Zmanco

240Zs have a current triggered tach so it is wired in series with the coil and points. You should be able to get the tach working again by "splicing" it into the red wire in your drawing between the B terminal of the HEI and the + terminal of the coil. I don't know the colors of the wires in the harness to the tach offhand, but I do remember that the back of the tach has a white wire which is looped. This is the wire that needs to be spliced into the red wire I described above. I suppose you could just add 2 wires to the loop at the tach and pull them through the firewall and to attach to the coil and HEI. Disclaimer: this is not how I have my car wired so I have not tried it, but don't see why it wouldn't work. FYI, the resistor in the stock config is there to protect the coil/points so that if you leave the ignition on for a while with the engine stopped and in a postion where the points are closed that the coil doesn't overheat. It also limits the current across the points which helps them last longer. So not having the resistor wouldn't prevent the engine from running, but it wasn't a good idea either. Edit: one more thing on the tach - if it didn't work with the points installed, the problem could be due to removing the ballast resistor, but it could also be that the tach is the problem. I went through 3 old tachs and eventually converted to a later 280z voltage triggered tach as I was able to find one that worked and was accurate.

The ballast resistor is only needed with mechanical points. When I had triples I didn't use any vacuum advance as there isn't a good vacuum signal - the advance was all mechanical. That's one of the reasons why triples aren't known for good mileage . But the power and sound makes it worth it Edit: I did add a nipple in the #6 runner for vacuum for the brake booster and it was adequate. The check valve is already part of the hose.

Can anyone post the Isky turbo cam specs? Scan of the cam card would be great! So far all I can find is that it's .490" lift and 114 degrees lobe separation. I'd be curious to know the durations.

I thought the primary purpose of a splitter was to efficiently separate the air that flows under the front of the car from the rest of the air that flows around and through the radiator. If you add an air dam below the splitter, what is the benefit of the splitter? I can imagine that the pressure above the splitter might be a little greater than below it, but I'm wondering if that would amount to a significant amount of downforce. Seems like there wouldn't be much difference if you ran the same front end but without the splitter part.

I too have the stage II Schneider from MSA running with a T3/T4OE and like the power curve. I delayed the cam 4 degrees and that smoothed the torque curve out and it pulls strong to 7k rpm. I had used Delta Cams for a NA regrind before, but their turbo regrind was even milder than the stage II Schneider so I passed on it. One nice thing about the Schneider is that the lift is mild (.460" IIRC) so you can run with the stock springs. This summer I will probably switch to the Isky regrind as I'd like something more aggressive but still streetable and from the comments here it appears the Isky is just that.

Was BEER involved?

I saw the same thing happen on the Denver Craigslist with a multipage list of key words that mostly were not relevant to the items for sale. The guy was posting it yet again and complaining that he was being flagged for no reason. In all fairness, Craigslist probably should define some guidelines for what's reasonable for key words - something like 100 characters or so after the main ad ends so those lacking common sense and decency can still figure out how to post an acceptable ad

Some of the newer features being added to 2.x and 3.x MS/Extra are only supported on TS and not on MT. But I haven't heard anything about the maps themselves being different between TS and MT. I'm having a hard time imaging how that could happen as that would imply that the firmware running on MS itself would behave differently when talking to MT vs. TS and I'm pretty sure that's not the case.

I think for these answers to be meaningful you also need to know what "full boost" is. 8 psi and 18 psi are going to occur at different revs. I suspect (but don't know for sure) that cam choice and cam timing will have an effect as well. FYI, I currently am running with with the mechanical wastegate actuator limited to 8 psi and a Schneider stage II turbo cam delayed 3 degrees and live at 6k feet. It generates about 3 psi at 2k and hits 8 psi around 3500 rpm. Edit: turbo is a Garrett T3/T4OE stage 3 wheel .63 A/R

Hi Derek, I had the advantage of starting with a tune that was already pretty good. I tried measuring delays but that doesn't help much in the corners of the VE table as it's hard to cause an event in those regions. I knew that it should be a longer delay at lower revs and smaller loads, so played around with the lamda delay values so that the curves it recommended made sense. For example, when the values for low rpm and low load were too short it was recommending to increase those VE values much more than common sense said it should. For the high rpm high load corner I adjusted delays until what it recommended got to within a few tenths of the target AFR. With MLV I had previously done a 2 stage pass with VE Analyzer where I used a delay of 8 for everything <= 2500 rpm and delay of 3 for everything >2500. It was a poor compromise and a hassle. FWIW, I think Phil the developer is going to add a lambda delay table to MLV for offline datalog analysis. Actually, the tuning isn't so hard, it's tuning the tools that's time consuming

Too bad about the discount not being honored outside the US, but you might still want to try them. In their price range I think right now they're the best choice for a dry weather extreme performance tire.

BTW, it's not a replacement for reviewing datalogs to see what's really going on - but it's a much better tuning aid than what we had before.

I've been using it for a while and except for the name, I'd say there is no similarity to the old MT autotune - it's that much better. But, and there's always a "but", it only works well if it has accurate Lambda delay values. The defaults were way off for my setup (L6 with stock turbo exhaust manifold and t3/t4o3 turbo with O2 sensor a few inches away on the downpipe). Here's what I've settled on after a lot of trial and error. The developer says he's going to have a way for it to identify events that should trigger AFR changes and measure the delay so the table will be populated with values based on real data, not guesses. I hope he can pull that one off because that is the missing piece in my mind. I'm using it instead of MLV from now on because the lambda delays are so much more accurate than simply using 1 single value as MLV does. My advice is to NOT check the "update controller" button and run it with "cell change resistance" set to very hard and after half an hour or more of driving, look at what it's recommending before you accept it.

I'm running 225/50-16. Looks like I'll get close to 13k miles including 3 track days. TireRack has a $50 off deal for Dunlops right now and I'll probably go with them again. This will be the first performance tire that I've ever bought a second time.

IIRC, the power required to overcome drag goes up by the cube of speed. So for example, the incremental power to go from 120 mph to 130 is ~27%. To go from 130 to 140 requires an additional 32%. Or put another way, to go from 120 mph to 150 requires twice as much power! And none of this takes into account losses due to rolling resistance, etc. So in theory, it is possible to "throw horsepower at it", but in practice getting the CD down to a reasonable level matters a lot too.

I've just now finishing up a set of the Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec and they're the best for warm/dry and track use I've used so far. Others I've tried include the Kumho MX and Yokohama ES100. Pricewise they are on the low end of ultra high performance summer tires. Compared to the Kumho and Yokohama's, they don't lose as much grip when hot towards the end of 20 minute summer track sessions. But, despite what the reviews say, I find them a handful in the wet. They hydroplaned easily, even when new. And when the pavement temps are below 40F, they really lose a lot of grip. So unless you live in a very moderate climate, I wouldn't recommend them for a daily driver. For that, it looks like the Bridgestone RE050 is a better choice, albeit at a higher price.

I completely agree that risk taking has it's own set of consequences. But likewise, there are consequences to being conservative, as Mr. Clemens points out. Each person has to find their own balance. I think you've missed a lot of history if you think this is limited to our Western Culture. History is filled with people from all around the world since the beginning of recorded time who might fit that description.

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do." - Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain) There's a lot of research that shows a correlation between those who live a longer more fulfilling life and those who are life-long learners and continue to try new things regardless of their age. Our Zs can help with that, but don't forget that there are many other things to try too.

How would you go about tuning for this? Wouldn't it require individual O2 sensors for each cylinder?

Before mine was broken in, it growled at slow speeds while turning, such as in parking lots. Following advice from here, I did a lot of figure eights in a parking lot (late at night of course) and mostly solved it. It still clunks occasionally when I let off during a sharp turn, such as to shift, but for the most part it's transparent.

Paypal's Buyer Protection is only useful when purchasing from Power Sellers and others with hundreds or more transaction who can't afford to walk away. For an individual who can, it's worthless. I also don't spend more than I'm prepared to lose. BJ, not trying to pile on, but I would not buy from anyone who kept his feedback comments private - it would seem that he has something to hide. Also, when buying from sellers with a lot of transactions, anything less than 98.5% is a big warning flag for me. So I've kept the bar pretty high for whom I'll do business with and so far, only had one deal go bad. Seller didn't ship, I filed claim with Paypal, but they were so slow that there were no funds left to pay my refund. Note: his profile looked a lot like this guy's but the deal looked good enough that I was prepared to take the risk. What's that saying that if something looks too good to be true it probably is? But I too have shifted from ebay being the first place to look to the last because of this type of BS. Craigslist is a nice middle ground, although as a seller, it doesn't lend itself to getting the maximum price. But as a buyer, it's pretty good.

Which features of MSIII are you waiting for? To me, it seems that the big differences are sequential injection and the additional I/O. But for our L6 engines which are either exempt from smog or have a very low bar, I'm not sure what the advantage of sequential injection would be. I've been running MSII/Extra V3.x for a while and it is very feature-rich for both NA and Turbo applications. When MSIII comes out I'll look at it more closely, but I'm doubtful that I'll upgrade.

McMaster has the dimensions for NPT adapters. I just posted this in another thread but it should help if you're looking at 1/8" NPT / BPT: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4860k141/=5tif6b

I looked at replacing the stock sender with an autometer sender a while ago (keeping the factory turbo oil line as-is) and the closest I found was this to adapt it to the stock manifold (block as you call it). http://www.mcmaster.com/#4860k141/=5tif6b Of course, this would replace the stock sender. I didn't see anything with that would support a total of 4 fittings, or even 3 for that matter, but I wasn't looking for that either. Please post here if you find something. Edit: updated with correct link

The best way to start on this is follow the calculations as laid out in Maximum Boost to determine your target PR (pressure ratio) and airflow. From there you can look at the maps and determine how efficient the turbo is at various power levels (WOT, half power, quarter power, etc). That's really the best approach to this. What it won't do is tell you how to choose between a stage 3 and 5 wheel for example, and that's where advice from threads like this come in. Also, once you know the max airflow, you can properly size the intercooler piping. I see guys running 3" pipe with 300 whp and scratch my head - what were they thinking? "More" isn't always better. You may already know this - I know you're pretty experienced building up Z motors - but thought I'd throw this out there anyway.