datsun40146

So you have complete function of your heater with that ford heater valve? How hard was that to fit in the Z? Thanks

Do you have any idea on how I might go about changing the vaccume to cable control?

Hey guys, is there an alternative/better replacement for the stock heater control valve for a 77 Z? The water leaks and soaked flooring routine is getting old. You can no longer order the 76-78 one through MSA, and it you do manage to find one ANYWHERE else you can expect to pay 250+. Is there any alternative to this expensive part, possibly off a different car? Thanks

Finally it has been done. Someone put a jet engine in a ZX, it would be better in a Z. This video is so cool!

Hey I have the top one, the 8mm mauser. That gun will shoot forever, I'm talking 800 yrds plus. We spent the day shooting it at the knox gun range here in Ky. I think I payed 140 for the gun and 250 rounds on stripper clips. The gun came in the orginal package still covered in cosomline. You have to be careful with the rounds they will you though. I think the powder in them burns very dirty and can foul gun after some heavy firing. But for the money you can't beat them!

I realize what your trying to do. You want to keep it simple, however you should consider and SR20det. That motor swap has been done several times and most of the stumbling points have been fixed. Such as motor mounts; you can get the mounts and drive shaft from vilidini or the like. The harness has been worked out. But with the 2.3 swap alot of the work you are going to have to do will be custom and therefore VERY expensive. I'm not saying either swap is easy, but for the increase in power the sr20det offers I would go with that.

I don't know what to do here guys, should I take the risk?

Well I emailed flash and mentioned their bad rep and the 240sx lawsuit and this is what I was sent. Dear Sir, If just engine, what do you say USD500.00 perfect opportunity, to show them the real deal. What law suit? I never heard of it and in another message If you put in downpayment USD300.00 i'll ship the engine first.. balance pay later.. when arrived What do you fallas think, still a bad company just trying to get what they can, or have they turned over a new leaf?

ok thanks just thought I would make sure

Having searched Hybridz.org about this company I am getting the feeling that they have (A) long shipping on their clips and ( bad customer service on their clips. Does this "badness" bleed into their sell of motors? They are, for the most part the only people that will import the RB25de at a decent price. However after reading what this site has to say I am having second thoughts. Can anyone confirm that they sell bad/junked motors, aka on their last leg. Can anyone confirm that these people are indeed running a scam operation and are not to be trusted? Thanks again.

My god do you think that car is gonna stiff enough? lol Cool pictures thanks

I didn't complety post your emails lol however it was a great starting point and I did use some of what you told me as information. I have called every import from venus to mckinny (sp) and they all agree that you need after market mounts. Now I don't know it they just want to sell me more stuff or what. But from what I've read both z cars rule and emwhyrohen had no trouble bolting in their RBs. However the Rb25de and Rb20det are exceptions to the rule of needing aftermarket mounts. Now that I KNOW the Rb25de will bolt right in thats one more reason to go N/A over turbo. Hey EMWHYROHEN would you mind reposting the pictures you posted on this thread or emailing them to me? Here in the link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106436&page=2&highlight=rb20det Your post is on the second page about half way down. Thanks again.

I have done some, well a lot of searching into swapping an RB25x motor into an S30. I want to go N/A mainly because I want daily reliability and it keeps the cost down. I'm not saying that the rb25det isn't reliable, but when you put down more power things will break faster and the n/a swap is much less of a head ache. Anyway back to the point of this post. While searching though the archives for information I found countless threads like "how much does it cost to swap in a RB motor?" I got tired of wading through all that and decided to put together an answer to that question. This guide assumes your car body itself has no critical rust or stress cracks and your "new" RB motor and transmission don't need work or a rebuild. This guide should cover everything you need to make you RB N/A swap plug and play-ish. -Mounts both transmission and motor from http://www.shouri-motorsports.com/ will run you 600.00 USD but that includes the rb20 oil pan and pickup for the motor to work in a Z. Drive shaft- If you buy the mounts and oil pan from Shouri motor sports they will sell you a custom drive shaft for the RBX swap for 400 USD in place of the 500 USD they usually charge. Wiring- Send your harness to http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/projects and for 450 USD they will modify the harness you sent them to work with your RB x motor. It looks to be a very nice set-up. The RB motor it self- Check eBay, Shouri, neo tech imports, Vildini motor sport, Venus, JGY customs, or sr20store.com depending on what motor you want and from where will cost you anywhere from 1200 to 6000. i.e. the rb25de can be had for 1200 USD while the rb26dett will run 6000 plus. Gauges Your stock gauges wont work so you might as well buy a full set of auto meter gauges and adapters. This could run you anywhere from 100 to several hundred if you decide to replace all your gauges. Fuel pump Your stock datsun pump just isn't up to the task of supplying a RB x motor so that will cost you 65 USD for a used Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump anywhere to 165 for a new one. Belts, hoses, fluids, plug wires, spark plugs, ect will run you lets say 200 USD just to keep it even. Installation by a shop (This is not necessary but if you have the money and want the job done now) will run you 1200 USD. That is what I was quoted by a shop in Va. to install an RB25det into a 280z. So the rb25de should be a little cheaper. Exhaust- For any motor swap you will more than likely need a custom exhaust system. This can be made of anything from galvanized, crunch bent, 2 inch pipes to mandrel bent, stainless steel, 3 inch pipes, it's your choice. Let's assume you want the middle of the road exhaust system. Galvanized steel, mandrel bent and a 2.5 inch diameter. Depending on your location this can run 300 USD to 500 USD when done properly. Total cost including installation and assuming you buy an RB25de and that you bought everything new is 4715.

Well I started on zcar about 2 years ago and needed a screen name, well I didn't think too deeply about it then. I drive a Datsun so that's where the 1st part came from. I tired just datsun but it was taken so I added my zip code to the end. Thus I ended up with Dastun40146, now I use that user almost everywhere.

Well I just flushed out the paint thinner I poured into the pump and man did all kinds of junk come out. It got tons of flaky brown stuff and my clear thinner turned a milky color. However the pump is still deciding not to work...arg

You mentioned using kerosine, can I use paint thinner, alcohol, gas, diesel, will any of those have a similar effect as the kerosine? I don't have any of that laying around. Thanks

I submerged the fuel outlet in a container of fuel and hooked up the pump to a power source (I have been using a battery charger thought out) and turned it on. Well first I primed the pump by pouring in fuel all the way to the brim. Then I put the fuel outlet in gas and let her rip. Fuel came out of the the fuel inlet. If my terminolgy is confusing see the picture. The fuel inlet is marked by the red arrow, while the fuel oulet is marked by a green arrow I belive.

Z car nut, what you said makes perfect sense, however I have already pulled off that part and blew air thorugh it. It was hard to get air though it, but it went though so that means the check valve is good right?

I ran some silicon around the cracks to try and fix the air leak. well see if it fixes it when it dries.

I recently picked up a spare fuel pump and tried to get it working. I removed everything off the pump so I was just left with the pump it self, there wasn't any filters on the pump when I got done to be sure that they weren't clogged with rust ect. I then proceeded to test the pump I hooked the pump to a 12 V source and I get nothing, so I took out the four screws and took the pump a-part. The fuel inlet was clogged with rust so I cleaned that, then I noticed that the impeller was rather dirty so I took it off and cleaned it. I put everything back together the way it came out with out anyproblems and tightened down the four screws. I then removed the fuel outlet (the one going to the motor) to check the one way check valve, it worked fine, I used the blow threw test. I bottoned everything back up and tried the pump. I have air bubbles flowing out where their should be fuel flowing in. So the pump is working backwards. I knew if I reversed the neg and pos termials on the pump that the impellor would turn the other direction and possiblely fix the problem, it didn't and the same thing happened. Air bubbles flow out where the fuel should be sucked in from. I have been told that the bubbles are caused by an air leak, where could said air be coming from? I don't think it's the O-rings is there anywhere else. Thanks Air is coming out where the red arrow is pointing http://www.pbase.com/bronte/image/20034286 BTW again when I had the pump apart I plugged it into a battery to check it, it spun VERY fast and with force.

No I sent the PM to Kenm sorry for the confusion. I just wanted to know if he wanted to get rid of his aftermarket wheel.

Did you get my PM?

Thanks for the quick reply, I can't wait to get into the wind tunnel!

A bit off what we are talking about right now but, I and I'm sure many others would like to get a list of everything that is being tested. From air dams to body mods. BTW is removing the side markers / bumpers being considered? Thanks guys!

Not hard to do at all, you have to unbolt the sway bar but you can leave the endlinks. Then unbolt the steering coupler and wiggle the rack outthe drivers side. Make sure you remove the wheels. I think it took me 2 hours to pull the old rack, throw it away, and install the new rack with new bushings. Not a hard job at all. The worst part of it is if and when you break bolts and have to retap holes. Good Luck