SilentNight1647

Personally I think it's too ricey for my tastes. Too much chrome, big wheels, and the big fender flares just don't do it for me. But I'm not a big fan of the show/racecars that everyone seems to build these days. It is a very nice car and he should be very proud of it but unto each his own.

OK lets see if I remember how to do this, heavy red and black go to the battery, orange and black go to the dist, white isn't used, you need an MSD wire to go from the dist to the magnetic pickup, and red goes to a switched 12v source normally the key. Are absolutely sure you have the orange and black hooked up correctly? They should go black to C- and orange to B+. They are very easy to screw up and I have done it several times. That should do it these things are really easy to use once you get the hang of it.

Tell him to kick rocks, that wheel being scuffed has nothing to do with you, it's not like you whipped out in front of him or didn't give a signal, I would say he was going way too fast and can't drive so when he stood on the brakes then grazed the curb which or he's using you for an excuse. It also seems highly suspect that he didn't want to fork over his insurance when you pulled over. I would have never stopped myself, I hate people that pull this type of crap.

Very cool, I love the way it sounds I've never heard anything quite like it before. You most certainly deserve a cookie.

350 .060 over with a 400 crank equals 388 that would be cool if it was an SBC but I sincerely doubt it.

Thats a damn shame always hate to see one of the greats go.

Realistically your not going to notice the difference between the two. Plus stripping the weight and emissions off the 280 is an easy day as far as the basics anyway. Buy a 280 you will enjoy it their is nothing quite like an S30.

I've driven a T56 equipped F-body before and even with an aftermarket clutch it was easy to drive and didn't require much effort. It was much easier to drive than a friends T5 equipped Mustang and quite a bit easier than my ZX with the Nissan trans. So I would say that overall it is very easy to drive but I can't compare it to the Civic as I have never driven one.

Do not hot tank anything that is aluminum the acid in the tank will eat aluminum any machine shop knows better than to do that. Honestly Simple Green is your best bet followed by a pressure wash and WD-40 that will keep it from rusting for a while but Cosmoline is your best bet for long term storage but the stuff is a pain to remove and really smells funny.

Well if it came from Navy Fed then they should be American, and it seems kind of odd that they picked that bank and you are in Hampton Roads. My vote definelty goes for scam but just to be sure drop by or call Navy Fed and ask them about it they will be able to tell you for sure.

So I misunderstood, I said my ability to understand Japanese was very limited. I just thought it was cool that someone still carries an interest in the L-Series as a racing engine and not just for restorations and nostalgia. And I do go off base quite a bit but when I reread my post I realized I wasn't really clear I meant NA L-Series builds are the norm not for everything, I see tons of turbo RBs, Rotaries, SRs, and pretty much everything else. Oh well, just a little too optimistic, still a cool Z though. PS I went and played that Initial D game with real cars today, that was cool the cars all had working gauges in them and it almost felt like you were really throwing one around a corner, definetly the coolest arcade game I've played ever.

If their was any oil left in it when you melted the line drain the oil and look at it, alternatively take the oil filter off and cut it it open, you are looking for metal shavings, chips, and misc. pieces if you find any then there is a a very good chance you tore up a a bearing.

Yep that the one. I like that car alot, did you happen to catch the Datsun horn cover on the steering wheel? I think they want Datsun stuff for their cars as much as we want Nissan stuff for ours. Also it seems the big Z club over here is actually called the Datsun Sports Car Club of Japan, go figure.

I doubt you will need to replace the crank it takes alot to junk one. Now that you have oil pressure again does it run rough or knock? If not drive it till it dies and save up while it still runs, if it knocks take it out and tear it down. From their make a descion on what to do even if it just to sell it. And remember a complete car with a blowed up motor is worth less to most people than a car with no motor and a box of parts.

I picked up the latest issue of Lightning Vintage Auto over here and saw something that made me almost jump up and down like a school girl, a new TC-24 head on a car I'd never seen before. Based on my limited ability to translate Japanese with my cheat sheet and the very limited ability of my buddies to who can read it to put it into words it looks like someone is making them out of a garage somewhere in Japan. I wish I had a scanner handy so I could show you guys the pics the car is orange with a black hood, an airdam, and black Watanabe RSs, I personally think it looks pretty sick. So maybe I'm just overly hopeful or I misunderstood the article but it looks like we are not the only people still fascinated with the old L-Series. On another note it seems like NA builds for these are typical over here I don't think I've seen one turbo one in a really high performance vehicle since I've been here. But that doesn't mean they aren't doing funky stuff though, their headers look like a garden hose that has been tangle up beyond the ability to be untied, I guess they take the whole equal length tube thing very seriously. Anyway I will find a scanner and get the pages up from this magazine their some stuff in here I think you guys would really dig.

I hate to nitpick but OHC motors don't have cam bearings, but besides that you are completely right a master kit for an SBC is $178 my cost right now, and by master kit I mean everything down to the cam. A kit minus the cam, lifters, timing chain, and rings is still like $128. Granted an SBC is not the best comparison but the point is the greatest expense is going to be getting it put back together which is going to cost the same whether you reuse old stuff or not, if it was me I'd save the little extra I'd need and rebuild the whole thing and not have to worry about it. I've scrapped together motors before but they are never intended to last more than one or two nights at the race track. As expensive as it may sound trust me rebuild the whole thing or you will regret it. Good luck getting it rebuilt. Oh, let whatever machine shop you take it too order the parts, generally you will get a better deal on labor because they make their money on the markup of the parts, and trust me they can get it cheaper than you can even if you know somebody.

I really hate to say it but I would have bought that car. Anymore Z cars are really uncommon and as long as it's straight I buy it if I've got the cash laying around. Frame rail repair isn't that big of a deal to me personally I had to do it to my '72 and my '78 2+2. The aftermarket kits are really inexpensive anymore and if your sneaky you can make your own with some channel steel and a good welder. But oh well I'm kind of a packrat and never miss an opportunity to add to my collection of junk. BTW you made the right descion hold out for a better car one will pop up.

I had a set I inherited from my uncle he used them years ago for race cars. Worked slick, I think they are out in the shed but I'm not sure cool idea though I may make some for a Z someday. I would reccomend the chrome Goodyear ones you can get at Sam's they are plenty wide and very stable.

So if this movie is supposed to be pitting "American Muscle" against "JDM" why aren't they using real muscle cars? Don't get me wrong I'm stoked their using the new Camaro but it's more of a luxury car than anything else, but I guess that's what everyone wants to see these days no appreciation for the factory street fighters. On the plus side they won't be tearin up anything that isn't replaceable now and I won't cringe when they wreck something.

They mostly will bolt up but the turn signals may be in different places I think 74.5 and up i where they changed it but with a little work they will interchange.

Man I wish I had the money this kid had to just throw around. What kind of a kid needs 2 cars and a boat? Oh well best to get the thing out of his hands so hopefully he doesn't get hurt.

No I'm pretty sure the LSx block uses the same bellhousing as any normal SBC not too long ago I was working on one out a '04 GTO and that was bolt pattern was identical to the normal Chevy pattern.

I'm not settled on a platform yet and I have thought about a Corvette but even though the prices have gone down alot for Vettes in recent years they are still by far more expensive and less common than an F-Body, G-Body, or even a Z. The big advantage to using the F-Body is that most high end circle track components bolt up and are as a general rule extremely cheap when compared to the same part from a normal vendor. I know what most F-Body guys are like and I'm not one to talk down to anyone but I figure that if I just keep my mouth shut and let the car speak for itself then it should be a non-issue. BTW I always loved Factory Five GTM it's styling always got me, maybe some day I build a kit car like that Shelby coupe that I've seen few times or a Super 7 clone but that is a long ways away.

Wow that is cruel in the funniest way possible.

I would recommend cosmoline if you have it if not a good machine oil will do the trick, then like everyone else said double bag and put some silica gel in the bag with it and you should have no problems. Good luck at school by the way.