datsun40146

doesn't that car have something like 1000 ft pounds of torque that was detune to like 800 - something? I can't belive that you can have thing even resembling traction in that car. If you ever need someone rideing shotgun I'm your man.

the steel in thin I know that, my roof had some serious dents in it. I bet we spent the better part of a weekend just on the roof. After we were done with hammer we took out the bondo and we still used a gallon a half. Do not put in a sunroof, you WILL kick yourself in about a year.

Can we get an update after a year? As far as kits go I mean. Did you ever get the 2nd gen manifolds done?

And what should I be looking for exactly? and yes that is the area im refering to.

Well one of the main reasons Zs or at least early Zs wouldn't make good hybrids is because of thier horrible aerodynamics. Barring that there have been hybrid zcars that are done of are in the works. I think there are some bio diesel cars running around.

My current harness works, its just an ugly jumble of wires that is a mess to deal with thanks to the PO. He was also kind enough to delete the fusible links which is the main reason I want to switch out the harness. They should swap out right?

nice, very funny.

My engine harness is shot. Its not the fuel injection side but the body side, the side that controls the lights, fusible links ect. Anyway I own a 77 280z and I pulled a prefect harness from a 75 280z. I just wanted to make sure that the harness I pulled would work in my car before I tore into it. Thanks

I figured all the costs for this swap i another thread. I used an Rb25de so it might be a little cheaper than if you go with the rb25det. This should include all the cost with the swap and make it bolt in. IE the wireing harness, mounts, driveshaft, ect. Here is the link use it well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118608 Here it is I have done some, well a lot of searching into swapping an RB25x motor into an S30. I want to go N/A mainly because I want daily reliability and it keeps the cost down. I'm not saying that the rb25det isn't reliable, but when you put down more power things will break faster and the n/a swap is much less of a head ache. Anyway back to the point of this post. While searching though the archives for information I found countless threads like "how much does it cost to swap in a RB motor?" I got tired of wading through all that and decided to put together an answer to that question. This guide assumes your car body itself has no critical rust or stress cracks and your "new" RB motor and transmission don't need work or a rebuild. This guide should cover everything you need to make you RB N/A swap plug and play-ish. -Mounts both transmission and motor from http://www.shouri-motorsports.com/ will run you 600.00 USD but that includes the rb20 oil pan and pickup for the motor to work in a Z. Drive shaft- If you buy the mounts and oil pan from Shouri motor sports they will sell you a custom drive shaft for the RBX swap for 400 USD in place of the 500 USD they usually charge. Wiring- Send your harness to http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/projects and for 450 USD they will modify the harness you sent them to work with your RB x motor. It looks to be a very nice set-up. The RB motor it self- Check eBay, Shouri, neo tech imports, Vildini motor sport, Venus, JGY customs, or sr20store.com depending on what motor you want and from where will cost you anywhere from 1200 to 6000. i.e. the rb25de can be had for 1200 USD while the rb26dett will run 6000 plus. Gauges Your stock gauges wont work so you might as well buy a full set of auto meter gauges and adapters. This could run you anywhere from 100 to several hundred if you decide to replace all your gauges. Fuel pump Your stock datsun pump just isn't up to the task of supplying a RB x motor so that will cost you 65 USD for a used Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump anywhere to 165 for a new one. Belts, hoses, fluids, plug wires, spark plugs, ect will run you lets say 200 USD just to keep it even. Installation by a shop (This is not necessary but if you have the money and want the job done now) will run you 1200 USD. That is what I was quoted by a shop in Va. to install an RB25det into a 280z. So the rb25de should be a little cheaper. Exhaust- For any motor swap you will more than likely need a custom exhaust system. This can be made of anything from galvanized, crunch bent, 2 inch pipes to mandrel bent, stainless steel, 3 inch pipes, it's your choice. Let's assume you want the middle of the road exhaust system. Galvanized steel, mandrel bent and a 2.5 inch diameter. Depending on your location this can run 300 USD to 500 USD when done properly. Total cost including installation and assuming you buy an RB25de and that you bought everything new is 4715.

nice car, calling it very fast is an understatement

I got around to restoring a spare dash a few months ago. I used bondo to fill the cracks after sanding the whole dash with about 150 grit or so. I sanded down the filler till it was smooth. Then I cleaned the dash and shot it with a cheap version of bedliner, then shot the dash with rustolem textured finish paint. The paint gave it some shine. Then I put the dash on ebay, it sold for around 560 or so. Thanks everybody, i'll be doing another one of these soon. The guy that bought was VERY happy about the dash. I was going to put it in my car but I thought I would throw it on ebay and see how it did, I was surprised that it went as high as it did so I let it go. Thanks again everybody

Oh i'm not calling you out or anything, you have my complete trust. I just wanted to know what was goin on. Thanks

Is there an update to speak of?

I have a spare R200 in a 76 280z parts car, hes welcome to it but he would have to pull it. I am currently out of town though however my older brother is at home. I live in breckinridge county ky. Thats about 2 hours from where he is. You might tell him to try the Z barn rodger is located in maryville ten. I hope that helps, if you need more info from me my phone is 1-270-668-2036 Thanks

Are you sure he won't mind if I call him at home? Does anyone know if the barn is opened on sat?

I just called and left another message and sent another email, I hope roger gets one of them and gives me call.

Thats was Im picking up, for a grade A door the price is 200 USD. Grade A is ready to bolt on, it should be just skuff the paint, prime and paint. Zbarn also sells class B and C doors which come with varying degrees of rust and dents but are very repairable. I think they go for 175 for a B and 150 for a C.

I have been trying to get in contact with the Z barn for about a week now, I realize that they closed until the 21st for some reason but I have called and sent several emails that have gone unanswered. Normally I wouldn't be in such a hurry to get in touch but I will be leaving for Mississippi on Sunday and will be going by the Z-barn when I am on my way back home. So I have to get in touch so I can get everything set-up to buy a 77-78 passenger door. If anyone knows how I contact the owner other than the listed emails and numbers listed on the site, I would be forever in your debt. If the owner or anyone with information sees this please call me at 1-270-668-2036 or email me at jlrich7@uky.edu Thanks

Happy to say that I am a Zcar convert, and discovered this site while at Zcar.

What was said over at Zcar. the only thread about this testing was about a week ago and I don't remember it going bad. I posting it and had only postive comments about hybridz and the guys putting the testing togther. Mikelly has had the job of thanking evryone who donated but has anybody thanked him? Thanks Mikelly for putting this togther and putting up with people who may not see the "light" right now.

repost... but nice none the less.

Did you install bumpstops and dust boots when you replaced the struts? If you did then the tokicos have a warentee, just pull the shocks and call tockico. They will help you out as long as you installed them correctly.

I had all the Z cars on GT4 from the 240 to the 350z and your now going to belive me but the Z31 was the fastest. It had the highest top speed and the best lap times, go figure.

I am a mining engineer in training at UK with a internship with consol energy.

Braap, I spoke with MSA and others who seem to think that the later 280z did come with vaccume operated heater control valve could they be giving me the wrong information? I tried buying the valve I needed off ebay but only the cable valve is on there for the 74-76 valve is on there. I think the vac heat valve came on the factory A/C cars during and after 77'. Please correct me if i'm wrong. I would love to be b/c then I could get the part. Thanks OTM- what year of explorer and what would swapping that in entail?