Careless

thanks every, and thanks cbuczesk for the offer. I will get back to you. the 71 Z that the person im trying to buy from, i havent seen yet. but he said that he was rear ended a while back and had a crumple at the rear and that it's about 1/4 of an inch higher than it should be, and a new rear driver quarter should be put there.. but i really don't think it will be all that bad, and im hoping it's not gonna require an entire new panel. But if it does, i'll definately take you up on the offer.

funny you mention, there was a dood at one of our universities here in toronto that was scoping out some chick, "ridin' like a g", as he hopped one of the islands in the parking lot and ripped his pan off. LOL no joke. i have to try and find the pic. EDIT: In his brand new 2005 Infiniti G35.

Hey doods! I visited these sites here: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/167.htm http://www.alfaparts.net/datsun.html and I'm looking for quarter panel replacement. Most of the panels i see are just the lower part of the creased portion of the rear quarter, around the pillar where the emblems or vent holes reside... are there any suppliers that have that entire panel from pillar to rocker and door to tail section?? i know it would be big, but that would alleviate some of the pain and agony of matching the curve that some of us would go through. I mean, that crease is the one that DEFINES the z's hoodline and it's character, along with the c-pillar that everyone knows and loves, but why dont they make it easier for people to replace it?! I'd rather pay 2 times more shipping than have to use filler to get that entire area correct. are there any other suppliers? obvioulsy i did some sleuthing around here, but i cant seem to find any more suppliers. not to mention, the second supplier doesnt carry parts for the 70/71 Z. what gives!

anything pertaining to any RB engines that you could provide would be awesome. and no one is arguing with you on anything, i don't think...

well the way you have it set up, i'd think you're restricting the exhaust flow. maybe just half a pipe wider, or double the size. i dnno. that's just me =/

There are a ton of rotissieries that i've seen that were built with JUST piping and casters. let me upload them =) EDIT: here they is!! remember' date=' you have to seriously trust your welds with these. if you dont. you might wanna build them using large bolts and sturdy plates with holes in them. [img']http://xs106.xs.to/xs106/06371/chassis0001.jpg[/img]

hehe. i was gonna reply telling me where i can pick up my Z i ain't gots one, mang

hehe, i like when you answer suspension tech. That is exactly the part i had trouble getting my brain around. I though, how is it a perfect replacement (or so they say) when infact, you'd have a good 2 inches or more trapped in between that space at the top that will never come into play in terms of shock stroke. which makes me wonder why they even sell that, and why not just include a spacer and a gland nut separately. thanks for reassuring me =)

hey blue, are these the gland nut inserts that you're talking about?! For ever and a day, people have been asking us to make a type of strut tube spacer that puts the shock insert at the BOTTOM of the strut casing on a full length strut casing. Recently we began to have supply problems getting the stock AE86 Gland nuts for the strut casings, so we started CNC machining our own strut gland nuts from scratch. Now we finally had a start on a design that could feasibly be made into an "upper strut tube spacer". This Advanced strut tube spacer is machined from solid billet steel and is actually a gland nut with a spacer built in, specifically designed to cup the upper portion of the KYB AGX shock. What this is used for: Running the SW20 KYB AGX in a full length strut casing with NO modifications to the strut casings. Perfect for putting the shock in the correct range of use when using coilovers. (No more "bouncy" shocks because they are over compressed) Can be used with bolt on Coilovers OR lowering springs, with no adverse effects Can be used with other short stroke shock options with small shims under the shock. This is the EASY answer for those that want to run lowering springs and achieve the same handling as coilovers WITHOUT shortening the strut casing! $60.00 for the pair and is the AE86 gland-nut/ shock tube the same length or the same height?

nice work people! keep em comin!

searching for exactly the title of this thread (and in various combinations) I could not find the following information, as I need a steering column ignition/switch cover. what year covers fit on what year steering columns?! will a 72 that a friend outside of the province use the same steering column cover as a 71 that I will be rebuilding? if anyone has a chart, that would be cool to see. or we can make one using the information in this thread. By "Fit" I assume factory look/mold of the same part, or very darn close!

i would make those two pipes that come off the 2 sets of 3 a bit wider. sort of like a collector, as the current design basically fuses 3 pipes into 1 of the same size, which would be a restriction. if you go for 2/3 or 3/4 the size of the 3 pipes combined, you will probably get good low end, and a nice flowing top end.

wow. that is WAY too much for any media blasting. unless its sodium bicarbonate blasting, which is like 180 Canadian, an hour, and usually takes about 7 hours. im sure it's walnut shell if it's red and very fine. and that means it should have been somewhere near 400 bux for the entire car. but i will admit, the job was done well. and the epoxy primer was applied smoothly, which is always an added bonus... even though you should sand anyways at prep time just before painting. acid dipping costs 1200 here in Ontario, Canada. media blasting, you can usually go to a tractor trailer re-seller and rental/repair place, and they usually know a hook up that they use to re-blast equipment and repaint it when it starts to look like a pinata

those are a tad nicer and a bit more my style. cool vert too =) are those MSA II!?

it's etched in using glass etching chemicals, and then they use a copper adhesive that bonds to the etched areas, thereby easily creating copper leads, like photo-exposure for making circuit boards, almost.

summuna bit**-....

how the EFF does someone get Kenmeri tails :| I WANT! SOMEONE HOOK A ZEE UP!

well i was hoping on finding a set that would somewhat blend with the lines a bit better than that, because i don't like that small rising section right before the front fender. although my commendments for DIY modification of another car's skirts =) and the camo-zzzap rules =D the link i posted looks to be the cleanest set of side skirts interms of lining up with the door creases and whatnot. that's sorta what im after. to blend it in real well, and put some zg's on the wheel well

i'd like to know what would make me buy your TC rods over these ones here, from tech-toy tuning? http://cgi.ebay.ca/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Tension-Control-Tie-TC-Rods_W0QQitemZ200025217762QQihZ010QQcategoryZ42609QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is the clevite that you put on the end that mounts on the LCA neccessary, or even as strong as these from T3... i know it allows added caster, but what about the strength!? because in all honesty, i'd rather buy something that has had input from a board such as this, than the ones from T3...

ok guys. show your fairladies wearing their skirts =) reason for asking...I found this skirt set here... haven't been able to locate a pic of the set with some ZG flares after searching for about 24 minutes total. so if someone has the skirts, or ANY skirts actually. I'd like to see a nice sideshot in a reasonable image size if possible. That way I can photoshop the ZG Flares or any other flares over them, and display them for everyone. =) http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7SS/50-1461

woah! learning fast =) i'd like to be able to do that some day =( on comment i have. would it be possible to buy one of those piano BPM meters that tick back and forth, and set that up so that you can train yourself when to move forward and pull/dip/push?! hahah that would be so radical.

and make sure to shield signal wires!

yah that's what i was thinking. they'd have to be set up on a lathe or a drill press to grind away at the interior of the tube to make it smaller before making new threads. =/ ok i'll look into it. =) Thanks! EDIT: here's a link to the post you mentioned, incase anyone ever searches for this topic rather than the other one http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860

so it's a popular mod. everyone does it on toyotas and other cars and bla bla bla. u know, the one where you mount the coilover sleeve over the shock tube after welding in a perch. so here's my question. Wouldn't it be better (structurally) and easier to have the shock tube tapped at the top where the threaded section that people usually cut/reweld is? like instead of cutting off a huge 5inch section, why not clean up the sides like you would normally do after cutting off the stock spring perch, then cut the shock tube to proper height. THEN get someone to tap it with the same thread as the large nut that holds the strut in place? Would this not be a bit more safe? I know strong penetrating welds are quite sturdy, but isn't the added peace of mind worth the extra work? wait... im gonna take a guess... mounting them in a lathe to score out the inside of the tube, and taping it so that it accepts the holding nut is impossible because of the lower mounting section that is oddly shaped? i would hate to be right at this point in time.