BayAreaZT

You had me trippin for a second I was thinking how did he get so much torque down low on a honda motor

Maybe this will help you out http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

I've been on both sides of the fence too and I agree with fl327, the turbo 6 is funner. Not to say a V8 Z is boring, it certainly is not. I'm just taking into account the whole package. Driving, tuning, planning, noises. etc. My V8 Z was faster but I'm having more "fun" in the turbo Z because of all the other factors. It's up to your personal preference and what you feel comfortable working with. To begin with, I think the L28et will be cheaper because of less fabrication and trannies are $50 but do you really count how much you spend on your Z anyways? You're gonna get sucked in no matter what engine you choose.

Nice Can you imagine paying close to $1000 for an oil change

The enzo was probably causing most of the traffic That's pretty rare to see one on the road. How many are in the US anyways?

Congratulations Mike Those are impressive numbers. 60 ft is killer. Are you using CVs with the R230?

You don't have to swap drive shafts unless you are swapping to a t5 tranny or vice versa.

Pinging or detonation is caused by running too hot. A lean fuel mixture is one way to cause the engine to run hot. Combine that with increased intake temps by not running an ic and you got a explosion waiting to happen. The excessive heat and pressure causes the air/fuel mixture to autoignite.

I don't know if it will work but you could try any of the german cars that use bosch L-jetronic. They're probably all about the same size though. Are you having trouble with your air filter location?

V10 F1 engine screaming at 15000 rpm Ferrari V12 Turbo V8 CART engine

Turbo S30 here in san jose. You've got my old 327 Z

Way to go marlins Yankees Suck

15psi on a stock t3 is getting pretty damn hot. You can do the math and get it enought fuel but why risk it with that hot air. Consider the IC insurance.

Here a link with instructions. It's for a GN so ignore the wire colors. I did this 2 weeks ago and its working out great. Gives you a consistent voltage to the fuel pump. You could also wire in a switch so no one can steal your car. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/electrical/relay.html

You should use motors to open and closed it. That way it could be automated and you can control it with a remote control along with the lights.

My bad...I assumed you dropped it in a 240 already. Here's a decent one for sale in san jose http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/17665679.html

Cyrus - where in Hayward are you? I'd like to come check out your project.

Mike, I just noticed the same thing today at lunch. The nut was all the way loose. Makes sense cause I did notice I was getting more freeplay on the clutch pedal than before. I didn't get a chance to readjust the length cause the rod that has the cottor pin seemed to be stuck. I'll try and readjust it after work. I'm sure that will fix it. The leak I had on the inside of the firewall was minor. I tighten the MC bolts and that seemed to go away.

Thanks Tim. That's what I suspected. I'll have to find a way to somehow add some stiffners.

I just caught a part of the NOPI tv show (I know it sucks but there was nothing else on) and they briefly showed a ford focus with a V8 swap. I just thought it was a nice conversion. No one would ever suspect a V8 under the hood of a focus.

That IC must have been huge before you cut it down. It's still huge as is. You've got a nice setup there. I like the twins

I can attest to the ECU trick. My car was falling flat at WOT and was getting progressively worse during the week. Today I cleaned the AFM and ECU connectors and now all is well . Gotta love it when it's that simple.

I started having clutch problems last week. Basically it is not fully disengaging and I have a hard time putting it in first. First I thought it was the hot weather cause thats when it started acting up. The MC is close to the turbo too. I replaced my MC and slave in march when I put in my ACT clutch so I bled the fluid and put in the synthetic fluid. Didn't help. After inspecting the MC I found that fluid was leaking down the inside of the firewall. What would cause the MC to fail prematurely? I don't want to keep replacing master cylinders. BTW my firewall flexes when I press down the clutch pedel.

Nice dual exhaust

Thanks guys. I'll try that tommorrow.