Careless

thickness and cracking sorta dont work on the fact that it has stronger walls, most often it cracks at a weld point because there is either too much stress on the manifold or the flange and the tubes are not expanding at the same or close enough rates, due to heat cycling and exhaust temp. if one isnt expanding fast, and the other does, it will try and separate. over time you will experience this.

i thought you were installing a turbo on your webcam, or a webcam on your turbo. this is giving me ideas. i can add a webcam to a turbo to monitor compressor wheel condition, and manifold damage (ala fast n the furious 1, of course) and then i can upload them at USB 2000 speed with my turbocharged webcam.

i think having a stroked L28 is still gonna be a bit tough to maintain at 300 hp N/A. you'd have to run a high compression ratio, and have to use 94+ fuel, most likely. I think the L28ET would be a bit better bet, and probably a bit more userfriendly in regards to the reliability aspect, provided the ancilliaries and the turbo are all in good spec before you put them on. have you considered other options? like perhaps an RB25DET? i think thats the best bet for this car in terms of 400 hp mark. the engines are easiliy acquirable and alot of the 26 parts are useable on the 25, consider the RB25 and RB26 blocks are virtually the same in design, except for some extra ribbing and deck height in the 26. have you looked at your other options?! an RB25 with a reasonably efficient turbo would see 400 hp for probably even less than an L28ET.

dont get a new manifold. there has to be a way to plane the flange on it so that you can use the one you have. and you should replace the gasket and tighten the bolts in a crosswise pattern, starting from the center, and working your way out, but not tightened all the way, then do it again, and retighten, then go one more time and tighten nicely. don't overtighten nuts or bolts on a head. having them crack off is not very fun to fix, and will force you to deal with a bigger exhaust leak.

im quite entertained by the idea, actually

0h oh oh!! use those cardboard cylinders to make it a real RB!

oh, and about why i wanna build the engine before the car. well. i just want something to tinker with, and im not sure if i can find a Z that suits my standards (although a lot of work will go into it, ofcourse) in Canada, because we like to put salt on everything from our food to our roads. so Im thinking if there ever comes a time where the engine will have to be sold, the experience can never be taken away, but a complete engine and it's spare parts can always be sold for more than a half built chassis. =)

Ok, so theres this make-belief god of mine, whom I like to call Zee. I was once an Atheist, but I have now seen the light. except for one thing. I am stuck between the fundamentals of both the Old Testament of "RB30 Build-up", verse 9:1, circa 6000+ CDN dollars AND New Testament, "RB26 N1 Long Block", circa 5500 Canadian dollars. Ok, all joking aside. Im not sure what would be a better route. I just want an engine to tear into, and I'm not sure if building an RB30 with a GT35R and a 9.x:1 compression ratio would yield the same horsepower, or performance level of an N1 longblock (which i would still have to buy everything for, anyways) This is just for future planning, guys and gals. I haven't tallied how much money I will have to play with, but most likely I will be building the engine before I even get the car. I just wanted everyone's thoughts on the matter. RB30 WOULD DEFINATELY have the RB26 head, but that's another matter in itself... finding one. =/ how much do the RB26 heads cost, and weigh?! I have a friend going to visit the phillipines who can probably tote one back, since he's packing lightly. I told him it's crazy talk to lug around an engine head in his back pocket, but he seems to be quite enthusiastic about helping me with the project... =) For the manifolds on either side, I would probably attempt at custom made ones for the first time around. 225 amps of MIG to play with, and a huge 60 gallon tank of air to play with for fabricating and cutting and drilling and bolting. lets leave the electronics out of this one for now. that's like a whole other investment that could work with either engine anyways. sooooooooooooo.... lets talk about it

yes sir. precisely what we're doing. except im not really building the engine. i'm just doing the wiring and some of the chassis work when it gets back from caging.

point taken. sorry bout the rant. i recently bought a log style HKS manifold for a 4agze for a friend's corolla. 250 bux shipped, just a couple 'o provinces away from here. came in, looks like new, though it was sandblasted. so you may want to look into GTR boards and the like, perhaps. I bet they wont be as cheap as 250 like the one we found, but you should get some good deals.

so... a 9.1 RB30DET with a RB26 head and forged internals, making about 600hp is not even as angry as an RB26 with stock internals making even around 500 ish?! cause i know for a fact that they can handle that for quite while before it's time to dish out some major funding to get that thing all fabbed up to continue the fun. this doesn't seem to make much sense anymore, if with "like serious torque" it still isn't as angry as an RB26. =/ anyone see where im goin? oh and thanks for clarifying the GT35R thing. some 7mgte fan told me it might die on a 3 litre, but im sure there are some variables/specs that you can play around with on a GT35R that would yield the same performance as noted by fraz (while not quite technical, i get the idea from his post obviously)

Scooby Dont?! so what kind of boost can you run on a block with such parts? and what kind of power are you looking for on 9:1 with what gas?

whats the total price of all that good stuff!?!

excellent job kenny. couple of questions. i know the flange is probably a nice hard stainless, but for the guys that don't have access to those types of tools... would it be much of a job to file out the holes?! sure it will take long, but exactly how much of a chore does that seem. considering you have the tools to actually make speedy work of it, i know you wouldnt do it with a file, and neither would i, but what's your take on that?! doable? not doable?! i know some files will get chewed up by the pieces people use them on. just wondering what you think seeing as you have the mani in your hands. also. about the clearance from the strut tower. how in the heck is your compressor tubing going to turn at any angle at all to get towards the front of the car? that looks disasterous. it's almost as if you're going to have to cut a slot out of your strut tower. btw. nice escargot EDIT: damnit, if i could make the pic smaller, i would. mods. make what you will of this pic, if you don't see it fit for the thread. but he looks o so damn cool, im gonna leave'r as a present for kenny