datman
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Everything posted by datman
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Its easy to slip but with the light flywheel you need a little extra revs so as not to stall it. I went for the 6 puck with springs so its not as harsh as the unsprung ones. It's rated at 515 ft/lb so I doubt it will slip under load
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1 and 6 2 and 5 3 and 4 Make sure you have MS setting set to rising edge not falling as the manual says.....its wrong. If you like I can take a photo of the plug where the power wires connect.....I had to figure it out as I didn't have the plug so I soldered wires to the pins.
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I have a Spec 11lb flywheel and spec 6 puck clutch...works great...very light on the pedal.
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I run about 16 deg at idle, I have a 2mm gasket also but my l28 was NA making CR of 8.35:1. Using the satndard NA cam works very well with a Holset. At 10psi of boost it will leave pretty much any car standing, at 10psi I think I have around 20 deg timing. No lag that I can notice.
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I think the only IC that is 100% efficient is a water cooled type used on boats, maybe the Sensor needs calibrating.
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Mine runs about 10 deg F above ambient on a 60 deg day I have MAT of 72 under 10psi of boost
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which turbo? want to get best bang for the buck
datman replied to LeX's topic in Turbo / Supercharger
I'm running a 8.35:1 NA f54 with a Holset He351 (HY35) MSII fuel and spark. Paid $350 for it new off ebay, have 300+ HP with no lag.....When I had carbs the car felt really laggy waiting to come on cam. -
Yep you're right I tried it just to make sure....I then changed it back and set the MS to rising edge...adjusted the timing numbers and it all seems fine.
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Ok I chnaged my settings to rising edge and car feels smother but with less power......what if my edis trigger was wired the wron way to start with, would this have then worked better with falling edge setting in MS?
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Thanks for the clear explanation Pete
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No I have low ip injectors, my settings are 1ms, 1ms and 30% i'm just surprised it hasn't caused any issues. My max duty cycle is about 50% at WOT ..the injectors are 650cc's
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I only just thought about this today, I have my injectors wired in 2 banks of 3. In parallel, so they must be around .8ohms and it runs fine! how can this be? I would have thought it would have burnt out the drivers.
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Raining all day here yesterday and my car just wheelspins in 1st 2nd and 3rd in the wet so I have to wait for it to stop.... after reading Tony C's update I can't wait!
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On top of this problem I am having strange things happen when my electric fan is on with the engine off. If I turn the ignition on the megasquirt thinks its cranking due to the fan being right in front of the VR sensor.....needs some kind of shield or grounding the frame of the fan. I guess when the engine is running with the fan on it must be causing problems too.
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Very interesting....I'm having similar issues which I had down to incorrect TDC marking.
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A lot of old l28's here in the Uk, not sure how much it would cost to ship but would imagine it would be less than shipping from the States.
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L26 with an N42 head works out at 8.3:1
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The l enigne calculator is good for standard parts, I used 2mm steel gasket which had larger bores, .5mm oversize New flat top pistons which had a slightly different deck height....it all added up to 8.35:1...the standard l28 with standard gasket and flat top pistons would have a CR of 8.52:1
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No need for forged pistons at that HP..the staock cast ones are good for that if you make sure you have enough fuel and the ignition set right. If you aim for around 8 to 8.5:1 CR then it will drive nicely off boost and respond very well. Fit a turbo oil pump and use ARP crank, rod and head bolts.
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I'm running NA f54 flat top pistons...dropped the CR to 8.35:1 by using a 2mm steel head gasket and p90 head...large intercooler and a Holset turbo is around the 350HP mark. Just keep the inlet charge cool and retard the ignition a little more than the stock turbo you should be fine
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The windtunnel test has been published...
datman replied to Mikelly's topic in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Great work guys. So what's the outcome on the hood vents? nearer the front of the car is better or keep them up near the top? I'm about to fit some so this info would be really helpful. -
Not seen it here in the UK , I will look on ebay.com. Thanks
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If I had a knock sensor then maybe, I think my problem is down to too much advance as My TDC mark is a little vague to say the least.
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You can also buy a switch interface for a pc so when you run MAME(arcade games) you can have joysticks and swicthes control the keystroke. This would be great to wire into a steering wheel that had switches installed.