ktm

Seriously?! That seems like a gawd awful amount of timing. What about temperature issues with that much timing? When I looked at my pistons after I pulled them, they showed signs of running too hot (per a few speed shops I went to and my browsing on the net). The skirt areas were all scraped from contact with the cylinder walls. I was running leaner as well at cruise (15.5+) and around 41 degrees of timing. I've since richened it up to 14.5 and pulled timing to around 38 degrees.

I did not mean to come across as condescending in my post. However, you asked a question that made it seem like you did not understand why higher pressure caps are used. As I stated in that post, I am now running an Arizona Z Car cross-flow aluminum radiator, continue to use distilled water with Water Wetter, and installed an LD28 water pump. Recent observations indicate that my problems are solved.....for now. It's winter here (50 to 70 degrees F during the day) so the car will naturally run cooler. However, my temperatures are much more stable when cruising and drop quickly after a hard run. Tony cited Electromotive's car as an example of a high horsepower race vehicle using water and a high pressure cap. Jeffp and Timz are both making over 3 times the power of your N/A L28 and have opted to use Evans due to its higher boiling point. However, that (should based on theory) mean that they are operating at a higher thermal equilibrium due to heat transfer inefficiencies compared to water. Wait, you made a statement that your car is running hotter AFTER swapping out the 160 degree T-stat for a 190 degree T-stat. Did you ever change them back? Of course the car will run hotter in the summer with a 190 degree T-stat. Tony, the cap and t-stat are new additions, as are the LD pump and aluminum radiator. Things are looking good.....for now.

I am using the 20 psi Motorad cap that came with my Arizona Z Car aluminum radiator. I can buy 16 psi caps at my local autoparts store any time. Yes, yes we do understand why we are doing it. Do you understand the Ideal Gas Law and the affects of pressure on water's (coolant) boiling point? Increasing the pressure increases the boiling point of the liquid. Just because I have a 20 psi cap does not mean that my system reaches 20 psi. Read Tony D's posts carefully and let it sink in. If your cooling system is able to reach thermal equilibrium at, say, 10 psi system pressure, then your pressure will not exceed 10 psi. Your radiator cap will not vent the excess pressure because there is no excess pressure. Your 13 psi cap allows the system to reach 13 psi thereby increasing the boiling point of your coolant. The higher the rating of the cap, the higher the thermal equilibrium threshold. Read this: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm No. It's to raise the boiling point of the coolant.

How do you know the rings are toast? I was running over 22 psi on a stock block.

My Z32 tranny already had a VSS sender. I simply reused that one once I got the speedo. Prox and I sourced a mechanical sender for the Z32 tranny to use with the stock speedo. I saved the VSS sender for the day that I went with an electronic speedo.

You're right. I was too quick in looking at the flywheel as well as his statement about it being an aftermarket unit.

All L28 Fidanza's are the same.

That is how a car should be. I would hate to have a car that I am afraid to drive. I say that with some chagrin because I am afraid to drive my car. Damn thing eats parts like a Sumo wrestler breaking a fast.

Looks like a Fidanza.

Whoa, you completely misunderstand the design of that catch can. You attached one end to the vent cover OR the crank case and the other to the atmosphere, intake manifold or turbo inlet, depending on the source. If you connect it to the manifold and you are running a turbo, you still need a PCV valve. If you want a single catch can for the crank case and the valve cover, you need one with a filter. However, if you want to apply a vacuum to the catch can, you will typically run two catch cans and two vacuum sources. A typical setup is valve cover and turbo inlet, crank case and intake manifold with PCV. What you are not addressing is the rather crappy design of the unit pictured as well as the Greddy units. None of them have internal baffles. They are simply cans with fittings and a sight tube. You really need to have the inlet and vacuum source separated by a baffle.

Some of us modified the heads to address the stagnant cooling pockets. You can also run a different coolant solution such as Evans to help with the localized boiling. I am not advocating on solution or another. I was incorrect in stating that a waterless coolant was not the solution. What I was trying to confer is that you need to identify the source of your temperature issues before deciding on an apparent fix. What is your engine build? CR ratio? Aluminum radiator? etc. I am still sorting out my cooling issues too. I recently installed new gauges, an LD water pump and an Arizona Z car aluminum radiator. The 50 mile drives I've taken have shown me that I barely break 170 degrees when cruising (160 T-stat) on a 75 degree day; on colder days it is slightly over 160 degrees. Your timing may be inappropriate for your build. I know you referenced BRAAPs post, but every car is different. Some like more timing, others less. Some like to run rich, others are happy leaner. Fueling differences between here and Oz may be a contributing factor. I learned the hard way that you can not take a blanket statement like BRAAP's and think that you are safe to apply it. What I did not see is whether you verified timing at the higher RPMs. Sure, your idle timing may be ok but your mechanical advance may be off. What is your timing at 3000 rpms?

Update: I finally calibrated the speedometer today. It is very easy and quite accurate. Simply follow the provided instructions. I scoped out the requisite 2 miles a few days before calibrating the speedometer. The roads around here do not have mile markers so I was using landmarks. Once I got my two landmarks set, I waited until today to calibrate it (on my way to Irvine's Cars and Coffee). You do not have to maintain a constant speed, simply follow the instructions and get the speedometer into calibration mode. Once calibrated, I tested its accuracy with a GPS system. I know the GPS to be accurate (enough) as I tested it out in my daily driver and it was spot on. After calibrating the speedo and comparing it to the GPS, I was approximately 0.5 to 1 mph off.

A waterless coolant is not the solution. Water is the best coolant, all of the other products simply have a higher boiling point.

Your timing is off. Adding fuel does very little for detonation resistance assuming that you are already tuned for boost. By that I mean if you are already tuned for an AFR of 12 to 12.5, adding more fuel will not help. You need to start pulling timing. Do not simply pull 1 degree and try again, but rather pull 5 degrees. Start low and work your way higher, not the other way around. I learned the very hard way trying to tune for California 91 octane. It acts more like 89 octane and my map was setup (based on others here) for 91 octane. As a result I blew quite a few head gaskets due to aggressive timing.

Let's not bring up this car in this thread. Look in the Tool Shed (unless the thread was deleted) regarding member's comments on this car. Keep in mind the audience that likes that car.....

More ideas need to be suggested and then a poll created. The top 2 or 3 designs should then be picked based on the results. You could easily be talking about a month to get the designs approved and selected.

Remember folks, anything you come up with needs Superdan's approval.

The original logo looks great, which is why I bought 4 of the stickers and a t-shirt. I agree that just the "HybridZ Engineered to be feared" is fine as well. Keep in mind, though, that these do not sell in huge quantities. Limiting the selection to 1 or 2 will help keep the costs down. Additionally, many of us already bought hoodies, t-shirts, hats, and stickers when Justin was coordinating their production.

Whittie, I can tell you that S12/W calipers require the spacer to clear the wheels themselves. I also needed the spacers to help with my tire clearance (245/50).

Is this a trick question? Gold all the way!

I suggest doing some basic research (just for fun) about engines in general. A larger fuel pump has NO bearing whatsoever on how much fuel is supplied to the engine (assuming that everything is already sized correctly). A higher capacity fuel pump simply flows more at a given pressure than a smaller pump. The larger flow requirements for a pump are dictated by the engine. The engine requires XX amount of fuel at peak torque, so you size the fuel injectors accordingly. The amount of fuel required at peak torque also determines the flow requirements of your fuel pump. Many people "upgrade" their pump on a stock L28ET just because. It does absolutely nothing for them in terms of performance. The stock ECU has a set fuel table based on the stock injectors. The ECU tells the injectors to stay open a given amount of time based on the AFM and RPM (assuming this part here) based on the flow rating of the injectors. Now, if you increase the flow rate of the injectors by over 50%, the ECU does not know this. It will still tell the injectors to stay open for the same amount of time. In other words, you will be supplying 50% more fuel than you need. This is why people tweak the AFM or lower the fuel pressure to compensate for larger injectors. These are all band aid fixes. The real solution is to use a stand-alone setup like MS.

You said the HG only had 6-7 miles on it. Did you re-build the engine? You said that there was a 1mm over bore, while not drastic it is an increase in volume and your fuel map may need to be adjusted accordingly. In other words, you may have been lean afterwards if you used the same map. Maybe a slightly leaner mixture coupled with dyno runs caused the detonation that would not have normally occured under normal circumstances. It's hard to say.

Joel, what heat wrap is that? Thanks!

Nope. It has 6 uniform width slots. Refer to the second picture in this link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132982 Those of us running the Wolf V500 drill a synch hole next to one of the slots to identify that slot as #1.

Thank you for the compliment. If you look at how I mounted the three where the heater controls used to be, I have them rotated so that I can see the relevant information. I struggled with the decision to use the angle rings but decided not to as I did not like the look. The voltage gauge was rotated 90 degrees so that 14 volts was straight down. The water temp and fuel gauges were rotated 180 degrees; this put 180 degrees on the water temp gauge straight down. You can clearly and easily see everything from the driver's position. The fourth picture gives you an idea of the view. Thanks! What I did not write about was how I had to modify the high beam signal for a 240z. The 240z switches grounds when operating the lights and high beams and the speedo gauge high beam indicator wants a +12 v signal. I simply wired up a relay that used the 240z high beam wire as the ground for the relay and the dash light wires as both the relay switch and power wires. They are the regular blue. I was worried that the Cobalt blue would be too dark. What is your concern? I use my Innovate LC-1 and LMA-3 aux box for tuning. The gauge just helps me spot issues when driving. It is very responsive and reacts quickly to transient changes. I have yet to calibrate the speedo. I just paced the 2 measured miles they require to calibrate the speedo. I plan on calibrating it this weekend. It seems easy enough. As for the fuel sender, that is an oddity. I am going to call them tomorrow and inquire if the gauge is setup for the typical ranges and you simply cycle between the them. I set my high level already and need to drive a bit to empty the tank before setting my low level.