ktm

I am at 22 psi and use 7s. Magnecor plug wires are great (I am running a set as well)m but they are a little pricey. I paid $80 for mine, and they are only 6 inches long, tip to tip.

I dyno'ed 390 ft-lbs to the wheels in July with tuning issues. Based on my comparison of accelerometer readings since that time, I am making a bit more power (maybe 410ish ft-lbs at the wheels). This is all through 6 bolts on the pressure plate.

I picked mine up from Radioshack and it is working fine with both Wolf and Innovate.

MSA is now selling a "smooth" version of the ZG flare without the bolt cutouts.

I am only running 6 holes on my pressure plate.

The dowels set the alignment of the pressure plate on the flywheel. The pressure plate can only be attached one way, once the dowels are lined up correctly. The spacing between the dowel hole and the nearest bolt holes varies, which is how they set the alignment. I've been running the pressure plate using just the 6 bolts without issue, and I am putting down a fair amount of torque.

I finally fired up the car today after ACT fixed my pressure plate. I was waiting for my downpipe to be ceramic coated. The pressure plate functions perfectly. I had forgotten how easy it should be to shift into first and reverse.

Ron, Very nicely done. I hope this will bring more Wolf users into the 'pack'. Wolf is very easy to use and configure, and its flexibility is outstanding. The transient modifiers are "nice" features to have but are not essential. The two most useful ones are acceleration enrichment and overrun fuel cut (for instance, throttle lift down a hill and the injectors stop firing).

How did I miss this?! Happy belated birthday Ron!

Folks, 89 mm pistons. It is not a stock bottom end so I would not compare it to a stock turbo F54 with an 86 mm bore. Very nice numbers though.

Mark, calling you now.....pick up the damn phone. The trim I was referring to in our earlier conversations can be found at Fuel - Fuel Modifiers - Trims You will see a slew of radio buttons. In the upper right hand corner you will see an Overall Fuel Trim. Just click on the knob and rotate to 10%, or you can find the same trim in the table at the bottom and manually type in 10%. The initial start settings are fine at 6 ms. Wolf will automatically compensate for colder temperatures using the Engine and Air Temperature tables. You may want to modify the post-start enrichment settings though.

Looking good! When will the E85 injectors start spraying? Will it be a progressive delivery with the 240s up to a threshold (5 psi or so)?

Welding beads would not help because the rivets stretched. Welding would only hold the rivets in place but it would not address the stretching issue. I can not say whether or not ACT would repair the pressure plate under "warranty". They stated to me that the rivets should not fail. They were obviously aware that their design was deficient otherwise why would they change it.

Not really. I mentioned that my failure should be fairly common place and if they had received other complaints. The individual I spoke to said that he was not aware of this being a systemic issue. Keep in mind that my pressure plate failed with less than 1000 miles on it. Others may have failed after 5000 or 10000 miles. At that time the clutch was swapped out as part of a overhaul, upgrade, etc.

Resolution - I dropped my pressure plate off at ACT this morning. After they inspected the pressure plate, they repaired it by the afternoon and I was able to pick it up on my way home. The forensic analysis of the failure revealed that the rivet design was to blame. The rivets were hollow compared to the redesigned pressure plate that uses solid rivets. The diameter of the rivets remained the same. The old, hollow rivets actually stretched and necked down, which is why they were loose. ACT handled this issue very professionally. I trust they will do the same for you Prox.

The rivets in green. If those are loose, then the diaphragm spring is not being held in place and can move. ACT confirmed that loose rivets would cause a travel/disengagement issue.

I finally tracked down my disengagement issue with my ACT heavy duty pressure plate and modified street disc clutch. The symptoms were as others experienced, the slow degradation of the disengagement of the clutch. I first thought it my master cylinder so I swapped it out. I then swapped out my slave cylinders. I thought I was not bleeding the lines correctly and bled the bejeezus out of them and even made my own pressure bleeder. I dropped the tranny and swapped out the fork, pivot ball, bearing, and collar. No dice. It was not getting any better. As a matter of fact, it was worsening. The clutch would only partially disengage and getting into reverse and first were getting harder and harder. I remembered when I dropped the tranny that I was feeling around on the pressure plate for anything that may be loose. I noticed that the rivets on the face of the pressure plate that hold the diaphgragm spring rings were loose, but thought nothign of it. I called up ACT today and confirmed that those damn rivets were the issue. The diaphragm spring needs those rivets to be tight as it is hend in place by them. All of the rivets are very loose. I bought the clutch last June and eventhough I am out of the warranty period, ACT stated that they would most likely cover it since a failure of this kind should not occur. I hope this helps someone.

Daeron, I fully intend to use the original face plates because I, too, really appreciate the look and feel of the original gauges. The issue I am facing right now is retaining the high beam indicator and turn signals due to the relative location of the circuit board on the Z32 gauges. Also, the speedo is every so slightly different. My 1977 speedo goes from 10 to 160 mph and sweeps an arc around 1600 degrees or so. The Z32 speedo goes from 0 to 160 and sweeps around 150 degrees.

www.stealthmodeperformance.com already has a BSPT-NPT-NPT-BSPT adpater. It has one BSPT male end that threads into the block, one BSPT female for the oil pressure sender, and two female NPTs for AN fittings and the like. You can also pick up a -3 SS braided line for the oil feed as well as the AN fittings too.

If you read one of my initial repsonses to your question, I clearly stated exhaust pressure as a possible culprit and the fix. The exhaust gas pressure can exceed boost pressure, especially at 15 psi. I fixed this problem (running a 15 psi WG at 22 psi) by using an external spring on the WG actuator arm.

"to confirm that a 'boost' in octane will also solve my detonation issue." Well DUH.

LC-1. You do not need a DB gauge, nor do you need ANY gauge, if you are logging with Logworks. You can pick up a G2 or G3 gauge and LC-1 fairly resonably. You will still need an RPM converter though. I am personally using an LC-1, G3 gauge, and LMA-3 auxbox. The auxbox has a built in MAP sensor, RPM input, EGT/CHTS input, and accelerometer. It can log 6 channels simultaneously. I am logging AFR, EGT, MAP, RPM, accelerometer, and my methanol pressure sender. You can customize any of the 5 other channels to log what you want via the inputs.

I just gutted a Z32 cluster I found at a junk yard. I pulled the speedo and tach and test wired up the speedo for now. It works like a charm. The speedo and tach boards are small enough to fit into the stock gauge housings. Now that I know it works, I am going to install the speedo and tach into my stock gauge housings. I am trying to figure out a way to retain the Z32 odometer and trip meter though.

Have you checked your waste gate bracket to make sure that it can not move/flex? Have you tried adding a spring to the waste gate actuator arm? Eventhough you have an MBC, there are two pressure sources acting on the WG arm: manifold pressure and exhaust gas pressure. The MBC is taking care of the manifold pressure, but the exhaust gas pressure can be very high itself (upwards of boost pressure or even higher). If the WG bracket is not rigid or if the spring is relatively weak, the puck can open up prematurely. Did I read that right, 10 degrees of timing at 13.8 psi!?!? Also, your timing is a bit retarded as well. Many folks (not in California) running a L28ET engine are around 22ish degrees of timing at 15 psi. Your AFRs are still FAR too rich from 11.7 psi on. As I, and many others, have stated early on, there are a number of factors that can cause boost delay such as you are seeing.