Zmanco

I'd suggest you try out http://webspace.webring.com/people/cz/z_design_studio/transmission.html You will be able to see what your max speed is in each gear. Compare that to what you have now. Also, what cam will you be using? If it's stock, probably should go with 3.54. If you upgrade so you can make useful power to 7k, then I'd vote for 3.9. But in the end, it's a personal choice based on how you like to drive and shift. I run a 4.11 and love it, but if you think 5k rpm is a lot of revs, then go with the lower (3.54) diff.

A turbine with A/R of .42 seems kind of small for 300 hp, but I'll defer to those who have used one. I think .63 is more common for those on this forum using a T3/T4OE.

You could try a Walbro. I have the GSL394 190 LpH and at your low pressures for carbs it will have no problem keeping up at those power levels. Once the engine is running I can't hear it at all. It's mounted in front of the fuel tank where the factory pump would go. Get their mount kit which includes a foam rubber sleeve and straps to isolate the vibrations.

I'm running with a Garrett T3/T4OE as many here do and am really happy with it so far. Head is shaved P90 with unshrouded valves and gasket matched ports and Scheider stage II turbo cam. I won't be out to the dyno for a while so can't say about power, but others with this setup are seeing 300+whp at the 15-18 psi mark. FYI, with the 4.11 R180 LSD and 82-83 zx transmission, even at the 8 psi I'm currently running, it spins the wheels in first gear by 4500 rpm, and in second it's struggling to stay hooked up (I can feel the rear end moving around as the tires lose/gain traction). This is with 225 wide Dunlop Direzza Star Spec tires treadwear 140, so reasonably sticky. I'm also at 6k feet elevation. With a lower ratio diff you will probably have less of an issue with traction. I'll be adding boost control via MS soon and plan to experiment up to 18 psi, but expect that I'll dial it back for the street as I expect I'll have wheel spin in 2nd gear by then. Car is a 73 so a bit on the lighter side compared to later S30s. Even at 2k it generates around 3 psi and it's at full boost by 3500 rpm. Compared to a NA engine it has more torque just about everywhere.

Bo, take a look at my post just above yours. Sometimes people are looking for relationship business, and I'll guess that's how you operate in your professional life (as do I). But sometimes people just want someone to get it done and that's all. Neither approach is right or wrong - but if both parties aren't in agreement, then at least one will be frustrated.

Perhaps I can suggest a different way to look at the bigger picture here. In general, there are 2 approaches to doing business: - Single incident - Relationship-based In single incident transactions, both sides expect to get the best deal for themselves at that moment and don't expect or care if they ever do business again. These tend to be zero-sum deals - each side tries to steer things to their own advantage with no regard for how it affects the other. While we often hear horror stories of how this is abused by the seller, there are plenty of times where the buyer takes advantage as well. In relationship-based transactions, both sides recognize that they expect to do business again in the future, and so the specifics of the particular transaction are viewed in the bigger picture of the relationship. It's no longer a zero sum deal and there can be an openness such that one side might benefit greatly from a small concession from the other. If one side finds that the terms are suddenly much to their favor, they may share some of that benefit with the other side. There is a longer-term perspective at work. If you expect that you'll be seeing and working with the other person again, then you'll treat them more fairly - both the seller and buyer. Car dealers are stereotypically seen as operating in single incident mode. The manufacturers have tried to change this with customer satisfaction scores that affect hold-backs, but that has mostly just made them focused on getting a good score, not on building a relationship. Yet one of the best books on relationship-based business is called "Customer for Life" and was written by the owner of Dallas TX Cadillac dealerships about how he viewed every customer in that context of what that relationship was worth over the customer's lifetime and how he used that to drive how he hired/managed/measured his people. It's a great read for anyone in a service business and really has very little to do with cars. As for how to charge customers for labor hours, I think the over-riding factor is how both sides approach the transaction. If a dealer wants to build a relationship with a new customer, then being fair (not necessarily rolling over) is probably the best approach. However, if they aren't sure if they're even going to be in business next year, then they're more likely to operate in single-transaction mode, which of course almost assures them that they WON'T be around in the future. I've been on the sales side for my most of my professional career and have always operated with a relationship-based perspective. In the short term that has sometimes NOT been to my advantage, but it's how I see the world, and it lets me sleep well at night. I am NOT saying it's always the best approach though - each person has to make their own decision and deal with the tradeoffs.

And now the tuning fun begins!

Dave, curious why you paid them to do it instead of doing it yourself?

There's no need to assume anything right now - install the new driver and see how it goes.

Tony, are you correcting for drivetrain loss, in other words, is that at the crank? I ask because we've done a few club dyno days and just about every stock L28 we've done was in the 120's at the wheels. Of course, we're at altitude (~5200 feet at the dyno) but I was under the impression that the dyno corrected its calculations for air temp and elevation.

I can't tell if the timing light is firing in the video. Was it flashing at all? If so, then try it with the pickup on sparkplug #1 and see if your timing is set right somewhere around 10 degree advance. If it's not firing, then it may very well be the coil driver in MS.

Let me guess, this is another of those "Ask me how I know" pieces of advice

SKIB gave you good advice if money is tight. And shaving the head .080 isn't cheap when you add in the less-obvious costs for the spacers (~150 from Kameri) and longer valves (~150). A cam isn't too expensive if you go reground (again, ~150), but you'll also need new lash pads (~50). A well-setup L28 with a mid 8 CR and SUs can be a fun engine and can be done on the cheap quite easily.

Another suggestion for those in the colder parts: let the oil container sit in warm water for a while before filling. 90 weight oil at 40F doesn't flow well through small hoses.

That's unlikely, unless you forgot to put the rotor in

Agreed, I run with a max of 3.2 ms.

I'm saying you should pull the plug wire off at the coil, have someone else crank the car, and then slowly bring the plug wire back to the coil as if you were going to re-insert it. Stop just short so you can still see the gap and look for a spark. Best to do inside a garage if you can. It should be a nice bright spark. If you find you have a spark then the next step is to use a timing light while someone else cranks it to get the timing set close. I suspect the timing is too far enough off for the engine to start.

6ms for cranking is what I use so don't think that's the issue here. 4 ms fixed would be a problem for very high revs (7k rpm) as there isn't enough time, but I again I don't think that's the problem here.

Are you sure you don't have spark at the plugs? A simple test is to pull the plug wire off at the coil and while someone else cranks the engine, bring it back close to the post. If you see the spark jumping then there's probably nothing wrong with ignition circuitry and it's instead a MS setting. CAREFUL: you can get a minor shock from this - it won't hurt you, but it's not pleasant.

Yes.

Exactly. Trim the piece so it's reasonably sized of course. Plus, make sure you keep the wood flush with the seal, otherwise you'll damage the seal same as if you hit it directly with the mallet.

letitsnow is thinking the same thing I am: leave the meter attached to the coil and see what the reading is while cranking. Remember, you have the fuel pump wired in parallel so you're also checking to make sure it's getting power.

This is a bit ghetto, but it worked for me: cut a hole in a piece of 3/4" or thicker board that is just larger than the end of the crank. Use a mallet to pound that against the seal. Helps distribute the load more evenly without distorting the seal. I doubt you could tap the seal all the way flush with a hammer in direct contact with it. Of course, a real seal driver would probably be best...

What does that mean? Battery voltage is around 11v while cranking which is good. Did you set the cranking RPM and flood clear values properly? The datalog you posted suggested they were still zero.

You are correct (I don't like the way this diagram suggests you wire the coil for this very reason). Here's a suggestion: connect the meter to the coil and ground and then turn the ignition and watch for the meter to read the voltage while the pump primes. Hopefully the meter will respond fast enough to get a quick read. Also, IIRC, you may be able to set the pump prime time with MS1/E. You might temporarily extend it to 2 or 3 seconds. An alternative is to just temporarily power the coil directly from the battery. But if you decide to try this, make sure you use a 10A fuse in case something goes wrong. If the car starts, then you know there's an issue with getting 12V to the coil.