Careless

hey man, nice body work. but i have a weird request. can you take a nice picture of that seat for me (im serious). it looks like a seat i used to have as a child, and it was my favourite one =( 20 years later, I miss my little mushroom chair send it to me via pm or something. I'd love to rekindle the memories

so does that mean you were born with GOOD or BAD wiring ability.

thats awesome man! nice to see the progress and what's involved. and your little diagrams are cute!

that would be a blow-through system, wouldn't it?

i hated wiring, until i fixed a turbo timer and someone said "woah, now im coming to you for ALL my wiring" then he started getting friends to come to me, and by the time i knew it, i was semi-adept at doing most of the wiring i come across. now im building a megasquirt harness. it takes time, and a lot of reading. what part did you screw up!? dont be so hard on yourself man. there are some peopel that say "i suck at wiring" and all they have to do is connect positive and negative to the proper sides of a dang LED, and they still get scared. whats the worst that can happen. as long as you dont apply power to the circuit until you're sure it's working, and until you get someone to check it out, you should be ok. some people need to start believing in themselves a bit more! no one was born with wiring skills!

get some megasquirt on that thing!!! make it old-core hard-school! wicked swap i love it.

a friend of mine brought over two Suzuki Swift ECU's, and reportedly told me that Suzi wanted 1300 for a new one from factory. So he came to my house, i cracked it open. it turned out to be a 1/2 watt 100 ohm resistor or so that was chipped and exposed the ceramic leads inside. I promptly unsoldered it. and popped a new one in. wouldn't you know.... it worked! so basically. 1300 dollar ECU, or.... 20 cent resistor? hmmmm. he took me out for wings. im still waiting for the payback of 1280 dollar in repair fees . LOL j/k. there are multiple ways of checking circuits. If you find the schematics for each individual IC (chip = Integrated Circuit) that you can find on the board, you can most often check what the voltage/resistance/current at each pin is supposed to be, and sometimes they come with a cross examination diagram that tells you what reading you should yield if you were to test each input/output by using a digital multimeter across two pins (dont use analog, theyre gonna drive you crazy). I recently repaired a megasquirt with a dead processor. the processor was replaced, but then the computer couldnt see the device when i hooked it up. so i checked the trouble shooting guide and it told me that the RS232 (serial connection circuit chip) was supposed to show 5 volts across two pins. upon inspection, it was about 0.01 volts. $3.50 later, the board was up and running again =) i hope that sorta makes you feel a bit better about your broken ECU. often times they can be repaired instead of replaced.

damn you guys and your milling and cnc'ing. it's just not fair.

are you one of those people that think an RB26 can handle 1000 hp daily, out of the box? that's what it's sounding like, only after your first post

today, a friend of mine informed me that the S14 non-hicas subframe is the same as the S13 non-hicas. but the hicas versions from either generation are NOT the same. so which one was used here?

bad ground wire? non shielded cable? place to start, i guess.

Question... would an R32 subframe/diff/knuckles/suspension be worth the 250 im paying for it, and will it work in a particular install like this?

here here!

as far as i know, there is no way to reverse etching, unless you take a layer off the glass. but i have no idea as to how someone would go about doing that.

any more pics of the entire underbelly

can you please post more pics of that underbelly of the car in this pic that you've shown here? it looks as though the frame rail is a u channel with 90 degree angle end-plate strips that are held on both the body and the u channel with rivets. that looks cool, but i just wanna see the rest of it if possible

gotta pay to play when you want to keep weight/size down and efficiency up. why not splurge on a good turbo? COME ON!!! you know you wanna

I just realized i got the water pump and oil pump mixed up. It's the N1 water pump that has 6 blades instead of 8 from the stock pump. sorry for the miscommunication.

Jolane, to remove all doubt as to whether that 2 inches of strut travel is important, I'm going to illustrate it in photoshop. EDIT: I think this is what happens, and I hope i don't confuse anyone anymore than they already are. And if this diagram is incorrect, let me know and I'll remove it to make sure it's out of everyone's sight. Now, even though the measurements aren't true to real-life casings, I hope that you realize that the lost travel on the strut rod is far greater than what is shown in this example. You will "top out" faster, instead of bottoming out, and you cannot use the full extension of the strut now... does that make sense or am I just off on a whim on this boring morning?

it is a film. it's much like the copper traces you find in printed circuit boards. it's really so thin that it's basically a copper trace on an etched portion of a window.

nice... at first, i began to worry about the strength of certain rotissieries that i've seen, but then i witnessed mull in his videos lifting and walking his bare shell over to the work area with 2 or 3 people, and i was convinced that the Z's lightweight metal and compact unibody would allow for even a couple of chairs with rotating assemblies welded to them to work just fine. we rock.

how dare you

hehe. it's the DING KING!