Mike C

You need to set the idle mixture screws as well as the idle speed. A bog is usually from the sudden introduction of air and not enough fuel at the same time. Do a Google search for adjusting Holleys and you should be rewarded with hours of reading material.

Awesome! I know you've been wating eons...

Nice John! I agree with you 100% how nice it is to have a 9/10 car that drives nice rather than a 10/10 car that pounds the crap out of you!

FAST is the old Fel-Pro fuel injection controller. It is excellent, but pricey.

Complete TPI setups still bring $500 on eBay. Complete means EVERYTHING,however. Get the computer, harness, aircleaner assembly with MAF, manifolds, y-pipe. Base your expense on all that other stuff. The Corvette tube manifolds MIGHT be adaptable to a Z as well. A complete running L98 with all of the accessories is worth at least $500 and 100k on a FI motor is nothing. A decent running carbed 350 bring $350 easy. Just be sure and replace the timing chain. A late 86 aluminum head roller cammed motor would be more desireable, but for $500 or less, the L989 would be an smokin' deal IMO.

Best advice I can offer (and most all will second) is to buy the manual from Jaguars that run. It will answer 99% of your questions. As far as insurance goes, can't say.

There are many different Muncies... There are early 7/8 countershaft, late 1" countershaft. Close ratio with 2.2 first gear, wide ratio with 2.52. Also a reduced angle helical gear in close ratio known as M22. Some late Muncies have 26 spline input shaft. Early ones 10 (I think...) Like Mike said, they will work with either SBC or BBC. The Muncie has the distinctin of being the closest ratio production 4 speed ever made in M21/M22 livery. IME, if it is a close ratio trans you will want at least 3.90 gears which won't make a very driveable car., but $100 is an excellent deal.

Reverse cooled FI motor? A LT-1 is a 350ci motor found in 1970-1972 Camaros and Corvettes. A LT1 is a 350ci motor found in 92-96 Corvettes, 93-97 Camaros and 94-96 Caprice/Impala/Roadmaster. The dash makes a big difference... A 406 LT-1 could be a .030 over 400 block with big valve LT-1 heads and carbureted intake.

Awesome. Everybody needs a parts hauler!

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com from the home page, link to GMC Paul's, he has a GMC decoder I believe. If not, register and post on the 67-72 General Info board your question. Paul and a few other guys can answer for you. This is a good site, but beware that it is not as technically savvy as this board and there are LOTS of teenager types who want to make their truck "louder." No offense to teenager types anywhere meant... What other goodies are on the truck? Leaf or coil? V8 or 6? Inliner on the 305 V6? Two wheel drive or 4? Step or fleetside? Got pics? Here are a couple of shots of my GMC trucks. Eventually hope to have a shorty as well as a Suburban.

A CV halfshaft equipped r200 clutch LSD should handle the power. IF you stay away from clutch dumps and drag tires. If your trans is a WC T5, you can have G-Force build you one capable of 600+ hp. See post in this section on G-Force. Either of the Tremec 5 speeds should be sufficient with the same caveats. Plan on spending at least $5000 to get 500 hp in a "crate" motor. I would look at the GM "fast burn" 385 which is not 500hp, but more than sufficient IMO. Most likely your T5 could hang with this combo as well if you just don't do clutch dumps and speed shifts. In other words, drive it like you own it. A more cost efficient swap is a complete low mileage LT1/T56 combo where you can get 300 wheel hp AND a transmission for about $3000. Less if you really shop and work it or consider a complete wrecked car and offset some of your expenses by parting out the wreck. 500hp is not a point where one should start me thinks, but work up to it mechanically and driving experience wise.

I've considered this as well. You could take 2 1/2" 'vette ram horns and flip them upside down, fab a turbo inlet pipe that goes forward and hang the turbos off the front of the block to the side. This would make intake plumbing to a TPI pretty easy, but intercooling difficult. I have a pair of completely R&R TD04-16G turbos from a Mexican 2.5l dodge car. The compressor maps show them capable of 275 WHP in a 2.8 L6@6k rpm, so should be good for 550 hp in a 350ci V8. I'll sell the pair to you for $500 plus shipping. The turbos have been HTC coated as well. One is totally complete, the other missing the wastegate actuator. Email me for a pic. I've got a set of 300ZX TT intercoolers as well for another $100. They will support 450 whp and you could probably save some money by running the 2" straight dump rams horns. This would be a really trick setup on what would otherwise be a crappy 305.

The Corvette accessory drive works better in the Z as well since a significant amount of fab is required for the Camaro drive. However, the T56 is a better trans choice than the ZF6 if you got the manual trans with it. If not going 6 speed but still want a manual, G-Force can build you a T5 capable of 600hp. Or you can run a Tremec. The 'vette 4L60E will require a new tailshaft housing since it uses a torque arm to mount instead of a traditional crossmember.

That's just too cool. I wish my Z was fast. I'd be willing to run you on my bike, though Scottiemiz... I love my FJ! Best run, 11.57 @ 122. Usually runs 11.60's at 115, but a slight tail wind that day made a HUGE difference in mph. 0-60 in 2.8. I'm real easy with the clutch since I don't want to work on it. I'm surprised that your 1200 gave you back pain? Getting rid of the stock seat for a Corbin makes a big difference. I have a 1200cc Wiseco big bore kit but refuse to take it apart until it nees it, and hopefully with 25k on the clock that will be awhile! My next mod is a set of Performance Machine 320mm floating front rotors, CNC calipers, and polished master. Have them in a box just waiting. I already did the clutch master since my OEM one crapped out. Designed for a 1200, they don't have mirror mounts, but I adapted some GPz 900 mirrors to bolt on with the windshield bolts. Here's a couple of pics, one with the Corbin gunfighter saddle and one with the the gunfighter and lady saddle.

Get a 2+2 or trubo flywheel and the centerforce II turbo clutch. Some of the turbo guys say the clutch is not sufficient, but should more than handle an NA motor. Find an N42 head from a 75-76 ZX to increase compression. (But only if you have an 81-83 flat top motor.) Other than that, they respond to the usual: 2 1/2" exhaust, high flow cat, low restriction muffler. I like Walker Dynomax products. Cold air kit with K&N cone filter, spiral wrapped plug wires, high output coil. Those are some of the cheap and easy mods.

Get yourself an N42 head from a 75-76 280Z. If you can get one cheap will make a tremendous difference in output throughout the rev range from the increased compression.

Scottie, would you clarify: "I lock mine 3 secs after the 2-3 shift which happens about 2.75 secs into the run" I knew your car was fast, but time travel? Wow!

The WC T5 has papercone synchros and roller bearings on the speed gears. These tiny rollers need the thin oil for lubrication. They were designed for ATF and work well with it. The non-wc uses brass ring synchros and bushed speed gears. The 80w90 should be fine. Many people run ATF in the older trans, but IME, shifting is smoother with gear lube.

But not to the same extent. You can't really build boost by free-revving the engine the same way as you can build boost by actually loading up the engine. Just pointing out that just because it is an auto doesn't mean it wasn't hammered on by a boost happy teenager. Since you can't have fun banging gears, all you can do is boost up on the launch!

I think that autos aren't driven as hard may be a myth. One thing to beware, is that many auto cars are stalled up against the converter to build boost. This in turn forces the crank into the thrust bearing for extended periods which can lead to thrust bearing failures, crank wear, and excessive crank endplay. Missed shifts aren't a problem, but the auto car is not impervious to wear and tear and as noted, the wear can be more significant than with a manual. If I was going to spend $1500 plus for a donor, I would want a manual in order to a.) use it. or b.) sell it to recoup some of my investement.

mobythevan, you really think a quad is safer than a dirtbike? I see many more trips to the ER in your future... Well, at least it is an even number of wheels. I REALLY want another dirt bike. Sold my KX250 and had already set my sites on an XR400. Two weeks later, no job. No job=no bike. Fortunately I've paid cash for all my crap or I'd be screwed. Economy ain't gettin' any better around here.

I finally gave up on the turbo option. Around here I couldn't find a donor for less than $1500 and those were automatics. Like everything else, just depends on what you want to do. I agree with Lockjaw. Get a flat top 2.8 and try and find an N42 head. The FI longblocks are usually in excellent shape even with 150k plus miles. The N42 head is square port to use your stock exhaust and will have the bigger valves your E88 doesn't. I bought a 2.8 for my 72, wish it was a flattop, but it is a .040 over dished job. It does have an R&R'ed E88 that has had the bigger valves installed. The real bonus is the triple Del'Lortos. I'm going to run the Nissan T5 with the 3.54 that are in the car and see how I like it. I may eventually do the 3.90, but an LSD 3.70 would be perfect. I go back and forth on the V8 conversion thing, and right now I'm in L6 mode!

250hp will be expensive. REAL expensive. But an electronic ignition conversion, new coil, good wires, 2 1/2" exhuast and K&N air filter makes a pretty darn big improvement. Follow that up with an early 5 speed and some 3.90s and you may change your mind on the V8!

Texas has Antique car plates and they have classic plates. Classic plates have no restriction and can either use new plates labeled as classic or the appropriate year plate after it is inspected by DMV, the vehicle must be 25 years old or older. The cost is same as regular registration for classic plates, about $70 a year. The Antique plates are also for cars over 25 years. They cost $55 for 5 years but you are restriced in driving to "parades, exhibitions, and items of public interest." I have them on my '69 Camaro. At the time (I think it was 95?) I got them, they didn't ask or inspect it for "originality" I had heard rumor that now they want to see it, but I can't verify that.

I have a complete carb set from a 72. Round tops with manifolds that I'll take $100 plus shipping for.