SilentNight1647

I think I got it fixed mounting the fan as a puller really circulates alot more air and it stays cool now so hopefully the problem is solved, thanks for the help I was ready to just sit and watch the temp gauge climb until the head gasket blew.

The car doesn't get hot as long as you are going faster than about 25 or 30 at which point I think the ram air is enough to cool it so I definetly have a problem somewhere I just need to find it.

I think it may actually be for the AC I didn't think of that before,the oil cooler is actually tucked up inside the fender on the passengers side. I ran 20/80 because like spacecase said the bottle said to but I can't measure for crap so I guesstimat it is probabbly closer to 20/80. The thermostat in their now is a 4$ Stant piece because they didn't have 160 degree brass one at the time I am putting that on in later this week. I have got a scheme to mount the fan as a puller using some scrap steel and rerouting my intercooler tube higher so the thing will fit in the right place maybe that will help. Oh, when I took out the cooler I had the same problem as jdarkme way too much air escaping between the radiator support and the radiator itself.

Yeah it is, I flipped the blade and wired it backwards. I can stick my hand on the other side of the radiator and can feel it blowing though. I just noticed though that it appears that their is a cooler of some sort is mounted in front of the radiator it is not hooked up to anything and I have no idea what it could be for, I'm going to take it out and see if it helps.

I can't figure out why in the hell my L31 is getting hot and it is really starting to upset me. It all started when my fuse box got shorted out and burnt up my old electric fan, I replaced it with a higher CFM model from Perma-Cool, one of their High-Performance Aluminum fans 14" I believe. I had to mount the fan as a pusher instead of as a puller because of the intercooler tube that is right in the way of where it would fit. The car doesn't get hot right away but I can sit at the car at an idle and watch the gauge climb slowly but surely, I've never let it run long enough to see if it stops I always shut it off at about 215 to 220 for fear of blowing a head gasket. I just don't understand what would cause this considering that it ran fine before and now it gets hot. I have replaced the thermostat with another 160 degree one and made sure their is no play in the water pump shaft as well. I also replaced the year old anti-freeze with new and added more water (probably 20/80 anti-freeze/water) and a bottle of water wetter. The car has a stock radiator and water pump but they were always sufficient before. Anyway I really need some help as I use the car to get to work everyday and although I can get their no problem as long as traffic isn't too heavy I can't go much further.

I wouldn't drive it if I was you a bent valve can turn into a broke valve quick fast and in a hurry and then you are going to be pissed. Like specialk said get a compression checker and make sure it's actually lacking compression in that hole, as far as fixing it goes I would want to know why it bent a valve first so it doesn't do it again and bend more valves, my money would be on timing belt slipping or the valve stuck open but you need to know before you dump money into it. If you have the tools you can fix this your self pull the head off get a machine shop to take the head apart and put a new valve in it and the all the fun stuff that goes along with it we charged $60 to R&R a head and $120 for a valve job but that was for a whole head not just one valve and I worked in Nebraska so stuff was a little bit cheaper than pretty much everywhere else but I would say no more than $200 plus parts if you take it off and put it back on yourself.

I recently acuired a SOHC VG30 in a trade and I've had a set of DOHC heads laying around for awhile now so I was wondering wil the DOHC heads bolt to the SOHC block without too much machine work, dowel pins I can deal with but do the major holes line up? I would just go look except my heads are in Nebraska and I'm in Virginia, anyway I would really appreciate any help or input from anyone who has attempted this.

I got it fixed, there was a short on the back the fuse box and I had to run a jumper between two contacts to get it to work, I thought I smoked a fusible link too but it turned out to be okay, the wiring in this car is a mess so I needed to clean it up anyway but I didn't really want to burn up my fan in the process, oh well I ordered an electric fan of doom from Summit that pulls twice as much CFM as the old one and looks like it would take off a hand if you got it too close. I appreciate the help I'm still thinking my boot is going to have words with the guy who kicked my fuse box but thats a story for a different day.

Like grumpy said about 40ft/lbs sounds about right just because of the longer stroke but you can pick up more if you have it cammed right, right intake, right carb, are you seeing a pattern here? Motors respond best when you use parts that like each other. There is no reason to run a .656 lift cam in a street motor and your performance will suffer accordingly. Likewise you wouldn't run an RV cam in a race motor, pick out parts that are compatible and you will make more power than just throwing something together, but as far as your supercharger I've never had one anything I've built hell my 280ZXT is the only vehicle with forced induction I've ever owned but I would imagine it would compliment the low end grunt of a 383 nicely based on what I have seen of blown SBCs. Edit: You did notch the bottom of the cylinders to allow the rods to clear right? The first 383 I ever built grenaded on the stand after I didn't cut a big enough notch on one cylinder tore the block up good, bent the crank, broke the rod, not a good deal.

400 rods are 5.65 rods IIRC the last 383 I built used those rods albeit stock GMs though motor makes good power and gobs of torque not a bad combination but then again most 383s are monsters just because of the inherit design.

The only way I've ever been able to do anything like that was to weld a nut on the bolt and heat the area surrounding it with a torch and use a good penentrating oil, I've done it on aluminum before but you have to be very careful obviosuly to avoid melting the head you only need to get it hot enough to expand it a thousandths to back the bolt out, just wondering are you going to put anti seize on it when it goes back together? JK, good luck and let us know.

Last nght driving home I had a guy in my passenger seat and like always I tell him not to kick my fuse box and what does he do kicks the fuse box and the electric fan wire popped out from behind the fuse I had it sitting under (not a great idea but it is a temporary fix) so I pull over and stick it back in and the thing starts to melt the insulation and smoke I pulled it out and tried wiring the fan to the battery directly to no effect. I was on the highway and it was only about mile to my house so I waited for it cool off and just drove it, on the way back thouh I noticed the tach, turn signals and wipers wouldn't work, everything else works lights, gauge lights, running lights, brake lights and radio. So I replaced all the fuses in that block and I got the wipers to work but not the tach or turn signals, the only way I can get the turn signals to work is to wedge a fuse in between two actual fuse slots but when I have a fuse in both of those slots no dice. I'm stumped can anyone help me out, I'd really appreciate it, and finally it's a 1980 280ZX with a dash out of (I think) an '82 turbo.

Yes, I do beleive Hybrids attract crazy people their have been several times I have been "challenged" by all sorts of stuff from a primered up 2g eclipse to a '70 'Cuda I don't often oblige but on occasion I do indulge in a quick highway pull. The one that sticks out in my mind is the guy who claimed to "Own The Streets". I was at a gas station filling up and I see this 2g Eclipse all primered up and body kitted and the driver is showing it off to a pair of girls when he saw me. This guy had balls enough to waltz over to my car and lean on my fender and ask me if I thought I was fast, I told him no and to remove his arse from my car and go away. He got all upset and walked back over to his car, as I was getting into the drivers seat he yelled "I'll find you on the highway I own these streets!" Well it impressed his two 15 year old groupies so I just let it go. Later that night I was driving back home and he pulls up behind me revving his motor and swerving. After about a mile he gave up and sped past me only to slow down and start honking and swerving like he was going to hit me. I noticed his groupies were in the car and I was sick of it so I waited until he tried to jump on it and I put it to the floor in 5th gear which mind you isn't exactly a power making gear for me especially only going 65 turning 2.5k so I pulled a few car lengths on him and shut down well after my speedometer had bottomed out (what the hell is the deal with that damn 85mph speedo anyway) he does the ricer flyby and gets pulled over by the cop that always waits past the overpass where my exit is. I drove by and pointed and laughed, he flipped me off and I noticed his two groupies were sitting in the back ofthe cop car, I guess he didn't own the streets after all.

Jackson is 100 miles north of Omaha and about 8 miles west of South Sioux pretty close to Ponca if you know where that is. And that video was sick, after thinking it over again I am going to to some form of an SBC swap on a Skyline it would give me bragging rights forever, 1: for owning a Skyline 2: for owning a v8 powered Skyline.

No I'm not an NFO I'm just a lowly enlisted AT but I enjoy banging wrenches on WRAs so it's all good. The long timeline is because of the wait for another "C" school I have to go to before I can be attached to 115. Jackson is home for me but Jackson,NE not Jackson,MO. I do plan to thourghly enjoy myself in Japan and I really hope I like it everyone I talk to that has been their says it is great but it's along ways from home. I hope you enjoy your tour with 21 I hear training squadrons are a blast for instructors. Oh I almost forgot I decided AWD is too fun to lose so I will hold off on any kind of v-8 swap until I can figure out that little problem.

DAMN! Oh well that setup looks sick though I might try something just like that.

I have exactly 104 days until I get shipped in a rather uncomfortable box to Japan to be part of CAG 5 more specifically VAW-115, and about $10,000 in the bank, so logically I start to look for stuff to buy I was going to finish the body work on my 240 and get my ZX painted but a new thought hit me like a ton of bricks. We've got hybrid Zs, hybrid S chassis, hybrid RX-7s and god knows many other unholy spawn, so why not a Hybrid GTR? I've got it all worked out, I'll overnight the 406 in my car to my hangar weld it in a voila! Hybrid Skyline! So beyond the obvious reasons this isn't going to work can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't do this? The way I figure it the GTR is last unmolested Nissan chassis not to see some firebreathing American iron under the hood. And after I do that I am going to rig up a driveshaft from the jet engine on an E-2 Hawkeye so I can smoke the tires. I'm starting to think letting a redneck go to Japan may not have been the Navy's best move but what the hell I'm going to enjoy it.

It's kind of sad really that so many Zs and other classics have met an unfortunate end at the crusher, they deserved better but oh well junkers are always going to junk nothing I can do except buy every one I can afford. The other thing that bugs me about crushing an old car is that you know that their isn't going to be anything made new that has the same feel to it, you know what I mean when you sit in the drivers seat of a classic and you can just feel the car, in my opinion new cars are just soulless shells and I don't know if they will ever be anything more, but who knows thirty years from now I could be asking how many Pontiac Solsitices are still out there.

Just out of curiousity how many S30s do you suppose are still around? I know alot have been wrecked or hacked up over the years and it is getting kind of hard to find a decent chassis, I was very fortunate to find my 72 240 and 78 280 2+2 for the price I did even though they are not in greatest shape right now. So that's at least two out of the approximately 858,000 1st gen Zs produced. How many do you know of that are still out there? My chassis numbers are: 72: 72450 78: 112467

You will need a 350 piston, the 383 pistons are essentially the same thing but I wouldn't bet money on it and I would guess they would be for the 5.565 rod that came in the 400 as opposed to the 5.7 that came in the 350. Just get whatever piston will fit your needs and the rod length you will run. The last 383 I built used a 345NP .030" over from Sealed Power but that was a claimer motor.

Fair enough, I agree, most people don't know what blueprinting actually is and what a pain in the ass it is to do it properly and just like to say they have a blueprinted motor in their car you seem to have a much better grasp of it than the average idiot. And I didn't realize your old machine shop screwed stuff up that badly I would have changed shops as well, and as far as the torque plate goes I do have it done on 400s because of the thin walls but my machinist does it automatically whenever I bring him one so I don't ever worry about it.

I'm with defrag on this just because a machine shop deviates from what you consider to be procedures you can't get all upset about it. Their are a 1000 different ways to do the machine work on a motor and it will still run. I see no reason to buy new machines if the old one still works, what most people don't understand is that an old machine is still working because it was manufactued well and is very reliable, not always true of new machines. I honestly don't think the machine shop I use has anything newer than 1970 something and they still build me fine motors and have never had a problem with them. And a CNC machine will never give you the same quality work as a human operator can because to the machine it's all the same it can't feel what happens when the tool isn't positioned right or hear it catch in a certain spot. All I know is that machining is very precise art but their is alot of grey area in it as well, I think you may want to reonsider what machine shop you use if it costs you $900 to get a block prepped when you brought the core. And just out of curiousity why did you have it blueprinted?

Wow that made my day, after dropping the motor out of my buddies R6 on my foot and smashing my fingers after we carried it up three flights of stairs that made it all better. I honestly cant believe that some people take everything they here on the internet to be gospel.

No, a 305 cannot be made into a 350 by boring it or changing the heads. The 305 has a way smaller bore than a 350 and was cast as entirely different block. The only way I know of to make 383 is 350 block 30 over with a 400 crank and rods. You can also make a 377 out of a 350 but that is an aftermarket job. As a general rule heads on any conventional SBC will bolt onto any other SBC in the world some things may not line up right and you may lose some functions like steam holes or bolt holes for accessories but they will almost always bolt up and work. And $600 for a block sounds steep, I buy cores for $100 a piece and have them prepped for another $100 to $250 I'd shop around if I was you. Good luck with your project though are you going with a roots blower or something more like a Vortech setup?

Near as I can tell it is a stock type setup in the rear with and aftermarket strut and Eibach springs and the clearance is only just enough to keep them from rubbing I think with a true coilover setup I could better clearance.