Zmanco

Yes, I'm using the stock pump to fill the surge tank. Before converting to megasquirt I ran the SUs and triple webers with a moderate cam off the stock fuel pump. In all fairness, it's not truly stock - it looks like an inexpensive generic rotary from Autozone or equivalent.

I don't think you're going to have any issues with a 30 gph pump. Look at it this way: On my last track day with triple webers I averaged right around 10 mpg. If you drove for an hour at 100 mph at 10 mpg, you'd use 10 gallons per hour. I think it's unlikely that a stock L28 is going to use more fuel than a 30 gph pump can provide. (I realize the pump is rated at "no load", but it's still 3 times my example.) Others jump in if you think it needs to be bigger.

$28 shipped would be a great deal! Earlier this summer I went with the Australian surge tank for just under $100 delivered. http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?currency=USD&products_id=126 I hated to spend that much, but in all fairness it was well built and mounted quite easily. I went with the one with the mounting tabs on the top and mounted it just in front of the gas tank. Since installing it I haven't had to do a thing with it. Just as it should be

You should be able to run the carter directly to your SUs without a regulator. But if your needle and seats are worn, it might be a little too much for them. Also, it's not as quiet as the mechanical or other lower performance electrics. I tried one when I thought I had a fuel delivery problem and found it a bit loud for my tastes and since the problem was something else, went back to the original pump. I still have it - only has a few hours running time on it. PM me it if you're interested. When I converted to Megasquirt I did the same thing you suggested. I added a surge tank and a walbro for the high pressure side and have been very happy with it.

According to the LEngine calculator, the stock L26 (I'm guessing from your name that's the engine you have) has a CR of 8.47 with a felpro gasket. That's the same as with a 1 mm HKS gasket. I don't think you're going to be able to make a significant improvement in CR, at least enough that you could feel it, with just the headgasket. I'd be more concerned with determining why it leaked after 10k miles given how you say you prepped the block deck and head. How do you know you're not going to have this same issue again?

Sorry to hear this Ryan. FWIW, I was tagged on a short winding 2 lane just outside our local village earlier this year. Speed limit was 30, he wrote me up for 49. If he'd been there the night before it would have been 65+ (the speed limit is set way too low for the road and long line of sight, etc.) In any event, when I went in to court to try to plead it down it turned out that the officer had never turned it in. I guess my being courteous during the stop paid off.

Off the top of my head I don't, but I know that has been discussed here before, perhaps even in this thread. I believe someone even posted the drawings if you want to make them yourself. I'd try searching.

The spacer goes between the rotor and the hub so it doesn't affect the position of the wheel on the hub.

FWIW, I found better deals local on craigslist than on ebay.

That's the route I took and it worked great. I don't have to worry if the laptop is dropped or stolen as I would if it was my main laptop. But if you want to use a different OS, check out the MS forums. http://www.msefi.com/index.php?c=8&sid=8131512d1ca97111425b3f4546af208b I believe megatunix supports Linux and hence maybe mac osX. But check to be sure.

I went to the JY today and found a compact spare from a 93 Hyundai elantra that fits, at least the rear. The center hole is too small to fit over the front hub. Unfortunately with the LSD I'm not happy about the idea of having the smaller spare on one side, but I suppose in an emergency it will get me to a place where I can get the original tire repaired/replaced. With a little luck I won't need it anyway.

I've experienced the same thing with the email notifications intermittently. I usually receive them, but sometimes not. I've confirmed that they are not being filtered as spam.

naviathan, I had Delta Cams regrind my cam to their 284 and .480 lift spec. I kept the stock springs and just changed lash pads. I've been very happy with it. BUT, don't expect lots of low end torque. My stock cam definitely was much stronger below 3k rpm than this one. Not that it's bad, but the real fun happens above 3500 rpm. There's a reason modern cars have variable valve timing What are your plans for the tranny and diff? I went with an 81-83 ZX 5 speed and 4.11 diff. It makes for a very fun car to drive - assuming you enjoy shifting a lot. I don't think I'd be as happy with this cam with the stock 4 speed and 3.36 diff. One last thing, I was a bit disappointed with the way the exhaust tone changed at idle. The stock cam sounded deeper with my header and dynomax muffler. That's not a reason to not do this, but it was a bit of a surprise to me how much the cam changed the sound of the exhaust.

Before I sold my spare (73) I tried a test fit and it failed on both front and back. I'm afraid out here in Colorado finding a spare from a '74 is likely impossible. How are others with brake upgrades dealing with spare tires (besides just not having one)?

I'm getting ready to take an extended road trip in the Z and figure I should have a spare that fits. I seem to remember someone saying that a Honda 15" compact spare would clear the Toyota 4x4 vented brake upgrade, but I'm not finding anything searching. Anyone know which spares (likely to be in a JY) would clear the bigger brakes and still fit in the spare tire wheel well in the back? BTW, can't just swap front and rear since I have the 240sx upgrade in the rear.

I went the Delta Cam regrind route as well. Result was a grind equivalent to the MSA/Scheider stage III. They also resurfaced my rockers for a nominal amount. I did have to change lash pads. Turns out that Delta "swore" that the regrind would need a particular size (don't remember what value here at work) so I bought a set from Courtesy Nissan. Then I measured the wipe for each valve. Turns out he was right - I didn't have to change any. I'm not trying to contradict Braap's earlier advice - I suspect I was lucky that my head had never been rebuilt before me. My point is that for a lot less than MSA charges, you can use the cam and rockers you already have to get the equivalent specs to their cam kit. Naviathan, I realize you're already committed to the MSA path, but perhaps others will consider this alternate path. Take the money you save and put it into your suspension:)

Ziggy408, is the top of the lobe on lobes #3 and #4 smooth all the way across, or are the outer edges standing higher than the lobe surface in the middle? The picture is a little hard to see, but it looks like lobe is very worn. Others have had this issue with Schneider cams before. If that's the case, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that cam will have to be replaced.

I started with the standard GM sensor in the lexan spacer behind the TB. Just as Ron Tyler said, once heat soaked, it takes longer to dissapate the heat. So does anyone have some screen captures (or just list the values) they used for the "Coolant-Related Air Density" settings?

Interesting feature - I had seen it before but didn't realize it as a way to deal with this issue. Would you post some screen shots of your settings? It's not immediately obvious to me what values to begin with. I'd rather start with yours than reinvent the wheel from scratch

FWIW, my ITM pistons were .030 over. I only needed .020, but there was a 3 week delay so I went one size up.

I can't tell from your original post if you have flat top or dished pistons. With dished I'm sure as spacecase70 says, you can run regular just fine. With flat tops, you can certainly retard your timing with regular, but premium would probably let you advance a few more degrees which on a stock motor should give you a little more HP and even slightly better economy on the highway as well. But just to be clear, the differences I'm describing would be hard to feel on the street. Of course, either way (regular or premium) you should tune for that fuel. In general, you probably want to get to 35 degrees of total advance with your engine. If you can do that with regular, then you save a few cents per gallon

Bill, it does sound like maybe there's an issue with your fan, although they usually don't fail by moving less air - they fail by moving NO air I have a spare fan I pulled from a Sable (same as Taurus?) that I never used because it didn't fit with my L6 and the A/C. You're welcome to it for the cost of shipping. PM me with your address if you want it.

yes, you can certainly drive it without the backing plate. If you notice a difference it will be at the upper revs under full throttle.

Actually, if you take off the backing plate with the air horns, you may notice it doesn't pull as hard at high revs. The air horns are an important part of obtaining good airflow into SUs as they help straighten out the flow before the air enters the throat. If you tune for power without the backing plate and later add it, you'll have to do it again. This was one of those things I learned the hard way.

I think you already have determined that at idle with the fan on the alternator just can't put out enough current to run the fan fast enough. Modern cars deal with this by having the FI controller adjust the IAC by opening it up more so that the idle remains constant regardless of load. On mine where I'm using megasquirt and a bosch 3 wire IAC, I can see the duty cycle for the IAC go from around 11 or 12% without the fan on up to as high as 30% when both 12" fans kick in. I'm running with a 90 amp Maxima alternator. You didn't say if you are running with carb or FI, but a simple fix might be to just increase the idle so that even with the fans on, the alternator voltage stays above say 13.5 V. But of course this will generate more heat which will only make the fans come on more often. A better method would be to increase the idle only when the fans are on. With an aftermarket FI system like MS you have choices on how to do this (like the bosch I'm using). With a carb, I believe a solenoid used to be used when the A/C compressor was active. Some used an electric one, others operated off of engine vacuum. I had tried to find one at the local pick n pull before converting to MS, but never found one that looked reasonable to install on the L6. Hope that gives you some ideas.