datman

I had an over heating issue with my Z, I cleaned the rad and block with a descaling solution, ducted my Intercooler and spoiler so the air could only go through the IC and Rad rathe than around or under it. I also added a bottle of water wetter and changed the thermostat to an 82 deg type. Now the water never goes above 85 c (185f) Here is a shot of the ducting, a little crude right now but it does the job

I've searched but not been able to find any info regarding up rated engine mounts to fit an l28 engine. Does anyone know if they are available? Thanks

Yes I think he has some chart on his MOTEC ecu to control the solenoid at certain TP. He also keeps the throttle open 30deg and cuts the spark or fuel to keep the turbo spinning....it's a bit of an animal to drive. 470BHP out of a 1.8 Audi engine...that's de-tuned to lower it 470bhp! Previoulsy he tried an offset throttle body on the inatke side of the turbo, unfortunately his turbo didn't have carbon seals and sucked a lot of oil into the intake...not good

Here is my MS setup file. Engine is pulling like train from low down all the way to max rpm. It's so powerful most of the time I only need 60% throttle to scare myself! L28 F54 .5mm oversized flat top pistons, standard NA cam (UK) N42 intake manifold, 60mm throttle body Pallnet fuel rail rochester low imp 650cc injectors 2.5bar fuel pressure at 100kpa MSII REV. 2.6 EDIS 6 Holset HE351CW (HY35) 3" IC pipe work . 600x300x75 FMIC Bosch open element IAT sensor 3" stainless exhaust, single straight thru back box. Still have to fine tune timing and afr's sept9thbest.zip

I'm running a NA F54/p90 with .5mm over size flat top pistons, 2mm steel head gasket giving a CR of 8.35:1. Running 10psi boost at the moment and it's crazy fast!!

Tony, funny you should talk about electronic control of a BOV, My brother has set his race car to use his brake servo as a vacuum resevoir..this connects to his BOV via a 3 way solenoid valve...the solenoid valve is controlled by the ECU to open the BOV before the throttle shuts to keep the turbo spinning and response high out of corners. This was his idea.....I not entirely sure how he has it plumbed in.

Yes I'm using MSII. Control is set to speed density, injections per engine cycle 2. Injector staging alternating.. 4 stroke, 6 cylinders, port injection, 6 injectors, even fire. 2 Megasquirts ? huh? no just the one ...I only have one engine fitted At my fuel pressure my injectors work out at 51.53 lb/hr, very close to the set you have

Here's a shot of my advance table

I have 650cc injectors running 2 squirts alternating. Idles at 14.5:! wih no problems. Timing at idle around 15 deg. 35kpa. inj opening time 1ms pwm current limit 30%, pwm time threshold. 1ms. injector pwm period 50u sec. required fuel 7.1 Fuel pressure 2.5bar at 100kpa

The Demon as in "tweeks" ?

The first TV series back in theearly 80's was the best. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hisEMGMn1mU

Thanks Tony, I'm 30mtrs above see level here (pretty low) The air is nice and cool and my MAT hardly goes above 22deg C even under 10psi boost. The fuel I use is unleaded 99 ron...100 ron is available at some petrol stations but 99 is everywhere, expensive in comparison with your Gas..right now its around 1 pound (GBP) a litre. 4.55 Ltr to the Gallon (UK) so thats about 10$ a gallon.

Thanks Wizzard and Tony. I'll modify my timing now I have that info. My map tells me I have 30kpa at idle.

Noise from the ignition coil caused me a few problems, most of the noise was from my injectors though so I had to cut the supply pins on the drive transistors and power them from a source outside the MS unit itself. My injectors are low impedance though so that's probably not the problem you have.

looks like your RPM spikes are causing the VE and AFR to spike, Try placing a car stereo style filter on the supply line to the MS

"because many stock cars have restrictive intake systems, it is not at all unusual to record a manifold vacuum of 4 - 5hg (more than 2psi) at wide open throttle. Therefore, when we add some form of supercharging to a car like this, anymanifold pressure higher than -4hg will in effect be boost pressure, and fuel mixture will begin to become lean long before manifold pressure climbs above 0psi. I guess I could just unhook the intake from the IC log a drive at WOT and see what kind of map reading I have. Or...is this not necessary and I'm missunderstanding the whole thing? (probably )

Not according to Mr Bell it's not

After sorting a few problems I have my car running really well. I do have a question about boost/timing though. How do you know when you are actually pushing air into the engine rather than it sucking it? I assumed that anything over 100kpa or 0 on my bost gauge was boost but this is not the case, If an engine has poor flow and restrictive manifolds it be pushing air before reaching 0, if this is the cse do I start retarding timing the crossover point? Is there an easy way to measure this? Thanks Oh, obviously I am talking about Turbo engines

Try connecting 1 injector to each bank at a time with the MS wired up to the car. Just run a couple of wires from the injector outputs up to the injector. The injector will need 12v on one side and the MS output will be Ground (switched)

Tach doesn't work as I'm using EDIS, I reda somewhere about using 3 diodes to connect it, will try soon. The brake light is faulty, the wire at the switch keeps touching ground. I have all new brakes/lines/master cylinder. I had my laptop on showing RPM.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=jaLGlVGA2uo video with sound. Knocking noise was coming from injectors/fuel rail down fuel line to hard fuel line fixed to bulkhead which is why I could only hear from inside the car. Had me worried!

I found the cause, I got a plastic tube, held one end to my ear and went all over the engine listening for the knock....the only place was the fuel rail which just so happens to be fed by a steel braided line from an alloy hard line fixed to the bulkhead. I would never have thought the knocking of injectors could sound like that. Well at least it wasn't a big end

I've noticed a knocking noise on my new engine but can't figure out the cause. It speeds up with rpm but is a bout 3rd of the RPM speed. You can hear it insdie the car but not in the engine bay. You can hear it in this video from 1 min onwards. Any ideas? I hope its not too serious. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-Tun4UG6a0o

I'm a little concerned about a knocking noise....it speeds up with rpm but is not as fast as rpm . You can just about hear it in this video from 1min onwards. Strange thing is you can only hear it insdie the car not in the engine bay http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-Tun4UG6a0o

No expert but I set my ve map up to 220kpa ...100kpa is atmospheric sea level so 200 would be 1 bar or 14.7psi of boost. So I guess thats about 17.6 psi max on the chart, I think it will use the last enty as a value if you go over that. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99689 check out post #32 Dave has his Map and Rpm values set up well.