this call out some rebuttal from the NorthWest? Will BRAAP and/or RonTyler post some actual moving pictures to show us all how it's done? Tune in next week to find out, same Phil time, same Phil channel... I'd try and post up something, but the last time I tried to spin the wheels it did ALL kinds of bad things to my car, so I'll settle for just getting it home for awhile...

I had a salesman at my dealership (where I did the work, and where the car is right now) ask me if it was an RX-7 today...I was like: "no." the conversation sort of petered out after that. I didn't mind since I was in the middle of tightening up my replacement spindle bolt and didn't have the inclination to educate him.

Exactly which part would you like to cut off? you could circle it or whatever in MSpaint or photoshop, and repost...

OK, this IS a photoshop showing how I imagine it may look after smoothing:

Oh don't worry, that engine bay wasn't always the paragon of minimalist design that it is today. It was once a real live untouched 1977 egr L28. I did put a lot of work into grinding the holes off of that manifold (I even cut off and then epoxied shut the EGR hole), but it's nowhere near as nice as most of the other guys that are justifiably proud of their clean manifolds and engine bays. I did just drill out the spot welds holding the charcoal canister and MAF brackets (I'm on megasquirt so I didn't need them anymore) the other day, so it's a little cleaner in some regards, but messier in others (not all my wiring is loomed or hidden).

Thanks Brandon! I'm thinking of doing a photoshop of it all smoothed out just to see if it will look like I think it will. I really like your car now that I see it all big and not compressed into your avatar...Do you have any pics with the door closed that are big? Also, you have a line on an Intercooler yet? Turbo Civic guy and Turbo Saturn guy at my job both just upgraded to bigger cores, and I might be able to convince them to let one or the other of them go...you want me to ask them for you?

I really appreciate it, but it still tickles a little bit to hear it called "clean". You know there is no fuel injection wiring harness in that engine bay? That counts for alot I think...I tell you what, I'll take a current, engine running picture tomorrow and if you still think it looks that clean we can discuss my hourly cleaning bill...also, you'll have to fight RonTyler for the rites to my rusty header...