Zmanco

I think you're asking how you know which hole of the flywheel should be aligned with a particular hole on the crank? If that's what you're asking, don't worry about it. The crank and flywheel are balanced independently so you can just bolt it on. If you need to have the friction surface cleaned up, then it can be turned. I have never heard of any special requirement to only grind it. Brake cleaner.

A picture would be good. I did the toyota swap too, but bought the parts separately, not as a kit from MSA. I vaguely remember that there were 2 pieces of spring wire in the caliper hardware kit, and one of them was for a different application so I tossed it out. BTW, I think you are referring to a Cotter Pin? Or is it something else?

FYI, here's how I finally solved the oil pressure gauge problem. It's not perfect, but it's close enough now that I've verified with another gauge. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/86624-s30-oil-pressure-gauge-improvement/page__p__821848__hl__oil%20pressure__fromsearch__1&&do=findComment&comment=821848

My own experience is that oil pressure drops as the oil warm up. Not sure what could cause it increase with temperature like you are seeing. Also, you should put a mechanical gauge on, at least temporarily, to determine what the oil pressure really is. My stock gauge with the original 38 year old sender appeared to be working properly. It read about 15-20 psi at idle and about 80 psi at high revs. Turned out I really had less than 10 psi at idle and only 50 psi at 7k. The stock senders are notoriously inaccurate, and as they age it appears they get worse. Here's a thread where I initially thought my pressure was too high, and after using a mechanical gauge found it was too low: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/84776-oil-pressure-too-high/page__p__807432__hl__oil%20pressure__fromsearch__1&&do=findComment&comment=807432

Good on you Clive. Nice to see hard work and moderation pay off! Sounds like you're making good decisions and reaping the benefits.

Here's a great tool to see how various combinations of transmission, diff, and tires affect the speed in each gear. http://webspace.webring.com/people/cz/z_design_studio/transmission.html You didn't say what diff you have but if it's a 3.36 then the 75-79 transmission will be closer to the stock 4 speed than the ZX. If you have a stock L24 with 3.36 and swap to the ZX, you'll find that you're going to give up a lot of acceleration in exchange for lower revs in every gear. That said, the ZX transmission paired with a 3.9 or 4.11 diff is a very fun and desirable combination in an S30, especially if you use a cam that can rev to 6500+ rpm. 2nd and 3rd are closer together than the 4 speed and earlier 5 speed.

Last summer when I was selecting a turbo I tried to find more info on the various "stage" wheels but didn't get beyond word of mouth. The tradeoffs between stage III and V appeared to be that the III spooled faster but didn't flow as well. Those in favor of bigger cams seemed to prefer the stage V, but it sounded like not much was happening below 3500 rpm. In the end I went with the stage III wheel along with a 3" exhaust and Schneider stage II turbo cam and have found it a good compromise, especially since I'm at altitude like you are. And yes, the 50 trim did require a spacer to clear the intake manifold.

Juan, you and I spoke about this some time ago but I'll post it here for others. I too was looking for a 3" downpipe trying to avoid doing a custom, but in the end had my local guy build the entire exhaust from scratch. He didn't have a mandrel bender so I asked him to buy some pre-bent 180 degree pieces which he cut and welded to make the DP. It took him about 6 hours to do the entire job. Initially we tried it with no muffler of any kind and it was just too loud for the street. So I had him add a glass pack where the muffler would go and that turned out to be a good compromise. If you go this route, make sure to construct the exhaust in 2 pieces so that you can remove the DP without having to drop the entire exhaust. I had him use those 3 bolt triangle flanges with gasket - not sure of what the proper name is. In the end I paid him $500 for everything which I think was a pretty good deal. My existing exhaust was only 2.5" and the muffler was not going to work with turbo anyway. And my past experience with the MSA header and exhaust kit needing so much customizing convinced me to just go custom from the beginning.

There's a large ACE Hardware near me that had these studs when I added the turbo spacer. I'm pretty sure they were 1.25 pitch on one end and 1.50 on the other.

Moby is right - I pulled my MS1 processor and installed the MSII. But, and it's a big but, the fuel algorithms are different enough that you have to retune basically from scratch. With the new TunerStudio autotune feature I don't think it's as big of a deal as it used to be. But jacob80, I wouldn't suggest it until you have the current system stable. Adding more variables is only going to make things tougher.

For MSnS/E (MS1 processor) I think that is the latest version. At some point in the distant future you may want to consider moving to a MS2 processor and the MSII/Extra firmware. But right now don't even think about it! Get what you have working first, and in the process develop your MS knowledge. Adding more bells and whistles isn't going to help you right now

You're on a different version of Megasquirt than I am. I suspect if you click the drop down box for Dwell control you'll find an option that "un-greys" the 3 boxes. Leave cranking dwell at 6, change Running dwell to 3.2, and leave Minimum discharge where it is. I don't think running 4 ms dwell is what caused your driver to burn up, but as we said above, no need to use a longer dwell than required. What are the other options for the second drop down box "Use: Spark output duty cycle"? Can someone else running with this version of Megasquirt take a look at their settings?

Look at the cap and see if it looks like the fire was on the outside or inside. If it's outside, then I wouldn't drive the car until I found the source. Fuel lines are the first place I'd look. Is that a fuel hose in the picture just above it? The other day I had some new hose I installed only a week before spring a leak about 1" away from the end of the FPR and drip on the intake manifold. Luckily I smelled it inside the cabin when I was near a parts store. I changed the hose in the parking lot, otherwise I'd have needed a tow home. If it had dripped down onto the exhaust manifold it might have been a lot messier. If it's inside, then I'm not sure off hand, but I still wouldn't drive it until I knew what caused it. I think you got lucky this time - I wouldn't wait for it to happen again. The cap/rotor/plug wires didn't spontaneously burst into flames by themselves.

I'll add that the stock cam/head combinations for the L engines usually have torque peaks in the 4-4.5k rpm range and then fall of pretty rapidly afterward. Add a more aggressive cam (which will shift the torque peak to a higher rpm)and do some headwork to improve flow and the HP peak can exceed the torque peak.

I'm having a hard time visualizing this. When I had triples I would first mount the header using the middle and two outer studs. Then I'd mount the intake manifold. It's a lot easier if you already have the studs screwed into the head. Except for the 2 outer and the 3 in the center, all the studs had intake manifold flange on one side and exhaust flange on the other. The factory washers are pretty thick (~5 mm) and span across both flanges. Perhaps you can post a picture? Is there something non-standard about your header flange? BTW, sounds like it might be worth buying a new set of head stud hardware. They get corroded over time and with triples, it's hard enough to get a wrench on the nuts, even more difficult if the nuts bind in any way. And yes, triples are a lot of work especially compared to SUs. Are they worth it? I really enjoyed them, but tired of the trial and error approach to swapping jets at $30-50 each attempt. Eventually I went megasquirt but I do miss the sound of the triples. They were louder than my exhaust and glorious to listen to on the track. Plus, no one comes over and drools on MS like they do on triples Hang in there - I think you'll find it worth it.

I just finished adding boost control and oil temp circuits and it was not fun - my fingers are too big for this kind of work. And I hope I never need to repair this board! If MSIII makes it easier to use the additional I/O, I may switch just for that reason. I still need to add a knock sensor. Picture

Max Dwell Duration = 3.2 ms Acceleration Compensation = 1 ms Max Spark Duration = 0.7 ms

Thanks for posting this - it's nice to see the progression over time. I'm curious about the PDK strut bars. I remember when they showed up a few years ago that there was some discussion about anchoring them to the firewall which doesn't have much reinforcement. The thought was that over time the constant flexing would fatigue or otherwise damage it. Seeing as you've had yours on for some time and you obviously don't "baby the car" , how are those mount points holding up? Also, did you notice a difference when you later added the strut tie bars?

Guys, I think we lost sight of the OP's question. The short answer is "yes", you can use the spare plug on the t-stat. You can also place it between the radiator fins. This discussion is morphing into "where is the best place to locate the temp sensor" and that topic has been discussed (flogged?) in great detail in other threads, so I'm going to bow out of it here.

Check and see how many PMs you have. The new limit is 100 and the old was 250. You could be over the new limit even though you were under the old.

I would argue the temp of the coolant at the bottom of the thermostat is more representative of the temp in the engine (especially the head which is what's key to controlling detonation) than the temp in the radiator. The key is to set the "on" temp to something a few degrees hotter than you're likely to see on a warm day at cruising speeds. In my case the only time the fans turn on are during extended idle periods, and on really warm track days. Representative of what? Remember, the factory mounted the clt temp sensor in the bottom of the thermostat housing as well. They could have mounted it anywhere. I don't think there's anything wrong with mounting the sensor in the radiator fins (aside from it being difficult to get it stay put over time). However, I think those products are targeted more at the casual hobbyist who doesn't want to open up the cooling system to make a modification. In short, they're usually easier and faster to install. I ran with one of those systems from Hayden for a while and it worked well-enough. But I can't see how that location is better at determining the engine's cooling temp than the factory location at the bottom side of the thermostat.

I installed a GM coolant sensor in the port on the side of a 73 thermostat housing where the coolant from the carbs/manifold returns. I had to use a brass adapter to get the threads to match and it worked great for a few years. On my turbo motor I did the #5/6 cylinder cooling mod so used that side port for the return. But on the turbo thermostat housing there was another undrilled port just next to the factory sensor facing towards the radiator that I drilled and tapped. It too works fine.

Why would you want to run those longer dwell times? With a street coil you'll just generate more heat in it without much more spark.

If you still want to do the conversion, then I would also suggest you jump on JSM's deal (get the turbo rebuilt of course). I just finished converting my 73 (which was already converted to FI via megasquirt), and I spent a lot more than that. The only way to beat $500 is to find a turbo parts car with a running engine for less than $500. Good luck.

Where did you guys source the Comp Sprigs?