Mike C

Sounds like the 88-92 Camaro setup. You can get one on eBay for about $200 with all of the accessories. You can probably find one in a junkyard near you, but usually aren't complete. Cost is about $650 from GM (It's in the Scoggin Dickey catalog) and DOES NOT come with any of the accessories. Requires a reverse rotation water pump and is NO help if you have the LT1 with the Camaro accessory drive.

Nissan had plastic spacers that screwed on the seat studs to raise either the front, back, or both on the seats. When I got my car I could hardly get my legs under the wheel when I got in! My Eclipse seats are a little taller than stock and it is nice. I'm 6'0" and 175# but might have trouble if I was taller or had a 15" diameter steering wheel. They are the same basic shape as the Z seats, the front holes line up even! All you have to do is cut off the mounting tab at the rear of the slider and weld a stud on that lines up with the stock Nissan holes. No cutting or modding the car at all so it's easy to change back to stock. Just make sure and get the hardware from the boneyard. I got mine for $50 the junkyard had so many eclipses they were happy to see 'em go. There was a sport seat that was optional as well that has adjustable thigh support in addition to the adjustable lumbar that all the seats had. The adjustments are mechanical as well so no wiring/plumbing to use in a Z.

Do you have the right throwout bearing? That would be one of the most likely culprits. There is a short bearing and a long bearing and one of the characteristic of the wrong one is you can never get the clutch to release if you have the short one but need the long one, and if you have the long one and need the short one, it won't always engage.

The new LS1 based motors run great. The 6 litre motor screams. Would be awesome for a Z swap and truck motors should be peanuts compared to the Camaro motor. Ran a 1994 'Burb on my bike (FJ 1100)about 2 years ago when we were leaving the Whataburger in Round Rock. I had to thrash on it to get around the guy. Couldn't believe it. Talked to him later and it had a supercharged 502 in it! Ran 12's he said and I don't doubt it, so you never know!

The S-10 was designed as a lightweight shortbed 2 wheel drive replacement for the Luv. It kept growing and growing and adding weight. They just exceeded the design parameters of the platform IMO. I've never seen anything that eats brake pads like my buddies Typhoon. Too damn heavy.

Matthew, that's where the Hobby Lobby was right? I used to go up there but haven't been this year. Rain kinda' dampened things this week.

I knew you'd come around! If you keep the tires from spinning you can equal the fuel economy of the vac secondary carbs as well. Too much fun, eh?

The consensus with people I have talked to is that the turbo prefers the smaller numeric gearset since it increases the load on the engine which makes boost.

I may look for it. I used to read it all the time. Excellent tech articles, but I bet I haven't picked one up in 5 years!

If it is from the rear, some yokes have a breather hole in the end and are not compatible with all trans. Get a yoke without the breather hole if that is the case, or pull the tailshaft and see if there is a location for and o-ring to seal the yoke to output shaft. Other than that, all the usual suspects. Front and rear seals, pan gasket, shift linkage and gasket if you have a drain plug.

Autolite, Denso, or NGK are all I will run except maybe in a lawn mower. I'll never run a set of Bosch platinum plugs again. Three of the set of 8 in my '84 Corvette grounded themselves out when the platinum center electrode slipped out of the insulator and stopped when it hit the ground strap! If it had been a multi electrode or zero gap plug, that piece of platinum wire would have been loose in the combustion chamber for who knows what kind of damage. Denso is the best bang for the buck IMO, the Autolites for American cars, and it's just hard to go wrong with NGK's even if you have to order them.

From what I gather, the VLSD will swap in, but you will need special half shafts ALA 88 300ZX SE VLSD. You will need 12mm ring and pinion or some sleeves for your 10mm bolts. You cannot use the ring and pinion from the Silvia because it has the short pinion I believe. And you should not use the pinion from one gear set on the ring gear of another gear set. Just like cams and lifters shouldn't be swapped around.

If that is directed at me Scottie, my motor was built to run on pump gas. It was a STREET car. You of all people should know that! I never gutted it, removed anything from it that I kept in it when I drove it and ran on street tires. I always wanted to know what it did as I drove it, not what it would do if I changed a bunch of things. In '88 when the motor was put together there were VERY few cars runnin mid 12's on the street. In the subsequent 15 years mid 12's seems to be pretty pathetic, but the motor is as good as new. Actually, if you don't need the extra ocatane in an NA motor, the slower burning fuel can cause the car to slow down or require even MORE ignition timing for the same power. I still don't feel like 10:1 is very high compression with aluminum heads.

oops, right you are Nion. I was confusing this with my conversation with a buddy on putting a T5 in his 69 Camaro. Using the straight up bellhousing causes mount problems. This is where the McLeod bellhousing comes in handy since you can rotate the trans the 15 degrees and use a TH400 crossmember. This lets you keep the stock mechanical linkage in a Camaro. The hydraulic throwout bearing is really expensive isn't it? That is the advantage of the 'vette bellhousing since it has a slave cylinder mount provision. GM was sure kind in keeping the trans patterns reasonably consistent!

McLeod makes a scattershield that is drilled for both the conventional 4 speed pattern and the T5 pattern. I don't know if you can use hydraulics on it or not, but you do have the option of either flywheel I believe. PAW is a McLeod dealer. Otherwise, Nion has got you set up. FYI, you'll have to fab a rear mount because of the 15 degree rotation of the tranny on the bellhousing. You can use an 84-88 Corvette bellhousing and ream the mounting ears on the trans to fit the SAE bolts instead of the slightly smaller metric fasteners used on the T5 bellhousing.

Is that roller the 268SR? Your combo is very similar to mine except for your aluminum heads. I have 9.8:1 single trough valve relief flat tops and ported iron 492 straight plug heads. Your Trick Flows should be much more forgiving. I have never run race gas in my motor, just 93 octane pump pi$$. I run 40 degrees of total timing (inefficient GM chambers...) Your jetting seems a bit lean, however, but it's apples and oranges compared to mine. I have a BG Stage III 750 (1040 cfm) and it has something like 75 jets in the front and 85 in the rear. What do you have in the way of distributors? Are you running vac advance and if so, ported or manifold vac? It is difficult to get an accurate total advance reading with ported manifold vac as the vac reading at WOT may differ significantly from your tested reading with no load on the motor. My solution was an MSD distributor where I could tailor the mechanical curve precisely with their bushings and springs, and just eliminating the vac advance completely. I have had no troubles with detonation (fastest time ever for my car was 106 deg F that day!)

Water pumps can be confusing. There are different variations of the short pump. Used on small block passenger cars until 1968, on small block trucks until 72, and on Corvettes through 1970. In 1971 the Corvette got its own short pump that isn't as short as the passenger car pump and has a 3/4 inch pilot instead of the 5/8 pilot on the original short pump. Then in 1984 it went reverse rotation and they changed the spacing a little AGAIN. The 82 pump is different than all the others, but I'm not sure the details. Same spacing as the 84 but standard rotation? That would be my guess.

I'm interested Matt. Got no V8 though... My roommate from college, his dad started the cruise at the Whataburger in Round Rock around 1990 or so. It sucks about the stupid Outback Steakhouse being built there and ruining it for everybody.

The Nissan LSD is called a 4 pinion unit. Instead of the typical 2 spider gears on a cross shaft, there are 4 short shafts each with a spider gear they call a "pinion" gear, which is correct but confusing. OEM ring and pinions sometimes come as unrun, but alomost all aftermarket gear sets are run in on a machine and then marked with the correct installed pinion depth for the installer to use in the housing. Your friend is correct, but this is still not to say your buddy hasn't spent too much time under the hood! I know I have...

Good answer! I redrilled my 72 to use a 78 booster. The 73 is already the larger bolt pattern/booster than the 70-72.

For the most part as noted above, small block heads will generally interchange. As expensive as it is to get a set of OEM heads rebuilt completely, go aftermarket (Dart Iron Eagles or World Products) or GM Vortec (which will require a new intake manifold) If you have exhaust manifolds that use the oddball extra end bolts, you'll either need a set of heads with that hole or a different exhaust manifold. LS1 is COMPLETELY different engine than traditional SBC, but the LT1 is similar, but the heads will NOT interchange because of the reverse flow cooling. Also, everything else being equal, closed chamber heads are worth 20hp compared to open chambers even after factoring the increased compression out.

I emailed him within 2 minutes of this post first going up, and same result. No reply. I had asked him to send a photo of diff with the cover off if he was selling an LSD. Sounds like he's trying to stick somebody. SOB

I just bought the Suspension Techniques spring kit for a 240. I don't know the exact rate, but if you call Summit, they can probably help you out. They lowered my car the perfect amount IMO. I do have 25" tall tires which is a heck of a lot better than 24" combo I had before.

I haven't put my T5 in yet, but I bought a Hurst Competition plus shifter for an 83-86 Mustang. It is SO much better than the POS Nissan T5 shifter, and it has adjustable stops so you don't overextend the internal shifter mechanism. I'll probably have to mod the bolt on handle after it's in the car, but that will be gravy compared to modding the crossmember and having the driveshaft changed.

Well, Your dilemma is solved. Reider called me back and said they were SOLD OUT!!!!!! WTF? After pestering them for 6 months I was close... Anyhow, they said 4 more months!? I think I am going to follow up on this front diff thing closer. Does the 200sx have the long pinion? I prefer to use the housing the pinion comes in and just swap diffs so that only backspacing needs to be checked and adjusted. Actually, the wrecking yard I use doesn't have any 200SX, but quite a few ZX. I have a call into the commercial machine shop I use sometimes on the cost of some bushings. SOB I'm peeved about the LSD thing, but I REFUSE to spend $750+ for a limited slip. At that point, money is no object and I'll by the blankety-blank Quaiffe.