Mike C

Positive offset wheels can also cause a Z car shimmy.

So far a cheap fix! Some radiator shops can coat inside of tank to seal any further rest from accumulating. FWIW, shop vac electric motor and any trapped gas fumes might go boom... [ August 21, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

The switch may be from the Hitachi power trim for the radio antenna. Are you sure the JB quick isn't conductive, causing a short in your repair? I found a mysterious switch in my current car, but my last one still had the Hitachi, and no funny switch UNDER dash, was still in it

If you have a short pump and cylinder heads with accessory bolt holes, I highly recommend the 69-72 chevy small block truck cast bracket that bolts to the head. This is same/similar to the 69-81 Corvette setup. But as you know, when you tell someone it's for a 'vette, the price doubles! This mounts the alternator on the drivers side head FYI. Check out the 67-72 truck parts board at Ultimate Chevy Truck Board From the home page, click message boards and from the index at top, choose 67-72 truck parts. Post a wanted their and someone should be able to help you out or search members for GMC Paul, Mothertruckers, CPNE, or Wes and email them directly as they all can hook you up I would think. Otherwise, shouldn't be too hard to find in a junkyard. Great OEM quality at used parts price but only if you have accessory holes! I'm not sure on hood clearance, but if you'll let my know, I'll measure on my Jimmy heighth and shoot you a digital photo. [ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

Thanks DavyZ. A lot of people I have heard have had good luck with the B&M Ripper shifter. Check out the steel front bearing retainer from Summit racing also. They say it improves clutch feel/action over the aluminum one.

I would have thought it would...I had all sorts of odd fuel problems with my last 240. Acted like vapor lock, so off came mechanical pump and in went a pusher. Still would act like vapor lock, so on went more pump and a regulator. Still on occassion, would stall and act like vapor lock. Switched to a clear fuel filter and lo-and-behold, it was not getting gas on occassion. Shutting off the pump and shaking the car side to side returned proper operation. I sold the car before pulling the tank, but it seems that something was obstructing the pickup in the tank randomly. (I finally learned I could shut the pump off while driving and shake the wheel side to side, turn the pump back on and continue on my way. This trouble only happened about three times a year in the 7 years I had the car.)I don't know if the Z pickup has a "sock" on it like a GM, but that could be a source of partial blockage or something else loose in their or it could be pulling air somewhere in the fuel line. If not in the new part, possibly where the pickup is soldered into the tank.

Without knowing which engine the TA had, I couldn't make a very accurate guess as to your hp. Too many other variables such as traction, launch, gearing etc. in the mix to base it on a race. A typical mid 70's smogger v8 with intake and headers (stock cam) would probably be in the 200-220 hp range.

I'm not positive on this but...with the newer OBDIII computer, the prom can be "flashed" with the info from a manual trans car. A little research might show which wires could be eliminated i.e. lockup converter, auto trans control, and you could pin-out the appropriate wires for the manual trans. Does anyone (other than GM) have harnesses for the LS1? Maybe buying a manual trans wiring harness and flashing the computer would get you there? It's all new fangled, but seems reasonable. I wish I could give you facts...

What have you done to modify the charcoal cannister or venting to the tank? Could well be a vacuum inside the tank.

Before you go comparing apples and oranges, what motor do you have? In '86 they had a 165 hp 4bbl, a 215 hp tpi (both 305s) and a 235 hp tpi (350) The Pontiac and Chevy motors were identical except for things like airboxes or other packaging constraints. Most of the major cam manufacturers have excellent products. Crane is my first choice for a driver because they are significantly cheaper than most. They also have emissions legal camshafts. Another choice is one of the flat tappet cam kits from summit designed for the tpi motors. Should work fine in a carb application as well. Remember, the same size cam in a 305 will be effectively larger than in a 350.

Thanks Kevin. I'm newer at it than you are! There are lots of different TD04 and I need to pinpint exactly what I have. It looks like it should work. These came from a Mexican market Cirrus I think. 2.5L? I had a friend who used to work at Jack Roush, and he sold me (cheap) 2 HPC coated $ rebuilt turbos (with integral waste gates)HPC exhaust and a couple of stock fi intakes after he sold his 260. He said he had the map so I'll hit him up again. I'm really fired up about the turbo thing, now if I could just find a donor car... I want a whole car, preferably a manual trans '82, for 12mm r200, cv half shafts, T5-I like it's gear ratios better than some of the other offerings, as well as the complete turbo motor, computer wiring etc.

I have a mitsubishi TD04L turbo and stock cast iron ZXt exhaust manifold. How does this compare with the garret T3 stock turbo? Info I can find on the TD04L is 360cfm@15psi, will this work OK with the OEM 2.8 motor/injector setup? I am still looking for a donor car... I've ordered one book to try and get a handle on this forced induction business, but any help much aprreciated! [ August 15, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

What year was your r200 out of? If it is a later r200 (82 and up) is has the 12mm bolts and you can get a limited slip from Reider Racing. If it is earlier it has 10mm ring gear bolts, but since you don't mind machining, you should be able to make some sleeves for the smaller bolts. The easiest way to test if the r200 is within spec is to get a dial indicator and magnetic base. Set these up on back of diff with cover removed. With indicator touching ring gear, and backlash taken out of gear set (twist the pinion until loaded)turn the pinion ever so slightly back and forth checking the indicator for total movement. Backlash should be .0051-.0071 (Nissan '78 service manual) Typical hypoid gear axle backlash is .003-.008 but I have set up differentils with .000 back lash for drag race only setups. Pete is right, pegleg drive is extremely hard on spider and side gears as well as spider gear shaft. The diff gears are designed for movement to account for turns, but not high speed differential action such as high power wheel spin which quickly wears the inside of the spiders and grooves the spider shaft increasing clearance, and BOOM. An L87-89 300zx clutch type turbo LSD will work with your stub axles, but they are getting harder and harder to find.

Sounds like the best bang for the buck I've heard yet! There is nothing wrong with 13's. I'd be thrilled if I could get my 240 there...I'm still looking for a donor turbo car. When I built the motor for my Camaro in '88, almost NOBODY was in the 12's on the motor, much less who drove to the track, but admittedly, it doesn't sound as fast as it used to...

That's funny. I started to post that earlier. The drawback is the transfer case. You could probably use the front axle and adapt it to a FWD strut setup, but where to putl the t-case? It's on the back of the trans and would pretty much displace the seat! I'm not sure how subaru or BMW (325ix) handle it with their cars. I think the subaru is primarily FWD and the output for the rear is just off the transaxle. Anybody?

Funny, I was just checking out their ad in Chevy High Performance last night. I hadn't heard a peep out of them in years.

Try posting a pic

I'm not familiar with "newfangled cars", but if it is tagged for a '98, that is a T56 which is combined with the differential to make a pseudo transaxle ala porsche 944 or 928. I don't think just adding a bellhousing is the solution.

They sure look like they would be, but they ain't. Actually extremely restrictive. When you do get enough nickels and dimes, I would recommend a Walker DynoMax turbo muffler. 2 1/2" in/out for a mild motor or 3" if you have a screamer. Best bang for the $ IMHO.

The ZF 6 speed was used in corvettes from 89-96. They are as strong as any other 6 speed except maybe the Richmond. They are extremely noisy and use what is called a "dual-mass flywheel" to help eliminate rattling of the gears. Parts are STUPID expensive. They use a unique bellhousing and clutch with the special flywheel. They run about $3000 in a boneyard. I think you did well on your purchase, but your best bet is to try and sell it to someone with a 'vette who broke their ZF and use the profits towards a T56 or Tremec 5 speed (my choice, anything that makes more than 400 lb/ft doesn't need 6 gears. The 3.2 first gear and a .76 5th are ideal with a 3.54 final drive and a performance cam grind, i.e. more than 210 deg @ .050 valve lift)

Your car is a '71, I checked out on your page. Nice. From the JTR manual in chapter 6, they talk about your problems. My car is a '72 and all you need is the mustache bar. To quote JTR, "The early (70-71) 240s had the differential mounted forward, causing the half-shafts to angle rearward to the wheels. This caused vibration problems and u-joint wear. In 1972, the diff was moved rearward about 1 3/8", reducing half-shaft angles, vibration, and u-joint wear." So it DOES matter what year your car is. And mine works fine.

I did not change the transverse bar and the front flange was in the same spot as my r180. Does it matter what year the 240 was since the early cars had the different diff placement? Please post what year your cars are. Mine was built in Jan. of 72.

Yes, it is a 4L60e which is the electronic control version of the TH700r4. The performance mode just changes the shift points and converter lockup to a more performance oriented map.

I swapped an R200 from a 78 Z into my 240. I kept the stock half shafts and driveshaft but used the mustache bar from the 280z. If you have a zx diff, you will need different stub axles (I think at least if it is from a turbo) and the 280 mustache bar and possibly rear cover. Anybody else?

I like the nippondeso motors like the CVR from Jegs at $150. Most mini starters are the hitachi style motor (similar to the Z stock starter) Either will work fine. Just the nippondenso locates the solenoid underneath the motor further from the exhaust and has more gear reduction. Many of the new starters have multiple mount holes in the block plate so that the motor can be rotated for maximum clearance.