Mike C

If you buy the premium gaskets from a top manufacturer, it's hard to go wrong. I have had good luck with Fel-pro, Detroit, as well as Cometic. The cheapest way out is usually to buy a complete engine set and then add the premium head gaskets, in your case the ones for Al heads.

I like Taylor SpiroPros. However, any of the twisted conductor supression wires will be sufficient. MSD, Mallory, Accel all make such wires. If your current wires are good, it won't make much difference, if they are not, it can make a HUGE difference. Stock wires have something like 5k ohms per foot minimum while spiral wrapped solid conductor wires are 40-50 ohms per foot!

Get the 2.8 and put the 2.6 cam and followers in it. The 280z and 79-80 ZX have dished pistons, the 81-83 have flat tops. If it is a flat top L28, put the L26 head on it. There will be a big difference. I'm not sure which exhasut manifold came on your L28, but you will need to use one that matches the ports on the head. I like the 240 exhaust MUCH better than the 280, but I don't know what the 260 looks like. Mudge had posted a link to cams, and if I remember correctly, the 260 cam was the largest as the 280 cam was about same as the 240 cam.

Just buy the LT1/6 speed combo, then buy an MSD distributor and a Gen II carbureted intake from GM. I've got one I'm planning on using until I have the $ for the Gen 7 DFI. Then you can sell me the wiring and computer cheap!

If the cam is ground advanced, as many are, it may be overadvanced. This would shift the peak power lower. If the Track 1's are stock, you may be having cylinder head flow induced "rev limits". I would start with the Proform degree wheel and check cam timing, although that may well have been done. Calculations show about 486 rwhp, which should be 550 or so at the flywheel which is about all the stock Track 1's are worth. Look at the bright side, the motor will last a lot longer shifting below 7k

Thanks Don. I'm pretty happy with the results, It's a big tire! I'm really interested in running radials on the car, so I may just have to make do with 195 65 15s. That's a little taller than the 195 60's I have now, but no narrower. I've done the bias tire thing and don't like the way the car wiggles, and I've done the MT front runner thing on 3.5" rims as well. Neither are solutions I care for on the street. Your car sounds sweet. Darn good performance for a little motor! Must be spinning it 7500 or so?

The arms on the transmission go up.

Thanks! It has 275 60 15 BFG drag radials on it now. Pretty much a 28 10.5 15, but that's it! At least with how low the car is. The subframe is at least 5" lower than my buddies 68 Firebird drag car that has new OEM springs in it. The wheels are 15 x 8.5 with 4 7/8 backspacing. And it is TIGHT. Rubs a little on the inside f you corner hard, so I guess I need to quit that! It has 4 leaf Z/28 springs that have been dearched in the back with 1 coil snipped off the front. I'd really like to find a taller, skinnier tire for the front without resorting to drag tires or 165 SR 15 VeeDub tires! I like keeping an H speed rating... Right now it has 195 60 15 on 5.5 rim, but they are too short. I have to drive on 2x4 in order to get my floor jack under the crossmember. I'd really like a 185 70 15, but can't find anything like that. 185 65 is the closest, but virtually the same height as the 195. The narrower tire would fit the rim better me thinks. Any recommendation?

Nice! Gives me an excuse to post mine. Bet it's been at least 5 years since I was at the track...

I put a Felpro small race gasket on my LT1 equpped with CNC Heads ported heads to check where the ports were in relation to the gasket, then put the gasket on my shorty headers. The alignment looks excellent, with the round port being larger than the d-port on the heads. With the shorty's short primary tubes my hopes are this will also function as an anti-reversion dam. Don't monkey with the exhaust port. The d ports have excellent flow characteristics, and as long as no part of the header blocks any of the head port, you will be fine. Vizard even suggests slightly larger tubes than port because of the AR effect.

Grumpy, your advice is the same I received from Crane. I called Comp as well to inquire on the polymer gear, but temper their advice to some degree since I know they are trying to sell me a gear... Pete, I am always hesitant to make a mod to the engine block that may prove detrimental in some way. (See below about oil psi.) Also it would be hard to do and keep shrapnel out of the motor, and much easier to replace distributor housing were the mod prove to be ineffective. Noted that a different motor combo, even just initial timing, might negate the effectiveness of the mod due to placement. If a STEEL cam always must use a bronze gear, why do GM and Ford use melonized gears on their STEEL cams? Admittedly they used cast steel and not steel billets, however. Crane also said that they had seen very good results with their billet cams and Ford's melonized gear, but that was not true with GMs gears. Most of this does me no good, however, as I am looking for something that offers a degree of reliability in street driving that I feel is lacking in the bronze gear. I was told to expect at least a 2# reduction in oil pressure at low RPMs with the grooved distributor housing. However, my most likely solution is going to be grooving the distributor, combined with a new bronze gear, at least for the time being. I will carefully measure housing to driveshaft clearance in order to maximize tooth engagement to spread the load. Any more thoughts other than a new cam, which isn't that much more than the $100 polymer gear, long term, that has 4-5 times the life of the bronze, but not more?

The bar kits for 70-72 240's come with new risers that have a kickout on the outside where the sway bar mounts. The 73 model 240s have the Nissan factory sway bar mounts, although the did not come with a rear bar (at least in the US) If you have a 73, the 78 bar will bolt right up.

Anybody have experience running a GM melonized distributor gear with a steel BILLET roller cam? GMs roller cams are CAST steel. Comp has a new polymer gear that is supposed to have 4-5 times the longevity of bronze. Thoughts? The GM gear is $35, the Comp, $99. But a new cam $250...

I assume you checked the dipstick?

What do you have on it now? I'm with Grumpy on this one... There are no disadvantages to running a PCV on the street IME, and the dual breathers should be sufficient as well, but can be messy as you noted. I would go PCV, which is "positive crankcase ventilation" and it does actually put a negative pressure on the crankcase, or behave actively if you will. Not as significant as a vacuum pump, however. The exhaust evac is only effective at reasonably high exhaust flow rates, not good for the street. I think you have a ring sealing issue, however. Time for a leakdown test, or at minimum a compression check. How fast does your oil get dirty looking? 1000k miles? 2000k? How often do you have to add oil?

I really tight setup LSD will not "slip" in wet weather, effectively mimicking the welded rear. The biggest trouble with the welded diff is the front wants to push until throttle oversteer brings it around. Perfect in a road racer, but in a street car you will no longer be able to steer right into a parking space. Looks like you can, then you turn in, and the car winds up behind the car in the next spot! They also pop and chirp the tires in tight turns, and put extra load on halfshafts that they don't need. Quite simply, IMO, DON"T DO IT.

IMO, the carburetor is the deal breaker. Spend the extra money the pressureized enclosure costs towards FI. The only reason forced induction has done well in production cars is because of the electronic engine controls. Carbureted forced induction was fraught with problems.

3" seems like an excessive amount of clearance between the pump and timing cover. One is almost touching (the short pump) and the other should have about 1" clearance. In 1977 GM changed the mounting brackets for the long pump. Where they mount to the manifold is different. It is possible to cut the mounting bracket and not use the edge that goes to the intake, but I would try and get the correct setup. B&M makes an aftermarket upper bracket that doesn't attach to the intake for the long pump. See it in the pic..

Pete is absolutely right, but it can still come down to a preference on how the motor delivers how much power. The 400 is also the only siamesed cylinder production SBC, this is what forces the steam holes. Also, they tend to distort the bores depending on how hot they run. A minor problem in a street car, but ring sealing can be affected negatively in a max output motor. Even with torque plate honing. The larger bore reduces the amount of valve shrouding for more flow, but it also requires more ignition advance because of the larger area the flame has to travel for complete combustion. The bottom line for me is always the bottom line! With that said, you just can't go wrong building a 350. Dollar per dollar the cheapest motor to build anywhere. Cheaper to buy and cheaper to get parts for. Money saved on the short block can be spent on better cylinder heads. This can be the great equalizer if the almight dollar is the determining factor. The 383 can nearly equal the torque output of the 400, but because it uses a cheaper 350 block can be another option. There are advantages to the longer strokes faster piston speed filling the cylinder better. Because of the Zs inherent tire limits, I would be inclined to shift the torque up in the RPM range, and the 350 is better suited to that than the 400. But in the end, it will be your decision to make, most likely on how much money you want to spend.

Buy the book(s) from Jaguars That Run. The books are well worth the $50 the two will cost. They also sell parts if you don't want to fabricate them yourself. The Datsun Z V8 Conversion manual, and the how to swap chevy TBI/TPI book. Then come use the search function for specific questions.

Because of the small bore, it will still be a 307. I guess you could go with a 350 crank and make a "stroker" 307. It would be about 330 ci. My 69 327 was rated at 210 hp, not uncommon. I'd put it back together, bolt on the performer, add an Energizer 266 cam and have fun with it while saving up real $ to build a 355. Work to maximize power in the range the 307 can do well in. The 2500-4500 rpm range. You can think of the 307 as being a better performance design than a 305 since it has a little larger bore, but like I said before, it'll never be a real powerhouse, but 300hp at the flywheel is quite achievable with the 307.

I've seen built 307s that ran great. It has the same bore as a 283 and the same stroke as a 327. As noted, the combination isn't the best, but if you make smart choices, they can be a good, cheap street motor. You are limited to a 1.94 valve, unless you get an exceptional block that would go .125 over. (Very common with the 283 and they would build a 300 ci motor, less likely chance with the 307.) They are a good source for a large journal 3.25 stroke crank to combine with a 350 block to build a large journal 327. Because of the lighter piston combo with the 307, it does require balancing. I had a buddy score a steel 307 crank from a boat motor(!??) Combined with a cast off 4 bolt block he had, built a cheapie 4 bolt main 327.

A lot depends on the displacement you are planning. The E31 is too small a chamber for the flat top 2.8 motor, but would be OK on a dished one. Assuming pump gas drivability. The E31 would be excellent with big valves on a 2.4l motor. The E31 has small valves and bronze seats as well. A better choice would be to get an N42 from a 75-76 280z and just R&R it since it has hardened seats and big valves already along with the square ports.

Grumpy's advice is spot on. I have had BAD luck with the blue, orange, and red sealers. Permatex Black is the only one I use anymore. For the gaskets themselves, I brush both sides of each with GM gasket sealing compound. Comes in a can with a brush from your friendly dealer. Makes good head bolt sealant as well.

Looks like new headers in your future... Check these out, you can get D port and angle plug along with a cone connection at the collector that eliminates another gasket. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=102154&prmenbr=361 Ceramic coated yet for only $229. Uncoated for $129. Then you can sell your Hookers to somebody with conventional straight plug heads. I don't know anybody who has used them, but eventually I plan on getting a set. EDIT: I saw your post concerning John Scotts 1 3/4 primary shorties with 2 1/2" collectors. Do you think there is any merit to the increased primary size with such a small collector? I don't but have been wrong before... Dynatech makes high dollar headers, and has one with a waisted collector. It seems if you could duplicate this by immediately going from the 2 1/2" collector into a 3" pipe that you might simulate a long tube/large collector header. In his "Building SBC on a budget" book, Vizard has some interesting exhuast thoughts. One that equal length isn't of any real merit, and if you use an expanision chamber early on in the exhaust, that any muffler just appears as tailpip extension to the engine. This doesn't hurt power, but helps eliminate noise. I know you like Vizard, and this is a good book, full of powermaking tips that you should take advantage of as well as 10 different dyno tested combos from 350-406ci.