datman

No sound for some reason...play ok on the one I have on my pc but I think there is a Codec problem with the copy I made for youtube.....the sound is the best bit. I will try and sort it this evening. Try the Spec 11lb flywheel and 6 puck sprung clutch....I've got one and its great! Talk to David at Spec, he will sort you a good price. David Norton > S.P.E.C., Inc > 800-828-4379 > fax: 205-491-8593

Great job! I'm at the same point as you...megalogging drives...only at 10psi so far but it is so fast its scary....4th gear from 40 to 100 is like a rocket. What spec have you got?

Took the car for a quick drive, running great now http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=KhmqRSng7q4 ArrrGhhh!!! damn missing codec, no sound.

Yo Aaron, hows things? you got the Z back on the road yet?

Well I fixed the RPM spike by cutting the middle pins on q9 and q12, joining them to a wire and taking that wire to a 12v source before the voltage filter that feeds the megasquirt. This stops the noise from the injectors reaching the MS. This mod is listed on the Megasquirt forum. I still have some noise on the temp signal but only a small amount. Even at 6psi it is amazing how powerful an l28 can be.

I need some help to cure my RPM spike, I have added a filter to the +12 feed of the megasquirt which stopped most of my spikes. The single wire temp sensor was giving me problems so I have a fixed value resistor in the temp connector to give a 70deg C value until I find the cause. The alternator seems to be causing a lot of noise so I unplugged it, Now most values are stable except for the occasional RPM spike which is causing the engine to stumble on acceleration. I have shielded cables for PIP and Saw, new heavy gauge cable for power supply to the megasquirt and relay board. Can anyone shed some light on the problem? My setup is as follows: l28 F54/P90 Megasquirt II PCB 3 EDIS 123 INJ1 456 INJ2 Alternating Holset H3351CW Low imp injectors (2.1ohm) The car is running great apart from this damn spike, when I disconnected the alternator I unplugged the regulator....would there be any noise still coming from the main power cable with the field unplugged? Here is a log from today. Thanks for looking! sunday26thaug2.zip

It has a T3 flange so will bolt onto standard manifold, the exhaust exit is 4" so you will need to reduce that gradually to fit your exhaust ?(bigger the better) On the intke side you will need to remove the small pins that stop the compressor side from rotating, you can then rotate the housing to the correct position, this is why you need to fab a bracket to hold the actuator as you will need to cut existing bracket off the housing in order to get it to fit. Once you have it in the right place you will need some reducers and various lengths of pipe to connect it. Its pretty easy if you have all the bits. If you're keeping the engine standard the Holset wil be a bit of an overkill

The wastegate is adjustable by turning the thread (like you said) The wastegate on the Holset can be ported several ways...it's very easy to take the exhaust housing off and take it to a machine shop, ask them to bore the hole out to just under the size of the puck that blocks it. You could do it yourself but it will take a lot more work that way. Here is a before and after of the porting on my Holset

I think Hawaiiz is winning the race at the moment!

I think Hawaiiz is winning the race at the moment!

I bought something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Dual-port-Wastegate-Actuator-Turbo-Garrett_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ020QQitemZ300144073040QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW You will then have to Fab up a bracket to hold it (look at BigPhils videos). I also ported my wastegate and can hold 4.5psi at the minimum adjustment.

rtubo930, are you going to drive that car? wow that's some serious rust!

Alfa sure knew how to make engines, I have a 1972 1300gt junior sat on the drive with the same engine in.

The water definitely came out of the rad cap. The cap should have 2 rubber seals but the upper one is missing so when the lower one vents water it spurts out of the cap rather than blowing down the vent hose. Maybe it has the wrong pressure rated cap or the lower coolant hose is collapsing under suction.

I've been taking it pretty easy on my new engine but I have a problem. This evening I lost a couple of litres of coolant from the radiator cap after taking it for a quick spin up the road and back. It didn't overheat and seems to be running fine still. There is no water coming from the exhaust and there are no bubbles showing in the water when I take the cap off and rev it. I also smelt for exhaust in the radiator, checked oil and oil cap for mayo and all were fine. . I took the cap inside to check the spring, placed it on some scales and it starts to release at around 11lbs, as the water wasn't boiling at the time I doubt that was the cause. Any ideas? The head was skimmed, the block was cleaned and checked and it has a steels headgasket with ARP head bolts. Engine is an F54/p90 turbocharged. Completely rebuilt.

The Dash looks good, was it custom or parts used from another make of car?

Amazing!!!!

like these.................

mopar69, they look like Delorean wheels

Why did the US cars only have 4 speed when the Uk 240's had 5 speed from early on. My 72 is factory 5 speed.

As for the wastegate I took the exhaust housing to a local machine shop and asked the guy to bore the hole just under the size of the flap. before and after :

2126 you're car looks fantastic!

Yep that's the same Turbo just called an HE351CW, identical to the HY35 apart from some very minor changes. The black valve on the side can be left in place but disconnected or you can run a PWM signal to it to control the wastegate (boost level). You will need to change the Wastegate actuator though as they dont start to open until 20psi or so.

Same thing happened to me with a brand new holset, I think the pressure once it's running pushes the seals into place as now its fitted to the car I have no problems.

My other Z before and after engine bay pics