redneck1545

so this is what i get for not reading my paint labels sooner i suppose... I pulled out some paint i bought about a year ago that says EPOXY PRIMER on the front and I have the EPOXY PRIMER ACTIVATOR as well. Reading the directions on the back it says bla bla bla is a self etching epoxy primer containing zinc phosphate... So in light of what I have found out today I think im going to skip the Phosphate step i had planned earlier and just hit it with some 80 grit on the orbital and clean with acetone before i lay the primer down. The reason im skipping my phosphate step i had planned is because the Epoxy primer I have contains Zinc Phosphate and would therefore do the same thing anyways. After reading about all the risks with base coat adhesion using phosphate as a seperate 'step' in the process im just gonna lay down my primer and hope for the best. I just thought there were two distinct different kinds of primer...Epoxy based primers with form a barrier better than self etching primers, and then the self etchin or zinc phosphate based primers...Never have I heard of them being in the same product. Anyone wanna shed some light on the subject???

Ok, so I promised pics and here they are... the pics arent great quality but it gets the point across, I'm just about to start the phosphoric acid treatment and then palm sand with 80 grit one last time before cleaning with acetone and priming with epoxy!

so stripping, clean up any flash rust with orbital, phosphoric acid treatment, wash to nuetralize acid, clean any new flash rust with orbital and finally clean metal with acetone before applying epoxy primer... right steps or wrong steps??? thanks

Nice to hear someone else out there is as bad as I am when it comes to tearin things appart! I picked this car up for $150 from a junkyard with three doors, no hatch and no fenders. Found hatch and both fenders for about $100 from a local z yard. A few trips to the pull-a-part yard and picking up some q-45 diffs hub to hub for $65 a pop (I picked up three for that price!!!) Then I get a call from my dads friend that has a 289 bored to a 293 rebuilt about a yr ago, sitting wrapped up on an engine stand he simply has nothing to put it in and wanted it gone...so of course i went and took a freshly rebuilt engine with stand off his hands for FREE!!! (I'm gonna go through it of course...and i also have a 400hp 357ci engine sitting with no ride currently as well!) so basically Ive got a couple hundred bucks in a car that I couldnt resist tearing completly apart!! I picked this thing up about 4-5 years ago and stripped everything out of it about a year after that (when I thought I would really start the project) and then it has sat in that condition for about 3 years...I couldn't take it anymore and decided to strip all the paint off and figure out what I have left under all the rust issues and finally get things going on it little by little. I just know how much work is ahead and I really dont want to be setting myself up to re-do some of the same steps from doing somethign dumb the first time around ya know.

Ok so i've exhausted all my search button options for the past few days but I know somehow, someone will post a link to an old thread answering these questions but here goes. So i've completely stripped the z of all the paint...so now's not the time to ask well did u really need to strip to bare metal an such...yes i needed to...rust and 1/4" thick bondo pretty much EVERYWHERE. so I decide to start fresh as possible...for those of you who have seen Mull's progress on HUGO, i'm pretty much dealing with the same kinda issues as far as rust severity goes. So shes stripped...combination of paint stripper, wire wheels, sanding discs, and black beauty media blasting. The panels were stripped with chemicals, discs or wire wheels while the engine bay and heavy metal/rusty areas were done with the media blasting. For those who are intrested I sanded with a 7" 80 grit sanding pad on a variable speed buffer and yes it creates ALOT of dust. The aircraft stripper was Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip, and yes that stuff burns, and yes its a mess, but it works wonders on thick bondo and about two layers of paint at a time. The media blasting was done with a harbor freight 40lb pressure pot blaster at about 50 PSI with 30/60 grit Black Beauty picked up from northern tool in 50lb bags for $8 a bag...couldnt pass it up. Ok so now all the mumbo jumbo is out of the way lets get down to the steps once it is in this bare metal form. My plans are to take phosphoric acid and treat the metal, wash with water (even though it causes flash rust) hit the surface once again with 80-120 grit on a Dual action orbital palm sander and then clean with acetone until all the grease/wax/oil and such has been removed from the surface of the metal. After all that I have an epoxy primer im going to spray down until I can take care of all the necessary body and metal work at a later date. Question is are the above steps completely correct? I'm not trying to go through all this work just to mess up a simple step that will cause alot of headache down the road. Any more suggestions or comments are welcome. I will be posting pics and/or making a build thread soon so dont worry!!! Thanks

DUDE YOURE NOT DONE WITH THIS THING YET?!?!?!?!? lol just kiddin...mine is still yet to be blasted...was hoping to have that done 2 years ago!

any one know what size media blasting grit to use??? 30/60 or 20/40??? pm if you know!!!! thanks

yeah thats what im having trouble with...i figured get a harbor frieght 110lb pot blaster for 160...either the star blast or amber blast stuff...a couple tarps for reclamation and do this thing out side for 300 or so since i can't get a hold of that guy to do it for me. but i deffinatly know walnut shells are too expensive and wont remove rust. facing the facts i need somin cheap, but not agressive enough or full of lung killing, cancer inducing, particles to blast my car with. rather not do it with glass or plastic beads as i gotta be somewhat environmentally friendly since im doin it outside! let me know if anyone has any advice!

no opinions or anything?!?!

ive been toying around with orbital sanding and such for quite awhile and have decided that im just gonna go ahead and dig into my pockets and blast it all! i had a guy a long time ago said he would blast and paint for 400 the ENTIRE car inside and out and all the parts... needless to say i cant get ahold of him now...and i dont know if i would truely trust that price with a thin metal z car! so heres my question has anyone had any experience with STARBLAST or AMBERBLAST the star blast stuff is on northern tool for 30 per 50lb bucket...contains less than 5% silica...just wondering if its safe to use on the body...i know it would be great for interior. i have a BUNCH of body rust andplastic media is too hard to clean up and walnuts aint got the cutting power to get rid of all the rust the amberblast stuff is sized in 40/60 and 20/40... silica and coal by product free!!!!its only 10 per 50lb!!!!!! just wondering if anyone has dealt with either of these two products and what size grit to go with if choosing the amber blast stuff? thanks for all ure help!

yep those were the ones...i was just tryin to figure outif they would fit in the 240z style tubes...but SOMEONE had to get there hands on em before i could!!!! : ) anyways thanks everyone for tryin to help and i hope they work for ya sticky280zx

wow! that helps out alot!!!! THANKS monkeyt88!!!!

well i havent bought them yet...and somewhere on here there is a write-up on how the 280z koni's inserts will work in a 240z style strut housing...i read it somewhere but cant find it again...but my plans are to section the struts and add a adjustable coil-over kit to the struts....I just dont wanna buy these things if they wont work with the type of setup im trying to end up with(when the pockets are finally deep enough)

just was told there was a typo and the part numbers are 8641 1034...i'm told they are fully adjustable (dual adjustment??) used but with less than 2k on them...good rebound, no leaks yadda yadda...would this be a good buy for a couple hundred for a set of 4???? wisdom is seeked!!!

cage builders in this area (ATL) are extremely prideful in their work...IE i got one quote for a 5k STARTING bid on a 10-12 pt cage from a reputable builder down the road...he would probably charge 500 to bend some pipe...but i do agree with you about not wasting money to end up with a bent piece of metal worth its weight! If you have a good and reasonably priced build in your area then that would be the way to go...if not shop around some exhaust shops (they bend pipe all day too)

thanks John, quite simply, if you dont know what application these number will work for, i should hold out for some that are certain to work. I trust your judgement and knowledge!!! thanks

I have a early 260z and found these koni red's i was thinkin about buying... part #8641-1036 9012. I'm wanting to do a coil over setup in the future...can these be used on a coil over setup??? I dont have a problem with sectioning the strut tubes or anything but i dont want to buy shocks now only to have to buy different ones when i go with coil overs... I've searched for hours for an answer and haven't found one so hopefully i can get some help on this subject! Thanks

you guys should really have a look at 74 5.0l 's spec sheet on his main hoop design...just buy the tube, take it to a local exhuast shop and walla! main hoop done...no fuss no muss!!! and you dont have alot of useless parts you have to modify to make work (IE- your not paying for stuff you dont use!!) buy the rest of the tube and fab it up yourself! as for the $200 notcher...i vote for MULL's way of notching...measure are to cut out...draw line and hand notch with a $20 pawn shop grinder!!! every penny counts right! I'll probably be doing the exact same cage after she comes back from being blasted!

yeah the g35/g37 has a very nice leading edge, but im fairly sure those are both a few inches wider than the s30...I have yet to measure the tiburon either so i still dont know if that would even come close to working or not. thanks for the posts!

lol im getting some seriously mixed responses...i like it! personally i like the idea of having more rake to roof...now true, im not willing to sell my kidney to be able to afford do it but still, conceptually nice though i think. thanks for all the feedback so far...we'll see what happens down the road with my current project and see if im willing to dig into my pockets that deep or not! thanks

I was just thinking out loud on this topic here but has if you've seen the new tiburon's that are mad by hyundai (or however ya spell it) you can immediatly see the similiarity in the rear quarter of the tiburon compared with the s30 rear quarter...Much though and money has gone into modifying the s30 cars before now and each one tries to make it unique as possible...Im in the sandblasting/metal fab stage right now with a early 260z and couln't help but pondering the removal of the z roof and replace it with a tiburon's roof line...not only would it provide better aerodynamics and SICK SLEEK look but I just think it would be one more unique Z out there...who knows maybe I could start a new trend! Just trying to get some others opinions on the matter. I think only a very select few z's have been chopped or have "raked" the windshield and it took ALOT of thought measuring and welding...This task will probably be no different in the aspect of thinkin, measuring, and fabin but wouln't it look crazy SICK!?!?!?! i havent done any measurements for this type of fabrication or if there even close in size but they are both fairly small cars and it looks to possible(looks can be decieving!) but I think if i can find a wrecked tiburon with all the pillars in good shape i might look into doin this...Im well aware that side windows and door jambs and all that are gonna be a pain in the arse but thats half the fun right?!?!.So chime in with your thoughts!!!

sorry to chime in so late on this one...this has got to be one of the longest threads on hybridz!!! I started watchin your vids a while back and got the same inspiration as sooooo many other before me have had because of your project and ecided to tear mine all the way down...too bad thats as fas as ive gotten so far! its funny reading your replies sayin you could have had the car finsihsed by now but didnt wanna spend the funds on building it! like your actually saving money by doing the CRAZIEST MOST INSANE GORGEOUS BUILD EVER TO HIT THE FORUMS!!! and your worried about money HAHA. no i hear where your comin from though...im trying to figure out how to save the 1000 bucks for sandblasting let alone all the metal fab! just to hit back on a quick topic back on page 16 i think it was...the tubing bender!!! what did he do to make em not krinkle!!!! what mods to the bender itself! im about to start that whole slow and tedious process! eigther post it up here for all to see and pm me please!!! thanks! and good luck to the HUGO REVOLUTION!!!! youve already inspired o about 10000 builders out there! and thats prob bein conservative! THANKS MULL!!!

thanks guys for all the input...right now im in the middle of putting the ole Z on hold till i can build the funds...so im building my old 89 camaro. well not really building it but taking out the POS v6 that someone totally freaking rigged up to make it work in there and replacing it with a 350. im still debating an automatic as i went to the local pull a parts yard an picked up a 700r4 with converter an 30 day warranty for 90 bucks so i figure hey i can blow up about 10-12 of those trans before im at the mininum 2k mark for any t-5 worth a crap...still HATE the idea of a automatic z car though. but thanks for all your inputs ill try an keep ya posted on the build!

wow man im sorry to do this to ya guys but let me be the first to say i dont like the new z...i was inspired from day one by the original d-1 powered lt1...hey what ya doin with that motor supercharger combo by the way p/m me with answers!!!! im just old fashioned i guess srry fellas but i totally like the ole sleeper version better than the hey every look at at wat i got thing i know im gonna get a thousand boo's and im preppared for that but by no means am i disrespecting the time and effort and thought that went into the new one i just LOVE the older version but hey thats what makes custom building a car exactly that and when ya have the money behind you to do different thing then i guess i could see the point in change but AH im gonna miss the SLEEPER!!! best of luck with the new one though im sure ill come around to likin it as much as the old 1 one of these days

i think im about up to my million mark on the search button trust me ive looked...i know about the tko but the idea of spendin the same 2k mark or more on a five speed doesnt appeal to the comparison on the extra gear and better ratios and the 400 (if i can even find one that cheap!!) t56 plus 1800 rebuild were up to 2200...plus 350 for the special flywheel up to 2550 plus master and slave and plumbin to them with fittings were at least 200 more on the lowest end possible(used m/c and s/c) thats all without provision for speedo im up to 2700 at least!!!! so basicly there is no hope for less than 3k for a properly working t56 installed and shiftable tranny...thats wat i figured still way out of proportion if ya ask me...