SilentNight1647

I guess I should have clarified they are SBC rods that use the Honda 1.89 rod journal which is quite a bit smaller than even a small journal SBC which is a 2.00, so the theroy is that the motor should rev faster because of less rotating weight. It is a cricle track thing, they used to take 327 rods and grind a stock crank down .100" so the rod journal would be small enough to accept the 327 rods. The only plus to building something myself is that I can say I did it and that my machine work is free.

That thing almost sounds like a small block or it's got a wicked exhaust leak, but I think we need to track this dude down and smack him several times very hard.

The 280zx is all but painted now and I think I got it dialed in to the point where I don't want to screw with it anymore. It is a fast street car and that is allI ever wanted, so it's time for a new project...and a new target. I want to be able to say I've got a car in my stable that will outrun a Hennessey Viper in the 1/4, standing mile, and brake and cornering tests, and is still a street car . So this is what I'm thinking, a Twin Turbo 383. I would go with a GM block with splayed caps, an Eagle Honda rod journal rotating assembly, Dart 230cc Iron Eagles (Yes I know everyone hates cast iron these days but I don't like aluminum), a Weiand Team-G high rise, the cam they used in the F-Bomb in Hot Rod, twin Holsets, and a Mighty Demon 850 blow through setup. And this last part may have some people laughing at me, SSAutochrome turbo headers. Now hear me out I figure their header is cheap and I can brace the thing up so it holds the weight of the turbo without too much trouble. Now granted this may not be the best choice but I like the position they place the turbos in the best and if they do break I will just buy something else later. I haven't decided what car I would put it in, I would like to throw it in Z but it may not practical considering that I want to with a full circle track suspension setup on it with a Grand National floater out back, so I am leaning towards a 3rd gen F-body. Anyway it really doesn't matter what it goes in I will figure that out later. My question is can a car built by a 19 year old kid and his Dad in his machine shop beat one of the worlds fastest cars? I think it can be and I intend to prove it. So whadya think? A good project or doomed to failure?

Dude if she looks your Mom than me and your Mom need to go out some time.

I don't know of any that will "pop" in but you can always put it in a pod somewhere in the car, and besides the stock speedo in any car is not very accurate up that high anyway.

More than likely he used an impact to put them on (thats what I do) and by the sound of it he used a mighty big one, get a good can of panther piss (aka penetrating oil) spray em down and get the biggest bar you can find have someone else hold the flywheel or you'll never get it undone. I recently replaced the clutch on a 1999 Mustang and it took a foot long bar on a 7/16 wrench to break the u-joint bolts loose, and that was a tiny bolt by comparison don't underestimate the power of bolts to hold stuff together when you really don't want them too.

My Dad did something like that with a Datsun pickup motor he was replacing he didn't know if the thing was any good so he lit it on the back porch and watched it hop around for a few seconds it was pretty funny.

140mph units do pop up on eBay every once and while but overall not that often, your best bet is the aftermarket speedo. And besides why do you need to know how fast you are going over 85 anyway.

I need to go to MS one of these days I did ask my Dad and the pistons in that motor are dish pistons so the 8-8.5 is the new approx measurement until I can get it whistled with again hopefully with a different one. On the plus side it doesn't detonate at all on 93 but it was weird today when I drove home it would only spool 3lbs of boost w/o my homemade controller on it. I don't know the weight of the car but I weigh 200lbs and the car has full interior and manual everything.

I'm fairly certain it has KA flat tops that were milled and it definetly has a milled P90 on it. With a whistle it checks out between 9.5 and 10.5 granted the whistle is really old and beat up but I figure at least 9:1. I need to talk to my machine shop (read:my Dad) and figure out if he used the pistons I bought or replaced them and didn't tell me. And all I've got is a narrow band that sits in the car I really need to go to a wide band though. Oh I figured out what the M070R stood for upon closer inspection it says MOTOR with Nissan stamp in front of that so I guess it is a OEM Nissan T3 which doesn't really surprise me considering who I got it from. I am just going to dial the boost up to 10 and wait for something bad to happen and rebuild it from their.

Well I dialed up the boost with a Home Depot (or in this case Ace Hardware) boost controller and it got interesting with it barely turned in the car hits 10lbs of boost with a quickness and will break loose even when I start in second gear from a dead stop once it spools at about 2500. I blew a boost tube off the intercooler though due to a loose hose clamp. I think all it needed was a little more boost to wake it up, I ended up taking the homeade boost controller off and just using the wastegate because I don't know if the motor will hold up too long with boost at those levels. Also does anyone know what the numbers M070R mean on the compressor side of the turbo? I thought it was a part number but no one seems to list it the only part that makes sense is to me is the 70R. I got the turbo from a less than reputable source about 2 years ago and never bothered to look up the numbers to see if what he gave me was what he said it was and now I wish I had.

.595 lift intake/exhaust 306 adv. duration 274@ .50 and yes I did port match the throttle body to the intake and no it wasn't any fun in retrospec I should have gone with a smaller one but oh well.

The tires are about a year old I did have the car with me the whole time though, the treadwear appears to be a 300 on all the wheels which makes me wonder what I was thinking when I put those on. Where can I get some of these Federal skins? I can't seem to find any in the states.

I only spool about 5lbs of boost which isn't alot but the motor has alot of compression (10:1 on a whistle) and I'm afraid to turn it up past that I know I'm a sissy but this is the first turbo motor I've ever put together. The EFI consists of a Q45 throttle body, '78 manifold that has been extrude honed, and stock injectors from a 280ZXT. I've got a Digital 6 on it right now, I've also got a box from Jet that I got when i bought the car but haven't hooked up it's supposed to adjust the fuel injection via two dials I couldn't find it on their website though so I don't know how to hook it into the factory harness. One thing I've never bothered to ask anyone is how much RPM I should be turning before I shift, right now I only turn about 6000 should I turn more or shift alot earlier? It's really weird though the car feels alot faster than it performed it even seems to pull harder on the highway than it did the day I raced it. I'll figure this damn car out one or another even if I have to rebuild the motor in the process.

Thats the plan, I am looking at a pair of Diamond Racing wheels right now and some Hoosier's I'm not ready to change the suspension just yet I really don't think I'm losing that much outside tread and I think at this point weight transfer is more important to getting the car to hook. Maybe I'm just old fashioned but I was always taught that if the car won't hook get more tire and make it transfer more weight over the rear wheels.

Their Ecsta Supras I don't know the treadwear right off hand I'll look later but I can tell you they are rock hard, I thought about DOT slicks for a while but I would just assume get a real set since I have such huge traction problems.

Man it was spooky seeing that I used to drive across that bridge a few times a year going up to see my uncle I'm was very sorry to that happen I do wonder though what caused it?

The trap speed would be much higher if I wasn't spinning for the first forty feet, I wish I had a video so you could see how bad it was. And isn't a 110 awfully high for a 12? IIRC I trap about 115-120 in the Nova, it runs an 11.3-11.7 with a 1.6-1.8 60ft depending on how cool it is outside. I'm definetly going to slip the clutch from now on though I think it will make a big difference as well as slicks.

Good to know all my other cars have been solid axle most of which had leaf springs so I'm new to this type of setup. Any idea where I can get some really stiff springs? Or am I better off converting it to a coil over style and use QA1s? The car has alot more in it I was trapping at about 95-98mph all day running high 14s low 15s so if I can get traction I think I can see 12s in it. Your right I was dumping the clutch, my car doesn't spool very much boost anyway so I didn't really think about doing that I try to slip it next time I go racing thanks for the advice hopefully I can get it under control and run it where it should be at.

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the rear end squatting indicate good weight transfer thus helping the car hook-up? That's how we always set up our drag cars anyway. But your right it does squat down quite a bit on the launch. I still think I just need more tire I plan to run it again next weekend with a set of slicks so we'll see.

I went to the track today for the first time since I've been home and ran my 280ZX I was expecting a 12 out of it, man was I wrong. Massive wheel spin dashed all my hopes for getting a decent time, I ran a 15.9 on the first pass and a 15.2 on the next one, with 2.9 and 2.5 60ft times respectively. I staged up again and launched it really soft and only got a some mild spin in 2nd and a chirp into 3rd I got a 2.2 60 and 14.6 overall. Oh well looks like I need slicks. On the plus side the motor makes plenty of power when I stood on the throttle in 1st I spun for 40ft and continued to spin well into 2nd. I thought 10in wide Kuhmos would be plenty to get it to the ground but I guess I figured wrong, sometime this week I am taking it to the local dyno to see what kind of numbers I can lay down. I'll post the results when I get them, I wish I had some video for you all but I neglected to bring the camera, you would have laughed seeing a my car getting sideways at the lights (whatever happened to stickum?), one pass I was at about a 45 degree angle before the car started to move, the guy running the lights was not amused altough I thought it was pretty funny.

I've got DEVIL Z on my '72 in Nebraska even though doesn't run at the moment and probably wont in the foreseeable future.

I don't think your tach is wired up right or you've got it set on 6-cyl or 4-cyl idling at 1500 is awfully high especially in something with some decent cubic inch and small blocks don't normally rev extremely fast though their are exceptions but my bet is still on a tach issue hope you get it fixed.

I've shot a few o/u before and I really don't like the feel of them something bothers me about the way they are constructed even though the build quality is normally quite good, by far favorite was an SA not sure what model but it shot well and fit me fairly well, I still prefer my old 870 Wingmaster or Ithaca 20ga. granted not really fine shotguns by any measure but they shoot like a dream even though the Ithaca kicks like mule even for a 20ga. So in my (not so) professional opinion go with the one that fits you the best a good test is to have a buddy launch a few clays and close your eyes as you draw a bead on them a gun that fits you well will track much better and than one that doesn't and you should be able to follow the clay with your eyes closed obviously don't shoot with your eyes closed it's a kind of odd little trick my grandpa taught me when I first started shooting when I was younger trust me it works though, best of luck to you in finding a gun that fits you it may take a while but it is worth it.

Dude when we rebuild a motor the pan (as long it's not aluminum) goes straight into the hot tank and it sits their for a day soaking in alkali and then gets pressured washed so you aren't going to hurt it by pressure washing it spray it with some brake clean after you wash it out to help displace the water and make it dry faster.