ktm

You seem all set in your mind that the fire ring was within the cylinder. It most likely was not. You need to look for the obvious answers first, not the esoteric explanations. Rejracer gave a great explanation as to what you are seeing when coupled with Paul's description of detonation. The detonation you experienced could have been brought about by: carbon build-up on the valves or pistons in the cylinder; too hot of a spark plug; transient lean condition caused by a loss of fuel (voltage fluctuation at the pump, clogged injector, clogged filter, etc.); too much timing advance; engine temperature too hot (especially since you are a dyno - 12 pulls!); bad gas; etc. It's the detonation you don't hear that you need to worry about such as this case. I've seen my fair share of blown head gaskets!

This is not yet another post your car thread. This is a "I wish my car would look like this" thread.

An utterly amazing build. Doing an engine swap is easy, it's the details that take forever! I noticed in this picture that you have a SS braided line passing through a metal bracket without protection. It is located directly below the catch can in this picture. I see elsewhere that they went through great pains to protect the braided lines with sheathing, grommets, etc.

Look at it this way. If a combustion cycle happened once every 10 minutes, then the engine temperature would not get much hotter beyond ambient. The more frequently you have a combustion cycle, the less time there is for the engine to shed heat. At 1000 rpm, you have 16.7 combustion events per second; at 6000 rpm you have 100 combustion events per second.

It's the turn signal stalk with accompanying switches that mounts to the steering column on the other side of the combo switch. Thanks!

Nice Eric, so you gonna help me install my Bad Dog rails too? Your engine build is making me jealous. I seriously considered buying your old setup but Polly would kill me.

Thanks. It seems odd that there is a price differential, but there is. It was driving me nuts as I could not see why there would be a physical difference in the sensors.

Eh, not really (to the part in bold). I've used POR15 quite a lot and the POR peeled off by hand very easily in areas where it was layed over bare, unetched, unrusted metal. You need to etch all the metal when using POR (per their instructions). Sanding it prior to etching will help with the bond.

Subie powaaaah! Did you notice they were (nearly) all wagons?

I like the look of that power distribution block. Where did you buy it?

Thanks for the compliments all. Ron, I have not had a chance to test it out yet. I had to replace the battery Monday and I finished up wiring on Sunday. It is forecast for rain for the next few days so it may be early next week before I can test it out. I'll drop you a PM when I do and let you know. I had a G3 and liked it very much, but it started to fail on me. It would read correctly for the first 5 minutes, then it would either read too lean or too rich across the board. However, the LC-1 was reading correct per my LMA3 and per Wolf's wideband display. The Z horn button is from MSA and is setup for the Grant steering wheels. The steering wheel is a Grant Evolution GT wheel the best I can tell. I picked it up new at a Dime swap meet near Pomona about 4 years ago for $50.

I would rank their install as a 3, at least for me. I've done quite a bit of wiring in my car (installed the EMS myself, etc.) and this was incredibly easy. Nearly everything is pre-wired, you just need to find taps for ignition hot, ground and dash lights. I used the existing wires for the coolant temp and fuel senders, the rest of the gauges came with their own sensors and harnesses. It is just time consuming if you want to do it right.

The Revolution series are around $120 to $170 per gauge; the speedometer is approximately $220 and the tachometer around $200 if I remember correctly. The Speedhut series is approximately $80 per gauge but is limited to volt, temp, and fuel. Autometer mechanicals run $50 to $60 per gauge and their electrical gauges are generally the same price as Speedhuts. However, Speedhut's gauges (all their gauges) use high speed stepper motors and the Revolution series have programmable warning lights. Autometer's gauges with the warning lights run $200 and their high speed stepper motor gauges are over $200 each as well. The Speedhut gauges are fully customizable, from font color, font type, dial color, pointer color, etc.

Sooooooo, after seeing a few folks with Speedhut gauges and realizing that I really needed to upgrade my stock gauges, I opted to purchase a set of Speedhut gauges. I purchased a total of 8 gauges: Revoluation 4-in. 160 mph speedometer with integrated turn signals and high beam indicator, Revolution 4-in. 8000 rpm tachometer with integrated shift lights, Revolution 2-1/16 AFR gauge, Revolution 2-1/16 Boost/Vac gauge, Revolution 2-1/16 Oil Pressure gauge, Speedhut 2-1/16 water temp gauge, Speedhut 2-1/16 fuel level gauge, and Speedhut 2-1/16 volt gauge. I opted for 2-1/16 for a consistent look and I wanted to mount them in the stock gauge pods. I created a custom replacement panel where the heater controls are located for the water temp, volt and fuel level gauges. The AFR, boost and oil pressure gauges went in the original gauge locations. The Speedhut gauge package is incredibly nice. They come with all the sensors you need, harness with plugs, and a daisy chain setup for the gauge volt, ground, and light supplies. I was thoroughly impressed with their setup and believe that they are well worth the money. The oil pressure gauge is 1/8-npt. All you need is a 1/8 bspt male to 1/8 npt female adapter. Autometer has this adapter and it is readily available through Summit Racing. The Speedhut water temp gauge is similar to the stock gauge and operates based on a single wire resistance arrangement. You must use their sensor, however, as the gauge is setup for that sensor. You need to purchase a 16 MM metric to 1/8 npt female adapter. Again, Autometer carries these and they are readily available through Summit Racing. The AFR gauge is setup to use either an Innovate LC-1 or Dynojet wideband. It comes from the factory setup for the LC-1. However, you can input your own voltage relationships and the instructions tell you how. Now for the pictures:

No, you did not search "wheel offset". If you searched "wheel offset" in Google, then you would understand what positive and negative offset mean. Why, lookie here: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=wheel+offset&aq=f&oq=&aqi=g7g-s1g2

Search Google for wheel offset if you do not understand the concept. Teach a man to fish and all......