datsun40146

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That means a MASSIVE foggy is coming right? RIGHT?

WOO-HOOO Thanks for the new vid!!! OK, I'll be good Cozy Z Cole and keep in on topic.

agreed...I'll go ahead and replace the bulbs while I still have my dash out.

Now that is a beatiful sound...

Great you posted a video and it sounds great! I am very curious to see how to runs on a day to day basis. Good for you!

cant wait see to it run!!!!

2.4 liter turbodiesel I6, anyideas on a swap?

Well I have heard that the ford 4.6 has a bit of trouble fitting in the bay of the Z. Secondly I hadn't considered the VH45DE, however the aftermarket support required to make this motor "exotic" hasn't arried for the 45de yet, or if it has i'm not aware of it. The way I see the cheapest way to get that exotic sound is the destroked single plane SBC. The block would be dirt cheap as would some decent heads, throw in some forged internals, a decent cam/springs and you'd be set. Plus the SBC swap has been down SOOO many times that they will almost bolt right into a Z with off the shelf parts, can you say that about the vh45de? Don't get me wrong the vh45de is a GREAT motor but for the purpose of this thread I think the SBC would be a better choice.

I still think that the best solution to this problem is to use the destroked SBC with a single plan crank. Yes, the custom crank may cost 2-3 thousand, but even if you had another 5 or so in GOOD internal parts and heads then the motor would only be at most 8,000 USD. That is a-lot less than 35K in my book. I think that mabye I will try and make this motor a possibility? Hmmm, I'll have to talk to my machinist and braap about that crank...

Isn't there already a thread open for that topic? I could be mistaken though...

The head means E-31 casting, which should in stock form give you a higher compression ratio on that L28 bottom end. To the best of my knowlege Ray Jay is a older turbo brand and they didn't just make motorcycle turbos. Since you are a crabed this would mean that this car has a blow through set up I assume? Post some pictures of the engine and car so we can give an value.

well if you want an HID kit on the cheap then check this guy out... https://shop.3bspecialties.com/categoryNavigationDocument.hg?categoryId=6

+1 to daeron, I can't wait to see this "thing" on a car!

Ok so as long as were talking cost, what would a motor with these specs cost to build? Since BRAAP has posted so much machining information (thanks) on how it would be done in his shop I was wondering what he would charge to make this motor a reality?

Ok, I know this thread pertains to getting that exotic sound, but with a 1.75 to 2.0 stroke, a somewhat low compression ratio of 8.0ish (said eariler), and a massive de-stroke. What then can the bulder expect from this build where horsepower & touque is concerned. Both throught out the power-band and on the top end. What I'm getting at, is that if one where to build this motor, yes you would have the sound...but could you drive it and have it preform?

sorry whyrualive I just saw your question. So far I had gotten no complaints and every customer seems VERY happy with the product. I would poat some pictures but I just reformatted and lost everything . I can usally get one done from start to finish in about 12-15 hours and will have about 75-100 dollars in materials. I hope that answers your question

I am now in need of another good DD. I have to have great gas mileage as I will be going back and forth from Lexington to Bowling green. Which is about a 3 hour drive. My budget is about 6 thousand give or take a bit. Both cars will be manual shift. The Mazda gets about 30 mpg with a 2.0 liter and has four doors only, and a slightly better interior. While the Toyota gets around 40 with a 1.5, can be either a 2 door or four door, but I have heard it can be unstable on the highway. The Mazda looks ALOT better than the Echo IMHO but I think the upkeep on the Toyota will be allot less and out of 250+ reviews on carsurvey.org I couldn‘t find one bad one. I can afford both cars with similar mileage and the same year, i.e. 2003. So if given the choice which would you choose and why. If you have ANY input as to which car is better, please share. If your friend's brother's cousin owned either car and has something to say; be it positive or negative, please chime in. Thanks guys

I would also pull any dashes you could get and restore them, I usally end up mult. my investment by 10 times

Sorry to hear that but this might make you feel better. Our log home's chimey got hit last spring, blew the thing to bits till about 4 feet down from where the top used to be. Then this summer our favorite mustang was struck and killed by lighting, figures it would kill her and not the mean mini pony.

More information, This motor was the frist time toyota used hydraulic lifters, which means no more manuallying adjusting your valves and these (if they are working right) should always keep a clearance of 0. The engine had hemispherical combustion chambers, which allowed for a cross-flow head, also a big plus. Did I mention that and most other surpa motors have the 2000GT for thier heritage, cool huh? Here is how the HP breaks down Rated horsepower (United States figures) was bumped to 150 in 1983, 160 in 1984, 161 by 1986, and 175 in 1987 This site lists all the bore, stroke, CR for this engine and others http://www.thermactor.com/files/pages/Tech/toyoeng.html#M Someone who has done the swap, and has pictures and wiring diagrams which amy help although it was swapped into a truck. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?referrerid=57133&t=267182 OK if the motor is taken from a Cressida, its front-sump and if taken from a supra/soarer its mid-sump. I suppose then that the pans ect will swap without many issues to meet our swap needs. Internal Pictures, don't think it will help anyone but it might

Well I have been searching for a good swap for quite some time and may have found the answer. First I have to outline what I expect out of a swap and why its been so hard to find a good one to attempt. 1st, cost and as I am sure many hybridz'ers will agree that cheap is king. 2nd, parts availability this is why the RB series was killed, you may remember my RB25 N/A write up. Well this is the reason I killed it along will a higher cost. 3rd, livability, the swap must be livable and that means decent gas mileage and power band. 4th, Ease of swap, Who wants to a swap that’s a PAIN the ARSE along every step of the way? 5th, I would like to stay N/A, no turbo or S/C Anyway I choose not to do a SBC ect swap because of reason three. RB swaps are out because of cost and lack of parts sourcing in the US. VG and other V6's swaps are out mainly because everything is custom to install and they don't fit as well in the z's somewhat narrow bay. So after much searching here and elsewhere I thought I would look into the supra motors. They are still an inline six configuration so they "should" fit although I need accurate measurements. I didn't want to mess with the 7m-gte because of cost and reason 5. So I looked into older Supras namely the mkII's. Here are the positives. They have a smaller displacement 2.8 liters the gas mileage should be in the mid-twenties stock, DOHC, belt driven great flowing head, huge aftermarket, a cult like following much like our Zs and they are CHEAP. Did I mention that this motor puts out between 145 whp to 165 whp and 207ish torques depending on the year used. It seems that the later the motor the better as far as power is concerned. One thing that I thought was really cool was that this motor uses a very similar fuel injection system as the 75-83 Z's. IE AFM, TPS, ect. Here are some pictures of the engine. It seems to have a similar design to the RB in that it has that damn intake cross over pipe that might have to be changed. I searched the archives quite a nit and found the info to be sparse at best. Does anyone know anything about the oil pans on these motors, mounting positions (is it similar to the 7M?), and does anyone have any good measurements on this motor. Thanks everybody. Comparison and because I thinks it so pretty Nice shot of thier AFM Nice general shot

You shouldn't shotgunning parts at a motor, this in most cases is very expensive, time consuming, and doesn't fix the problem right away. Yeah you'll get the problem something but it might be 800 USD and alot of new parts down the road. Before you went and replaced all those sensors did you even bother to check thier resistance with a meter agaist specs in the FSM? I still belive FIRMLY that this is a fuel injection issue. If your valve seals were the problem I belive you would be buring oil NOT coolant as you so belive you are doing. Also most of the time when those seals begin to fall they will only puff smoke at WOT and burn a bit of oil. This shouldn't cause the white could you are seeing. BTW could you give me a list of all the parts you have replaced with KNOWN TO BE GOOD parts so we can narrow it down. Then at least i'll know its not the senors hell it could be a worn wire on that sensore somwhere downstream thats grounding out. Thats why you need to check the resistance. Check it and we can almost pin point the problem.

Nice idea jknc90, my frist thought was "oh somebody has a 914" nope cool idea I would like to see that made sometime. It just seems to fit the body so well. Although you would have to do something with the hatch (as in seal it off )or it will be a giant sail.

There's your problem if the thermotime is bad it will cause this kinda of problem. Fix it and all your problems should be solved. The reason is that since this is bad is the ECU thinks you car is cold all the time and is dumping fuel into the motor, which is why it runs so much better on frist cold start up....... I think