BayAreaZT

bastaad - I found this info on a web site the other day. Here is the link http://www.autosite.com/garage/encyclop/ency13e.asp

How about 1/2 throttle betwen shifts if you are coordinated enough to do it. That should be enough to keep you on boost. About the BOV question, I think it has to do with MAF system of our stock EFI (or ECCS). The guys running BOVs vented to atmosphere with stock EFI probably have BOVs that close faster which minimizes the rich spot. I tried venting my 1G eclipse BOV to atmosphere and it ran like crap so I switched it back right away (sounded cool though ). If you want to vent to atmosphere you should probably go with a HKS unit.

Anyone know which west coast track they will be racing at?

According to the service manual 30psi at idle and 37psi the moment accelerator is depressed. Hope this is the answer to your problem.

I have that sensor info in the FSM. I'll look it up when I get a chance.

-40 offset will push the wheels out about 1.5"

Looks like it's time to lower your car Len. Those longchamps will look sweet on the Z. Got to be dished That ae86 is for sale in san jose BTW.

If you are worried about the spiking just set it at 9psi for peace of mind. Spiking to 11psi probably won't be a problem but I don't know for sure. I've never ran without an IC.

Here is a website for you DIY people. I plan on making a few items for myself down the road. http://www.shopmaninc.com/fiberglass.html

You will need to get spacers for those rims. Stock offset for early Zs is 0.

Does anyone have pictures of their oil cooler setup? I have a RX-7 oil cooler I'd like to install. It's about 19" long so I'm not sure how I'm gonna mount it yet. bastaad - I think you should be ok for street driving. I have been running without one since I got the car and haven't had any problems. I probably wouldn't have bothered with an oil cooler till later but I already have the parts.

You're kidding me. That guy should have bought a S2000 . Way to hand him his ass :malebitchslap:

I think my problem was as simple as cleaning some connectors. Yesterday I used electrical contact cleaner to clean the AFM plug, head temp sensor, reset the ECU and cleaned all the plugs. Tightened up all the hose clamps also. Drove it hard through 3rd getting on the freeway and didn't feel any stumbling. Never heard the suggestion of taking it out for a long drive after reseting the ECU but out of coincidence I drove it on the highway for 30 minutes. Today I took it up to about 5400 rpm in 3rd and still didn't feel any stumbling. I don't seem to be getting the puff of smoke I used to get when flooring it. Now I'm pretty sure it was a problem with the AFM or the ECU or I hope thats all it was. We'll see how it holds up.

Good score Len I'm gonna have to check that bad boy out when you get it.

This is the same proplem I'm having but my brick wall starts in 3rd gear at about 4800rpm. Acceleration is smooth up to that point. Haven't had time to check things out yet. I'm gonna check everything mentioned previously. I'll let you know if I find everything.

I have 235/60/14s on 0 offset wheels. That will give you 25.1" tall tires. I haven't had any problem rubbing but my fenders are slightly flared.

Good deal for $100. So what do you have planned for this one?

World class T5 would be my choice for a mild 327. I had a turbo350 in my 327 240Z and I hated freeway driving. If you want an auto get a four speed.

I actually applied for a position at Reynard in England. Got close to getting in but in the end it didn't work out. It was a good thing though cause they went under a few months later . I would say just keep contacting as many teams or shops as you can. Maybe opening your own shop might be a possibility. If you cannot find a position in motorsports, maybe you should look into aerospace companies as a back up. Alot of the work is similar.

bastaad - our cars are gonna be wonder twins or something. I have a phantom in the clock bezel too . I'm thinking about moving it though. I'm always looking over at the boost gauge instead of looking at the road

It may be a rig but it works great. Never had a problem when I used it on my V8Z. Just make sure it's wraped tight and the clamp is tight. It dosen't really matter if you wrap it over or under the diff as long as it prevents the rubber from shearing. Under the diff should be easier.

Wrap it aroung the mount so the rubber dosen't shear off.

Back to the original subject, seems like they have been taking pre-orders for 240-280Zs for maybe a year now and they still haven't gotten 20. I think at one point it was up to 12 or 14. I guess some people cancelled. Personally I like the reverse indiglo gauges but yeah, I would want my pointer to light up also.

Did you adjust the clutch pedal height?

Is the NA damper the same as the turbo damper? I don't have one on my car right now. I just have a filter before the fuel pump. I'm wondering if not having a fuel damper is causing my top end problems.