Mike C

Pete, if you haven't seen Joe Sherman's EngineMasters challenge 604 hp 365 ci pump gas motor, you should really look at it before buying any parts. It was in last months PHR (what real month its labeled as, who knows?) The one with the red 70 GTO on the cover. ACtually, after posting this, went to the site and they have that article on-line now. http://www.enginemasters.com/teardowns.shtml This is the ultimate street motor, pump gas, only 365ci, hydraulic roller, and peak power at 6500 rpm.

I like the CVR from Jegs. The Nippondenso style vs. the Hitachi style although both will work. Some manufacturers have dual flywheel patterns and some don't, CVR does.

Those guys are on the right track. Carburetor works on pressure differential and the positive displacement screws it up. You need to figure out how to get the whole carb in an enclosure so the pressure inside the box is the same as the pressure inside the intake tract. There is still a differential above and below the carb venture so it will meter.

Fantastic info, but one thing more. The current Motorsport T5 is MUCH stouter than the Nissan T5. The WC upgrades and the 2.95 first gear make for nearly 100 lb ft increase in torque capacity over the Nissan T5. Nice thing about the Ford T5 is its junkyard availability for us cheapskates. I wonder if the Nissan bearing retainer would work so that that mod would not be neccessary?

Exclellent. Added to the bookmarks!

stupid double post...

I have contemplated such a swap myself. Seems the Datsun T5 uses many Ford parts. You should have no troubles removing the input shaft and having the length reduced and the pilot sized for the pilot bushing. This will be real easy for a machine shop if you can take them a Nissan input shaft from a T5 for them to duplicate.

Here are a couple of companies to check out: These guys show everything but the pre-'75 trannies: http://www.drivetrain.com/transmanualrebuildkit.html http://www.kdsperformance.com/manrebkit.html http://www.enginetransandparts.com/manuals.htm

Hey Beastz, can I hook up with you sometime and see them in person? Thanks, mc

Amazing! Keep it just the way it is! Wow, 1 of the first 1000 built. For yourself look for a '73. Least desireable of the 240's because of the crappy carbs, but has the later style trans mounts, rear sway bar mount, and relocated diff, then modify to your hearts content!

You won't regret it! I am quite pleased wtih the scissor trusses. It took me so long to build my shop partly because I didn't want to make any compromises. I didn't do all scissor truss because I needed the attic space. 9' walls was also the right thing to do. There is a single door on the back as well for cross ventilation. The room in the back adds tons more storage as well just because it increases wall space. You can store on both sides. The right hand wall is 34' of cabinets using bi-fold closet doors. Here is a pic of one side of the room, the other sides have tools. Above this cabinet is a bookshelf. I'll have to take some better pics.

Depends on where you live as many of the larger metro areas have smog testing and visual inspections. That will be your case. Around here, depends on how lazy the state inpspecter is . What a joke that is, anyhow. Before I went to antique plates on my Camaro I used to get the annual inspection. Guy spends 10 minutes looking at wiper blades then checks brake fluid. Doesn't notice that their is a fuel leak. He puts sticker on car, and I drive around corner, get out leatherman tool and tighten up clamp. But he was SURE my wipers were in good shape, after all, this is TX, 270+ days of sunshine every year. State inspection is just another tax IMO.

Cranking compression can be misleading in many ways... Just do a compression check and make sure that all cylinders are pretty much within 10% of each other rather than worrying about a specific number. But if it is below 120 or above 180 you may have too little or too much compression. Even this is difficult since battery drain can cause the engine to turn slower at the end than beginning. Pull all of the plugs and do the check one at a time. Go to http://www.mortec.com to find out what hard parts are on your motor. If it has ever been rebuilt, all bets are off.

Thanks for the nice comments. I bought my '69 when I was a sophomore in High school. I will have had it 19 years in September. Ouch. I am planning on driving it to my 20th reunion. I'm willing to bet not more than 1 or 2 people there will still have their HS car!

Mike, My 355 runs mid 12's in my Camaro (12.60's), with a CRAPPY 2.0 short time, 110mph trap speed. It weighs 3500# with me in it, so I figure about 365 rwhp. I would think your Z would run 11's? Just guessing that the RWHP #'s come back around 290. Please post as I would like to know. never dynoed my car and except for the carb, it is "as is"I built it in 1988. It would be interesting to strap mine on a dyno. May have to look for a club day around here.

From http://www.zhome.com technical library: 240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180) 240Z 70-73 MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) - non US 240Z 71-73 Auto (3.545) (R180) 260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180) 260Z 74 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280Z 75-76 (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 All With Automatic(3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,4 Seater (3.364) (R200) 280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,4 Seater (3.7) (R200) 280ZX-GL 79 (3.7) (R200) 280ZX 80 MT,2 Seater (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 Automatic 2/4Seat (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 MT,4 Seater (3.9) (R200) 280ZX-GL 80 (3.9) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 Automatic all (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 81-83 Turbo - all (3.545) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200) - - - - 300ZX's - - - - - -- - 300ZX 84-86 MT and A/T (3.7) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT and A/T (3.54) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT and A/T (3.7 ) (R200) Note Turbos: #1) after 4/87 only-(3.7 Clutch Type LSD) 2) 88 All White SS used a 3.7 Viscous Coupling LSD) 3) LSD Unites Came With Finned Rear Covers

Fill both reservoirs, run hoses from bleed screws into resorvoirs with ends under fluid. Cycle the mater cylinder slowly using a phillips screwdriver. Do this until air bubbles quit appearing. I like putting teflon tape on my bleed screws, but if you do make sure you keep it out of the way of the hole and seat.

Thanks. We bought our house 10 years ago in an area where I could build a shop. Took 7 more years to get $ to get started, and I've been working on it for 5 more. It's like a car in that it will never be finished!

GM used bellhousing mount starters off and on in the 50's and 60's. The passenger side of the bottom of the block should have two bolt holes for the starter. You need to get a block mounted starter and a 153 tooth flywheel in order to use the T5 bellhousing. I have never seen any 12.5" diameter flywheels with the bellhousing mount starter, just 14" ones (168 tooth) I have also never seen a motor NOT drilled for the block mount starter.

The motor is one they call Danger Mouse. It is 355 ci and has been subjected to over 275 full throttle dyno pulls in various combinations. It has an expensive rotating assembly because of its expected usage. Different heads, cams, intakes, rocker ratios, etc. have all been tried, and this is the combo for the carb test: 355ci 9.25:1 compression GMPP Vortec heads COMP XE268H cam Airgap RPM intake 1" spacer 1.5 Magnum roller tip rockers This is my best guess as they didn't say exactly for the carb tests. With this combo they quote 439 max torque and 427 max hp which is close to the carb test numbers. But the carb test was done at a different dyno than the other tests so there may have been a few other minor differences. peak tq/hp 4779-8 429/406 HP750 432/408 HP950 432/409 Here is a link to the web version of the article. It was not up when I first posted this thread. http://www.superchevy-web.com/tech/0304SC_DangerM8/

For street driving, the air gap means it takes longer for the engine to warm up. The heating effect of the intake costs a LITTLE overall power, but helps keep fuel in vapor form and warmup. Also seems to be a little lower overall height.

For all around usage, especially a car you will drive , I would go for the Performer RPM non-airgap.

Are the shaft lengths different because of where the circlips engage? Could it be modified to fit the old style 76-78 r200 stubs? I'm going to find another option rather than $500 for a Z31 LSD...

That's a perfect illustaration why road race cars have close ratio transmissions, because of the effective widening of said ratios with the high number rear gear. It is very common for Trans Am racers to run 4.56 gears. And back to why the T5 is the best choice for a street car where good acceleration needs to be combined with reasonable highway rpm. I don't know if any of this is still related to the original thread, but good info nonetheless! For that matter, I don't know how common/uncommon the T5 is down under. I agree wholeheartedly with John, and if you have read my posts concerning the T56, you'll see that the MOST gear you can get is ALWAYS the best choice IMO. Top speed has never been a real interest of mine as there are really no places to test/achieve this without great risk to person/property that I have reasonable access to.